Sunday, May 31, 2015

All teams update from Denali!

AMS team lead by guides Noah and Adam have returned to green Talkeetna on a sunny, 80 degree day. Everyone was strong heading down the West Buttress and have returned five days ahead of schedule.


AMS Denali team 5/15 on SUMMIT of Denali! Guides Adam Fabrikant and Noah Ronczkowski along with climbers Dany Bueschlen, Dave Kestner, Bjoern Luginbuehl, and Christoph Steiger. Good job team! 

AMS 5/15 Denali team excited to make the transition from white Denali to green Talkeetna, congratulations on your summit accomplishment! 

AMS 5/15 team unpacking, feeling the grass between their toes, and enjoying fresh watermelon. 


AMS team lead by Todd Tumolo has reached 14,200 foot camp today on a nice, clear day. They went back down to grab their cache below. Todd reports a little wind, but much calmer than before.

 Director Caitlin Palmer took these photos of 11K camp this morning on a flight around Denali checking in on the teams and conditions.

All other teams are on schedule: Stroud (5/29) is at 7,800' camp, Colby (Custom 5/26) is resting at 14K camp, Eroh (5/27) has arrived at 11K camp and is back carrying today, and Holmgren (5/18) has made it to high camp at 17,200'. Everyone is doing well!

AMS photo taken 5/31 of 11,000' camp with climbers heading up out of camp


AMS photo taken 5/31 of 11,000' camp with climbers resting around Squirrel Hill and also approaching Windy Corner if you look closely at the sun/shade line. Todd Tumolo and crew were moving in this area right about the time the photo was taken








Saturday, May 30, 2015

All AMS Teams Mountain Update.

Its a clear, calm and, believe it or not, a scorching hot day on Denali at 14,200' and lower elevations.

All AMS teams report that all is going well.


AMS team 5/15 led by guides Noah Ronczkowski and Adam Fabrikant are moving down to 14,200' today and will rest for a while and then continue to descend to basecamp tonight; they will travel through the night and hope to fly out to Talkeetna tomorrow morning. This is a long day with alot of miles underfoot for this team.  Its amazing how fast it will go for them.


AMS team decending the 16K ridgeline from 17,200', high camp.

Previous AMS team on the all nigth descent form 14,200' This is is aprox. 13,400'

AMS team 5/18 led by guides Larry Holmgren and Nate Emerson are resting today and plan to move to high camp, 17,200' early tomorrow morning. They are doing great.
Previous AMS team moving up the fixed lines on the way to 17,200'


AMS team 5/25 led by guides Todd Tumolo and Jeremiah Phelps carried to windy corner today, they plan to move to 14,200' tomorrow and they are feeling strong. They are camped at 11,000' tonight.
AMS at windy corner on a beautiful and calm day.


AMS team 5/26 led by guides Colby Coombs and Michael Gardener are at Windy Corner and are moving up to 14,200' camp today.
AMS moving around Windy Corner and into 14,200 ' camp



14,200' camp and the view to the west, Denali National Park


AMS team 5/27 led by guides Dustin Eroh and Curtis Green made a carry to 9,800 yesterday and will move to 11,000' camp today.

AMS moving up from 7,800' to 11,000 camp, view down glacier to the south, the Kahilnta Glacier is a big one and this is a great day for the views.

AMS team 5/29 led by guides Alex Stroud and Scott Patch enjoyed an acclimation day at 7,200' basecamp today, tonight they plan to move to 7,800'.

Steller views from 7,800' camp.

The Denali Prep/ Kahiltna Dome expedtion is doing great.  They are making their way up to their next camp near 9,800' Denali Pass. Photos below: camp life on the Denali Prep/ K' Dome course.








Friday, May 29, 2015

AMS Denali: 5/18: Holmgren, 5/25: Tumolo, 5/26: Coombs, 5/27: Eroh

Its a beautiful day on The Mountain.

AMS team 5/18 led by guides Larry Holmgren and Nate Emerson acclimitized today and hiked up to the top of the fixed lines. They are looking forward to their move to high camp.

16,400' on Denali, just past the top of the fixed lines


AMS team 5/25 led by Guide Todd Tumolo and Jeremiah Phelps back carried today, picking up their previously caches food, fuel and super warm clothing for higher up. This day kind of feels  like a rest day for them.

AMS team 5/26 led by Colby Coombs and Michael Gardener are resting happily at 11,000' today.

11,000' camp looking towards the West Buttress proper of Denali in the clouds...


AMS team 5/27 led by Dustin Eroh and Curtis Green are making upward progress as well, and are either carrying to 9,800' or will move to 11,000' - Ill keep you updated.
7,800' camp looking into the north east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and the western face of Denali.


All teams report all is well!  Great news and great work everyone!

AMS guide Greg Collins, requesting snow blocks that are "this big"  to build a fortified AMS camp.




AMS May 26 Kahiltna Dome / Denali Prep Course

Denali Prep / Kahiltna Dome Course leader Nate Opp phoned in today and reported that they are doing great.  They are camping at 8,800' on the Kahilnta glacier tonight and will be making the move to 10,000' tomorrow.  Nate reports that the weather has been perfect for them and that the team is great!

Below photos are from a previous AMS Kahiltna Dome/ Denali Prep course. the current team is experiencing similar weather!





Denali West Buttress: 5/15: ON THE SUMMIT

Congratualtions to the AMS May 15 expedtion led by guides Noah Ronczkowski and Adam Fabrikant.  I just got a call from Noah who was standing on the top on North America 20,320' with the team.  It is clear, cold and fairly calm up there today.

Way to dig deep and be patient to this team, they earned it!

We look forward to seeing this crew when they return to Talkeetna in a few days!



