Merry Christmas

It has warmed up to 13F but it is quite windy and clouds are moving in...we are all hoping for more snow. We will be closed Christmas Day but will reopen on Wednesday at 9:00 AM.
Peace.

The view south from the end of Main Street on the afternoon of Christmas Eve.

The view inside the Fairview Inn; don't know why the tree is upside down...someone said it was mistletoe.

Happy Solstice

Photo by Bradford Washburn

Tonight is the longest night of the year, and tomorrow, Friday is the shortest day. We celebrate with solstice parties and bonfires. Each day thereafter is seconds, then minutes, longer with day light. Quickly the light comes back and before you know it so do the climbers!


Here is our current availability on expeditions.

Denali, Upper West Rib - 21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides
May 3 - 23, 3 spaces available
 June 7 - June 27,    FULL 

Denali, West Buttress

May 6 - May 26     4 spaces available, guide TBA, special ratio: 4 climbers: 2 guides $7900, 21 days

All below climbs will have 6 climbers: 2-3 guides, $6800, 21 days
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2      5 spaces available, guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9      4 spaces available, guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14    6 spaces available, guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16    4 spaces available, guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23      FULL, guided by Todd Passey (wait list available)

June 10 - June 30    FULL, guided by Mike Hamill (wait list available)
June 14 - July 4       4 spaces available, guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7       5 spaces available. guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13     6 spaces available, guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17     FULL, guided by Rob Gowler (wait list available)

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Caribou and Climbing

Rosie and Trixie get a treat of caribou ribs courtesy of Laura. These caribou were hunted off the Denali Highway a few weeks ago. Trixie (on left) who is slightly more wolf than Rosie...waits patiently for her ribs.

 

Expedition Availability

We've added another West Rib Expedition to our lineup!

Denali, Upper West Rib - 21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides
May 3 - 23, 3 spaces availableJune 7 - June 27,    FULL 

Denali, West Buttress
 
May 6 - May 26     4 spaces available, guide TBA, special ratio: 4 climbers: 2 guides $7900, 21 days

All below climbs will have 6 climbers: 2-3 guides, $6800, 21 days
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2      4 spaces available, guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9      4 spaces available, guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14    6 spaces available, guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16    4 spaces available, guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23      1 space available, guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30    FULL, guided by Mike Hamill (wait list available)
June 14 - July 4       5 spaces available, guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7       5 spaces available. guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13     6 spaces available, guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17     FULL, guided by Rob Gowler (wait list available)

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Expedition Availability

It is a beautiful white snowy day here in Talkeetna.  We are busy in the office with phone calls, emails and paperwork for 2013 climbing expeditions.  Now is the time to book your Alaska Expedition for the adventure of a lifetime!

Denali, West Buttress
May 6 - May 26     4 spaces available, guide TBA, special ratio: 4 climbers: 2 guides $7900, 21 days


All below climbs running with 6 climbers: 2-3 guides, $6800, 21 days
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available, guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9       4 spaces available, guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available, guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16     4 spaces available, guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23       1 space available, guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL, guided by Mike Hamill (wait list available)
June 14 - July 4        5 spaces available, guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available. guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available, guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, guided by Rob Gowler


Denali, Upper West Rib
June 7 - June 27,    FULL 
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Nearing the Summit of Denali 20,320'

If you are not ready for a Denali Expedition,  keep in mind that we offer 6 day, 12 day and 15 day Mountaineering Courses, as well as Advanced Mountaineering and a Mountain Guide Course.  There are spaces available in all of them.  So come play in the Alaska Range.

Six Day Mountaineering, $2150

May 14 - 19

June 18 - 23

July 21 - 26

August 18 - 23

September 2 - 7

Twelve Day Mountaineering, $2950 April 22 - May 3 May 7 - 18 June 4 - 15 July 9 - 20 August 3 - 14 September 1 - 12 Fifteen Day Mountaineering, $3300  July 9 - 23.  12 Day Mountaineering with 3 day hike out. Denali Prep, 10 days, $3100 June 2 - 11 Mountain Guides Course, 12 days, $3500 April 17 - 28 Advanced Mountaineering, 12 days, $3500                                           May 1 - 12

All courses are maximum of 9 students, 3 instructors.

Peak Ascent on AMS' 12 Day Mountaineering  Course, Eldridge Glacier

 

New Course and Expedition for 2013!

We will be offering a 4-person Denali Expedition in early May and due to increased interest we have decided to add our Mountain Guides Course in late April.

