Tuesday, May 27, 2008

May 27th

Brian Okonek photo, depicting what Melis's crew was most likely doing last night.

Melis moved up the high camp yesterday. They made it up there at about 7:30 PM. It sounded like they had quite a bit of building and camp chores to do before they could settle in for the night. Usually, when a group rolls in to a new camp one of the guides will almost immediately start melting snow to fill water bottles and get a hot drink into everyone to start the rehydration process. One they turn the stoves on they often will remain on for 4-6 hours until all water bottles are full, multiple hot drinks have been consumed, soup and dinner has been served and the pots are full in preparation for the following morning's cooking and melting routine.

They didn't get to bed until after midnight last night. Melis said folks were a bit tired today. That is expected as the move to high camp is considered one of the hardest days of the trip. It was -20 F. this morning up there. Above them on the upper mountain it is windy. It didn't sound like a great summit day today. She said they are installed there for the next 5 days and are just waiting for a good summit day. It is customary to take a rest day after the move to 17K.

"Sorry I missed your Birthday Jaco". and Hugs and kisses to Kelly and Logan.

Mark Postle and Pat Ormond's team suited up to fly at the beginning of their trip.

Tork ran into Mark's team yesterday when they were heading down. Mark's team had gotten a bunch of wind and snow at 11K during the last storm. They were back carrying yesterday to retrieve their cache near Kahiltna Pass. Today looks like a pretty good day in the range so I am guessing that they are making the carry to 13.5K, which is up around Windy Corner. I suspect that once MArk and PAt arrive in 14K camp I will hear from them directly. Until then it is by word of mouth. No news is good news.

Greg Collin's (Gee Double) and Nick's upper rib expedition.

Greg and crew launched yesterday afternoon as planned into the South East Fork of the Kahiltna (base camp) to start their climb. The upper rib expedition follows the West Buttress all the way up to 14K and then follow a different route on the upper mountain. All of Greg's teammates received a day of crevasse rescue training and glacier travel practice the day before they flew into the range so they were ready to hit the trail soon after flying in to base camp. They are most likely at the base of Ski Hill today. They may be carrying to 11K today.

Tom's team unpacking and drying their kit.

Tork's crew got in yesterday and had their Asado last night down at the river with views of the Alaska range in the background. Tom cooked up a bunch of beef just like an Argentinian.

And last but not least Brian McCullough and Dan Corn's May 27th West buttress trip is getting briefed by NPS and scheduled to fly into the range to base camp this afternoon.

Remember, that no news is good news and I'll try to update the blog whenever possible. I don't like to speculate too much, so I generally wait until I hear reports form the guides before i add info to the blog.



Anonymous said...

Please say hello to Mark and Pat and wish them good luck from Hervé.USCAPOR is following your progress. And to PAT: I see there is old guys on your Team, so remember to be patient with the older guys.Cheers.

Kelly Mendez said...

To Johnny in Melis's team: Great job! We are excited for you here and love and miss you! I tried to call Jaco but couldn't get through- sent her an email though. Hugs and kisses to you! Love, Kelly and Logan

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