Sunday, June 1, 2008

Update


Here's a photo taken from Kahiltna Dome looking at 11K camp. The big rocky buttress in the middle in the Direst West Buttress and the shaded face of the Direct West Buttress is called the Washburn Face, named by AMS guide and first ascensionist, Greg Collins, Phil Powers and Tom Walters in the early '90's. South District Ranger and Alaskan Pioneer Daryl Miller fed them all cheese burgers at 14K campo while he was on a NPS patrol. The top of this buttress, if followed will bring you out at the top of the fixed lines above 14K. If you look close enough you can see quite a few climbers traveling on the glacier toward the 11K camp. 11K camp min visible below Motorcycle Hill.

After Greg's first ascent of this wall he called Bradford Washburn on the phone and asked him if he minded if they named the wall in his honor. He said yes and now it is called the "Washburn Face".

Brian called in today from the satellite phone at 11K. His crew is doing well. They are taking a rest day today. Tomorrow will be a carry day to or around the corner and the following day will most likely be their move to 14K day.

Postle's crew has cached at the top of the fixed lines and will be looking for the next good day to move up to high camp.

Greg rolled in to 14K yesterday. I haven't talked to him yet, but Mark said they were there. They are doing their back carry from Windy Corner today.


AMS owner and guide, Colby Coombs

Colby flew in yesterday with assistant, Josh Hoeschen and Henrik for their Denali Trip. Henrik is from Denmark and he is trying to set the new 7 Summit speed record. For those of you who may not have heard about "7 summiters", they climb the highest peak on every continent. I'm not sure what the current record is but it's less than 6 months. As long as Colby and Henrik summit before June 21st, Henrik will have the new speed record. Henrik summitted Everest on May 25th in the morning and came directly to Alaska so he would be acclimatized and could do a speedier ascent of Denali than normal.

Colby, Josh and Henrik left base camp at 4:00 Am this morning and camped at the top of Ski Hill. They will move to 11K tonight and then on up to 14K the following day wx. dependent. They got 12 hours of sleep today and are feeling great. They are on a night schedule. They will slowly get back on to a day schedule as they get up into the colder climes of the mountain.


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