Tuesday, June 30, 2015

AMS Denali 6/25 team Update

The AMS 6/25 Denali led by Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Simon Frez-Albrecht team made their cache today and are safe and sound back at 11,000' camp. They had a great day with light snow and no wind as they climbed around Windy Corner. They carried extra food, fuel and equipment to 13,500' where the buried ( aka cached) their items deep in the snow to keep it safe from the weather and the curious and brave ravens.  They made it back in excellent time, 5 hours and 45 minutes. Well done team.

If the weather permits, they will move to 14,200' camp tomorrow.

AMS Team the move to Windy Corner, 12,000' 

AMS just around Windy Corner

At 11,000' camp with the route shown in new snow in midground.

Monday, June 29, 2015

AMS Denali 6/25 Team Update

The 6/25 expedtion led by Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Simon Frez-Albrecht, is doing well. Last night they moved to 11,000' camp in 6 hours and they stopped to pick up their cached food and fuel along the way, they are feeling strong and moving very well.  They have had some snow and light winds and they report that traveling conditions are good. They look forward to moving higher and a working well as a team.


11,000' camp on Denali


Photo courtesy of Paul Roderick: Thunderheads in the Alaska Range 

AMS Custom Denali June 16: Returns!

AMS Custom June 16 Denali team led by Wes Bunch and Jeremiah Phelps has reurned to Talketna!

The team is doing well and are happy to be back in Talkeetna.  They reached a high point of 16,400' and were able to experience the beauty of Denali on the magnificent 16 thousand ridge.

Congratualtions to this hardworking team!

Below are photos from previous AMS expeditions which show you what type of terrain was covered in the past 24 hours.

Evening view looking NorthWest from about 12,000'


AMS team descending from 14,200' camp

AMS Descnding around Windy Corner

Climbers on the Ridge between 16,200' and 17,000' feet

Saturday, June 27, 2015

AMS Denali WB 6/15, Ronczkowski Returns

AMS Custom June 15 Denali expedition led by AMS Guides Noah Ronczkowski, Larry Holmgren and Simon Frez-Albrecht with guest guides Temba Sherpa and Cchering Sherpa, just arrived back at the AMS Headquarters.

Congratulations on a serious job well done!   The team flew to basecamp on June 15, reached the summit June 25 and returned to Talkteetna today. This expedition took 13 days: WOW! They had amazing weather.

Team enjoying orange juice and snacks upon return at AMS HQ

Sorting and drying gear begins!

AMS Guide Noah hanging gear

AMS Denali Team Updates, 6/16 Bunch and 6/25 Gowler

AMS 6/16 Custom Denali with Dr. Jan led by guides Wes Bunch and Jeremiah Phelps checked in from camp at 16,200' this morning.   The Custom Climb is going well. They are moving to high camp, 17,200' today.

2015 AMS Camp at 16K

AMS 6/25 Team led by guides Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Ariel Svetlik-McCarthy camped at  the 7,800' camp at the base of Ski Hill yesterday.  Rob reports that the team got lots of sleep last night.  They carried a cache of food, fuel and extra clothing higher on the Kahiltna Glacier today.

Rob is checking in daily via Delorme In Reach directly to the AMS facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Alaska-Mountaineering-School/143789765673082?ref=hl

Tent set up

Friday, June 26, 2015

AMS Custom Denali WB 6/15, Ronczkowski and Holmgren

AMS Guide Noah Ronczkowski just checked in 14,200 camp.  The team is doing well and are all very happy that the summited.  They plan to be in basecamp tomorrow morning.  We look forward to seeing them tomorrow.

We are proud of the team for their hard work.

Basecamp

Thursday, June 25, 2015

June 15 AMS Custom Expedtion is on the Summit!

Congratulations to the AMS Custom June 15 Denali expedition led by Noah Ronczkowski and Larry Holmgren with guest guides Temba Sherpa and Cchering Sherpa, this team is currently on the top of North America, 20,320'.

If the weather holds, we expect them to return to Talkeetna on the morning of Saturday, June 27. We look forward to seeign them and hearing thier stories.


AMS on the top of Denali, 20,320'

AMS on Denali's Summit Ridge

AMS Denali West Buttress, 6/12 Team, 6/15 Team, and 6/25 Team




AMS Denali West Buttress 6/25 team let by Guides Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Ariel Svetlik-McCarthy had a very busy day.  Early morning briefing with National Park Service.  Returning to AMS headquarters to begin Denali Skill review.

Fixed line demonstration

Guide Rob and Intern Simon set up tent
6/25 Team roping up with gear

Team practice fixed lines

Denali West Buttress 6/12 Team led by Mike Hamill and Jake Kayes have returned.  After a successful summit on June 23 THis team is happy and healthy! Guides Mike Hamill and Jake Kayes were happy to have led such a capable and well prepared team of climbers.  Congratulations !!!

The 6/12 Team enjoying the AMS welcome back snack and drink table

6/12 Team ready to unpack and dry their gear.


