Tuesday, June 3, 2014

ALL AMS Denali and AMS Foraker Updates


AMS climbers heading toward windy corner from 11,000 camp. Brian Okonek photograph.


Whew, what a busy set of days we have had both at the AMS HQ and in the Alaska Range.

Tonight AMS Guide / Managing Member Colby Coombs called in from the Windy Corner area on the West Buttress Route. His entire team is doing extremely well.  Colby reports that Jing Wang is a very strong climber and has been a great to climb with.  They are making their way quickly up the mountain, as she is strong and acclimatized to higher altitudes from her recent climb on Everest.

His team, along with AMS Teams: 5/25: AG-Japan/Alex Stroud, 5/25: Dustin English (custom traverse team), and 5/26: Larry Holmgren are moving to the 14,200' basin camp tonight.  They expected to be in camp by about now and they will be warmly greeted by our other teams: 5/23 Opp and 5/26: Wagner (custom West Buttress), as previously mentioned in a post today.

Looking directly down on Windy Corner, (base of sharp ridge on left), 14,200 basin and route to base of fixed lines.  Try expanding the photo for details of the trail and camp. The sharp ridge is part of the actual West Buttress of Denali.  Photo taken by Colby Coombs.
Here is what our teams are doing (or have already done) tonight! The circle of blocks will be the kitchen zone. This is 14,200' camp on a previous AMS expedition.
Colby was glad to report that today was the first nice day they have had on the route.  So far, they have been traveling up the Kahiltna Glacier in windy and snowy conditions.

AMS climbers, 14,200' camp and the top of Mt. Foraker, best views ever.
The winds decreased significantly for the Foraker Team lead by Coady and Hoeschen and they have begun their climb back toward Kahiltna Base Camp with much diligence; due to the fresh snow and high winds they have just experienced.   They have made their way across the horizontal ridge and they are camped on the Kahiltna (east) side of Mt. Crosson tonight. Conditions permitting, they plan to be back to Kahiltna Base Camp tomorrow. Their adventure continues and they will have some stories to tell!


Denali's West Buttress Route: AMS teams are making their way up in good form.


1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Thanks so much for the Foraker update! Here's to a safe return for sll. Mary, we're looking forward to hearing all about it.


Cathie