Thursday, April 30, 2009

Melis called in today from the top of Ski Hill. They were going to put their cache in somewhere up in the 10,000' basin. She said that is has been warm so far and that everyone is doing well.

They are on a night/really early in the morning travel schedule. They do this to avoid the hottest times of the day. If there is not much wind and the sun is out in full force they could even be traveling in capalene and "T-shirts". I regret to say that I don't think they will continue to have these sweltering temps. It is just going to get colder and colder as they go up in elevation. Historically though, some seasons are milder than others. I'm optimistic that it won't be too bad.

Melis's crew is planning on moving to 11K camp tomorrow then back carrying to get their cache and potentially taking a rest day the next day. Melis likes the phone, so we'll have lots of updates from her expedition.

Camp at the base of ski hill.

More soon.

Lots of climbs, expeditions and courses start packing gear tomorrow.


Tuesday, April 28, 2009

April 28th.

The weather has been shut down for a few days around here, so there has not been much activity to report. Tim and Erdal snuck into the Pika glacier two days ago in a little opening in the clouds.

Nate Opp and Sean Russell finally made it in to base camp this morning after 3 days of waiting in Talkeetna for the weather to get good enough to fly. They took off in a plane once yesterday but were turned around soon after takeoff when they received a conditions report from the mountains that there was low lying fog and clouds prohibiting landing on the glacier.

AMS guide Tim Brown demonstrating fixed line ascension before flying onto the glacier. We particularly like the fact that he's wearing a helmet for the demo (and flip flops).

Erdal Ceten, moments before heading into the Pika Glacier with Tim for a week of touring, climbing and relaxing in the mountains.

Several of the 4/28 (Melis's and Greg's) Denali expedition wrapping up their Denali Skills Review class yesterday.

Melis and her fearless crew eating their last hot lunch for a few weeks. They are partway through a really busy day. They have all been thoroughly gear checked, packed their lunch food and are just about to go get their NPS briefing. They are scheduled to fly out today at 5:00 PM. The weather is perfect today so we expect an on-time departure.

Lots more updates and photos to come.


Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Our first 12 day Mountaineering course of the season just went in to the Range.

Our season is officially under way. We have already completed several trips, film crews, workshops and medical courses this season, but now we will be launching course and expedition after course and expedition for the several months. We have pretty much dug ourselves out from the long winter. There is still a few feet of snow in Talkeetna.

Instructors, Allie Barker and Dan Corn flew into Kahiltna Base camp yesterday afternoon to start the April 20th 12 day Mountaineering Course. They flew into the same base camp that all of the Denali, Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter climbers use. They will spend about 3 days around B.C. learning the necessary skills to traverse from the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna (B.C.) to the Pika Glacier, known by climbers as "little switzerland", a distance of approximately 20 miles. This is an awesome route. The views are insane and there is climbing to do along the way appropriate for the experience level of this group.

(Dan Corn)

The crew, getting ready at Talkeetna Air Taxi for the flight into the mountains.

We have also just started our in-house guides and Medical Protocols review. This is an intense 3 day review of all of our Backcountry Medical Direction Protocols and Medication Standing Orders. Dr. Peter Hackett is AMS' Medical Director. Peter, along with Lance Taysom, WEMT-B, RN and senior WMI instructor wrote our medical directions. Lance and AMS guide and WMI instructor Melis Coady are running the Medical Protocls Review over these next few days. Photos to come.

Stay tuned for lots more climbs and expeditions heading out in the next week.


Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Wedding Bells - April 4, 2009

Carrie Klein & Bill Mohrwinkel!
Married at the Mountain House on a gorgeous day!