Saturday, July 22, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS Instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth reported on 6/22 at 9:47 pm that the team is doing well and are all eager  to learn lots.

The team flew to the Pika Glacier in the Little Switzerland area.  Located 35 miles south of Denali, this area is perfect for learning climbing skills. It is warm and sunny out there right now. The group has moved camp down glacier and is hoping to get some rock climbing in soon.


Pika Glacier photo by Nick D'Alessio


Camp photo by Simon Frez-Albrecht


Belay station photo by Chelsa Bomba


                                     

Thursday, July 20, 2017

12 Day Moutaineering Course 7/19, Bomba

AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba, Josh Hoeschen, Sammie Ellsworth and team have been vey busy today.  The students met the instructors here at 8:00 AM and have been preparing to fly to the Eldridge Glacier.

As the day progressed the students learned that climbing is a hurry up and wait game. Weather prevented them from departing yesterday.  The team departed for the Pika Glacier this morning!

 Lunch packing 

Instructor Chelsea checks gear

Instructor Josh teaching 

Fixed line ascension
The team enjoying the class

Friday, July 14, 2017

AMS Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren Returns!

AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps, Dylan Miller and team just returned to Talkeetna! They are happy to be back to the green grass, flowers and warm temperatures.  They are looking forward to showers and comfortable beds.  The fresh fruit was a welcome treat.

First order of business boots off!

Unload gear

Snacks


Thursday, July 13, 2017

Update Denali WB 6/25, Holmgren

The AMS 6/25 Denali West Buttress team has arrived at 14K Camp.  The conditions were not suitable for to reach the summit.  Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and team descended to 14 camp last night. They are all doing well and are resting to continue their travels.  We expect the team to return to Talkeetna in the next few days.

Team descending photo by Dustin English

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are doing well, the current conditions are not suitable to head up any further. The team is making plans to descend, but in the meantime are eating well and maintaining camp.  They are getting a true wilderness experience and are all doing well. 


AMS photo of highcamp on Denali in the land of the midnight sun









Tuesday, July 11, 2017

Denali Update- 6/25 Holmgren and Phelps

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller are hanging tight at high camp, using those weather days that are built into the schedule to wait for a chance to go up. There are many conditions the guides have to consider for going up such as wind, avalanche, etc. Everyone is keeping warm, hydrated, well fed and staying busy shoveling the fresh snow out of their tent area.

AMS photo by Dustin English of a team traveling up to 17camp by Washburn's Thumb

AMS photo by Dustin English 17,200 ft camp 

AMS guide Adam with a "snow-cicle" beard. The temps are a bit warmer right now, but they are snowy.

Monday, July 10, 2017

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud: RETURNS!

The crew unpacking and drying gear at AMS headquarters 
AMS students learning different snow anchors: this is mid-process of "work-hardening" the snow to create a snow bollard.

AMS students rock climbing in the Pika, Alaska Range 

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud


returned last night after having a great time in the Pika Glacier, an offshoot of the Kahiltna Glacier. 
They were able to get some rock climbing in, move camp down glacier, practice crevasse rescue, roped travel, and learned a variety of snow anchors, etc. Everyone had a great time!



AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud


AMS team exploring the Pika, photo by Alex Stroud

AMS team exploring the Pika under the midnight sun, photo by Alex Stroud

Moonrise over the Pika glacier, photo by Alex Stroud

Lead guide Alex, photo taken by Sam Tyler

Roped travel in the Pika, photo by Sam Tyler

Saturday, July 8, 2017

Mountain Update- Curtis Green with Team Hiro returns!

AMS team photo once everyone returned this afternoon


AMS Denali West Buttress Update


Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 7800 camp and waited last night until 2 am for the correct traveling conditions (cool and firm packed snow) on the lower glacier. They have arrived to the upper airstrip today and just now have all returned to AMS headquarters excited to be back and heading for the showers. Everyone is excited they reached the top and had good team dynamics.

FAA weather cam for Kahiltna Bascamp this morning

Recent view of the lower airstrip(used early season) and path to the upper airstrip where planes are currently picking people up. Mt. Foraker in the background. Photo by A. Erickson

View of the green foothills of the Alaska Range on the return flight after seeing only snow for 3 weeks. Photo by A.Erickson

Thursday, July 6, 2017

AMS Denali West Buttress Update

Denali West Buttress 6/25, Holmgren.  Our last group of climbers led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren, Jeremiah Phelps and Dylan Miller reached highcamp 17,200.  The team is doing well, they are settling in.  They are the only group in camp.

