Saturday, April 30, 2016

AMS Custom Technical Climb, Tumolo

AMS Guide Todd Tumolo checked in from camp.  He and Erin had just returned from climbing Bacon n Eggs on Mt. Hunter.  Earlier this week they summited Ham 'n Eggs.  Todd pointed out that they climbed the "breakfast menu".  Todd and Erin are doing well and are happy with their climbs.

Todd reported that it is windy and snow.  They plan to have dinner and get some rest.  They have a few more days of climbing.  We're looking forward to hearing what they do tomorrow.

Previous team coming down.

AMS Exclusive Offers for 2016

Exciting news, we have two exclusive offers for Denali this spring!

Small Group Denali West Buttress Expedition, June 8-29, 2016: $9,800.00 
A special opportunity to climb Denali with a small well supported team: maximum group size of 4 climbers with 2 guides: ONLY TWO SPACES ARE AVAILABLE

Denali West Buttress Expedition led by Mike Hamill, June 15 - July 6, 2016: $7900.00
Mike is a long time veteran guide and the author of Climbing the Seven Summits. Due to a cancellation, there is a rare opportunity to join Mike on Denali. ONLY ONE SPACE IS AVAILABLE

Please contact us right away, we expect these offers to fill up quickly.

More details can be found on our website: climbalaska.org/denali 

Please contact us at the AMS HQ in Talkeetna, AK via email: info@climbalaska.org or call 1-907-733-1016
Denali 


Friday, April 29, 2016

AMS Team Updates!

AMS guide Pat Ormond and climber Marc have returned to the HQ in Talkeetna!  They successfully climbed Moose's Tooth and then bumped over to SE Fork of the Kahlitna Glacier to explore other options.  They had a great time in the range. Welcome back!

Guide Pat Ormond and Marc, this evening.
AMS Guide Todd Tumolo and Erin are enjoying their time.  Tomorrow they plan to climb Bacon n Eggs on Mount Hunter.  We look forward to hearing form them tomorrow with details of the climb.

Bacon n Eggs climber from previous AMS climb.

AMS Instructor Larry Holmgren leading the 12 Day Mountaineering Course checked in to let us know they are doing well and have completed their technical skill courses.  Tomorrow they plan to move camp and put the new mountaineering skills to work towards peak ascents.

Team Traveling on Glacier

Great News!

AMS is proud to announce that NPS has awarded us one of  6  mountaineering concession contracts authorizing guided mountaineering expeditions within the Denali National Park and Preserve.  The selection process is very competitive.  Our concession contract extends until 2026.
We look forward to climbing with you through 2026 and beyond.
We still have a few spaces left on our upcoming expeditions!  Come join us for  a great experience!

May 11 - June 1        2 SPOTS REMAINING
May 18 - June 8       FULL
May 22 - June 12     1 SPOT REMAINING
May 25 - June 16      FULL
June 1 - June 22       FULL
June 5 - June 26      1 SPOT REMAINING
June 8 - June 29      4 SPOTS REMAINING
June 12 - July 3        FULL
June 15 - July 6        1 SPOT REMAINING
June 25 - July 16      6 SPOTS REMAINING
June 27 - July 18      6 SPOTS REMAINING

Denali Full West Rib, 20,320

22 Days, $8700 with 4 climbers; 2 guides

June 2 - June 24    FULL

NEW! Private expeditions are available, to arrange this trip of a lifetime please  
contact AMS office via 

16,000' Ridge photo by AMS Guide, Josh Hoeschen

Thursday, April 28, 2016

Mountaineering Course - April 24, 2016: 12 day lead by Larry Holmgren

AMS Lead Instructor Larry Holmgren contacted the AMS HQ via the satellite phone, they report all is well:

"12 DAY SPENT THE WHOLE DAY AT THE CRACK MASTERING RESCUE SKILLS AND RAPPELLING.ALL IS WEL."

Crevasse Rescue from previous course

AMS Custom Technical Climb Tumolo and Ormond

They're on top now! 

AMS guide Todd Tumolo with climber Erin at the top of the Moose's Tooth via the Ham 'n Eggs route - it is in good shape this spring. And yes, mobile phone are working from the summit, so these photos are real time. 

