12 Day Mountaineering Course 8/16, Bomba

The AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course let by Instructors Chelsea Bomba and Sammie Ellsworth are learning an important rule, have a plan B.  Weather prevented this team from flying into the Alaska Range.  They departed for the Scandinavian Peaks today.  We look forward to hearing from the instructors about their adventure.

Instructor Chelsea teaching fixed line ascension

 Instructor Sammie encourages students on fixed lines

Instructor Chelsea explains how to read weather maps 

Ryan, Iain, Stephanie, Deb,
Instructors Sammie Ellsworth, Chelsea Bomba

Student climbing at Scandinavian Peaks

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba RETURNS!

AMS guide Chelsea Bomba teaching classes on the glacier.

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea, Josh, and Sammie have returned as a team of friends and in good spirits. The group got a lot of skills in, some rock climbing, some ice climbing, and even a few weather days to even everything out. For some, the climbing bug has bit and they are ready to pursue bigger climbs. Fun crew! 

Enjoy the updated photos from this trip taken by Josh Hoeschen: 

AMS students climbing Arapilles

AMS students enjoy nice flat rock summit atop Arapilles 

AMS students on the descent from climbing Arapilles 

AMS student Chris getting creative with ice climbing in a crevasse 

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS collection of camp in the Pika 

AMS guides Chelsea and Josh have reported everyone is having fun, albeit the weather is a bit wet right now. They spent the day practicing crevasse rescue, an important skill when traveling on a glacier. The weather is a chance to eat some good food, review skills and good practice in self-care that will be important for any future mountaineering trip in store for these students. 

AMS photo of practicing crevasse rescue, ascending the rope 

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS Instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth reported on 6/22 at 9:47 pm that the team is doing well and are all eager  to learn lots.

The team flew to the Pika Glacier in the Little Switzerland area.  Located 35 miles south of Denali, this area is perfect for learning climbing skills. It is warm and sunny out there right now. The group has moved camp down glacier and is hoping to get some rock climbing in soon.

Pika Glacier photo by Nick D'Alessio

Camp photo by Simon Frez-Albrecht

Belay station photo by Chelsa Bomba

                                     

12 Day Moutaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

Group photo at the Air Taxi before departing to the glacier 

AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth and team have been vey busy today.  The students met the instructors here at 8:00 AM and have been preparing to fly to the Eldridge Glacier.

As the day progressed the students learned that climbing is a hurry up and wait game. Weather prevented them from departing yesterday.  The team departed for the Pika Glacier this morning!

 Lunch packing 

Instructor Chelsea checks gear

Instructor Josh teaching 

Fixed line ascension

The team enjoying the class

AMS Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren Returns!

AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps, Dylan Miller and team just returned to Talkeetna! They are happy to be back to the green grass, flowers and warm temperatures.  They are looking forward to showers and comfortable beds.  The fresh fruit was a welcome treat.

First order of business boots off!

Unload gear

Snacks

Update Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren

The AMS 6/25 Denali West Buttress team has arrived at 14K Camp.  The conditions were not suitable for to reach the summit.  Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and team descended to 14 camp last night. They are all doing well and are resting to continue their travels.  We expect the team to return to Talkeetna in the next few days.

Team descending photo by Dustin English

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are doing well, the current conditions are not suitable to head up any further. The team is making plans to descend, but in the meantime are eating well and maintaining camp.  They are getting a true wilderness experience and are all doing well. 

AMS photo of highcamp on Denali in the land of the midnight sun

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are hanging tight at high camp, using those weather days that are built into the schedule to wait for a chance to go up. There are many conditions the guides have to consider for going up such as wind, avalanche, etc. Everyone is keeping warm, hydrated, well fed and staying busy shoveling the fresh snow out of their tent area.

AMS photo by Dustin English of a team traveling up to 17camp by Washburn's Thumb

AMS photo by Dustin English 17,200 ft camp 

AMS guide Adam with a "snow-cicle" beard. The temps are a bit warmer right now, but they are snowy.

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud: RETURNS!

The crew unpacking and drying gear at AMS headquarters 

AMS students learning different snow anchors: this is mid-process of "work-hardening" the snow to create a snow bollard.

AMS students rock climbing in the Pika, Alaska Range 

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud

returned last night after having a great time in the Pika Glacier, an offshoot of the Kahiltna Glacier. 

They were able to get some rock climbing in, move camp down glacier, practice crevasse rescue, roped travel, and learned a variety of snow anchors, etc. Everyone had a great time!

AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika under the midnight sun, photo by Alex Stroud

Moonrise over the Pika glacier, photo by Alex Stroud

Lead guide Alex, photo taken by Sam Tyler

Roped travel in the Pika, photo by Sam Tyler