Tuesday, May 31, 2016

AMS Mountain Update as of June 1

AMS 5/17 Denali led by Eric Remza and Jimmy Voorhis have moved to 17,200', high camp, today and will be resting and rehydrating tonight and plan to rest tomorrow as well. The weather was nice for a move today.

AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon put in a cache at the top of the fixed lines at 16,300' yesterday. They are doing great today and resting a 14,200 camp.

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch have also put in a cache at the top of the fixed lines at 16,300' yesterday. They are resting today and doing well. 

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Divine  
Moved to 17,200' today on a good weather window, tommorrow they will go back down the ridge to retried a previously placed cache of food, fuel and gear and then rest up for their climb ahead.  

AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye are moved to 14,200' camp today and did very well. They are feeling strong and have a great time.

AMS custom climb lead by Dustin Eroh with climbers Crathorne sisters have successfully climbed E Ridge of Mt. Frances today and yesterday they climbed a nother mountain locally called, Control Tower. They have a had a wonderful time and plan to get picked up tomorrow late morning from the glacier to fly back to Talkeetna.

AMS Denali Prep Course / Kahiltna Dome led by Nick D'Allessio is in basecamp enjoying themselves and learning crevasse rescue skills. They plan to climb a local named mountian named Control Tower tomorrow and then begin moving up the glacier to Camp One at 7,800' on Friday. 

AMS 5/23 Custom Denali led by Colby Coombs has returned safely to Talkeetna, they had spectaular climb.

More info to come soon, we don't expect to hear from each team daily, as their main focus is the hard work of climbing and living well; and then absorbing the beauty and all that the big mountains have to offer.  Rest assured that we have a great on-mountain network of climbers and communications if ever an AMS team is in need, assistance is near by.

We are thrilled for all of our climbers and guides, they are playing it smart.  Well done.
AMS real time photo of Denali Prep instructor Nick and climbers Traci and Taka at Kahiltna Basecamp


AMS view from close to 17k camp..getting close to top of North America.

AMS photo of Mt. Frances off the Kahiltna glacier




When the shadows fall on on 14,200' camp and its time for bed! View beyond is Mt. Foraker, 17,400'





A Denali camp move day load: you've got to train for this!

AMS Denali 5/11 led by Larry Holmgren- RETURNS!

Welcome back the green and mosquitos Larry and Jake's team! They endured quite the array of big mountain weather, but everyone has returned last night safe and sound. We call that a success. Great job team!


Monday, May 30, 2016

AMS Denali Prep 5/30 led by Nick - DEPARTS

AMS Denali Prep course led by Nick D'Alessio flew into Kahiltna Basecamp today to begin their trip up Kahiltna Dome. Great small group with eager climbers! 

AMS Denali Prep: starting L Traci Schacht, guide Nick D'Alessio, and Taka Watanabe. Traci has been climbing with AMS for some time now, and all three climbers live in Alaska. Great to see them getting out in the "backyard"
AMS archive photo of lower Kahiltna Glacier

AMS all mountain update

AMS 5/11 Denali Led by Larry Holmgren and Jake Kayes have endured some true mountain weather, they were not able to climb higher due to high winds on the ridge and at high camp. Therefore, they descended late last night and have arrived at Kahiltna Basecamp. They are doing well and are currently waiting to fly out, the clouds are preventing flights in to pick them up. 

AMS Custom Denali 5/17 led by Erik Remza and Jimmy Voorhis are at 14,200' today. They took a day trip to carry their food, fuel and gear for the upper mountain to the top of the fixed lines, cached and returned to 14k camp. They are feeling good and having fun out there. 

AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon have settled into 14,200' camp and retrieved their cache from windy corner today. They plan to travel higher to put in a cache at the top of the fixed lines at 16,300' tomorrow. 

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Devine have settled into 14,200' camp and retrieved their cache from windy corner today. They plan to move higher to put in a cache for high mountain and traverse food, fuel and gear at 16,300' tomorrow. 

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch also have settled into 14,200' camp and retrieved their cache from windy corner today. They plan to travel higher to cache high mountain items at 16,300' tomorrow. 

AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczwski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye are having a good day at 11k camp, they rested and back-carried to pick up the rest of their gear they cached the other day. They are hoping to make a carry upwards to the Windy Corner area tomorrow, everyone is doing well.

AMS custom climb led by Dustin Eroh is doing well. They have a basecamp set-up at Kahiltna Glacier, close to where the Denali basecamp climbers are, and they have their eyes set on east ridge of Frances. They are working on skills in camp today as Kahiltna received about 8 inches of fresh snow last night and the snow conditions need to settle a bit. 
AMS archive photo of Mt. Frances, great looking peak.

AMS guide Tom Torkelson photo of Mount Hunter and the 14,000' glacier plateau,on Denali; view from the fixed lines.

AMS guide Tom Torkelson photo: near Windy Corner, Denali 

More info to come soon, we don't expect to hear from each team daily, as their main focus is the hard work of climbing and living well; and then absorbing the beauty and all that the big mountains have to offer.  Rest assured that we have a great on-mountain network of climbers and communications if ever an AMS team is in need, assistance is near by.