Alaska Mountaineering School's second Moose's Tooth ascent of 2016. Thanks to our awesome guide staff! Thanks photos by: AMS guide, Todd Tumolo 




AMS guide Pat Ormond and Marc successfully completed their climb of Moose's Tooth on April 24th.; and yesterday took a flight over to the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to look at and attempt some additional climbs.  We look forward to hearing climber Marc Couper and Guide, Pat Ormond's stories and photos.  We expect to see them back at the AMS HQ tomorrow afternoon.


Tuesday, April 26, 2016

AMS Custom Technical Climb- Tumolo

AMS lead guide Todd Tumolo flew today to the Root Canal in the Ruth Glacier with climber Erin Mai from Anchorage. They are psyched to get in on the action of Ham and Eggs route, which is in prime condition right now. Erin is using this climb as training for a future trip on the Full West Rib later this summer. We are happy to help her meet her awesome goals of climbing in the range.

At AMS headquarters practicing climbing systems while waiting for the glacier flight
AMS guide Todd Tumolo and climber Erin Mai ready to go climbing!

Photo by AMS guide Todd Tumolo on glacier flight in to Root Canal today
Aerial view of Moose's Tooth, Alaska Range, Denali National Park. Photo from AMS archives


Sunday, April 24, 2016

Ormond Custom Climb 4/23 SUMMIT! and Mountaineering Course-12 day Larry Holmgren SEND OFF!


AMS headquarters received a call today from the summit of Moose's Tooth (about 10,300').       AMS guide Pat Ormond and climber Marc have had a successful trip thus-far with a nice high pressure in the are and good climbing conditions. A small section of "snice" but they are doing well. A couple other parties have the same idea and are occupying the Ruth Gorge, but the AK Range has enough for everyone.  We are waiting to hear what else they will explore in the area....
 Nice work guys!


Atop Moose's Tooth on a previous AMS trip

Ruth Gorge-eous, photo from a previous AMS trip


AMS lead guide Larry Holmgren and assistant Jake Kayes headed out today with a group of 4 climbers all currently living in the great state of Alaska. The goal of this twelve day mountaineering course includes flying into the Kahiltna glacier, which they landed in this afternoon, and moving camp 24 + miles down glacier eventually to the Pika glacier. Kahiltna glacier hosts Denali's basecamp, which is at 7,200 feet. This will be a great learning opportunity for roped travel, crevasse rescue, navigating, winter camping, snowpack analysis, etc. The team departed headquarters for the air taxi in good spirits and anticipating an awesome experience in the Alaska Range.

From Left to Right: AMS guide Jake, Chris, Jeremy, Raelene, AMS guide Larry, Tom 

AMS guide Jake briefing students on crevasse rescue before heading on glacier

AMS crew fueled up on a great lunch with a few secret ingredients including homemade dressing and hummus





Saturday, April 23, 2016

Expedition Availability

It has been a busy week here at AMS!  A 9 Day Custom Mountaineering Course returned from the Ruth Glacier.  We launched a climb of Ham & Eggs today.  Instructors are packing for a 12 Day Mountaineering course.

This week we held our Medical Protocols Review.  It has been great to see so many of the AMS guide crew in town.  If you want want to climb with some great guides we still have some open spaces!


May 11 - June 1        2 SPOTS REMAINING
May 18 - June 8       1 SPOT REMAINING
May 22 - June 12     1 SPOT REMAINING
May 25 - June 16      FULL
June 1 - June 22       FULL
June 5 - June 26      1 SPOT REMAINING
June 8 - June 29      4 SPOTS REMAINING
June 12 - July 3        FULL
June 15 - July 6        1 SPOT REMAINING
June 25 - July 16      6 SPOTS REMAINING
June 27 - July 18      6 SPOTS REMAINING

Denali Full West Rib, 20,320

22 Days, $8700 with 4 climbers; 2 guides

June 2 - June 24    FULL

NEW! Private expeditions are available, to arrange this trip of a lifetime please  
contact AMS office via 

Photo by Jake Kayes

Instructor Dave Shuman teaching rigging


Ormond Custom Climb, 4/23

Guide Pat Ormond and climber Marc headed to Ham and Eggs for a Custom Climb today.  They were looking forward to a great adventure!

Ham and Eggs is a classic route of the Alaska Range.  The view from the summit is amazing.  We are looking forward to seeing some great photos.