High Camp photo by Mike Janes
Denali West Buttress, 6/16 Curtis.  AMS Guide Curtis Green reported that the team traveled to 11K last night.  They plan to travel to the airstrip tonight, the will be there for an early pickup.  We look forward to seeing them tomorrow weather permitting!

Descending photo by Dustin English

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

AMS Team Updates

Denali West Buttress 6/18, "Team Hiro" led by AMS Guides Curtis Green, Dave Wade, Chris Miller summited at 8:00 PM yesterday.  The team is well and happy, it was a long day. Congratulations to them!
Summit Ridge photo by Adam Fabrikant

Denali West Buttress 6/18,  AMS guides Josh Hoeschen, Chelsea Bomba and team returned to Talkeetna last night.  After a good nights rest they are busy unpacking and sorting gear.   They are happy to be in Talkeetna!


Laying gear out

Doing paperwork and sorting gear

Guides Josh & Chelsea

Denali West Buttress 6/25, led by AMS guides Larry Holmgren and Jeremiah Phelps carried to the ridge today.  They plan to move to high camp tomorrow if the weather looks good.  The team is doing well.

16 Ridge photo by Josh Hoeschen


Tuesday, July 4, 2017

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/4, Stroud

It has been a busy day.  Returning and departing teams, AMS Instructors Alex Stroud  and Sam Tyler kept their group busy packing lunches, checking gear.  After lunch Instructors Alex and Sam taught fixed line ascension. The team just left for the airport for their flight to the Pika. We know they will have a great time!


Gear check
Ben, Caitlin, Daniel, Megan, Instructor Alex Stroud
Tucker, Bryan, Kate, Instructor Sam Tyler

Instructor Sam Tyler checks Bryan's gear

Learning knots




AMS 12 Day Mountaineering Course 6/21, Kayes Returns

Weather prevented this team from flying in as one group. AMS Instructor Stefan Beattie flew back with some students on Sunday night.  The Air taxi returned the final group this morning.  Instructors Jake Kayes, Robin O'Brien and the rest of the crew arrived here this morning.

The group is having a great time as they sort gear and enjoy snacks!

Carter, Instructor Jake, Mark, Instructor Stefan, Barae, Instructor Robin
Jen and Tom

Monday, July 3, 2017

AMS Denali Team Updates

Denali West Buttress, 6/18 led by AMS Guides Josh Hoeschen and Chelsea Bomba at at 14,200 camp. They are on a night travel schedule, the plan is to leave camp around 7:00 PM.  We expect they will return to Talkeetna tomorrow.

Leaving 14 camp, photo by Tom Torkelson

Denali West Buttress 6/16 "Team Hiro" led by AMS Guides Curtis Green and Dave Wade are doing well at high camp.  They report it is windy today. The team is patiently waiting for their summit day.

High Camp
Denali West Buttress 6/25 led by AMS Guides Larry Holmgren and Jeremiah Phelps is doing well. The team single carried to 14,200 camp today. They plan to take a rest day tomorrow. They are enjoying hot drinks and relaxation time.

Team near Windy Corner


Sunday, July 2, 2017

12 Day Mountaineering Course 6/21 Kayes

The 12 day course is due to return from the Pika today.  Lead instructor Jake Kayes called to let us know that the team is fine but the weather is not co-operating.  Bush planes can fly only when the weather is suitable.

http://www.talkeetnaair.com/web-cam, this link will give you the current view of the range.

We are sure the team is making good use of the extra time.

Runway

AMS Denali Updates

Denali West Buttress, 6/18 led by Josh Hoeschen and Chelsea Bomba summited yesterday. It was a long day for the team.  They were thankful that Guide Curtis Green had lots of hot water ready for them.

The truly exciting news from the summit is that Josh ask Chelsea to marry him!
We are excited to see the team return to Talkeetna in soon!

Summit

Guides Chelsea and Josh relaxing at highcamp 2016

Denali West Buttress, 6/16 led by Curtis Green, Dave Wade moved to high camp yesterday. Today will be a well deserved rest day. We're looking forward to updates from them.

 16 Ridge to highcamp photo by Rob Gowler

Denali West Buttress, 6/25 led by Larry Holmgren and Jeremiah Phelps moved to 11,000 yesterday. Today the team will backcarry.

Camp set up photo by Tom Torkelson
All of the teams are doing well!