Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Denali West Buttress, 5/11: English and Ronczkowski 5/15: Update!

AMS guide English leading the 5/11 team contacted headquarters today to say the team is continuing to hold at 11,000 feet, as Windy Corner is living up to it's name and is blustery. Windy Corner is on the route up to 14K camp. They are hanging tight and will be nicely acclimated for when they do move up to 14K camp, the plan is for tomorrow if the winds calm. Currently at 11k camp there is light snow and moderate wind.

AMS guide Noah Ronczkowski leading the 5/15 team has joined Dustin English at 11,000 feet yesterday with a strong team and cooperative weather on the lower glacier, allowing for quick travel. They will spend the day resting and acclimating,  while back-carrying to grab their previously placed cache at 9,800 feet.

AMS is all about teamwork and leadership! We take care of each other on the mountain. 

The most memorable trips are not necessarily those in which the route objective has been completed; they are the ones in which everyone worked well together while exerting their personal best effort. What exactly do we mean by leadership at AMS?  Good leaders never lose sight of the goal to work together as a team. Leadership is practical, like bomb proofing a camp before going to bed. Leadership reflects good judgment in finding a route strategy that identifies hazards and overcomes obstacles. Leadership is enabling the team to learn what questions need to be asked.  Leadership is about communication and interacting with others to get the job done. Being considerate, respectful, and tolerant to adversity are all qualities AMS staff strive for personally and model for their teams.

AMS camp setup at 9,800 feet, where on a typical west buttress you would cache here and not camp. 

AMS climber going up on the lower glacier with some wind in the area

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