The last 12-day mountaineering course of the season, led by Katie McCaffrey and assisted by Tyler Grunstrom, checked in to update us on the fun they are having on the Pika Glacier! They are busy enjoying the warm, sunny weather. They recently climbed the east snow and rock face of Big Arapiles.
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| Crevasse Rescue Practice on the Pika (from AMS archives) Lead Instructor Katie McCaffrey reports that the group has had two back-to-back days of Mechanical Advantage and Crevasse Rescue practice at a headwall near camp. "Lots of theory and hands-on practice! These guys have engineer minds!" They have been lucky with beautiful, clear, sunny weather without precipitation or wind. They enjoyed pizzas for dinner last night and had a group photo shoot showcasing the Royal Tower and Crown Jewel peaks in the background. We look forward to seeing all of their photos when they return! |
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| Photo from 12 Day Mountaineering Course- Lehner June 8th |
The 12 Day Mountaineering Course led by Katie McCaffrey and Tyler Grundstrom has had some good weather days and has taken advantage of it! The group reports that on Tuesday, Alina navigated the group through an icefall up to Exit Pass, where they practiced self-arrests. Yesterday they had a full day of climbing at Hobbit's Footstool. Chillier nights have them making quesadillas and learning the fine points of making hot water bottles to sleep with. All important skills for mountaineering!
We love introducing the local kids to climbing and mountaineering and are always happy to "show them the ropes"! Colby and our intern Matt spent a morning teaching the kids of the Denali Education Center's Summer Camp repelling and rope safety and let them loose on our climbing wall. The favorite part is always when the kids are shown "the candy wall" in our food room- and are allowed to pick out a treat!
The July 15 Mountaineering Course is having fun and getting it done.
Yesterday they traveled out of camp and visited the Trolls and Pirate Ship. They practiced belaying for a view of the glacier below. They had burrito bowls for dinner and the weather is SUNNY!
This morning they were up and out to take advantage of the continued good weather.
The photos below are in the Pika Glacier and were taken on our June mountaineering course. Photo credit: AMS Instructor, Nadine Lehner
The July 9th custom mountaineering course led by Simon Frez-Albrecht has returned from the Pika Glacier after a weather delay! The team enjoyed a mix of weather and lots of learning. The students are now prepared to confidently explore the Alaskan outdoors and commented on the luxury of no pesky mosquitos in the range!
The July 15th 12-day mountaineering course led by Katie McCaffrey and assisted by Tyler Grundstrom flew into the Pika Glacier today after a weather delay. The small but mighty team consists of the two instructors and students, Alina Zankevich, Peter Leffler, and Alan Swenson. While in the Pika, under the majestic "Little Switzerland" peaks, the team will have the opportunity to ice and rock climb, glacier traverse, and experience expedition-style living.
Little Switzerland/Pika Glacier (From June 30th 12 Day Course-Lehner)
The Custom Mountaineering Course led by Simon Fretz-Albrecht has made good use of their nice weather days with an ascent of the Middle Troll and a nice tour of the Pika, with a bit of ice fall navigation practice worked in. But conditions have become a bit blustery and wet, and so the trio have gotten under the cover of the kitchen tent, to focus on learning more about crevasse rescue skills.
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| Tents can become classrooms when the weather takes a turn. (Photo from June 30th 12 Day Course-Lehner) |
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| Barry and Matt on Mt. Sholes |
They are all cleaned up; gear is put away and 'Diplomas' are in hand. That's a wrap on the June 30 12-day Mountaineering Course. We look forward to seeing this crew in the mountains with using their new skills.
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| The four students, Russ, Talal, John and Parker with Instructors Nadine and Ben. |
The June 30 12 Day Mountaineering Course led by Nadine Lehner and Ben Olwell snuck out of the Range last evening and enjoyed a good meal in town. They are back at AMS Headquarters today sorting through their gear and figuring out their next move. They had a mix of weather on the Pika Glacier but were still able to learn a ton.
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| Parker still dressed for the glacier, sorts through gear last night, |
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| Gear sorting and clean-up continue today. |
A Custom Mountaineering Course taught by Greg Runyan and Matt Schiffner just flew out to the Range for four days of learning. They went to Glacier One in the Ruth Amphitheater.
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| Intern Matt Schiffner, Instructor Greg Runyan, and climber, Barry are ready to load the plane. |
A custom mountaineering course led by Simon Frez-Albrecht has landed on the Pika Glacier with students Carrie and Sarah! The team was in great spirits this morning as the sky turned blue and sunshine fell on Talkeetna and the Alaska Range.
The July 3rd six-day mountaineering course led by Colby Coombs has returned to sunny Talkeetna after waiting a night for a weather window! The team enjoyed freshly cut watermelon, sunshine, and some final laughs before heading home.
