Monday, May 2, 2016

First Denali send off! 5/2 Hoeschen/Kentucky Derby

AMS guides Josh Hoeschen and Jeremiah Phelps have an awesome crew of National Guard pararescue that have come to AK from Kentucky who have spent yesterday and today packing, practicing crevasse rescue, and eating a lot of food at AMS headquarters! They are a fun crew and departed this afternoon for Kahiltna Basecamp to be one of the first few groups on the west buttress. Reports say that the glacier is in great condition! We wish this team nicknamed "Kentucky Derby" well.

AMS Kentucky Derby team gearing up at headquarters

AMS refresher of crevasse rescue skills before putting feet on the snow

AMS group photo before departure:  Ryan Darnell, AMS guide Jeremiah Phelps, Zach Paul, John, Josh Welch, AMS guide Josh Hoeschen Andrew Zena and Mike Lober

Loading up onto the glacier plane at Talkeetna Air Taxi

Mountaineering Course, lead by Larry Holmgren and Custom Technical Climb, Tumolo

AMS instructor Larry and crew are still doing well. They are at camp at about 5,000' on the Kahiltna Glacier and were either heading up "Johnny Peak"  about 8,000' or traveling 12 miles to the confluence of the Kahiltna and Pika glaciers. Some wind this morning, but everyone is doing really well and enjoying themselves!
AMS previous photo of mountaineering course camping on the Pika Glacier

AMS instructor Todd Tumolo and climber Erin Mai RETURN safely and happy from accomplishing two summits: Moose's tooth Ham and Eggs on the Root Canal glacier and also Bacon and Eggs on the Kahiltna. "Breakfast tour" according to T.T. Congrats and welcome back to the world of green, showers, and burgers! 
AMS photo archives, aerial of Moose'sTooth and Denali 

AMS headquarters unpacking

AMS guide Todd Tumolo and climber Erin Mai fresh off the glacier and stoked! 

Sunday, May 1, 2016

Mountaineering Course - April 24, 2016: 12 day lead by Larry Holmgren

AMS guide Larry Holmgren sent a quick text from the field with a great report on the group. They are moving efficiently on the Kahiltna Glacier, the students are taking turns leading the group through crevassed terrain. They have made it past the great ice fall and Thunder mountain, heading towards the Pika Glacier. Everyone is in good spirits and enjoying the movement.

AMS photo of Mt. Frances and Mt. Hunter, two of many big mountains the group will have passed on the Kahiltna glacier. 

Topo map of the route taken from Basecamp to just South of Thunder mountain

Saturday, April 30, 2016

AMS Custom Technical Climb, Tumolo

AMS Guide Todd Tumolo checked in from camp.  He and Erin had just returned from climbing Bacon n Eggs on Mt. Hunter.  Earlier this week they summited Ham 'n Eggs.  Todd pointed out that they climbed the "breakfast menu".  Todd and Erin are doing well and are happy with their climbs.

Todd reported that it is windy and snow.  They plan to have dinner and get some rest.  They have a few more days of climbing.  We're looking forward to hearing what they do tomorrow.

Previous team coming down.

AMS Exclusive Offers for 2016

Exciting news, we have two exclusive offers for Denali this spring!

Small Group Denali West Buttress Expedition, June 8-29, 2016: $9,800.00 
A special opportunity to climb Denali with a small well supported team: maximum group size of 4 climbers with 2 guides: ONLY TWO SPACES ARE AVAILABLE

Denali West Buttress Expedition led by Mike Hamill, June 15 - July 6, 2016: $7900.00
Mike is a long time veteran guide and the author of Climbing the Seven Summits. Due to a cancellation, there is a rare opportunity to join Mike on Denali. ONLY ONE SPACE IS AVAILABLE

Please contact us right away, we expect these offers to fill up quickly.

More details can be found on our website: 

Please contact us at the AMS HQ in Talkeetna, AK via email: or call 1-907-733-1016

Friday, April 29, 2016

AMS Team Updates!

AMS guide Pat Ormond and climber Marc have returned to the HQ in Talkeetna!  They successfully climbed Moose's Tooth and then bumped over to SE Fork of the Kahlitna Glacier to explore other options.  They had a great time in the range. Welcome back!

Guide Pat Ormond and Marc, this evening.
AMS Guide Todd Tumolo and Erin are enjoying their time.  Tomorrow they plan to climb Bacon n Eggs on Mount Hunter.  We look forward to hearing form them tomorrow with details of the climb.

Bacon n Eggs climber from previous AMS climb.

AMS Instructor Larry Holmgren leading the 12 Day Mountaineering Course checked in to let us know they are doing well and have completed their technical skill courses.  Tomorrow they plan to move camp and put the new mountaineering skills to work towards peak ascents.

Team Traveling on Glacier

Great News!

AMS is proud to announce that NPS has awarded us one of  6  mountaineering concession contracts authorizing guided mountaineering expeditions within the Denali National Park and Preserve.  The selection process is very competitive.  Our concession contract extends until 2026.
We look forward to climbing with you through 2026 and beyond.
We still have a few spaces left on our upcoming expeditions!  Come join us for  a great experience!

May 11 - June 1        2 SPOTS REMAINING
May 18 - June 8       FULL
May 22 - June 12     1 SPOT REMAINING
May 25 - June 16      FULL
June 1 - June 22       FULL
June 5 - June 26      1 SPOT REMAINING
June 8 - June 29      4 SPOTS REMAINING
June 12 - July 3        FULL
June 15 - July 6        1 SPOT REMAINING
June 25 - July 16      6 SPOTS REMAINING
June 27 - July 18      6 SPOTS REMAINING

Denali Full West Rib, 20,320

22 Days, $8700 with 4 climbers; 2 guides

June 2 - June 24    FULL

NEW! Private expeditions are available, to arrange this trip of a lifetime please  
contact AMS office via 

16,000' Ridge photo by AMS Guide, Josh Hoeschen

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Mountaineering Course - April 24, 2016: 12 day lead by Larry Holmgren

AMS Lead Instructor Larry Holmgren contacted the AMS HQ via the satellite phone, they report all is well:


Crevasse Rescue from previous course

AMS Custom Technical Climb Tumolo and Ormond

They're on top now! 

AMS guide Todd Tumolo with climber Erin at the top of the Moose's Tooth via the Ham 'n Eggs route - it is in good shape this spring. And yes, mobile phone are working from the summit, so these photos are real time. 

Alaska Mountaineering School's second Moose's Tooth ascent of 2016. Thanks to our awesome guide staff! Thanks photos by: AMS guide, Todd Tumolo 

AMS guide Pat Ormond and Marc successfully completed their climb of Moose's Tooth on April 24th.; and yesterday took a flight over to the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to look at and attempt some additional climbs.  We look forward to hearing climber Marc Couper and Guide, Pat Ormond's stories and photos.  We expect to see them back at the AMS HQ tomorrow afternoon.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

AMS Custom Technical Climb- Tumolo

AMS lead guide Todd Tumolo flew today to the Root Canal in the Ruth Glacier with climber Erin Mai from Anchorage. They are psyched to get in on the action of Ham and Eggs route, which is in prime condition right now. Erin is using this climb as training for a future trip on the Full West Rib later this summer. We are happy to help her meet her awesome goals of climbing in the range.

At AMS headquarters practicing climbing systems while waiting for the glacier flight
AMS guide Todd Tumolo and climber Erin Mai ready to go climbing!

Photo by AMS guide Todd Tumolo on glacier flight in to Root Canal today
Aerial view of Moose's Tooth, Alaska Range, Denali National Park. Photo from AMS archives