2010 Blog Evaluation

As we go into next season, we reminisce the feedback from last,..

Hello Everyone,

My name is Tony Lutes, I'm a member and boardmember of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska. I have a few buds climbing Denali this season and just wanted to tell you that your blog has been a valuable and reassuring tool in keeping up with the conditions and overall success of the 2010 climbing season on Denali. Although my buds are not climbing with you guys, just knowing that there is a group up on the mountain at the same time is always a secure feeling. Anyone that wants to get into or has gotten into mountaineering, and probably not just in Alaska, knows the reputation of AMS and the fact that this is the best way to ensure a safe, professional, the most skillful way into the mountains of Alaska. Thank you for the updates of the blog and I hope one day to get into a class of yours, but even if I don't, I will confidently, always point anyone in your direction.

Stay warm and climb safe!

Sincerely,

Tony Lutes

Team Aconcagua

This just in from the team leader Joe Brown,

"You guys make the climb easy through your knowledge and ease to work with. Both times (Denali and Aconcagua) I have walked away a better soldier after spending time with you and your crew. With our busy schedules I would not return to a company or service provider if the fit was not perfect. Tom Torkelson and Nick D'Alessio made eight soldiers smarter dealing with altitude and logistics to sustain a small element in the mountains."

WFR's, Courses and Expeditions are Filling. Don't Delay, Call Today!

If you need to take a full Wilderness First Responder Course...we have only one spot left. If you need to renew, hurry, as few spaces remain.

Here is the current availability for Expeditions, Courses and Workshops in 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: (FULL)

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15
May 2 - 22
May 9 - 29
May 16 - June 5: (FULL)
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26
June 13 - July 3
June 20 - July 12: (FULL)

June 27 - July 17

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13, One Space Left!
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21
March 26-28

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

Let is snow!
~blogger Laura

AMS upgrades washing station.

A lot goes into making an expedition successful. At AMS we like to improve on the areas in our control. Hygiene is imperative as lack of it is the number one cause of illness for the entire group on any expedition. One of our winter projects this year was to install a commercial dishwasher. We have a 3 basin sink in order to wash, rinse, and disinfect all our cook gear. The new dishwasher has a rinse cycle of 180 degrees F which insures everything coming out of the field is as clean as possible for the next expedition. AMS is committed to always improving in order to be at the top of our game.

Mid January Update

After a cold snap with temps down to minus 25 degrees, it has warmed up to 11 degrees and is dumping a fine white powder as I write this. Yes!

Here is the current availability for Expeditions, Courses and Workshops in 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: (FULL)

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces available

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15
May 2 - 22
May 9 - 29
May 16 - June 5: (FULL)
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26
June 13 - July 3
June 20 - July 12: (FULL)

June 27 - July 17

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21
March 26-28

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

Let is snow!
~blogger Laura

Outdoor Photographer Article

Tom Bol recently published an article referencing the AMS Photography Workshop he taught last fall. Check it out in the December issue of Outdoor Photographer magazine. We are looking forward to next year's workshop Tom and Colby are teaching together. It will be even more fun with under-cover 4-wheeler support to haul the big 2.8 lenses.

This Just In...

AMS guide Tom Torkelson just phoned in from base camp (13,779 ft, 4200 m) on Aconcagua.

"Everything is going well," said Tom. They are on their third day at base camp and did an acclimitization peak of 16,000 feet. They have two more nights at base camp before they move up. The weather is windy but that is normal.

We'll post more when we hear from them.

Blogger Laura

Oh! What a Beautiful Morning!

It's good to be alive! Here is the view at 11 am in Talkeetna. Another beautiful day in winter paradise.
We have some availability updates for you, I hope to post them by the end of the day.
Please Note: We are having problems with e-mail; the server seems to be functioning intermittently. Once it starts "serving" again, it will take us a bit to get caught up on email. If there is something urgent, give us a call.
Cheers,
~Blogger Julia
907-733-1016, 10 am to 5 pm Weekdays, AK Time (4 hours earlier than East Coast Time).

Aconcagua 2011 season at AMS has begun

January 10th marked the start of AMS' 2011 season of big mountain climbs.

AMS Super Guides, Tom Torkelson and Nick D'Allessio are leading a full team of Aconcagua climbers in Mendoza, Argentina working the team through logistics and permits, and will head to higher altitudes tomorrow. They hit the trail on the 13th and we wish them lots of fun and much good luck.


Aconcagua at 22,841' (6962 meters) is the Western Hemispheres highest peak and, as with all mountains, has a personality all its own. The expedition has a festive atmostphere combined with long days on the trail during the approach, making this section of the route great for team building. The winds can kick in higher on the mountain letting climbers experience the infamous "viento blanco" - white winds of Aconcagua. Climbers need to be on top of their game to meet the challenges of life at high altitude on this peak, it's a very rewarding climb.

As the team is in Argentina, we do our best to keep in touch, but on the mountain communication are tough. We will update their progress here as the expedition progresses.

Have fun out there,
Caitlin

Avalanche Awareness Courses

The Alaska Avalanche School has announced courses for this winter.
The Alaska snow is calling you!
www.AlaskaAvalanche.com
They are offering a professional-level course in February.

Enjoy the snow!
~Blogger Julia

First Update of the Year!

We hope you're enjoying the New Year so far. We are enjoying mild temps and great snow! The sunrise today was spectacular with the tops of the Alaska Range peaks washed in pastel colors.

Here is the current availability for 2011:

Aconcagua Expeditions
January 10 - 28: (FULL)
February 10 - 28: (FULL)

Foraker - Sultana Expedition
April 27 - May 13: (FULL)

Denali - Upper West Rib
May 21 - June 10: 2 spaces

Denali - West Buttress Expeditions
April 25 - May 15: 4 spaces
May 2 - 22: 5 spaces
May 9 - 29: 5 spaces
May 16 - June 5: 1 space
May 23 - June 12: (FULL)
May 30 - June 19: (FULL)
June 6 - 26: 1 space
June 13 - July 3: 5 spaces
June 20 - July 12: 1 space

June 27 - July 17: 5 spaces

Mountain Guide Course
April 15 - 26: 5 spaces

Advanced Mountaineering Course
May 6 - 17: 4 spaces

Denali Prep Course/Kahiltna Dome
June 5-14: 6 spaces

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

6 Day Mountaineering Courses
Several Dates: all have availability

7 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses
4 Day Wilderness Backpacking Courses

Several Dates: all have availability

Denali Photo Workshop
August 22-27: available

Wilderness First Responder Courses
WFR 70-Hour Course
March 5-13: 5 spaces
WFR 3-day Recert
March 19-21: 15 spaces
March 26-28: 14 spaces

Custom Courses
Custom Expeditions
A limited number of dates are still available for Denali, contact AMS for details.
Many other custom options are available - all over the Alaska Range!

Check out our Glacier Treks!

Here is the full schedule for more options.
Call or email AMS if you have any questions!
907-733-1016
info@climbalaska.org
We're in the office Monday-Friday, 10 am - 5 pm Alaska Time.

Happy January!
~blogger Julia