AMS Mountain Update

The weather seems to be improving on the Mountain.

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan took advantage of the weather and are moving to high camp 17,200 feet today.

A team on the 16k ridge en route to high camp: photo by AMS guide Rob Gowler

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are doing classes in 14,200' camp today.


EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht arrived at 14,200' camp yesterday.  They are taking a rest day and Josh and Simon are teaching classes.

AMS Guide Mark Postle teaching knots

AMS Mountain Update

All AMS Denali Teams are at 14,200' camp.  

They are all doing very well.  It has been a snowy day at 14,200'. The teams are looking forward to moving to high camp when their schedule and the weather allows.

More shoveling happened today at 14,200'.  Photo from climber: M.Durand

14,200' camp in the clouds

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan are taking a well-deserved rest day. Activities today included fortifying the camp, and planning for the days ahead. 


June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst, Erica Engle, Alma Johnson slept in and ate french toast and drank lots of coffee and enjoyed a restful day. They are ready to move up when the weather allows.

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are doing well. They are all having fun and enjoying their steady pace upwards. 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht has arrived at 14,200' camp. They are planning on an acclimatization and rest day tomorrow. Strong work team! 

Windy day at 14,200' camp

June 10 Denail Bunch and Seal Team Returns

June 10 Denali West Buttress let by Wes Bunch and Eric Roberts along with Coombs Seal team have returned.  They are happy to be back to the warm weather.  

They enjoyed snacks a little downtime before getting to work sorting gear.

Boots off

Snacks

Sorting gear

AMS Denali Expedition Update June 28

Weather is good on Denali - everyone AMS is doing well and working hard!

June 10 Denali West Buttress let by Wes Bunch and Eric Roberts are descending to 14,200' from high camp today. They are doing well.

AMS descending on the 16,200' ridge

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan arrived at 14,200' camp yesterday.  They took a well-deserved rest day today. 

Camp at 14,200' with high winds aloft.

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst are at 14,200' camp. Yesterday, they left camp mid-afternoon to practice fixed line and running belay skills above camp. Today the team woke early and climbed to the top of the fixed lines at 16,200’. They cached food, fuel, and equipment to use when moving up.

 fixed line practice at 14,200' photo by Tom Torkelson

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters and Sammie Ellsworth moved to 14,200' camp today, they are looking forward to a resting and acclimatizing in camp tomorrow.

View of 14,200' camp and basin, Mt. Foraker, Kahiltna Glacier from 17,200' camp. photo : Adam Fabricant.

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht are settled in at 11,200' camp. They are doing great and working hard.

Camp at 11,200' Snow walls to come! 

June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch and Miltary SEALs Expedition Reach the summit

June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch and Miltary SEALs Expedition reached the summit last night.  The team enjoyed the calm winds and mild temperatures.  Great job team!

They expect them to descend to 14,200 camp today.

Team going for the summit

AMS Denali West Buttress Teams Update

All AMS teams on Denali are doing well.

June 15 Expedition led by Wes Bunch and Miltary SEALs Expedition went for the summit today! We hear it is a great day for it with calm to zero winds and mild temperatures around 10- 15 degrees F. We are looking forward to hearing from them once they return to high camp. They texted us earlier today saying everyone was feeling great. STAY TUNED!

Summit of Denali 20,310 feet, Top of North America - Photo Josh Hoeschen

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch is moving from 11,200', around Windy Corner, to 14,200-foot camp today.

The views during the move from 11,200 to 1,200' are fantastic!

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst. Reached 14 Camp yesterday. Today it was mostly sunny, they look forward to some well-deserved rest and are planning their strategy for the upper mountain.

14,200' camp viewed from about 15,400' Photo: Elias Holt

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis planned to rest at 11,200' camp today, yesterday they carried to Windy Corner. They are doing well!

11,200' camp below climbers moving up!

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen flew to base camp last night.  The team traveled to 7,800' camp. They made very fast time. This is a super efficient and exceptionally strong team. We are stoked to be climbing with them!

This is the 5-mile route between 7,200' basecamp and 7,800' that they traveled early this morning. It takes longer than you expect with the heavy loads of gear, food, and fuel that we take to survive for 22 days on the mountain. 

May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition Returns!

