Friday, May 16, 2014

AMS Denali, West Rib (Buttress) - 5/2, Todd Tumolo


AMS guide Todd Tumolo and his team made a carry to the top of the fixed lines yesterday.  They were planning on moving to high camp today, but the winds on the 16 ridge are preventing them from doing that.

On the lower mountain, where it is warmer, we can often carry and or move in more inclement weather and even whiteouts.  We can do this because it is much warmer and the terrain is a lot more moderate.  On the upper mountain (above11k) we need to have much better weather to move and carry.  The terrain is more technical and the temps are much colder, so we wait for the right days to advance our camps.
Here a climber from another expedition is shown making a windy move to high camp on one of our carry days.  This is  going around Washburn's Thumb.  This climber does NOT have an adequate back pack, just saying.  See all of the stuff strapped to the outside...?  A well prepared Denali climber has a back pack that they can fit all of their stuff, plus group gear INSIDE their pack.  This means a pack of at least 95 liters.
We recommend the Mountain Hardware BMG, 105 liters.

Everyone is doing well up there and just waiting on the right conditions to do what they need to do.

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