12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS Instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth reported on 6/22 at 9:47 pm that the team is doing well and are all eager  to learn lots.

The team flew to the Pika Glacier in the Little Switzerland area.  Located 35 miles south of Denali, this area is perfect for learning climbing skills. It is warm and sunny out there right now. The group has moved camp down glacier and is hoping to get some rock climbing in soon.

Pika Glacier photo by Nick D'Alessio

Camp photo by Simon Frez-Albrecht

Belay station photo by Chelsa Bomba

                                     

12 Day Moutaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth and team have been vey busy today.  The students met the instructors here at 8:00 AM and have been preparing to fly to the Eldridge Glacier.

As the day progressed the students learned that climbing is a hurry up and wait game. Weather prevented them from departing yesterday.  The team departed for the Pika Glacier this morning!

 Lunch packing 

Instructor Chelsea checks gear

Instructor Josh teaching 

Fixed line ascension

The team enjoying the class

AMS Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren Returns!

AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps, Dylan Miller and team just returned to Talkeetna! They are happy to be back to the green grass, flowers and warm temperatures.  They are looking forward to showers and comfortable beds.  The fresh fruit was a welcome treat.

First order of business boots off!

Unload gear

Snacks

Update Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren

The AMS 6/25 Denali West Buttress team has arrived at 14K Camp.  The conditions were not suitable for to reach the summit.  Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and team descended to 14 camp last night. They are all doing well and are resting to continue their travels.  We expect the team to return to Talkeetna in the next few days.

Team descending photo by Dustin English

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are doing well, the current conditions are not suitable to head up any further. The team is making plans to descend, but in the meantime are eating well and maintaining camp.  They are getting a true wilderness experience and are all doing well. 

AMS photo of highcamp on Denali in the land of the midnight sun

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are hanging tight at high camp, using those weather days that are built into the schedule to wait for a chance to go up. There are many conditions the guides have to consider for going up such as wind, avalanche, etc. Everyone is keeping warm, hydrated, well fed and staying busy shoveling the fresh snow out of their tent area.

AMS photo by Dustin English of a team traveling up to 17camp by Washburn's Thumb

AMS photo by Dustin English 17,200 ft camp 

AMS guide Adam with a "snow-cicle" beard. The temps are a bit warmer right now, but they are snowy.

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud: RETURNS!

The crew unpacking and drying gear at AMS headquarters 

AMS students learning different snow anchors: this is mid-process of "work-hardening" the snow to create a snow bollard.

AMS students rock climbing in the Pika, Alaska Range 

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud

returned last night after having a great time in the Pika Glacier, an offshoot of the Kahiltna Glacier. 

They were able to get some rock climbing in, move camp down glacier, practice crevasse rescue, roped travel, and learned a variety of snow anchors, etc. Everyone had a great time!

AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika under the midnight sun, photo by Alex Stroud

Moonrise over the Pika glacier, photo by Alex Stroud

Lead guide Alex, photo taken by Sam Tyler

Roped travel in the Pika, photo by Sam Tyler

Mountain Update- Curtis Green with Team Hiro returns!

AMS team photo once everyone returned this afternoon

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 7800 camp and waited last night until 2 am for the correct traveling conditions (cool and firm packed snow) on the lower glacier. They have arrived to the upper airstrip today and just now have all returned to AMS headquarters excited to be back and heading for the showers. Everyone is excited they reached the top and had good team dynamics.

FAA weather cam for Kahiltna Bascamp this morning

Recent view of the lower airstrip(used early season) and path to the upper airstrip where planes are currently picking people up. Mt. Foraker in the background. Photo by A. Erickson

View of the green foothills of the Alaska Range on the return flight after seeing only snow for 3 weeks. Photo by A.Erickson

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller reached highcamp 17,200.  The team is doing well, they are settling in.  They are the only group in camp.

High Camp photo by Mike Janes

Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 11K last night.  They plan to travel to the airstrip tonight, the will be there for an early pickup.  We look forward to seeing them tomorrow weather permitting!

Descending photo by Dustin English

AMS Team Updates

Denali West Buttress 6/18, "Team Hiro" led by AMS Guides Curtis Green, Dave Wade, Chris Miller summited at 8:00 PM yesterday.  The team is well and happy, it was a long day. Congratulations to them!

Summit Ridge photo by Adam Fabrikant

Denali West Buttress 6/18,  AMS guides Josh Hoeschen, Chelsea Bomba and team returned to Talkeetna last night.  After a good nights rest they are busy unpacking and sorting gear.   They are happy to be in Talkeetna!

Laying gear out

Doing paperwork and sorting gear

Guides Josh & Chelsea

Denali West Buttress 6/25, led by AMS guides Larry Holmgren and Jeremiah Phelps carried to the ridge today.  They plan to move to high camp tomorrow if the weather looks good.  The team is doing well.

16 Ridge photo by Josh Hoeschen