Thursday, August 17, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 8/16, Bomba

The AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course let by Instructors Chelsea Bomba and Sammie Ellsworth are learning an important rule, have a plan B.  Weather prevented this team from flying into the Alaska Range.  They departed for the Scandinavian Peaks today.  We look forward to hearing from the instructors about their adventure.

Instructor Chelsea teaching fixed line ascension

 Instructor Sammie encourages students on fixed lines

Instructor Chelsea explains how to read weather maps 

Ryan, Iain, Stephanie, Deb,
Instructors Sammie Ellsworth, Chelsea Bomba

Student climbing at Scandinavian Peaks


Sunday, July 30, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba RETURNS!




AMS guide Chelsea Bomba teaching classes on the glacier.

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea, Josh, and Sammie have returned as a team of friends and in good spirits. The group got a lot of skills in, some rock climbing, some ice climbing, and even a few weather days to even everything out. For some, the climbing bug has bit and they are ready to pursue bigger climbs. Fun crew! 

Enjoy the updated photos from this trip taken by Josh Hoeschen: 
AMS students climbing Arapilles

AMS students enjoy nice flat rock summit atop Arapilles 

AMS students on the descent from climbing Arapilles 



AMS student Chris getting creative with ice climbing in a crevasse 

Wednesday, July 26, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba


AMS collection of camp in the Pika 


AMS guides Chelsea and Josh have reported everyone is having fun, albeit the weather is a bit wet right now. They spent the day practicing crevasse rescue, an important skill when traveling on a glacier. The weather is a chance to eat some good food, review skills and good practice in self-care that will be important for any future mountaineering trip in store for these students. 

AMS photo of practicing crevasse rescue, ascending the rope 

Saturday, July 22, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS Instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth reported on 6/22 at 9:47 pm that the team is doing well and are all eager  to learn lots.

The team flew to the Pika Glacier in the Little Switzerland area.  Located 35 miles south of Denali, this area is perfect for learning climbing skills. It is warm and sunny out there right now. The group has moved camp down glacier and is hoping to get some rock climbing in soon.


Pika Glacier photo by Nick D'Alessio


Camp photo by Simon Frez-Albrecht


Belay station photo by Chelsa Bomba


                                     

Thursday, July 20, 2017

12 Day Moutaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

Group photo at the Air Taxi before departing to the glacier 
AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth and team have been vey busy today.  The students met the instructors here at 8:00 AM and have been preparing to fly to the Eldridge Glacier.

As the day progressed the students learned that climbing is a hurry up and wait game. Weather prevented them from departing yesterday.  The team departed for the Pika Glacier this morning!

 Lunch packing 

Instructor Chelsea checks gear

Instructor Josh teaching 

Fixed line ascension
The team enjoying the class

Friday, July 14, 2017

AMS Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren Returns!

AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps, Dylan Miller and team just returned to Talkeetna! They are happy to be back to the green grass, flowers and warm temperatures.  They are looking forward to showers and comfortable beds.  The fresh fruit was a welcome treat.

First order of business boots off!

Unload gear

Snacks


Thursday, July 13, 2017

Update Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren

The AMS 6/25 Denali West Buttress team has arrived at 14K Camp.  The conditions were not suitable for to reach the summit.  Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and team descended to 14 camp last night. They are all doing well and are resting to continue their travels.  We expect the team to return to Talkeetna in the next few days.

Team descending photo by Dustin English

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are doing well, the current conditions are not suitable to head up any further. The team is making plans to descend, but in the meantime are eating well and maintaining camp.  They are getting a true wilderness experience and are all doing well. 


AMS photo of highcamp on Denali in the land of the midnight sun









Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are hanging tight at high camp, using those weather days that are built into the schedule to wait for a chance to go up. There are many conditions the guides have to consider for going up such as wind, avalanche, etc. Everyone is keeping warm, hydrated, well fed and staying busy shoveling the fresh snow out of their tent area.

AMS photo by Dustin English of a team traveling up to 17camp by Washburn's Thumb

AMS photo by Dustin English 17,200 ft camp 

AMS guide Adam with a "snow-cicle" beard. The temps are a bit warmer right now, but they are snowy.

Monday, July 10, 2017

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud: RETURNS!

The crew unpacking and drying gear at AMS headquarters 
AMS students learning different snow anchors: this is mid-process of "work-hardening" the snow to create a snow bollard.

AMS students rock climbing in the Pika, Alaska Range 

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud


returned last night after having a great time in the Pika Glacier, an offshoot of the Kahiltna Glacier. 
They were able to get some rock climbing in, move camp down glacier, practice crevasse rescue, roped travel, and learned a variety of snow anchors, etc. Everyone had a great time!



AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud


AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika under the midnight sun, photo by Alex Stroud

Moonrise over the Pika glacier, photo by Alex Stroud

Lead guide Alex, photo taken by Sam Tyler

Roped travel in the Pika, photo by Sam Tyler

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mountain Update- Curtis Green with Team Hiro returns!

AMS team photo once everyone returned this afternoon


AMS Denali West Buttress Update


Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 7800 camp and waited last night until 2 am for the correct traveling conditions (cool and firm packed snow) on the lower glacier. They have arrived to the upper airstrip today and just now have all returned to AMS headquarters excited to be back and heading for the showers. Everyone is excited they reached the top and had good team dynamics.

FAA weather cam for Kahiltna Bascamp this morning

Recent view of the lower airstrip(used early season) and path to the upper airstrip where planes are currently picking people up. Mt. Foraker in the background. Photo by A. Erickson

View of the green foothills of the Alaska Range on the return flight after seeing only snow for 3 weeks. Photo by A.Erickson

Thursday, July 6, 2017

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller reached highcamp 17,200.  The team is doing well, they are settling in.  They are the only group in camp.

High Camp photo by Mike Janes
Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 11K last night.  They plan to travel to the airstrip tonight, the will be there for an early pickup.  We look forward to seeing them tomorrow weather permitting!

Descending photo by Dustin English

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

AMS Team Updates

Denali West Buttress 6/18, "Team Hiro" led by AMS Guides Curtis Green, Dave Wade, Chris Miller summited at 8:00 PM yesterday.  The team is well and happy, it was a long day. Congratulations to them!
Summit Ridge photo by Adam Fabrikant

Denali West Buttress 6/18,  AMS guides Josh Hoeschen, Chelsea Bomba and team returned to Talkeetna last night.  After a good nights rest they are busy unpacking and sorting gear.   They are happy to be in Talkeetna!


Laying gear out

Doing paperwork and sorting gear

Guides Josh & Chelsea

Denali West Buttress 6/25, led by AMS guides Larry Holmgren and Jeremiah Phelps carried to the ridge today.  They plan to move to high camp tomorrow if the weather looks good.  The team is doing well.

16 Ridge photo by Josh Hoeschen