Phto of the Denali's summit and the views they are enjoying.


Denali WB 5/19, Stroud departs

AMS Denali WB team led by Guides Alex Stroud and Scott Patch have departed for the Talkeetna airport.  They had a busy day and really enjoyed the warm temperatures as they reviewed skills and packed their gear.

The team was so efficient they were able to go for ice cream and milkshakes before the flight.

We look forward to hearing from them as they progress up the mountain!

The weather is good, they will be at basecamp in about an hour!

Good luck team!

Practicing  Knots

Von packing gear
Brad, Andrew, Von, Simon, Michael, Guide Alex Stroud
Guide Scott Patch and Emese

Denali WB, 5/11, English Returns

AMS 5/11 Denali Expedition team returned to warm weather along with guides Dustin English, John Sykes and Jimmy Voohris. They were quick to unload and sort gear and enjoy the summer weather and fresh fruit and juice.

In spite of the strong winds that kept the team from getting to highcamp, everyone is happy with the experience. Wednesday the team were able to get to Washburn's Thumb.

The group just left for the Roadhouse for a well deserved brunch!

Congrats for an sucessful expedtion to this team, they worked hard and endured some serious winds during their expedtion.

Washburn's Thumb

Drying tents
Hanging gear


Thursday, May 28, 2015

AMS Denali All teams update

Updates from All AMS Denali teams!

AMS May 11 team led by guides Dustin English, John Sykes and Jim Voorhis plan to descend towards basecamp tonight, due to high winds at higher elevations.  We may see them as soon as tomorrow, we look forward to welcoming them back!

Previous AMS team descending to basecamp, our teams normally descend overnight to take advantage of the cool temperatures. 


AMS May 15 team led by guides Noah Ronczkowski and Adam Fabrikant are at high camp (17,200'), today they are camping in the wind, and this sis omethign they have gotten very good at, they will wait at 17,200', and hope for calm days ahead. they are doing very well and were very strong when the moved up yesterday.
Previous AMS team waiting at high camp, with high winds above, 
View from high camp, 17,200' on Denali's West Buttress


AMS May 18 team led by guides Larry Holmgren and Nate Emerson remain at 14,200' camp. They are doign well and enjoying the rest day!
Previous AMS camp at 14,200 camp, can't beat the views!

AMS May 25 team led by Todd Tumolo and Jeremiah Phelps have moved to 11,000' camp, they build walls as it was windy when they arrived and are doing really well. Everyone is happy!

AMS May 26 team led by Colby Coombs and Michael Gardener moved to 11,000' today.  They are doing well and will take a rest day their tomorrow.  They are doing great!

Previous AMS camp at 11,000' with the start of a nice snow wall.
AMS Building camp at 11,000'


AMS May 27 team led by Dustin Eroh and Curtis Green are at 7,800' they are doing great and report that they are happy and solid!

Previous AMS team and others at 7,800' camp on Denali



AMS 5/11 and 5/18 Team: REcent photos of life at 14,200 Camp life

Returning AMS guide, BEth Cleary was thoughtful and took a few photos of our teams at 14,200' a few days ago. She has returned from the lad of white to the land of the green and sent these on to us to share with you at home!


AMS 5/11 Denali Team @ 14,200'
Can you guess..? from the AMS 5/15 Denali Team
AMS guides Noah Ronczkowski and Adam Fabrikant
The 5/15 team taking a break between storm at 14,200'
AMS 5/18 Denali life in the kitchen tent at 14,200'
AMS 5/18 Denali Guides, Nate Emerson and Larry Holmgren their snow kitchen.

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

Custom Denali WB, 5/27 Eroh departs

The May 27 Denali, West Buttress, AMS team led by guides Dusty Eroh, Curtis Green departed with Christian and Jim for the airport and will fly onto the glacier today.  The team is flying to the Kahiltna Basecamp and are feeling ready!  This is a strong, experienced team and they are looking forward to a great climb.

Dusty and Christian discuss the rope systems.

Guide Dusty Eroh, climbers Jim and Christian, with AMS guide Curtis Green

AMS All Denali, West Buttress Teams Update

The weather is clear and relatively calm today on Denali, all climbers are happy about that, and have been waiting patiently for a break int he winds.

AMS teams are looking and feeling strong.

AMS May 11 team led by Dustin English is at 14,200' the team is planning a climb to 17,200' today, they will asses their timeframe, the weather, snow climbing and avalanche conditions on the higher mountain once at high camp and determine what ther next steps will be.  Here is hoping for this nice stable weather to hold strong for them.

AMS May 15 team led by Noah Ronczkowski is moving to 17,200' feet today: feelign good and feeling stoked!

AMS May 18 team led by Larry Holmgren moved to 14,200' yesterday, they had some winds around windy corner when they moved yesterday, but moved well and they even picked up thier cache on the way up, which means they are feeling strong.  They are taking a well deserved rest today at 14,200'.

AMS May 25 team led by Todd Tumolo carried to Kahiltna Pass and have cached items this morning and plan to move to 11,000' tomorrow. They will camp at 7,800' today and will enjoy company with AMS 5/26 team.

AMS May 26 team led by Colby Coombs moved to 7,800' early this morning and are settled in and resting in nice weather.  Knowing Colby, I bet they will have quesadillas today for a mid-day snack.

All is well, it's a beautiful day on the mountain.

AMS team setting up camp at 14,200' camp

AMS Team appriaching the base of the fixed lines, aprox. 15,300'

AMS ascending the fixed lines to 16,200'



Climbers on the 16,200 ridge to 17,200 high camp.  This photo taken from a passing aircraft.


AMS climbers on the spectaular 16,200' ridge en route to 17,200', Mt. Foraker and the ALska Range in the background.