Wednesday, October 11, 2017

AMS Expedition Availability

AMS office staff has been very busy since our schedule was released.  We are looking forward to the 2018 season. We hope to see you in the spring!

Climbing from 16K, photo by Rob Gowler

Denali, West Buttress, 22 days $8,900, 8 climbers and 3 guides

April 29 - May 20                8 Spaces   
May 4 - May 25                    8 Spaces    
May 6 - May 27                    8 Spaces
May 11 - June 1                     8 Spaces
May 13 -June 3                    8 Spaces
May 18 - June 8                   8 Spaces
May 20 - June 10                8 Spaces
May 25 -June 15                  8 Spaces
May 27 -June 17                  5 Spaces
June 3 - June 24                 8 Spaces
June 8 - June 29                 8 Spaces
June 10 - July 1                    6 Spaces
June 15 - July 6                   8 Spaces
June 17 - July 8                   8 Spaces
June 22 - July 13                          8 Spaces

Denali Full West Rib, 22 days $11,500, 4 climbers, 2 guides 
May 23- June 13

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, 22 days $11,500 , 4 climbers, 2 guidess 
May 8-May 29 

Tuesday, September 19, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 9/1, Kayes: RETURNS!

AMS guides Jake and Sammie return with students this weekend after an extended stay in the Coffee glacier with lots of different kinds of weather and great learning opportunities. The team arrived back to town Saturday evening the 16th, with a couple day delay flight in and out. Flying in and out of the Alaska Range it is common to get delayed, as the planes and pilots are typically flying on Visual Reference only. For some, the more time in the Alaska Range, the better. September is an awesome time to experience the changing of seasons back to winter.
Big thanks to Sammie Ellsworth for the photos of the spectacular Coffee Glacier!

Home sweet home on the Coffee Glacier, basecamp

AMS instructor Jake Kayes

Wednesday, September 6, 2017

Custom Backpacking- Frez-Albrecht 9/3-9/6 RETURNS!

AMS crew has returned from backpacking and saw a little bit of everything! Rain, views of Denali, blueberries, and lots of exercise and fresh air. More photos to come! 

Jason and Marci enjoying a meal on the tundra
Simon showing Jason their route

Enjoying the view

12 Day Mountaineering Course 9/1, Kayes

AMS guides Jake and Sammie reported in briefly today....

saying " Enjoying the Coffee Glacier! We've practiced glacier travel and crevasse rescue, and a bit of avalanche rescue. We are moving camp tomorrow." They have seen a variety of weather and are enjoying the fresh snow that September is bringing.

AMS collection of the Coffee glacier 
If the weather clears, the aurora forecast is very high! Typically a "5" is very good viewing. 

Tuesday, September 5, 2017

Custom Backpacking, 9/5-9/7, Bomba

AMS guide Chelsea, shop dog Jack, and Lisa Breece pause for a photo before driving to the trailhead. 
AMS guide Chelsea Bomba and hiker Lisa Breece headed out today to tackle the Bomber Traverse in the Talkeetna mountains. This is a beautiful and challenging route that goes through tundra, scree, and some dry glacier. They arrived to the trailhead this afternoon after spending the morning discussing logistics and packing. We can't wait to hear the stories!

Jack the AMS dog sharing the love

The traverse area in summertime

The current colors of the flora and fauna

Sunday, September 3, 2017

Custom Backpacking- Frez-Albrecht 9/3-9/6

Off they go! Trail photo by Caitlin Palmer. 
AMS guide Simon Frez-Albrecht and hikers Jason and Marci spent this morning gearing up and preparing for their wilderness hike into the Talkeetnas. Earlier they learned lots of packing tips and tricks, along with safety protocols for how to hike in Alaska. The duo is here from Arizona and are seeing lots of interesting things already. Currently they are driving to the trailhead to start their 4 day hike on trail-less tundra. This area is already dotted with fall color, wild blueberries aplenty, and if the weather cooperates, views of the Alaska Range.

AMS wilderness hiking crew: guide Simon Frez-Albrecht, Marci, Jason

Marci is ready for anything with her full backpack and bear spray! 

AMS collection from last week, photo by Simon Frez-Albrecht. Views of Denali from the Talkeetnas 

12 Day Mountaineering Course 9/1, Kayes

The AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course led by instructors Jake Kayes and Sammie Ellsworth has flown to the Coffee Glacier. As can happen this time of the year their flight was delayed by a day.