The team led by AMS guides Beth Cleary and Kirsten Kremer They have returned to Talkeetna.  They are happy to be back enjoying fresh watermelon and snacks. they are busy sorting gear.

The team did a great job!  The weather did not cooperate and they spent 17 days at 14,200 camp.  They reached Denali Pass 18,200 feet. 

It was great work!

Enjoying snacks

AMS Mountain Update June 26

Today, AMS teams are doing well at several camps on Denali.

May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition are had a windy descent from high camp, 17,200' yesterday. They are at 14,200' camp today. Massive effort ladies and we applaud your amazing work up there!

AMS photo by guide Elias Holt of 14,200' camp during the summer solstice light

• June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch and the Miltary SEALs Expedition is moving to 17,200' today. This requires navigating the fixed lines and more exposed terrain. Great work team! 

AMS photo by guide Simon Frez-Albrecht of traveling on the 16k ridge

• June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch carried gear and supplies to the windy corner yesterday, approximately 13,300 feet and are resting at 11,200' camp today. 

• June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst. These guys are moving to 14,200' camp today. This section is a day that is not without effort and beautiful views. 

AMS photo collection of teams departing 11,200' camp

AMS photo: Going up! Above 11,200' you switch from snowshoes to crampons

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  June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis is hanging tight at 11,200'. Everyone is doing well. 

AMS 2018 photo by Elias Holt of 11,200' camp with Kathilta Dome in the background

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen had a busy morning of crevasse rescue classes, National Park Service orientation, etc. The flight into the Alaska Range is on a weather hold at the moment with hopes of a clearing. The van is packed and ready to head to the glacier plane air taxi at a moment's notice. These guys are the definition of efficient. 

AMS guide Simon packing loads of Denali packs at AMS Headquarters 

Roped travel practice 

AMS Mountain Update, June 25

AMS Mountain Update, June 25

Today, AMS teams are doing well at several camps on Denali.

May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition are starting their descent from high camp, 17,200'  today. Yesterday they reached their high point at Denali Pass, 18,200'. Massive effort ladies and we applaud your amazing work up there!

AMS climbers beginning the descent from high camp along the exposed ridge at 16,000 feet. 

High camp 17,200' 

June 10 Expedtion led by Wes Bunch and the Miltary SEALs Expedition is hanging tight at 14,200' tonight. This will help with acclimatization and preparedness to move high camp when allows.  

AMS recent photo from intern Makaila Olson from 14,200' camp.

AMS photo of a team caching at windy corner area.

The below 3 AMS TEAMS are on a similar timeline, they are camped at 11,200' tonight. 

• June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch carried gear and supplies to the windy corner today, approximately 13,300 feet. 

• June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst. These guys carried to 14,000' today and are sleeping at 11,200' again to help acclimatize. They are settling in for dinner and well deserved rest tonight. 

• June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis back carried to 9,800' today. Everyone is doing well. 

AMS photo of a previous group caching approximately 10,000' 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen is busy preparing equipment and food for their expedition today at the AMS HQ. The plan is to launch and fly into the Alaska Range tomorrow. It has been gear, gear and more gear followed by bags and bags of carefully packed lunch foods for these guys today.

AMS Mountain Update, June 24

Today, AMS teams are doing well at several camps on Denali.

May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition is at 17,200' they moved up yesterday and are feeling strong.

AMS photo collection: Beautiful views from high on the 16k ridge. 

June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch 
and the 
Military SEALs expedition 
carried gear to the 16,000' ridge today and will sleep at 14,200' tonight to help with acclimatization and preparedness to move to high camp when weather allows. 

AMS photo of the fixed lines as viewed from 14,200' camp 

14,200' Climbers camp and the top of Mt. Hunter.

ALL 3 AMS TEAMS are on a similar timeline, they are camped at 11,200' tonight. 

• June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch

• June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst.

• June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis.

-Yesterday, June 23rd, they reported: "Early this morning we moved from 7,800’ and arrived at 11,200’ camp just in time to set up camp in the sun!" 

-Today, June 24th, they report: "We woke early to cool temperatures and light wind. We descended to pick up our cache and are now relaxing at 11,200' "

June Twelve Day Mountaineering Course: RETURNS!

The twelve-day participants returning eager for fresh food Kalley so kindly set out. 