 Denali West Buttress Expedition

May 6 - 26, 21 days - $7900.00

4 climbers: 2 guides

If you like a smaller group experience and want to be ahead of the crowd, the this might be the expedition for you. Glacier conditions should be excellent and you could have the summit to yourselves.

Mountain Guides Course

April 17 - 28 2013 12 days - $3500.00

6 students: 2 instructors

The Mountain Guide course is designed for individuals who wish to pursue a career in guiding or teaching at AMS or for another mountain guiding organization committed to high standards.  This 12-day course provides an excellent opportunity to learn how to guide clients on Alaskan expeditions and how to teach a mountaineering progression to students.  The course accomplishes this goal in a challenging and remote glaciated environment.  Alaska’s mountains are uncompromising and they present unique demands to the mountaineer. This course provides a platform to launch a career in big mountain guiding.

The advanced nature of this course requires that students have a minimum of 3 years roped climbing experience, know how to belay, build anchors, rappel and be comfortable in exposed locations.  Participants are required to have some experience winter camping.  Participants should be familiar with avalanche mechanics and rescue procedures.  Downhill skiing experience is also recommended.  Though not required, anyone seriously interested in pursuing a career in guiding or outdoor education should also be certified in Wilderness First Responder.

Contact our office for more information. Our winter hours are 9:00 to 5:00 PM Monday through Friday.

Wilderness First Responder Courses

Due to the flooding in Talkeetna this past September our classroom spaces were severely damaged. We will be unable to have the space up and running for the spring Wilderness Medical courses and are sorry we must cancel our sponsorship of the courses. 

However, the courses will still continue to be offered!

We are aware how important these courses are and now there are two excellent instructors offering WFR courses in March and April of 2013. We highly suggest that you contact one of the following instructors for more information and to enroll in their WFR program. In the past the courses have always filled so it is great to have more spaces available.

WFR: March 8-17, $695
WFR Recert: March 22 - 24, $295
Course Location: Talkeetna, AK

http://alaskawildmed.blogspot.com

Taught by Melis Coady, Instructor/Sponsor - Wilderness Medicine Institute of NOLS (WMI)
meliscoady@gmail.com
phone: 907-733-3313
P.O. Box 1123
Talkeetna AK 99676

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WFR: March 23 -31, $625
WFR Recert: April 5 - 7, $275
WFR Recert: April 8 - 10. $275
Course Location: Contact Instructor

Taught by Deb Ajango, Instructor/Sponsor - Wilderness Medical Association (WMA)
 debajango@att.net
phone: 907-696-3490
32789 Cumulus Road
Eagle River AK 99577

Expedition Availability

We've had a flurry of activity with enrollments.  We have also assigned the lead guides on the most of the expeditions. Time to get your applications in!

Denali, West Buttress
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available, Guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available, Guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available, Guided by Nick D'Alessio
May 27 - June 16     4 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23       1 space available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL, Guided by Mike Hamill (waiting list available)
June 14 - July 4        5 spaces available, Guided by Mike Janes
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available. Guided by Josh Hoeschen
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available, Guided by Joey McBrayer
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler
21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 7 - June 27,    1 space available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Climbers on the summit ridge of Denali.

Expedition and Course Availability

EXPEDITIONS

      AMS provides and amazing opportunity for students of mountaineering to travel with and learn from engaging, personable professionals with world-class climbing experience. It truly is a banquet of information and experience for those interested in learning.   S. Kennedy, Denali 2012


Denali, West Buttress
May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available, Guided by Todd Tumolo
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available, Guided by Nate Opp
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available
May 27 - June 16     5 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle
June 3 - June 23       1 space available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL, Guided by Mike Hamill (waiting list available)
June 14 - July 4        5 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler
21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib
June 7 - June 27,    3 spaces available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Foraker, Sultana Ridge, Guided by Melis Coady
May 17 - June 2,   1 space available  
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES

Twelve Day Mountaineering
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2950
April 22 - May 3
May 7 -18
June 4 - 15
July  -20
August 3 -14
September 1-12


Fifteen Day Mountaineering
  ~A new course that combines flying into and hiking out of the Alaska Range!
 9 students, 2-3 instructors, $3300
July 9 - 23, 8 spaces left

Six Day
9 students, 2-3 instructors, $2150
April 28 - May 3
May 14 - 19
June 18 -23
July 21 -26
August 18 -23
September 2 -7

Advanced Mountaineering  ~We only take six students on this course and it does fill up!
 6 students, 2 instructors, $3500
May 1 - 12

Mountain Guides Course ~ A great step to help launch your guiding career.

