Friday, December 27, 2013

Miss the Roadhouse?!

Most AMS courses, climbs, and expeditions start and end with the Roadhouse. The bakery and bunkhouse is at the heart of Talkeetna and nourishes our climbers with gargantuan muffins, cinnamon rolls, and pancakes that are made from a sourdough starter from the early 1900's.

After a strenuous climb you might find yourself up to the challenge of a plate called the full standard- with a heaps of scrambled eggs, country potatoes, bacon or links of reindeer sausage, and thick toast, you'll leave this meal a little heavier. They also have several lodging options for groups and individuals.

We are glad they are open all winter too. Thanks Trisha!

Thursday, December 26, 2013

Expedition Availability

Climbers descend from 14,200 foot camp on Denali. Mt. Foraker in background.
Denali, West Buttress, 21 days, 6 climbers, 2 - 3 guides

April 27 - May 17,     4 spaces available
May 5 - May 25,        4 spaces available
May 9 - May 29,        3 spaces available
May 11 - May 31,       FULL
May 12 - June 1,        4 spaces available
May 19 - June 8,        4 spaces available
May 23 - June 12,      5 spaces available
May 26 - June 15,       1 space available
June 2 - June 22,       3 spaces available
June 9 - June 29,       5 spaces available
June 12 - July 2,         6 spaces available
June 16 - July 6,         6 spaces available
June 23 - July 13,       FULL
June 25 - July 15,       2 spaces available

Denali,  West Rib, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides

June 7 - June 27      2 spaces available

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 21 days, 4 climbers, 2 guides
May 17 - June 6,     FULL

Mail Run

It's no Iditarod sled dog race, but it does take some effort to check the mail here at AMS in the winter. It has been -20F on and off for the last few weeks in Talkeetna. It is more effort to deice and warm up a vehicle than it is to just bike places. So send us something worth retrieving!

Alaska Mountaineering School
PO Box 566
Talkeetna, AK 99676

Heading to Regionals!

Skyler, son of AMS photography workshop instructor Tom Bol, got 4th place at the Colorado state boulder comp and qualified for west coast regional comp in Tucson.

We are very excited…note he is wearing AMS swag!

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Crevasse rescue- the good, bad, and the ugly!


The Good:
Learning crevasse rescue techniques is a critical skill on our mountaineering courses. We like for these skills to be hands on and often groups go to the lip of a real crevasse and practice hauling gear and each other out. The process is very controlled and fun.

We love this explanation by Dave Weber at 11,000 feet on Denali on mechanical advantage:

Rope Pulley System 1:1 --> 9:1 from Menno Boermans on Vimeo.

The Bad and the Ugly:
Sharpen your ice axes and check out this sketchy crevasse rescue video! You won't find this teaching technique used many places...