Sunday, April 28, 2013

Whew! Busy Day at AMS HQ

Non-stop action here at the end of 3rd Street.

A group headed into the Mountain House for a few days with guides Melis Coady and Brian Skean.

The 6-Day Mountaineering Course geared up and headed to the airport for a 5:00 PM flight into the Pika Glacier.

Our Mountain Guides course returned from the Range...they skied out the Ruth Glacier crossing Alder Creek and back to the road where we met them with fresh fruit for the drive back to town. We'll post some pictures from the course; they saw grizzly tracks in the snow!

The weather continues to be GORGEOUS with blue skies and sunshine.

Melis and Brian checking gear.

Sounds like they have some jamming planned for their stay at the Mountain House!
This happy gang is headed to the Mountain House on a splitter day.

Mountaineering 6 -Day course students and guides: Dana, Travis, Dustin, Tim, Melissa, Dustin, Ken, Mike and Ray just before heading to the airport.

Sam is all smiles after getting out of the mountains on the Mountain Guides course.

Zach, Will and Dan unpacking.

Guide Wes Bunch has got a tan!

MTC-6 Students getting a lesson in fixed line ascension.

Geared up and waiting for their turn...

Saturday, April 27, 2013

AMS 12 day Mountaineering course, 4/22/13-5/3/13

AMS guide Alex Stroud called in from the Pika Glacier this afternoon.

They have been having a great time in there.  They got to do a bit of skiing today and he said the conditions were perfect.

Blue skies and calm at the moment.  They are planning on moving camp down glacier tomorrow to be in closer vicinity to some of the best easily accessible rock climbing in the Alaska Range.

The Pika Glacier (AKA Little Switzerland) is an AMS favorite.  Our April 6 day Mountaineering Course is planning on heading in there tomorrow as well.

A freshly dusted Little Switzerland with an AMS cook tent in the foreground.

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

AMS Mountain Guide's course

AMS Guide, Dan Corn and Wesley Bunch called in today from about 2700 feet on the lower Ruth Glacier.  They have been having a really good time on the course and are learning a ton.

They were looking up at Alder pass from the lower Ruth Glacier and talking about shuttling equipment to the pass and sleeping back down on the glacier.  They are planning on crossing the frozen Chulitna River and arriving at the Parks Highway on the 28th, where we will meet them with fresh fruits, chips, salsa and a passenger van with the windows rolled down.

What an awesome adventure!!
Looking South down the Ruth Glacier/Gorge where the Guides course travelled over the last several days.

Conversation with Colby Coombs!

Owner/Climber/Guide Colby Coombs will be a guest on Alaska Public Radio Station KSKA's program: Outdoor Explorer, tomorrow April 25th, the live program will be from 2:00-3:00 PM AST and repeated from 7:00- 8:00 PM, AST.

We are sure that host, Annie Feidt will lead an interesting and informative conversation.  Denali Guiding legend and local historian, Brian Okonek will also be on the air. Here is a chance to call in and ask Colby and Brian your best questions about climbing Denali.

For more information click the link to the station below:

http://www.alaskapublic.org/2013/04/19/denali-climbing-season-begins/

Thanks for listing and for your support!

AMS climbers on the 16 ridge, West Buttress Denali

AMS climbers practicing clipping through running pro at 14,200'






Monday, April 22, 2013

12 Day Mountaineering Course Flies into the Pika

Another mountaineering course left today under bluebird conditions for 12 fun filled days in Little Switzerland. Guides Alex Stroud and Jeremiah Phelps are ready to have some great learning and fun with students Joe, Dale, Yarrow and David.

Yarrow practices some knots.

Jeremiah and David go over the finer points of a pack tether.

Alex looks over Dale's gear.

Ready for Action: Dale, Yarrow, David, Joe, Alex and Jeremiah striking a post. That snow behind them was plowed up so we could access our gear building...we couldn't wait for it to melt!

Breakfast Is Finished

Here's some pictures from the Ham & Eggs climb. Todd and Brent are back in the flat lands...
Looking down at Mounts Dickey and Bradley from the Incisor climb.


Brent on pitch 11 of the route...click on the photo to enlarge and see the airplane on the landing strip below!

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Mountain Guides Course Update

Guide Dan Corn from the Mountain Guides Course, called this morning. They are going to head down the Ruth Glacier to check out the Ice Fall route. They have been having classes and training in the Ruth Amphitheater. It is going great and they are having supremely beautiful weather.
Here's a picture from a course last year on the Ruth Glacier.

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Ham 'n' Eggs

AMS Guide Todd Tumolo called in from the "col" at the top of the route.  He said they had an awesome climb.  The route is in great shape.  They were just in the process of brewing up a hot drink before they started the rappels back down the same route they just climbed up.

Todd and Brent left camp at 4 AM this morning, were climbing by 5 and had reached the top of the route by 3 PM.

Very well done indeed.  Todd said they were going to sleep in tomorrow (Sunday).
Brian Okonek Photo of the South Face of the Moose's Tooth.  

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Ham & Eggs For Breakfast

Guide Todd Tumolo and climber, Brent flew onto the Ruth Glacier for a custom climb of Ham 'N Eggs. The weather is stellar with blue skies and a high pressure system set to hang around a while.
Almost T-shirt weather today at AMS HQ

At the airport.

2013 Season Underway!

With the departure of the Mountain Guides Course, the 2013 climbing season has officially begun!
Four students and two guides left yesterday afternoon for the Ruth Glacier where they will begin twelve days of learning, adventure and climbing. Their plan is to ski out of the Alaska Range and hike back to the road system.
Guide Wes Bunch reviews gear

Guide Dan Corn with student Amos checking off the list

The Team: Wes, Sam, Zach, Will, Amos and Dan



Friday, April 12, 2013

Collins Claims a First Ascent

Greg Collins, who has been leading expeditions and courses for us since 1998, just made the first ski descent of the North Face of the Grand Teton which for "decades has loomed large in the annals of American mountaineering, a goal of climbers worldwide, but on March 31 it became a ski run."

You can read the full article from the Jackson Hole News

Greg will be up here this summer guiding the full West Rib of Denali.

Well done Greg!


Putting our Rigging Skills to New Use!

We recently helped with a salvage operation on an island near Kodiak, Alaska. Colby Coombs and Jereimah Phelps handled the safety and rigging operations that allowed workers to remove the remains of four life boats that crashed off of the grounded Kulluk Oil rig back in December. The seas were hammering the lifeboats and tore them up over the past few months. All debris was cut up and removed from the beaches.