Crevasse rescue- the good, bad, and the ugly!

The Good:
Learning crevasse rescue techniques is a critical skill on our mountaineering courses. We like for these skills to be hands on and often groups go to the lip of a real crevasse and practice hauling gear and each other out. The process is very controlled and fun.

We love this explanation by Dave Weber at 11,000 feet on Denali on mechanical advantage:

Rope Pulley System 1:1 --> 9:1 from Menno Boermans on Vimeo.

The Bad and the Ugly:
Sharpen your ice axes and check out this sketchy crevasse rescue video! You won't find this teaching technique used many places...

Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        4 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       FULL
May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       5 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

AMS is Proud to Work With Combat Wounded Veterans

"No matter what situation you find yourself in, whether injured or able bodied, know that your only limitations are those you impose upon yourself and that as a team and family we can overcome any obstacle. Never Give up!!"

-James "Will" Wilson

AMS/CWVC expedition, Ruth glacier 2013

It is an honor to help them reach their goals.

2014 Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       6 spaces available
May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       5 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

15-Day Mountaineering Course

Join us on our 15-day mountaineering course

AMS Instructor Melis Coady rappels out of Little Switzerland with student Joseph Bell.

Last year was our first year offering this course where students climbed for 12-days in Little Switzerland on the Pika glacier and then spent 3-days hiking out to the road. Students did a series of 5 rappels with large packs to the granite glacier where they began their 3-day 30-mile cross country trek through the foothills of the Alaska Range with amazing vistas and wildlife viewing opportunities.

Ascending Wildhorse basin from the Granite glacier. Granite spires of Little Switzerland in the background.

Dates: July 8 - 22, 2014

Cost: $3,300

Apply Here

Students navigate out of this trail-less area with map and compass.

Breathe In the Light

In June of 2012, during the week of the Summer Solstice, filmmakers Bloom and McKinney invited four survivors of sexual assault on an uncommon journey. Led by two Alaska Mountaineering School guides and a certified wilderness therapist, the women trekked in the Alaska Range exploring both internal and external terrain.  During the arc of a week’s hike, four women--strangers united by their shared experiences of trauma--learn safety, judgment, leadership, teamwork, and how to navigate their own personal layers of landscape.

Hunter 2014

There may be a team forming for an attempt on Mt. Hunters incredibly aesthetic west ridge. We are looking for a few more strong climbers to round out the team. Call AMS for more info.

2014 Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       6, spaces available

May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       2 spaces available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       6 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

Hunter, West Ridge, 14 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 1-14, This expedition may be taking form based on high interest of a number of strong climbers and AMS graduates- call if interested.

End of Season Sale!

The AMS Mountain Shop End of Season Sale is Saturday, November 9 from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM. The sale features used outdoor equipment, snowshoes, sleeping bags, ropes and 40% off retail items. Colby would love to see you on Saturday!  The shop is located on F Street, East Talkeetna.

Let it snow!

A change in the jet stream has made for an unusually warm and wet fall here in Alaska. The latest result has been a large landslide in Denali National Park.

Below is a aerial photo of the Denali park road at approximately Mile 37. This site is west of Tattler Creek, on the section of road going up to Sable Pass.

 

The slide, which consists of an estimated 30,000 yards of rock and soil, covers approximately 200 feet of the road in depths of up to 35 feet. The material was released from a point 500 feet above the road, and flowed south below the road. No one was hurt and crews are working to remove the debris.

Still, all this rain down low has been snow on Denali! The peak revealed itself today and looks cozily covered in tons of snow. That bodes well for good glacier travel conditions next summer. Later in the winter it can be too cold and windy to get much snow accumulation on the glaciers.

Hope you all are having a good start to winter.