We offer this course every few years and would like to offer it again. Please contact the office if you are interested in this excellent instructional course.

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This 12-day course provides an excellent opportunity to learn how to guide clients on Alaskan expeditions and how to teach a mountaineering progression to students.  The course accomplishes this goal in a challenging and remote glaciated environment.  Alaska’s mountains are uncompromising and they present unique demands to the mountaineer. This course provides a platform to launch a career in big mountain guiding.

Happy Thanksgiving

The AMS staff wishes you and yours a happy and healthy Thanksgiving. We are very thankful for the friends and neighbors that helped with our recent flooding and even more thankful that the flood alert of last week subsided.

Here's a picture I took at 4:45 PM this evening at the end of Main Street. Due to a down-river ice jam, the moving water backed up toward town. It came within inches of Main Street but luckily receded. The water left behind re-froze...it is almost impossible to walk at the river front now due to these large blocks of ice and the thin shelf ice.

We'll be closed tomorrow and open again on Friday afternoon then again on Monday morning at 9:00 AM. 

~blogger laura

The Alaska Range with an ice jam in the foreground. I'm standing near where most people walk from the end of Main Street to take pictures.

Denali West Buttress Availibility

Denali, West Buttress

May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       4 spaces available
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available

May 27 - June 16     5 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle

June 3 - June 23       1 spaces available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     FULL , Guided by Mike Hamill
June 14 - July 4        6 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler

 

21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Winter Work

We received some more snow yesterday and now there enough to ski! We've also been busy with film support work for a BBC production being shot in Noorvik, Wiseman and Eagle Alaska. These are all remote locations across Alaska. Guides, Josh Hoeschen, Joey McBrayer, Melis Coady and Jeremiah Phelps have been working as camp support, logistics and safety officers.

Former AMS intern, Jeremiah Phelps, cleans up the garage after unpacking from the Noorvik project

Fresh snow and high bush cranberries at AMS HQ

The yurt looks very cozy in the woods. Jeremiah has been staying here the past couple of days.

~Blogger Laura

First Snow and some Office Help

We can now say that ice skating season is officially over and it is time to get out the skis! It has been snowing on and off today as we in the office, process enrollments, answer the phone and emails. I got a little help today from dogs and small children; thanks Trixie and Judy!
~Blogger Laura

Trixie (blue collar) and Judy (in pink) help sort papers...

The sun sets at about 4:00pm these days but we have long twilight.

AMS 2013 Expedition Availability

If you have the fitness, skills and motivation join us for the climb of a lifetime.
  
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“AMS is the best. Their guides are extremely knowledgeable and safety is their highest concern. They made the right decisions and our entire team summited. Being a vegetarian, they made sure that I was fed well, which was amazing considering the limitations and options. Thanks, AMS, for everything.” - Mayur R. Denali 2011

Denali, West Buttress

May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       5 spaces available
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available

May 27 - June 16     5 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle

June 3 - June 23       1 spaces available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Mike Hamill
June 14 - July 4        6 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler

21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib

June 7 - June 27,    3 spaces available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Forker, Sultana Ridge

May 17 - June 2,   1 space available   
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2 guides

AMS Denali climber on the 16,000' ridge of Denali, West Buttress

Denali Photo Workshop Filling Up

Thought we'd give you a head's up that we already have two folks signed up for our Denali Photography Workshop in August and we only take eight students. This is an amazing course with just the right balance of stunning scenery along with top notch photography instruction. The course runs August 18-24, 7 days, $2400.00.

Belly botany and macro photography on the tundra.

From tundra to ice for some action photography.

Expedition Availability

Aconcagua

January 13-31   4 spaces available, Guided by Tom Torkleson

19 Days, $5500, 6 climbers: 2 guides

Denali, West Buttress

May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       5 spaces available
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available

May 27 - June 16     6 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle

June 3 - June 23       3 spaces available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Mike Hamill
June 14 - July 4        6 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler

21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib

June 7 - June 27   3 spaces available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Forker, Sultana Ridge

May 17 - June 2 1 space available   
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2guides

It's quiet in beautiful downtown Talkeetna these days. Ice skating is great right now and nordic skiing is next.

Hollywood in Alaska

From time to time Alaska Mountaineering School gets called on to help with filming in this great state. Seems like it is becoming more frequent~

Tomorrow, AMS guide Joey McBrayer heads to Noorvik, Alaska to work on a BBC production. They are doing a series on Bush Alaska using AMS and our guides for field safety, logistics, camp support and rental equipment.

