Saturday, June 14, 2008

Saturday the 14th, updated

A windy day at Denali Pass and above.

It is a hard decision for guides to turn around on any given day in the mountains. Every guide likes to have a certain margin for safety when traveling in potentially hazardous terrain. Some groups/guides have different levels of comfort. All of our guides have lots of experience in the mountains of Alaska. Every one of our guides is a wealth of knowledge and experience. They all want to go to the top when safety margins allow. Not all groups are the same, so while one group might make it to the top it is common that another doesn't.

Scott, Brian and Johnny
made the summit last night at 9:30 PM. 11 1/2 hours round trip. Scott said it was a tough decision to go up yesterday. The weather was fairly questionable. They were going to head down this morning. Mike Janes and Leighan were going to make the move to high camp today. They were able to arrange a tent swap with Scott Woolums.

Kirby and Nate turned around at Denali Pass yesterday and are planning on going for it again as soon as they get a window that Kirby and Nate feel good about.

The weather and the summit day worked out well for Scott and his crew. When a group gets quite high on a summit attempt and they have to turn around, they are usually too tired to give it another go. Kirby and his crew still have time for another go.

Mike and Leighan are at 17! They rolled in just a bit ago. They had camp just about finished up when I talked to him. Scott left them a tent and stoves and a couple full pots of water. That's how it should be. Nice job Scott. They didn't leave 14 until late, as the winds were honking on the ridge this morning. They are planning on taking a rest day tomorrow and then start looking for a summit window.

Melis is at 11. They are going to carry to 13.5 (around Windy Corner) tomorrow and then probably try to make the move up to 14 the following day.

Joey is still at 14. He tried to make it up to the Rib today, but was turned around due to wind and is back in camp now.

Brian Okonek photo of someone looking up at the North Buttress of Hunter. The folks that climbed Control Tower this morning got an even better and more up close view of the N. Buttress.

The Kahiltna Dome crew is back. They climbed Control Tower this morning. It was an excellent culmination to their trip. They left base camp at 12:15 AM this morning and were on the summit 5 1/2 hours later. Tim said "it was a stellar morning, alpenglow on Hunter and Foraker." From Control Tower peak, one gets an AWESOME view of the North Buttress of Mount Hunter.

Colby Coombs leading the Crux pitch of the Cassin, Photo, Mike Wood

AMS guide Jeff Witt just topped out on the Cassin Ridge this morning. The Cassin is one of the more difficult routes on Denali that gets done semi regularly. Some seasons it doesn't see any successful ascents, lots of attempts though.

That's all I've heard lately.



A World in a PAN said...

But where on Denali is our friend Chip?

Anonymous said...

Tom (Mike Janes Team):

Happy Father's Day!! Only five days left of school. I cannot wait to see you.
Love, Samantha

Great job! We are excited for you. I like the way you are climbing. Happy Father's Day! I made a book mark for you. It is my foot print.
Love, Sydney

Anonymous said...

MOISES(KIRBY Equipe): HAPPY first day of the Father! Nava from Sofia. Mom and I love YOU!