We are thrilled for all of our climbers and guides, they are feeling healthy and playing it smart. Well done.

Sunday, May 29, 2016

AMS Denali Update


AMS 5/11 Denali Led by Larry Holmgren and Jake Kayes have endured some true mountain weather, they were not able to climb higher today due to high winds on the ridge and at high camp. They remain at 14,200' today, tonight they will consider their options.
14,200' camp snow walls and the view up to part of the 16,000' ridge with high winds.  The photo shows spin-drifting snow, demonstrating a windy time time when climbers would be waiting at 14,200' to ascend.
AMS Custom Denali 5/17 led by Erik Remza and Jimmy Voorhis are at 14,200' today. They are feeling good and having fun out there. 


AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon made the moved to 14,200' camp today, they moved well. 

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Devine moved to 14,200' camp today, they are doing great.

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch also moved to 14,200 today, they too, are doing well.

A note about moving 14,200' camp: The first move to 14,200' is always a lot of hard work for everyone while the body is adjusting to the new altitude; these teams did a great job today and all reports from AMS say they ate a nice hot dinner and all are happy.  It seems like these teams will come back with some great stories and an AMS nickname. 
AMS moving up and around from 11,200' camp and towards Windy Corner
AMS Teams rounding Windy Corner

14,200' camp  and looking up to the route ahead; the headwall to the left, ridge and and high camp at 17,200'

14,200' camp and looking south to the Alaska Range and at Mt. Hunter directly ahead.



AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye moved into the 11,200' camp today. They are excited to be moving up and are feeling strong. 
AMS moving up on the upper Kahiltna Glacier from 7,800' camp to 11,200'
AMS Climber with a pack and sled load.
11,200' camp and view looking to the North West.

More info to come on other teams soon, we don't expect to hear from each team daily, as their main focus is the hard work of climbing and living well; and then absorbing the beauty and peace of the big mountains. Please rest assured that we have a great mountain network of climbers and communications if ever an AMS team was in need, help is near by.

We are thrilled for all of our climbers and guides, they are feeling healthy and playing it smart. Well done.

Saturday, May 28, 2016

All AMS Denali Teams Update: Moving


Great news! The winds settled down and all the AMS teams were able to move or carry as needed.  All the teams did great work today, we are happy the weather improved.


Photo of Denali today from Denali State Park, Kesugi Ridge, clear and beautiful day.


AMS 5/11 Denali Led by Larry Holmgren and Jake Kayes made carry of extra food, fuel and equipment up the fixed lines to 16,300' on the ridge.  They will remain camped at 14,200' tonight and move to high camp tommorrow if all is looking good with the weather.   This was a good day for them to acclimatize to higher elevations, they were excited to get moving and are well.


AMS team practicing fixed line ascention on the flats of 14,200'. 
Descending the fixed lines after making a carry of extra food and fuel, aprox 15,500'


AMS Custom Denali 5/17 led by Erik Remza and Jimmy Voorhis have moved to 14,200 today, they were happy to get to higher elevations.


AMS 5/23 Custom Denali led by Colby Coombs moved to 14,200' camp today and will rest there tomorrow.  They are doing well.

AMS setting up camp at 14,200'


AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon made their carry of extra food, fuel and equipment to windy corner today they are doing great. They plan to move up to 14,200' tomorrow.

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Devine carried their extra food, fuel and equipment to 13,500' today at windy corner, they plan to move up to 14,200' camp tomorrow. All is well.

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch carried their extra food fuel and equipment to 13,500' today, they plan to move up to 14,200' camp tomorrow. They are doing well.




Rounding Windy Corner at about 13,600'
AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye made thier carry of extra food fuel and equipment to 10,350' (higher than normal, so they are feeling strong), and plan to move to 11,200' camp tomorrow.  The too, are ding well!





AMS custom climb, 5/28, Eroh

AMS lead guide Dusty Eroh is flying this afternoon to Kahiltna Basecamp with 2 sisters from the UK who are looking to improve their technical skills. First time to Alaska and what a great day to fly! We wish these great ladies a good time. Hot today in Talkeetna, reaching a high of 75 F.

AMS climbers Jimmy and Lucy practicing crevasse rescue at headquarters
AMS headquarters before flying onto the glacier: weighing bags, skis, and emergency rations. 

AMS custom climb: Guide Dusty, Lucy, and Jimmy






Friday, May 27, 2016

All AMS Denali Expedition Update: Holding Steady

AMS 5/11 Denali Led by Larry Holmgren and Jake Kayes remain at 14,200' the winds gusts are still strong at camp and above. They are doing well, just waiting for better weather to get moving upwards. They are eating well and makign the most of each day at 14,200'. 
AMS kitchen time! This is an expedtion photo of AMS guides, Larry Holmgren, (rolling a burrito) and Nate Emerson from 2015 AMS Denali.

Previous AMS Denali Team, happy and ready for dinner in their snow kitchen.

Many AMS teams remain at 11,200' camp, today they got together and had a nice pancake breakfast party in the wind.

