Sunday, May 25, 2008

Sunday, May 25th


14K camp from the bottom of the fixed lines.


Melis said he wind has slowed way down today. One of the NPS rangers said the winds were blowing about 10 mph this morning. The 16 ridge looked fairly windy still, so they took a walk up to the base of the fixed lines to get some exercise and acclimatization. Many of the guided groups that had been up there at 14K waiting to head up to high camp headed back down the mountain this morning as soon as the weather broke. These guys are hoping to move up to high camp in the next day or so, as soon as it's good enough weather to do so.

Team Tork left 14K this morning around 9:30 AM for base camp. Tom put an order in with me while I was in Anchorage yesterday for 10+ pounds of beef and some nice bottles of Argentinian wine for their end of expedition "asado". Planes have been getting in and out of the range today. They will most likely be out tomorrow if it's flyable.

Seth, Leighan and the Summit for Someone guys made it into the range this early afternoon. They were delayed by one day in Talkeetna due to un-flyable weather. They went in to the South East Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This is also the starting point for Denali, Hunter and Mt. Foraker. These types of trips never really know where they are going until they are just about ready to take off. They had maps for 3 or 4 different course locations. Sometimes they do not know where they are going until they are up in the air and the pilot says where he or she is able to land. Something as simple a thing as a fog bank in a valley or landing strip can make an area un-landable.


This is a photo of the South Face of Mt. Francis. One possible route, conditions dependent, is the left hand sky line, the SW Ridge. Another possible line of ascent is the right hand sky line, East Ridge. The SW ridge is more difficult and the east ridge is a fair bit easier. There are two guides out with the 3 SFS climbers so they can accommodate the different experience levels in this group.

During the day in town of bad weather, the SFS climbers, along with the guides took care of some necessary curriculum to travel safely on the glacier. They worked into the evening last night in the AMS climbing gym until Talkeetna Air Taxi called it for the night.

Tork made it to base camp tonight and should be flying out in the morning on the 26th.

rfg

13 comments:

Shep said...

To Torks group especially Bob & Barb, we've been cheering you on and so excited for all you've seen and done!! We've followed the blogs and looked up all sorts of stuff on the net and picturing you guys up there in the high high elevations. can't wait to hear more. Good climbing from the Vancouver Alexanders

Kelly Mendez said...

To Johnny with Melis's group: We hope you get good weather from now on! Logan and I are putting in the garden at home. We love you and think about you every day.

Kelly Mendez said...

To Johnny with Melis's group: We hope you get good weather from now on! Logan and I are putting in the garden at home. We love you and think about you every day.

Anya said...

Once again, good job Christian!! Ive been following you all along and so looking forward to hearing everything first hand.
Enjoy your party off the mountain.
Safe traveling the rest of your ways! Miss you bunches! I can't wait to welcome you home. See you soon!! xoxo

Chernishov's said...

Great job Christian!!
We are all very impressed.

From Lada:(Hurry back, but shower first). :)
From T Tania: Can't wait to see some amazing pitures. Need help scrapbooking?

We all miss you. See you soon.

Anya said...

WOOOOO HOOOOOOO!!
Just wanted to throw that in. I am so proud of you Christian. :)

Susan said...

Christian in Tork's Team....Welcome back to lower elevations!!!! Good job on your climb!! It's been a nail biter for almost three weeks!!! A true adventure!! I am looking forward to your return!!!! Enjoy the feast in Alaksa, but I have ribeye steaks and more home cooked food! I am proud of your climb...The Horist Family has been watching you hourly too!! From the mountain to the sea.....See you in a couple of days.... Love MOM

Anya said...

Are you guys back yet?

Kaylen said...

WHOOP WHOOP!!!!! GREAT JOB TORK!!! Christian...i am glad you accomplished this big "VACATION"! aahahhaha....anyways...eat a lot of 'real' meat today...and thanks for the postcard from the mountain...i did not know they had a gift shop at 16,000 feet!!!!! hahaha..jk...love you..see you at my graduation in Santa Barbara!! WHOOP WHOOP!
ciao ciao!
love you!

hillary said...

Alex, Reed and Jeff, (SFS climbers)

Sounds like a great adventure is under way! The SFS office folks are thinking about you and sending you thoughts of good weather!

https://www.blogger.com/comment.do said...

Just a vote of Good Luck for our buddy Brian Fry in the West Buttress approach. He has been training so hard and devoting most of his energy and his life to this climb. I hope the Denali gods are smiling on his and all the groups!

Remember, coming home safe and sound is NOT optional!

Eddie & Mike

Mike Nadeau said...

Just a vote of Good Luck for our buddy Brian Fry in the West Buttress approach. He has been training so hard and devoting most of his energy and his life to this climb. I hope the Denali gods are smiling on his and all the groups!

Remember, coming home safe and sound is NOT optional!

Eddie & Mike

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