Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Tuesday Evening

I just heard from Mike Janes and Leighan and the are at 14K. They got up there in about 7 hours. He said they have been getting super lucky with the weather. They haven't had to take a weather day yet. There was a bit of a bottle neck this afternoon heading around Windy Corner so they got held up before the Corner for a bit so they wouldn't get stuck passing or getting passed while actually heading around the Corner. They ahd a good move though and everyone is strong. Mike also said that he wanted to start planning for another Asado down on the Susitna River like he did after his last trip. Everyone is getting along so well he said it was amazing. They're planning on back carrying tomorrow and then either carrying to the ridge or resting. They have yet to take a rest day and even if they took an extra rest day at 14 they will still be right on schedule.

Here's some video footage of some good views that these guys see from in, around and above 14 camp.

is down at 14K. He was getting ready to make up a bunch of food for the crew. It is really nice at 14 right now but he said it was not a summit day today. Kirby, Jon and Moises are in a holding pattern as they say up at High Camp. Hopefully they brought some good books. This is only their second night at High Camp, so they are sitting pretty. It's not a summit day but it's not a major storm either. I bet they are doing a bunch of socializing up there, so don't feel too sorry for them yet.

Brian said the highlight of their day was the Raven that was circling over their heads as they descended the 16 Ridge. They are on their way down but I didn't get the exact details of the descent. They will most likely be timing their travels so that they arrive on the lower glacier after the coldest part of the night has set in. So they'll either leave tonight from 14 and go through the night to base camp. This is called the "death march". It's actually not that bad, but as they are not in a hurry and the weather doesn't look as good below so I bet they break the descent up into a couple of days and give Dan and Chris C. some more time behind the stoves cooking and melting snow. An expedition of this size (9 climbers) burns between 9-10 gallons of white gas. That's about 950 liters worth of drinking water alone that gets melted and about that much for soups, meals and hot drinks. I bet the stoves are on for well over 150 hours over the course of a Denali expedition. That's a lot of work and a lot of waiting around and prior planning just to get a drink of water or a bowl of soup.

Scott Woolums is at 14 and planning on moving up to High Camp in the morning. If they get a good window they are planning on getting to H.C. and going for the summit the following day sans rest.

Phil Erschler and his gang have also rolled into 14. Mike just gave me that beta. That's all I know about Phil's crew right now. This is Phil's 31st trip up on Denali I thgnk he said and if he summits it'll be his 25th summit. So I bet they have things under control.



Sheila said...

Paul LaPierre (Mike Janes Team)

Way to go. Keep up the good work. We look forward each day to the updates on your progress. Hope the weather stays on your side! Climb high! Miss you.

Sheila (aka Da Pod)

Anonymous said...

Tom Pelland (Mike Janes Team)

Husband: We are so excited for you. The girls check the blog every day and love reading about you and the other climbers progress. They always ask to look at the photo in front of the plane.

Love you and miss you lots!
Natalie, Samantha, Sydney, and Jordan

Mike LaPierre said...

Paul and Tom (Mike Janes team)

Good work. Stay strong and focused. With you all the way.


Anonymous said...

Tom Pelland (Mike Janes Team)


Jordan crawled up the step by the fish tank today. She is showing early signs of strong hiking capabilities, just like you.

"Please be careful." (from Sydney... well, all of us)

"I only have nine days left of kindergarten." (from Samantha)

The Pelland Girls

Kathy FitzGerald said...

Paul LaPierre (Mike Janes team)– Good luck, Captain. Don’t let anyone put rocks in your pack on your way to this summit. Your camping pals in LA send their best.

barbara said...

Paul, we wake up with thoughts of you in the am and you are the last person we check in on in the pm. Lots of LOVE and HAPPINESS, Babs

Jim said...


One step at a time man..... one step at a time... Jim Krodel

Shirley/Dale said...

Paul -- the Schenectady annex is cheering you on, too!