AMS twelve day mountaineering course has returned today from the Pika glacier after a good trip with a variety of weather;  including snow and rain. Everyone is in good spirits and still had an amazing time. Lots of good lessons to be learned during stormy days in the Alaska Range! The instructors have seen their fair share of weather and I am sure they kept the crew entertained with stories. Now the team has their own stories to share! Thanks to Peter Lavin for the great shots of glacier travel in the Pika. 

AMS recent photo by participant Peter Lavin, learning glacier travel on the Pika Glacier

AMS photo by participant Peter Lavin, glacier travel

AMS photo by participant Peter Lavin, glacier travel 

AMS Denali West Buttress 6/3, Postle Returns!

Guides Mark Postle, Chris Welch and Makalia Olson returned to Talkeetna!  The weather was not great for the climb, they reached 14,200 camp.  They are all happy to be back to the sunshine and green grass.

They were quick to unload and sort gear before enjoying the snacks our intern Kalley set up for the team.

Unloading gear

Snacks 

AMS Mountain Update June 22

ACTION ON DENALI TODAY! Finally some better weather and sunshine.

May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition has moved up to 16,200' camp. This team had planned for a 30-day expedition, and by the looks of it - they will use all of their days!

Camp at 16,200' A view from heaven on earth!

June 3 Expedition led by Mark Postle has decided to descend toward basecamp tonight. They hope to be at base camp for a flight out tomorrow morning. We are excited to see them and welcome them back!

Evening light during the descent from 14,200' - BEAUTIFUL!

Kodiak Navy SEALs Military Training Expedition led by Colby Coombs  had a good day carrying up to 16,200'.

From 14,200' AMS climbers loaded up and ready to move up to higher elevations. Take a good, long look at that pack - that is what it takes.

June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch has moved around Windy Corner to 14,200' camp. Whoop, Whoop!

14,200' Climbers camp and the top of Mt. Hunter.

These 3 teams carried and cached food, fuel and gear at 9800' on the Kahiltna Glacier, tomorrow they plan to move to 11,200' camp.

- June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch

- June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst.

- June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS & Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis.

The massive Kahitlna Glacier where these teams are now.

The 12 Day Mountaineering Course is happy to be seeing blue skies today and are making the most of it - we look forward to seeing them in Talkeetna on Sunday.

Moving Camp on the Pika Glacier akaLittle Switzerland! 

AMS All Mountain Update

The weather is showing signs of improvement but still not good enough to move to high camp - yet.  All teams are doing well, and hoping for clearing conditions to move up tomorrow.

AMS has three teams waiting patiently at 14,200 feet with plans to move up when the weather clears.

14,200' Camp on a clear day

- May 30 Custom Denali Service to Summit - Building Home for Heroes Female Veteran Expedition

- June 3 Expedition led by Mark Postle 

- Kodiak Navy SEALs Military Training Expedition led by Colby Coombs 

This is what everyone on Denali has been dealing with... This current photo shows tents and climber shoveling; keeping ones tents free from snow is a task that has to be done throughout the day and night. If you're thinking of climbing Denali: consider shoveling your neighbor's driveway all winter for training! Photo: Adam Fabricant

The June 10 Expedition led by Wes Bunch carried food, fuel and extra gear to 14,200 camp today, they plan to move upwards tomorrow. They were very happy to be up and out of 11,200' for the day.  This day helps them acclimate to higher elevations and they will feel markedly stronger moving up tomorrow if the weather allows.

Rounding Windy corner in cloudy conditions, the snow is much, much deeper today.

Yesterday three AMS teams flew to basecamp to begin the climb. They did their due diligence with the Talkeetna Hang and were excited to get to base camp yesterday. The teams are traveling on a night schedule,  last night all three teams moved to 7,800 camp.

- June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guide Scott Patch

- June 16 CNYOSM team led by AMS guide Michael Horst.

- June 18 Denali West Buttress Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guide Con Severis.

Glacier travel and low clouds on the Kahiltna Glacier between 7,200 and 7,800' feet.
 

The 12 Day Mountaineering Course is keeping busy on the Pika Glacier, there have plenty to do before they fly back to Talkeetna on Sunday! We look forward to welcoming them back and hearing their stories

Action shot of igloo building, Mountaineering Courses - in addition to climbing they learn snow shelter techniques: quinzhee, snow caves, and igloos too as well if the snow conditions are good for sawing blocks.