In late September, Guide Nick D'Alessio helped with a project by Grizzly Creek Films shot in Denali National Park & Preserve.

In early September there was an audition for a commercial involving ice cold beer and climbing. As you can imagine lots of AMS guides applied! And one of them, Joe Butler, got a part in the commercial. Can you find him? Check it out on Youtube!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Coorslight/videos?query=ascent

Meanwhile back here at headquarters on 3rd Street the weather is beautiful; clear and cold at night and ice skating season has begun.

We have received applications for 2013 Wilderness First Responder classes being held late March and early April. These classes will fill up so apply early.

Winter is Here!

It is a brisk day in Talkeetna both in and out of the office. While we are still drying out some damp files from the flood, we are also enrolling folks on courses, expeditions and workshops. We got our first snow over the weekend and I think it might stick around. Always nice to have a white Halloween...

Expedition Availability

It is a beautiful day in Talkeetna. We have clear skies and sunshine! A great change from the last few weeks.

Work continues on the flood damage to the daylight basement of the AMS Mountain Store but it is coming along nicely and we look forward to our renovation.  Here at the main AMS office we are all recovered from the water in our crawlspace and we have some new residents...two cockatiels and a turtle, (flood refugees) they are chattering and splashing in the background.

We are busy working on the 2013 season. It is time to book your 2013 Expedition with AMS, another great climbing season is ahead.

Aconcagua

January 13-31   4 spaces available, Guided by Tom Torkleson

19 Days, $5500, 6 climbers: 2 guides

Denali, West Buttress

May 10 - May 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Larry Holmgren
May 13 - June 2       5 spaces available
May 20 - June 9       5 spaces available
May 25 - June 14     6 spaces available

May 27 - June 16     6 spaces available, Guided by Mark Postle

June 3 - June 23       4 spaces available, Guided by Todd Passey
June 10 - June 30     2 spaces available, Guided by Mike Hamill
June 14 - July 4        6 spaces available
June 17 - July 7        5 spaces available
June 23 - July 13      6 spaces available
June 27 - July 17      3 spaces available, Guided by Rob Gowler

21 Days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

Denali, Upper West Rib

June 7 - June 27   3 spaces available
21 Days, $7900, 4 climbers: 2 guides

Forker, Sultana Ridge

May 17 - June 2 1 space available   
17 Days, $6800, 4 climbers: 2guides

The Webcam does not lie...it's beautiful out today!

Case Study in Hope

This is a great article about Holly Crabtree, a combat wounded veteran on an AMS rafting trip down the Susitna River this summer.  We've been working with the Combat Wounded Veteran Challenge group for several summers are honored and  privileged to do so. I think we learn as much from them as they do from us.


http://www2.tbo.com/news/news/2012/oct/07/namaino1-navy-corpsman-who-was-shot-in-the-head-is-ar-524610/

Holly and Vic Thibeault (Yeti) on the river.

Denali West Buttress Availibility

The flood clean up has not affected our office hours,  we are here Monday - Friday, 9:00AM - 5:00 PM.  Contact us with any questions or concerns you may have.



May 10 - May 30     2 spots available
May 13 - June 2       5 spots available
May 20 - June 9       5 spots available
May 25 - June 14     6 spots available

May 27 - June 16     6 spots available
June 3 - June 23       4 spots available
June 10 - June 30     2 spots available
June 14 - July 4        6 spots available
June 17 - July 7        5 spots available
June 23 - July 13      6 spots available
June 27 - July 17      3 spots available

21 days, $6800, 6 climbers: 2-3 guides

The Clean-Up Cotntinues

Today we have blue sky and it is a good day to dry things out.  The pictures will speak for themselves.  We want to thank all the great people who have pitched in to help!

Drying things out

Ready for the trash

Emptying the church

Caitlin and Chip after a hard da

Flood Update

Rain, rain and more rain was not a good thing for Talkeetna!  The rivers and creeks were very high and Friday brought a evacuation of east and downtown Talkeetna. The Talkeetna river did flood and water is everywhere.  AMS is fine but we are very busy cleaning up.  The Mountain Shop had 4 feet of water in the basement.  The school basement is also flooded.  Pumps are running to remove all this water and friends are pitching in to help with the clean-up! All of the amazing attitudes that make an expedition work have allowed the folks here at AMS to push on with smiles.

Thanks to the hard working volunteers!