Friday, June 3, 2016

AMS Mountain Update as of June 3

As of 6:00 PM Alaska Standard Time: The weather at 17,200' today has been windy and snowing therefore, all AMS teams remained in camp today, and the weather remains unflyable at basecamp.  All teams are doing fine with plenty of food, fuel and are warm and dry in thier tents and in and around camps.
NPS image of the West Buttress Denali route.



AMS 5/17 Denali led by Eric Remza and Jimmy Voorhis are at high camp at 17,200' and are awaiting good weather for a summit bid, they are doing well.

AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon made the move to high camp at 17,200' yesterday.  Today, they are resting and hope for good weather tomorrow for a bid for the summit. 

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch made the move to high camp at 17,200' yesterday in light snow and light winds.  Today, they are resting and hope for good weather tomorrow for a bid for the summit. They report at all is well. 

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Divine sucessfully retrieved their cache of equipment, food and fuel for their Denali Traverse up and over Denali yesterday.  They slept at 17,200 last night and they were doing well. Yesterday it was lightly snowing with light winds at high camp and they hoped to carry and cache their traverse gear up and over Denali Pass today. Exciting times! 


A note about moving to 17,200':   It is a LOT of hard work, not only is the terrain far more exposed then what they have travelled so far, our climbers clip throug a series of anchors and fixed lines along the ridge from 16,300' to 17,000'. The heavy packs and altitude requires the pace to slow down quite a bit, as climbers make their way in an average of eight hours to move from 14,200'. 

Climbers moving up at 16,400', just below Washburn's Thumb.


Veiw from the top side of Washburn's Thumb and Mt. Foraker 17,400'. What a perfect day after fresh snow along the route and throughout the AK Range.


High camp at 17,200'



AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye remain at 14,200' and are doing great.
AMS Climbers and 14,200' camp, Mt. Hunter and the AK Range in the background


AMS custom climb lead by Dustin Eroh are waiting to fly out of Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp, doing well with plenty of food and fuel to wait for better weather.

AMS Denali Prep Course led by Nick D'Allessio stayed in basecamp and learned technical skills yesterday due to snow a snowstorm at basecamp. They plan to move to camp one at 7,800' today.


 AVery busy basecamp photo!  Lots of comings and going and inevitably some waiting happens at Kahilnta Glacier Basecamp, a temporary climbers camp in the middle of the Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve.

AMS 6/1 Denali Team led by Wes Bunch and Chris Welch planned to fly into Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp yesterday are waiting at the AMS HQ in Talkeetna today. They are geared up and ready; and are running through classes on crevasse rescue, glacier travel and camp skills today so they wont miss a beat when they fly in. This is a great team, stay tuned for a team photo!


The June 1 team working on fixed line scention yesterday, an important component to crevasse rescue.



More info to come soon, we don't expect to hear from each team daily, as their main focus is the hard work of climbing and living well; and then absorbing the beauty and all that the big mountains have to offer.  Rest assured that we have a great on-mountain network of climbers and communications if ever an AMS team is in need, assistance is near by.

We are thrilled for all of our climbers and guides, they are playing it smart.  Well done.

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