Friday, December 27, 2013

Miss the Roadhouse?!

Most AMS courses, climbs, and expeditions start and end with the Roadhouse. The bakery and bunkhouse is at the heart of Talkeetna and nourishes our climbers with gargantuan muffins, cinnamon rolls, and pancakes that are made from a sourdough starter from the early 1900's.

After a strenuous climb you might find yourself up to the challenge of a plate called the full standard- with a heaps of scrambled eggs, country potatoes, bacon or links of reindeer sausage, and thick toast, you'll leave this meal a little heavier. They also have several lodging options for groups and individuals.

We are glad they are open all winter too. Thanks Trisha!

Thursday, December 26, 2013

Expedition Availability

Climbers descend from 14,200 foot camp on Denali. Mt. Foraker in background.
Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        4 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        3 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       FULL
May 12 - June 1,        4 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       2 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

Mail Run

video
It's no Iditarod sled dog race, but it does take some effort to check the mail here at AMS in the winter. It has been -20F on and off for the last few weeks in Talkeetna. It is more effort to deice and warm up a vehicle than it is to just bike places. So send us something worth retrieving!

Alaska Mountaineering School
PO Box 566
Talkeetna, AK 99676

Heading to Regionals!

Skyler, son of AMS photography workshop instructor Tom Bol, got 4th place at the Colorado state boulder comp and qualified for west coast regional comp in Tucson.

We are very excited…note he is wearing AMS swag!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Crevasse rescue- the good, bad, and the ugly!


The Good:
Learning crevasse rescue techniques is a critical skill on our mountaineering courses. We like for these skills to be hands on and often groups go to the lip of a real crevasse and practice hauling gear and each other out. The process is very controlled and fun.

We love this explanation by Dave Weber at 11,000 feet on Denali on mechanical advantage:

Rope Pulley System 1:1 --> 9:1 from Menno Boermans on Vimeo.

The Bad and the Ugly:
Sharpen your ice axes and check out this sketchy crevasse rescue video! You won't find this teaching technique used many places...

Friday, November 29, 2013

Thursday, November 21, 2013

2014 Expedition Availability



Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       6 spaces available
May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       5 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

15-Day Mountaineering Course

Join us on our 15-day mountaineering course

AMS Instructor Melis Coady rappels out of Little Switzerland with student Joseph Bell.
Last year was our first year offering this course where students climbed for 12-days in Little Switzerland on the Pika glacier and then spent 3-days hiking out to the road. Students did a series of 5 rappels with large packs to the granite glacier where they began their 3-day 30-mile cross country trek through the foothills of the Alaska Range with amazing vistas and wildlife viewing opportunities.

Ascending Wildhorse basin from the Granite glacier. Granite spires of Little Switzerland in the background.














Dates: July 8 - 22, 2014

Cost: $3,300

Apply Here

Students navigate out of this trail-less area with map and compass.


Breathe In the Light

In June of 2012, during the week of the Summer Solstice, filmmakers Bloom and McKinney invited four survivors of sexual assault on an uncommon journey. Led by two Alaska Mountaineering School guides and a certified wilderness therapist, the women trekked in the Alaska Range exploring both internal and external terrain.  During the arc of a week’s hike, four women--strangers united by their shared experiences of trauma--learn safety, judgment, leadership, teamwork, and how to navigate their own personal layers of landscape.

Friday, November 8, 2013

Hunter 2014

There may be a team forming for an attempt on Mt. Hunters incredibly aesthetic west ridge. We are looking for a few more strong climbers to round out the team. Call AMS for more info.

2014 Expedition Availability

Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        5 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        5 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       6, spaces available

May 12 - June 1,        5 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       2 spaces available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       6 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

Hunter, West Ridge, 14 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 1-14, This expedition may be taking form based on high interest of a number of strong climbers and AMS graduates- call if interested.

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

End of Season Sale!

The AMS Mountain Shop End of Season Sale is Saturday, November 9 from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM. The sale features used outdoor equipment, snowshoes, sleeping bags, ropes and 40% off retail items. Colby would love to see you on Saturday!  The shop is located on F Street, East Talkeetna.

Friday, October 25, 2013

Let it snow!

A change in the jet stream has made for an unusually warm and wet fall here in Alaska. The latest result has been a large landslide in Denali National Park.

Below is a aerial photo of the Denali park road at approximately Mile 37. This site is west of Tattler Creek, on the section of road going up to Sable Pass.

 
The slide, which consists of an estimated 30,000 yards of rock and soil, covers approximately 200 feet of the road in depths of up to 35 feet. The material was released from a point 500 feet above the road, and flowed south below the road. No one was hurt and crews are working to remove the debris.
Still, all this rain down low has been snow on Denali! The peak revealed itself today and looks cozily covered in tons of snow. That bodes well for good glacier travel conditions next summer. Later in the winter it can be too cold and windy to get much snow accumulation on the glaciers.
Hope you all are having a good start to winter.