The team had a busy first day yesterday gear checking, packing lunches. Instructors Jake and Sammie gave classes fixed line ascension, tents.  Today, while waiting for the skies to clear they had classes building anchors, pulley systems and knots all here at the AMS HQ in Talkeetna.

Will, Claire and Nick are really fun and have been enjoying the classwork, now the are super excited to put these skills all to use in the mountains.

Instructor Sammie demonstrates tent set up.

Sammie teaching anchors.

Instructor Jake teaching 3:1 pulley systems, used in crevasse rescue.

Knots class

Instructors Jake Kayes, Sammie Ellsworth, Nick, Claire and Will

Saturday, September 2, 2017

AMS Film Safety team departs

AMS Team Kirsten Kremer ( Safety) and Rob Gowler (DP) departed the Brooks Range to work on the TV show Life Below Zero for BBC Television aired on National Geographic Channel.  Kristen and Rob drove from Talkeetna to Fairbanks and flew to the location in the Brooks Range today.


Kirsten and Rob, long time friends

Wednesday, August 30, 2017

Safety Consulting 8/30, Coombs

AMS is happy to provide safety consulting for Arctic Slope Regional Corporation with the native communities murre egg cliff collections crew in Point Hope, Alaska.  AMS guides Colby Coombs and Blaine Smith are happy to be visiting Point Hope.

Point Hope photo by Colby Coombs

Common murres breed in colonies at high densities. Nesting pairs may be in bodily contact with their neighbours. They make no nest; their single egg is incubated on a bare rock ledge on a cliff face. Eggs hatch after ~30 days incubation. The chick is born downy and can regulate its body temperature after 10 days. Some 20 days (

Murre egg

Murres on cliff

Tuesday, August 29, 2017

Custom Backpacking, 8/27-8/29 RETURNS!

AMS guide Simon, Sam, and Jake Greenburg
AMS custom backpacking led by Simon has returned after a fantastic 3 days in the Northern Talkeetnas with epic views of the Alaska Range, which includes Denali. The blueberries were ripe for eating and a good time was had by all. Thank-you to Simon Frez-Albrecht for the stunning photos. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course 8/16, Bomba RETURNS!

AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba and Sammie Ellsworth have returned to Talkeetna on Sunday the 27th with a great team of students from the Scandinavian Peaks in the Chugach mountains. Despite some tough conditions, this group covered some miles and practiced lots of great skills, all while keeping a positive attitude. There are many times in mountaineering where the conditions do not cooperate. Learning good decision making, route finding, and positive mental fortitude is key. 

Special thanks to Chelsea Bomba for these great photos: 

Wednesday, August 23, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 8/16, Bomba

The AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course led by Instructors Chelsea Bomba and Sammie Ellsworth 

have checked in and report the group is having a good time. They traveled back into the Scandinavian peaks that 

is near the Matanuska Glacier. They have found some good snow to camp on and are going to attempt Finland 

Peak soon, which rises up 8,947 feet. Although this is not the Alaska Range, it is still a beautiful area of 


AMS photo collection of the Scandinavian Peaks

Thursday, August 17, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 8/16, Bomba

The AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course let by Instructors Chelsea Bomba and Sammie Ellsworth are learning an important rule, have a plan B.  Weather prevented this team from flying into the Alaska Range.  They departed for the Scandinavian Peaks today.  We look forward to hearing from the instructors about their adventure.

Instructor Chelsea teaching fixed line ascension

 Instructor Sammie encourages students on fixed lines

Instructor Chelsea explains how to read weather maps 

Ryan, Iain, Stephanie, Deb,
Instructors Sammie Ellsworth, Chelsea Bomba

Student climbing at Scandinavian Peaks

Sunday, July 30, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba RETURNS!

AMS guide Chelsea Bomba teaching classes on the glacier.

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea, Josh, and Sammie have returned as a team of friends and in good spirits. The group got a lot of skills in, some rock climbing, some ice climbing, and even a few weather days to even everything out. For some, the climbing bug has bit and they are ready to pursue bigger climbs. Fun crew! 

Enjoy the updated photos from this trip taken by Josh Hoeschen: 
AMS students climbing Arapilles

AMS students enjoy nice flat rock summit atop Arapilles 

AMS students on the descent from climbing Arapilles 

AMS student Chris getting creative with ice climbing in a crevasse