Saturday, June 28, 2008

Melis, Rob, and John at 17,200' Camp

High Camp,  looking up at a windy Denali Pass.

Melis just called in from high camp at 17,200'. She said that there is a break in the weather below, so Forest, Nevin, and Line are heading down the mountain, to stay on schedule.

Rob and John plan to stay with Melis at high camp "until they summit". They are on the "lose a few more pounds program", they will most likely go beyond their scheduled fly out date of June 30.

She said sprits are high with everyone and they are sad to see Nevin, Line and Forest go, but Line and Nevin decided to go down, the mountain isn't going anywhere. They made a bigger effort than most!

They have been keeping busy up there! They all have been working hard shoveling the snow away from their camp, they built an igloo for cooking in and have been maintaining it. Melis has been providing medical attention to other climbers as well. Someone from a private expedition, who had kept going toward the summit on they day Melis's group turned back, returned to high camp with frost bite on their face, hands, and feet! YIKES! It was lucky for them that Melis was there - she is an EMT and teaches Wilderness First Responder courses world wide. Melis also teaches AMS' Medical Protocols Review/Wilderness First Responder course for all of our staff here at AMS together with Dr. Peter Hacket and Lance Taysom WEMT-B, RN. During the review, we spend a lot of extra time on the treatment and prevention of cold injuries and altitude illnesses. See AMS/MPR/WFR for this years course description.

They have broken the "longest amount of time at high camp record" here at AMS. The old AMS record was 9 days (Caitlin and Colby), today is day 10 for them and tomorrow will be day 11. Sorry Colby and Caitlin, There's a new sheriff in town and her name rhymes with melis.

Pat Ormond said that as soon as the weather looks good they are going to move up to high camp and hopefully not contend for beating Melis's high camp stay record.

Let's hope the weather gets calm and clear for them soon, so they can have one of those polypro summit days!



Mikkel said...

Well done to all in Melis' group. Staing in High Camp for this long is a great effort by all.

Reading about ppl getting frost bites makes me happy that the guides makes the wise decision not to go for the summit when the weather conditions aren't suitable.

Time and weather are conditions out of your hands. Line - well done. Can't wait to see you again.

peder said...

Opholdsrekord i High Camp! Ti dage i 5.250 meters højde! Det er da væsentligt vildere end hvis i havde haft godt vejr og toppede den første dag og så nedad igen! Rart at du ikke kommer tilbage med frostbid! Du er for sej, søs!!

Donna said...

Rob, Congratulations on breaking the record for days at high Camp. Guess now you'll really be able to kick @%#$ at Vineman next month! Were cheering you and your amazing team on...summit or not, you've reached an amazing pinnacle! Love, Sandy and Donna

Anonymous said...

John is the most determined person I know! If the weather doesn't clear he'll keep you up there 'til next season!
Hang tough and be safe guys, we're all thinking about you.
Leon and rest of Johns climbing friends from Florida!