Tuesday, May 15, 2012

A little Ham with your Eggs




AMS guides Kirsten Kremer and Lisa Vansciver called in from the root canal at the base of the South Face of the Moose's Tooth this evening.  They are in there with AMS Alumni (2 mountaineering courses) Adina Vultur.  Adina was psyched to try out something much more technical and more challenging this time around.

Kirsten and Lisa are two very talented climbers, skiers and guides.  They are also two of the more enjoyable people to be around, period.  They can climb and ski just about anything and they are also both very patient and good teachers as well.

When I was talking to Kirsten (AKA Kremer) there was a party on the route right now (they are in there to climb Ham n Eggs, on the Moose's Tooth by the way).  There is another party climbing it tomorrow and our crew is going for it the following day.  They are going to go for a tour and climb the Sweet Tooth tomorrow.

Let's see if I can describe a few features of the above photo:  The glacier just above the center of the picture is the "root canal".  This is where Kirsten, Lisa and Adina are camped.  The highest summit in the photo, ever so slightly to the left of center near the top of the pic, is the main summit of the Moose's Tooth.  Follow the summit of the Mooses Tooth slightly down and left to where it just starts to go up again.  This "col" is the top of the route they are trying to climb.  Just below the col is a sun shade line.  The left sun shade line is the route, more or less.  If you followed those directions easily enough, I'll give you some more.  Start in the center of the photo> go straight right until you see the really big obvious notch> this is called Espresso Gap.  AMS guide and Mountain Hardwear athlete Freddie Wilkinson along with The North Face athlete and friend, Renan Ozturk are looking to do a climb they are calling the "Tooth Traverse".  They are starting at Espresso Gap and climbing the ridge lines all the way to the summit of the Moose's Tooth and finishing by climbing over all of the other summits of the Moose's Tooth and finally down the West Ridge of the Moose's Tooth back onto the main flow of the Ruth Glacier.  That's a full set of teeth and never been done before.  We wish them all luck!

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