Denali West Buttress 6/15,   Ronczkowski reported it is a clear and calm day.  The team is going for the summit.  We wish them lots of luck and quick feet today!

Looking at Denali Pass from 17,200 camp, they will travel up on their climb today.
AMS team nearing the top of Denali Pass, approx. 18,200'







AMS Denali WB 6/25. Gowler departs

Our final  Denali West Buttress expedition of the season  led by AMS Guide Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Ariel Svetlik-McCarthy just left for the airport.   The team had a busy day and was excited to be heading to basecamp.

Guide Rob Gowler has a tradition of taking pizza to basecamp for the first dinner of the expedition. We are sure the team will enjoy dinner.


Rob Gowler is sharing their location at the MapShare web site: http://share.delorme.com/robgowler

We look forward to hearing from the team!

Guide Ariel Svtlik-McCarthy, Sanjay, Guide Rob Gowler,Wes, Justin
Tommy, Tomo, Guide Curtis Green, Saachi

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

6/15: Team and Quick Update - Earthquake and all is well.

We just heard from our June 15 Denali West Buttress team led by Noah Ronczkowski and Larry Holmgren. They are safely at high camp and they report all AMS teams are doing well.

This afternoon Alaska expereinced an had a 5.8 eathquake 75 miles SW of Talkeetna and they felt it on the mountain as well.   Mountain reports say some large chunks of ice fell at a few camp areas on the West Buttress Route,and throughout the Alaska Range, but no injuies or slowing of climbing progress have been reported.

All is well at the AMS HQ as well!


The ridge on the way to high camp
The diving board rock feature at 17,200', high camp

AMS All Denali Teams Update - Incoming, Outgoing and on The Mountain!

We are very happy for all of our teams that we nice weather and sunny skies today.

The AMS 6/6 Denali, West Buttress Expedtion led by  Elliot Gaddy and Jimmy Voorhis have returned to Talkeetna this morning! Welcome back and good work team!

Included on this team is a past AMS student from 2001 (!).  Thanks James for bringing yourself back and and we are honored to have you and your son climbing with us this year.

The Newby Guys taking mountaineering boots off - release the feet!



AMS 6/12 Denali West Buttress Expedition led by Mike Hamill and Jake Kayes are on their way back to 14,200' today and will likely be back in Talkeetna tomorrow.

Night descent between Windy Corner and 11,000' camp, Brian Okonek Photo, use by permission


AMS/ DD Treks 6/15, Custom Denali West Buttress led by Noah Ronczkowski and Larry Holmgren are moving up to 17,200, high camp today.  If all is well they will make a summit attempt tomorrow.
Previous AMS Team on the route on the way to 17,200' camp.


AMS 6/16, Custom Denali West Buttress led by Wes Bunch and Jeremiah Phelps are at 14,200' camp today taking a rest day.

14,200' camp on Denali's West Buttress, AMS photo


AMS 6/25, Denali West Buttress led by Rob Gowler, Curtis Green and Ariel Svetlik-McCarthy are meeting in Talkeetna at the AMS HQ today and are working on equipment checks and lunch food packing this afternoon.

Guide Rob Gowler doing gear check at the AMS HQ



AMS Denali West Buttress 6/12, Hamill Summits!

AMS Guide Mike Hamill checked in from high camp last night.  The team had just returned from the summit.  All were doing well!

We look forward to seeing them back in Talkeetna soon and hearing about the adventure.


Summit picture taken from plane
Past team summit photo at about this time of year.

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

AMS Custom Denali, 6/16, Bunch

AMS team accompanying climber Dr. Jan has made it to 14,200 feet on a clear day on June 23 at 4:00 pm. There is thunder heard in the area, but besides that a beautiful day to be on the mountain. Everyone is doing well and happy to be on Denali. Their plan is to rest tomorrow and then make a carry up higher to the fixed lines, weather permitting, in preparation to keep moving up!

AMS guide Torkelson photo of ascension up the fixed lines with a view of 14K camp in the distance. 

AMS Denali Team 6/12, Hamill

AMS Denali West Buttress Team lead by Mike Hamill and Jake Kayes have arrived to high camp as of June 22 at 7:30 pm on a warm and calm evening, everyone is doing well. Hamill got a view of Gaddy descending after his summit at 6 pm on the same evening. The AMS teams are usually watching out for each other on the mountain. Hamill's team is most likely resting today and planning their potential ascent.



AMS photo from Adam Fabrikant: view of fixed lines from 17K camp, May 2015 

Denali Update, 6/9 Gaddy team SUMMITS!

AMS Denali expedition lead by Elliott Gaddy and Jimmy Voorhis have summited last night at 6 pm on June 22nd. Congratulations to Robbie, Paul, Alex, Blake, James, and Roberto! Gaddy reports that it was a great day to summit: calm winds, blue skies, and warm. So warm that a chocolate bar in a pack melted! This year is an unusually warm year, with thunderheads (cumulonimbus clouds seen during a thunderstorm) seen and heard in the Denali area. The route conditions remain good and everyone is doing well!! The team is hydrating on hot drinks this morning, resting, and gearing up to descend today/tomorrow. Go team go!



