Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Update from 14K, Kevin's team and Mark Postle's
Kevin Mahoney just called in with a weather and conditions update from 14K. Kevin reported light winds, but kind of stormy weather over all. It's not particularly bad weather I don't think, but it's not quite good enough to move up yet. Moving from 14 to 17 is a long hard day and the guides want to roll into 17 with decent weather. Folks are going to be really tired from the move up there so the guides want to make sure that the weather is good enough so that the tired people can set up camp. We call that having margins for error. We like large margins for error. That is why they might be sitting out the bad weather and waiting for good weather to move and private parties might be moving up. The guides have all learned it is better to wait it out than to move in marginal weather.
Kevin and David of the May 15th Upper West Rib expedition are both feeling great and are still psyched. They have made a couple of acclimatization hikes up to 16+ thousand feet on the upper rib. The winds have been predominantly out of the south east lately and they are reluctant to move up to the high camp on the Rib and have decided to switch gears a little and move their sites toward climbing the West Buttress. Kevin and David are planning on heading up to 17k (high camp) on the Buttress tomorrow, thursday, and weather permitting go for the summit the following day. They have spent 5 nights at 14 and are anxious to move up. Kevin said that they have decided that if they are unable to summit by Sunday they will start heading down.
Mark's crew is also still at 14k. They are hoping to move up tomorrow as well. According to their schedule this is will probably be their 7th night at 14. This means several things. one is that they will all me much more acclimatized when they do move up to highcamp. And when they do move up they will be able to move up a little lighter as they will have a little less food and fuel to haul up. They still have plenty of days left and are sitting in the perfect spot. As I have said before, the more days at 14 the merrier.