AMS Custom Denali 5/17 led by Erik Remza and Jimmy Voorhis are at 11,200', they are still awaiting good weather to move higher and are super posied to move up when the time is right and are doing well.

AMS 5/18 Denali led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon are still camped at 11,200 camp and are hoping to carry to the windy corner area tomorrow, all is well with them.

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Devine are still camped at 11,200' They too are all good.

AMS 5/22 Denali led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch are 11,200' camp today and had a rest day in the wind, all are well.

AMS 5/23 Custom Denali led by Colby Coombs remain at 11,200' today.  They are doing well.

AMS 5/25 Denali led by Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps and Leigh Frye are 7,800'  and all is well with them, they will make a carry of extra food fuel and equipment 9,000', and hope to move to 11,200' the following day. The winds are managable at thier elevation.


AMS Guides Nate Opp and Leighan Falley and Denali team (she's now a glacier pilot at TAT but we miss her!) in an AMS Denali snow kitchen. Love the smiles on these faces!

NPS photo marked with the West Buttress route in red.



Thursday, May 26, 2016

AMS Denali WB 5/25, Ronczkowski

AMS guides Noah Ronczkowski, Jeremiah Phelps, Leigh Frye and team are  flying to the SE Fork of Kahiltna glacier base camp.  The team had a busy day preparing for the flight.

The team was appreciative of the great lunch intern Becca Erdman prepared for them.  She also made sure they had hot pizza for diner at basecamp tonight.

We look forward to hearing from them during their expedition.


Gear check

Noah 

Packing gear

Final lunch food

Becca getting lunch ready

AMS Guides Noah Ronczkowski, Leigh Frye, Sam, Steven,Mathieu
Tomasz, Yuri, Jeff, AMS Guide Jeremiah Phelps in front


Custom Climb 5/22 Girard Returns!

Guide Kai Girard and Markus returned from the Range today.  The climb began with a weather delay but ended great.  They did some climbing on Frances and summited Radio Tower.

They are enjoying the sunshine and swatting at mosquitoes

Kai and Markus enjoying summer

Radio Tower on left photo by Kai Girard

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

AMS 5/24 Custom Denali, Coombs


AMS 5/23 Custom Denali West Buttress team departed yesterday with AMS founder and director Colby Coombs leading the crew. It's noteworthy that Alaska Mountaineering School is the only Denali guiding company that has a director who climbs Denali each season.  We wish this great custom team the best of luck! 

Family photo: AMS Directors Caitlin Palmer, Colby Coombs with their daughter Lisle at the Talkeetna airport, prior to departure with Talkeetna Air Taxi.

Their gear, triple checked, prior to loading the plane.






Mountain Update: all AMS Teams

It was a good day in the Alaska Range. Here are the updates.

AMS 5/11 Led by Larry Holmgren and Jake Kayes are at 14,200' camp, they are doing well and are in camp with snow falling and with some winds.  They have a great camp to be hanging out in. THey hope that the weather will clear so they can carry to 16,200' tomorrow.



Looking down at 14,200' camp and beyond, during a very clear day, camp can be seen in the fore/mid ground as a small collection of tents in the broad snow slope. This photo gives you a great sense of place.  Photo by AMS Guide: Adam Fabrikant
AMS Custom Denali 5/17 led by Erik Remza and Jimmy Voorhis are at 11,200' and are poised to move to 14,200'. They are doing very well.

AMS 5/18 led by Dustin English and Michael Gardner with Team Lebanon and fellow climbers, moved to 11,200 camp today, they traveled well and are all good! They will likely take a rest day tomorrow.

AMS Custom Denali Traverse 5/21 led by Todd Tumolo and Aaron Devine moved to 11,200' camp today from 7,800' camp, they are happy to to be making it higher and are feeling well; they will likely rest tomorrow.

11,200' camp on a clear day, the route upwards is seen clearly on the snow slope, just beyond camp. Photo: Tom Torkelson
AMS Team making their way into 11,200' on a cloudy day, it might look like this today. Photo: Tom Torkelson


AMS Custom Climb 5/22 led by Kai Girard are doing well; they are climbing peaks around base camp and are planning to return to Talkeetna tomorrow.

AMS 5/22 led by Nate Opp and Scott Patch at camped at 7,800, Camp 1 tonight.  They made a carry extra food, fuel and gear to approximately 9,800' today.  If the weather is good, they will move to 11,200' camp tomorrow.

Setting up camp at 7,800', Camp 1, with incoming winds and snow.
AMS 5/23 Custom Denali led by Colby Coombs moved to 7,800', Camp 1, last night.  They are doing well and enjoyed their rest today.  They plan to carry loads upwards tomorrow.

NPS photo marked with the West Buttress route in red.




12 Day Mountaineering Course 5/15, Sykes Returns

The May 12 day Mountaineering Course led by Instructors John Sykes and Chris Welsh returned to sunny Talkeetna today.  The group was happy to return to sunny warm weather and green grass.

They were quick to unload and sort the gear.  They enjoyed fresh fruit and orange juice at the AMS HQ.




Snacks and phones