Marc and Guide Pat Ormond

Thursday, April 21, 2016

Custom Mountaineering Course Returns

AMS Guides Kai Girard, Jake Kayes and team returned from the Ruth Glacier.  The team had a great time.  They reported learning lots of new climbing skills.

They enjoyed fresh fruit, chips and salsa while unloading and sorting gear.

It is nice to see tents on the lines again.

Sorting gear

Drying gear

Tuesday, April 19, 2016

In the Mountains Update- Custom Course- Kai Girard

AMS guide Kai Girard has contacted headquarters to report the crew at the Ruth Glacier for a custom mountaineering course is having a blast! They are keeping busy enjoying the fresh snow in the Alaska Range. Puffy pants and fried cheese are helping to keep the early season cold at bay. The days are lengthening quickly in Alaska, sun setting at about 9:30 pm, so plenty of time to take in the awe-inspiring views. From the Ruth you are able to see Denali amongst other peaks. 



Roped glacier travel

Beauty abounds in the Ruth Glacier

AMS previous participants enjoying a hearty mountain meal and hot drinks.

Friday, April 15, 2016

Expedtion Availability

There are still a few remaining climber postions left on our 2016 Denali expeditions, please contact us ASAP, we'd love to talk with you!

AMS prides ourselves on building strong teams that work well together to reach the collective goals; everyone pitches in to get the work done and everyone has a better climb for it.

All the best to you and yours this climbing season!



May 11 - June 1        2 SPOTS REMAINING
May 18 - June 8       1 SPOT REMAINING
May 22 - June 12     1 SPOT REMAINING
May 25 - June 16      FULL
June 1 - June 22       FULL
June 5 - June 26      1 SPOT REMAINING
June 8 - June 29      4 SPOTS REMAINING
June 12 - July 3        FULL
June 15 - July 6        1 SPOT REMAINING
June 25 - July 16      6 SPOTS REMAINING
June 27 - July 18      6 SPOTS REMAINING

Denali Full West Rib, 20,320

22 Days, $8700 with 4 climbers; 2 guides

June 2 - June 24    FULL

NEW! Private expeditions are available, to arrange this trip of a lifetime please  
contact AMS office via 




Making the move to high camp, aprox 16,700' on Denali's West Buttress route. Photo: Brian Okonek 

Mountain Update

The custom Moutnaineering Course is doing well, and living the dream. They are camped in the deep snow on the Ruth Glacier at 4600' feet and enjoying the spectaular views and learning a lot about glacier travel, crevasse rescue, winter snow camping and soon will be climbing peaks.

Below is a photo of a previous 12 day moutnianeering Course in May, 2015.

Photo Credit: AMS guide and Instuctor: Dustin English

Thursday, April 14, 2016

Custom Mountaineering Course 4/13

Our climbing season begins with a custom Mountaineering Course. AMS Instructors Kai Girard and Jake Kayes had a busy day with their students.  The team is a group of internationally based friends who look forward to learning lots and having a great time.

A short weather delay is often part of the Alaskan climbing experience.  The team flew to the Ruth Glacier this morning!  We look forward to hearing from them.

Instructor Kai Girard, Mike, Patrick, Xavier
Lars, Ben, Instructor Jake Kayes

Friday, April 8, 2016

Expedition Availability

Another busy week here at AMS.  A guided team returned from the Mountain House. Instructors Greg Runyan, John Sykes and Bace Poplawski are packing  to head to the Matanuska Glacier for our first Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue workshop.

There are still a few spots left on our expeditions if you are thinking of joining us!


May 11 - June 1        2 SPOTS REMAINING
May 18 - June 8       1 SPOT REMAINING
May 22 - June 12     1 SPOT REMAINING
May 25 - June 16      FULL
June 1 - June 22       FULL
June 5 - June 26      1 SPOT REMAINING
June 8 - June 29      4 SPOTS REMAINING
June 12 - July 3        FULL
June 15 - July 6        1 SPOT REMAINING
June 25 - July 16      6 SPOTS REMAINING
June 27 - July 18      6 SPOTS REMAINING

Denali Full West Rib, 20,320

22 Days, $8700 with 4 climbers; 2 guides

June 2 - June 24    FULL

Custom expeditions are available starting on or before May 14, and after June 12.  Contact AMS office at info@climbalaska.org  to arrange.

SE Fork & Upper Kahiltna