Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Update From Our Teams in the Field

AMS guide Elliot Gaddy just checked in moments ago from 11'200 camp on Denali.  The Denali West Buttress team is in camp and all is good.  They back carried today and retrieved their cache from 10,500'.  Back carrying to 10,500' from 11,200' is a shorter day but it does wonders for acclimatization.

Both Mike Hamill (AMS 5/7-5/28) and Kai Girard (AMS 5/4-5/25) are at 14,200 camp Kai's team has made a carry to the 16,200' ridge and a poised for the move to high camp.  They are waiting for the right weather to ensure their summit success.  

AMS 5/14-6/4 with Nate Opp checked in from 7,800' camp yesterday night.  Nate Opp AKA The Operator and Special Opps is guiding with Mike Gardner.  Mike and AMS Guide Jimmy Voorhis put up an impressive new line on the Father and Sons wall last year at this time of year.  The Father and Sons Wall is prominent from the top of Motorcycle hill (just above 11,200' camp).  Check out some more info about their climb here: 
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214067/Denali-Fathers-and-Sons-Wall-Mothers-Day-Variation
Nate and Gardner's team members are going to hear some great stories from an impressive first ascent as they move up the mountain.

Our team locations on Denali
The AMS Advanced Mountaineering Course with John Sykes got a cache of gear flown out yesterday and are planning on traveling down the Ruth to Glacier One.  

The AMS 5/16-5/21 6 Day Mountaineering Course had a huge day of classes yesterday.  They flew onto the Pika glacier at 5:00pm and before bed went through fixed line ascension, campsite selection, probing safe zones, tent setup, stoves and cooking, bombproofing camp and sleeping warm and dry.  The first day on a mountaineering course is a huge brain-dump of skills and knowledge but, don't worry, they've got five days ahead of them to practice those skills and to learn much, much more.
Special Opp cooking up a storm in a typical (extremely nice and well planned out) AMS kitchen setup.  Note the apron; it's the little things that make the trip great

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