Saturday, April 30, 2011

Kevin & Larry back from the Ruth

AMS Guide Kevin Mahoney & Larry returned yesterday on a beautiful day. Welcome back guys from a big adventure in the Ruth Glacier.

News from the April 25th Denali West Buttress Team

The Team at 370 feet elevation; Camp AMS, before heading to the airport.
Guide, Pat Ormond with Dean, Reid, Dana, Jack, Hal and Guide Nick D'Alessio.

AMS Guide Pat Ormond called in from 11,000' camp today. All is well with our first West Buttress team of 2011, they enjoyed a tasty pancake breakfast at 11:00am. They have been traveling in the afternoons to take advantage of the best weather conditions.

Today they plan to back carry (go down a few thousand feet) to pick up their extra food, fuel and equipment that they cached in a deep snow hole a few days ago. This caching technique helps the Denali climbers carry all of the needed equipment up the mountain while helping them acclimatize to the altitude. Gradually traveling between low and high elevations helps the body regulate to higher altitudes.

More to come!


Friday, April 29, 2011

Kids love boxes

AMS guide Beth Cleary and retired NPS employee Al Gallow help turn an empty box into a costume for Lisle.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

And They're Off!

Foraker Expedition members Kirk, Joey (guide), Bob, Bryan, Nate (guide) and Craig just before take-off.

Two expeditions launched today. The first Denali West Buttress of the 2011 season, led by Pat Ormond, were able to fly in this morning; one day late due to weather. Our Foraker Expedition led by Nate Opp and Joey McBrayer flew in this afternoon.

~Blogger Laura

Medical Protocols Review Class at AMS

Dr. Peter Hackett joining us via video to cover altitude related scenarios.

Dustin English responding to instructor Melis Coady's
review of patient care. New Dad, Joey McBrayer in red coat.

Multiple injuries scenario on the 16,200' Ridge.

Last weekend we held a Medical Protocols Review class for our staff. AMS lead guide and new mom, Melis Coady, taught the three day course for 18 of our guides.

~Blogger Laura

Monday, April 25, 2011

Mahoney heading for Dan Beard

Kevin Mahoney and Larry called in, enjoying their time in the Range! They are planning to climb Mt. Dan Beard tomorrow!
Photo by Brian Okonek
~Blogger Julia

Very Busy at AMS!

Pat Ormond, Nick D'Alessio and their 4/25/11 West Buttress team spent the day preparing for their expedition. Checking gear, fixed line ascension, eating... and waiting to see if they will get to fly to Base Camp tonight. Pat, Dean, Hal, Dana, Reid, Jack & Nick.

Nate & Joey packed food, getting ready for their Foraker expedition in a couple of days.

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Update from the Field

Guide Joe Butler called in today from the Kahiltna Glacier where his is guiding a custom mountaineering course. He and climber Jack are reviewing skills today. Yesterday, they climbed Mount Frances (10,450ft) making it within 200 feet of the summit but it was cold and late in the day, so they headed back to camp. Tomorrow they'll be climbing some rock walls at the base of Mount Frances.
They've had the place to themselves save for a bevy of Chinook and Pavehawk helicopters that came in yesterday to deliver the National Park Service base camp to the Kahiltna Glacier.
The weather has been excellent.
~Blogger Laura

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Barrill Summit #2

Kevin Mahoney called in a bit ago, he and Geoff summitted Mount Barrill today!
The weather is fine whether you are in the Alaska Range or here in Talkeetna. The lake on 3rd Street is navigable by canoe, kayak or Xtra-Tufs, might need to go motorized soon.
~Blogger Julia

Friday, April 15, 2011

" the very tippy top"

Seth Hobby Photo, on the Moose's Tooth Summit Ridge, with The Japanese Couloir, Mount Barrill in the immediate background. The Japanese Couloir (just left and down from the center of the photo - click to enlarge) angles up and right and ends on the snow covered summit.