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| 12 Day-Lehner students and instructors on the Pika Glacier (Photo by Miarco McMillian) |
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| 12 Day-Lehner camp on the Pika Glacier (Photo by Miarco McMillian) 6-Day Mountaineering led by Colby Coombs reported this morning that they had some blue skies on the Ruth and were taking advantage of the break in the weather system by heading down to tour the Gorge!
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| Crevasse rescue practise on the Pika (AMS archive photo) |
Yesterday they practiced fixed line ascension and in-crevasse rescue. The weather is still snowy, but everyone is doing well!
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| Students building the cook tent (from 12 Day Mountaineering-Runyan 6/9/23) |
The 6-Day Mountaineering led by Colby Coombs group made the most of sheets of rain on the Ruth Glacier by holding class in their large cook tent, which they constructed with a long, center table! The rain was punctuated with snow blowing sideways!
This morning they reported that they were moving down the glacier. No more rain! But it was still snowing. This group is getting a real taste of a variety of glacier conditions!
After living in very high winds for the past 48 hours, it’s a calmer morning at the 14,200 camp on the Buttress route this morning.
Both our ❄️ June 12 Expedition led by Brady McGuire and the ❄️ June 15 Expedition led by Simon Frez-Albrecht are descending toward Basecamp (7,200 feet) today.
We look forward to welcoming them back to Talkeetna! Depending on the weather and conditions, that may be later this evening or tomorrow. We have the watermelon ready.
The July 3 six day mountaineering course led by Colby Coombs flew out of Talkeetna on schedule just moments ago. They are heading to the Ruth Amphitheater... a playground of opportunities awaits them in this spectacular setting in the shadow of Denali.
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| Student, Jesse Crow learning fixed line ascension before flying onto the glacier. |
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| Guide Colby Coombs and student, Indi Roderick in the plane and on their way. |
Both AMS Denali Teams called in and are safe and sound at the 14,000-foot camp. They report strong winds and snow. They will wait for it to calm down and hope to leave for Base Camp (7K) later today. We're sure they don't mind the extra rest time after their summit and descent from 17K. This most likely means they will fly out tomorrow, weather allowing.
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| Teams descending from 14K in a storm. (Photo from a 2012 expedition, Rob Gowler) |
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| This is more likely what the teams are doing right now... |
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| As well as eating and drinking some yummy foods. |
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| This image taken from a prior expedition shows the kitchen tent where all can hang out. |
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| Teams are currently at 14,000 ft. camp and will fly out of the 7,200 ft. Camp. Heartbreak Hill is so named because it is a 500-foot uphill climb before you reach Base Camp and your flight home. |
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| Summit Ridge on Denali, this is the final stretch to the highest point in North America. |
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June 15th Denali Expedition with climbers; Jeremy, Julie, Lucie, Gernot, Johanna, and Erich with Guides Simon, Hannah, and Tyler
Possessing noteworthy endurance and patience, they reached the highest point in North America, the summit of Denali, at 20,310 feet / 6,190.5 meters yesterday between 7:45 - 8:45 PM local time.
Everyone made fantastic efforts throughout the day and early hours of this morning. Our climbers returned to camp and slept soundly. They have now packed up their gear, and are climbing down from high camp. They will be greeted at the 14,200-foot camp by AMS guide, Naomi, who is holding down their fort and will give them a warm welcome. They plan to spend tonight at the 14,200-foot Camp tonight and will all make their way to Kahiltna Basecamp tomorrow.
Depending on the weather and climbing conditions - we could see them in back Talkeetna as early as the evening of July 3rd but expect to see them on the morning of July 4th. We look forward to seeing them and hearing their many stories of the climb.
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| Climbing down towards high camp on summit day toward Denali pass. This photo was taken by AMS guide Simon Frez-Albrecht, May 2023 |
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| Miarco and Alex enjoying the beautiful day of climbing on the 10-Day Advanced Alpine Course. |
The 12-Day Mountaineering-Lehner woke up to a beautiful day in camp on the Pika Glacier/Little Switzerland. They have started their classes and are excited for the days to come!
We are all wishing Good Luck to our climbers and guides heading to the summit of Denali today! After a good night's rest, our June 12th Team, led by Brady McGuire & June 15th Team, led by Simon Frez-Albercht, awoke to another beautiful, clear day at 17,200ft. These teams have shown great perseverance during some difficult conditions, to make it to this point. We are all wishing them the very best on today's summit push!
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| Summit Day Photo from AMS archives |
2027 Denali / McKinley, West Buttress Expeditions including an All Women's Team that is only offered on alternate years! Denali / McKi...