AMS Okonek photo, Denali West Buttress Summit Ridge

AMS Adam Fabrikant photo, getting close to summit on Denali West Buttress with amazing views

Monday, June 22, 2015

Denali Update: 6/16 Custom trip, Bunch

AMS 6/16 Denali team lead by Wes Bunch and Jeremiah Phelps with Dr. Jan has made a carry up from 11,200' camp yesterday on the 21st of June. The climbers are acclimatizing as they gain elevation . The temperatures are getting colder, so the climbers will go from night schedule to morning schedule at this point. Dr. Jan and crew are doing well and are glad to be climbing the Great One!

Denali Recreational Forecast
...7 THOUSAND FEET TO 14 THOUSAND FEET...
...WIND SPEEDS LESS THAN 20 MPH ARE NOT INCLUDED...
.MONDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW.
HIGH AT 14 THOUSAND FEET...AROUND 20 ABOVE.
.MONDAY NIGHT...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW.
LOW AT 14 THOUSAND FEET...AROUND 20 ABOVE.
.TUESDAY...MOSTLY CLOUDY. CHANCE OF SNOW. 
HIGH AT 14 THOUSAND FEET...AROUND 20 ABOVE.





AMS photo of leaving 11k camp 

Sunday, June 21, 2015

AMS 6/3 Full West Rib Team-RETURNS!

AMS team lead by Josh Hoeschen and Kai Girard have returned! They all have huge smiles and are feeling accomplished, as they should. We are looking forward to hearing the stories and seeing the photos unravel. What patience they had waiting for 8 days at 7,800' feet! Way to push through mentally and physically guys!


AMS photo of the Rib route

AMS 2015 Full Rib crew: Josh, Chris, Zach, Kai, and Markus enjoying a well-earned meal! 

AMS Denali Team update- Gaddy 6/9 and Hamill 6/12


AMS photo of 16 ridge

AMS photo of 17 camp from the air 
AMS Denali West Buttress 6/9 team lead by Elliot Gaddy and Jimmy Voorhis have moved up to 17,200' camp today on a decent weather day! Everyone is doing well and enjoying the good glacier conditions. Reports from the lower glacier are that it is in excellent condition. Elliot also reported that Hamill's 6/12 team is hoping to go up to high camp tomorrow.

The forecast is looking good for the next couple of days, so hopefully we will see more upward motion. Also check out the latest addition of a basecamp webcam that will be a great assistance for pilots flying in an out of the Kahiltna Glacier.  http://avcams.faa.gov/http://avcams.faa.gov/

McKinley Recreation Forecast:
SUNDAY NIGHT...
LOW AT 17 THOUSAND FEET...AROUND ZERO.
WINDS FROM 17 THOUSAND FEET TO THE SUMMIT...NORTHEAST TO 15 MPH.
.MONDAY...
HIGH AT 17 THOUSAND FEET...AROUND 5 ABOVE.
WINDS FROM 17 THOUSAND FEET TO THE SUMMIT...EAST TO 15 MPH.


Saturday, June 20, 2015

AMS Denali Team Upward Moving Updates

AMS Denali West Buttress 6/9 team lead by Elliot Gaddy and Jimmy Voorhis are at 14,200' camp.  The team is doing well. They have already cached higher up.  As of yesterday and they hope to move up to high camp soon.

AMS Denali West Buttress 6/12 team lead by Mike Hamill and Jake Kayes are at 14,200 camp. The team is doing well. On June 20th they put in a cache to 16,400' on a beautiful day with a little bit of fresh snow. Resting now and hoping to move up soon.

AMS/ DD Treks Denali West Buttress 6/15 team lead by Noah Ronczkowski, Larry Holmgren Simon Frez-Albrecht is moving 14,200 camp today. The team is doing well. They are taking a rest day today.

AMS Custom Denali West Buttress 6/16 team lead by Wes Bunch and Jeremiah Phelps are moving to 11,000' today. They are doing great.



Team setting up kitchen tent at 14,200'


AMS photo of 16k ridge 

AMS Denali West Buttress 6/1, Postle Returns

The AMS June 1 expedition led by Guides Mark Postle, Chelsea Bomba, Chris Welch returned to the green grass and flowers of Talkeetna this morning.

The team got right to work unloading and sorting gear.  The lines were quickly full of drying tents and gear.

We congratulate them on their hard work, team work, and patience!

The June 1 teams' gear drying.
Posing for one last quick photo

Denali Full West Rib 6/3, Hoeschen Summits!

The Denali West Rib Team lead by Josh Hoeschen and Kai Girard reached the summit yesterday! The group is doing well.

We are very proud of the team for their tremendous  effort and commitment to the West Rib.

We look forward to hearing all about the expeditions and seeing great pictures.