AMS Instructor/Guides Dan Corn & Joey McBrayer called in just now with Rutger, they are standing on the tippy top of Mount Barrill! They ascended via the Japanese Couloir and are now enjoying the view on a spectacular day from 7,650 feet above sea level.

They have been base camping with Kevin Mahoney and Geoff. After battling loads of snow, they are rappelling into a big crack in the Ruth Glacier for training, preparing for an attempt on Barrill tomorrow.

All are well, Rutger says "Hi!", Joey says "Hi to Little Judy & Melis!"
Cheers from the sun-drenched office in TKA,
~Blogger Julia

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Time to Climb! - Current Availability

April 25 - May 15: 1 space available
May 2 - 22:
1 space available
May 16 - June 5: FULL
May 22 - June 11: FULL
May 23 - June 12:
May 30 - June 19: FULL
June 6 - 26: FULL
June 13 - July 3: FULL
June 20 - July 12: FULL
June 27 - July 17: 3 spaces available

Aconcagua Expeditions
December TBA, 2011
January TBA, 2012
February TBA, 2012

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: FULL

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: FULL

May 8-19: available
June 12-23:
July 20-31:
August 14-25:
September 1-12:

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
May 26-31: available
June 17-22: available
July 8-13:
August 1-6:
September 4-9:

June 30-July 6: available
July 23-29:
August 12-19:
July 8-11: available
August 1-4:

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

A limited number of dates are still available for Private West Buttress Denali Expeditions, contact AMS for details.

Many other custom climbs are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

See our full
schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 6 pm Alaska Time.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Ruth climbers

Everyone called in today. Pictured here, to the left is the South Face of Mount Dan Beard. Kevin Mahoney and Geoff are on route as we speak. I didn't actually talk to Kevin today, but Joey called in while on route on the South Eastern shoulder of Mount Dan Beard. They were having a great time on the ridge. Joey, Dan and Rutger are having a blast and were already talking about their next route objective.

Guide, Zack Shlosar called in from camp. They made an attempt on Mount Dickey yesterday. They ran into lots of snow on that side of the mountain which made them decide to eventually return to camp. Regardless, they are having a good time. They are heading back to the Mountain House in the morning.

These photos are of the Ruth Gorge area. The Ruth Gorge is a very large area. You can see why climbers from all over the world show up. The Mountain House is a place that a lot of climbers like to stay at as well as the general public who have zero mountaineering experience.

There is something for everyone in the Alaska Range.


Sunday, April 10, 2011

Weather Break!

Guides Joey and Dan flew in this after noon with Rutger to start their adventure. Their original plan was to head out to the far SW corner of Denali National Park, but at least 8 feet of snow had accumulated in the last few days. They changed their plans and went to the Ruth Glacier. The Ruth should be considered one of the 7 wonders of the world. With granite walls close to a mile tall, it attracts climbers from all over the world. Rutger is psyched !!

Kevin and Geoff also headed into the Ruth glacier. The two groups have different agendas, but both of them are planning on climbing as much as possible as well as learning all that they can. I heard Kevin and Geoff talking about different fast and light strategies for climbing the peaks that they are shooing for. Kevin has plenty of experience with that to say the least.

AMS currently rules this area, as Zach Shlosar is also in there climbing and teaching Joanne and Logan Haines.


Thursday, April 7, 2011

But Wait, There's More.....Snow

Holy Buckets 'o Snow. It is coming down like crazy here at the AMS HQ. We've got a group waiting to go in the field and another scheduled for tomorrow. When it comes to flying into the Alaska Range, out motto is, "Be Flexible."

That's me taking a break from the office while guides are busy packing.

Blogger Laura

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Spring Migration has Begun

Just like the songbirds, guides are starting to trickle back to AMS Headquarters...some of them a little in shock. Just four days ago, guide Dan Corn was in the desert and now look what he's doing! He'll leave in a couple days to guide a custom climb of Mount Russell.

It has been snowing for the two days, more is in the forecast, and we love it!
The climbing season is upon us once again.

Blogger Laura