Saturday, July 24, 2021

2022 Denali Expedition Availability

Prior planning is a good thing. 

Start training and planning your climbs now for a 2022 Denali Expedition in May or June.



We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of next week.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13,  1 place available

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  


 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 


12-Day Mountaineering Course on the Pika Glacier

 

Sunset on the Pika Glacier 

Students on the 12-day mountaineering course with lead instructor, Chris Miller, and instructor in training, Matt Berry have been busy! They've trad climbed, moved their camp, and focused on classroom learning when the Alaska Range delivered stormy weather. Spirits are high for this end-of-season group. 

Sunday, July 18, 2021

Custom Ski Mountaineering Program Launched!

Deane and Clay, a father-son duo headed to the Pika Glacier with guide Eric Roberts for a couple of days of ski touring. They are celebrating their 26th consecutive month of skiing this month! 

Guide Eric Roberts with Clay & Deane 


2022 Denali Expedition Availability

Denali from the air, we fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi for the majority of our Alaska Range climbs and programs.
 


AMS is thrilled to announce our 2022 Denali expedition dates!  Places are filling more quickly than normal.

We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of July 2021.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000, due to inflation. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13,  1 place available

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  


 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 



Thursday, July 15, 2021

A Beautiful, Sunny Launch Day!

A Beautiful, Sunny Launch Day!

 This morning we sent off a 5 Day Custom Mountaineering Course with instructors Fallon Connolly and Ayla Crosby.  This amazing team of nurses and instructors flew to the Pika Glacier to work on furthering their rock climbing, glacier travel, and mountaineering skills.

Fallon (instructor), Elan, Kayley, Jackie, Ayla (instructor)

This afternoon was bittersweet as we sent off our final 12 Day Mountaineering Course of the 2021 season.  The team was ready to hustle to the Pika Glacier, as Talkeetna was definitely feeling like summer- and they were finding themselves overdressed in their glacier gear. Instructors Chris Miller and Matt Berry seamlessly guided the group through gear checks and packing, and they all departed with big smiles and lots of enthusiasm!


Matt (instructor), Chris, Danny, Lindsay, Liz, Chris (instructor)



Sunday, July 11, 2021

AMS updates from the Alaska Range - sunny day!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2  is doing well and enjoying their time on the glacier. Yesterday, they had a good day and climbed up to a high pass for increased vistas and to plan out their next few days. They planned to be climbing today. 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, Jessica and guide Jeremiah Phelps are very happy for some sun. They will be taking every advantage of the good weather and climbing as much as possible, this small and experienced team is ready for action!

6 Day Mountaineering Course - July 7 is doing well on the glacier, this course has gone by quickly! Instructor Jake Kayes reported last night: "We're doing great! We got 5 inches of snow last night and were treated to sunshine today! We had a busy snow school today and are getting ready to move camp." 

All three AMS teams are at different locations on the Pika Glacier, a glacier tributary that flows into the Kahiltna Glacier, within Denali National Park and Preserve.

Crevasse rescue practice is a key component of our 6 Day and 12 Day courses.  


Denali 2022 Date Release and Availability

Approx 16,800' on Denali's West Buttress


AMS is thrilled to announce our 2022 Denali expedition dates!  

We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of July 2021.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000, due to inflation. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, 2 places available

May 23–June 13, FULL

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  


 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 



Thursday, July 8, 2021

AMS Updates from the Alaska Range

Denali 6/17 - Severis  The break in the weather arrived for the team, and they were flown from basecamp yesterday evening!  This marks the return of our final Denali Expedition of 2021, and we will be sad to say goodbye to Greg, Teddy, Mike, and Brad. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2  Despite some wet weather yesterday, the group hasn't skipped a beat and is making the best of it by having skills classes in their "classroom tent".  They had some clearing last night and today and went out into the surrounding glacier and mountains to enjoy the day! 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, Jessica and guide Jeremiah Phelps are taking in the incredible beauty of the Pika glacier! Today they had a great time ski touring!

Photo by Allen Dahl on the Pika Glacier 2019

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.


6 Day Mountaineering Course - TEAM PHOTO!

The July 7, 6 Day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes, Fallon Connnoly, and Naomi Boyles-Muehleck had an excellent day packing up and getting ready for their course yesterday at AMS. The clouds parted for them and they were able to fly into the Alaska Range to begin their adventure on time!

 

Back Row: Jeff, Instructor: Fallon, Annie, Instructor Naomi, Julie, David, Gabriella, Jackie, Heidi
Front Row: Instructor: Jake and Vance


 

Tuesday, July 6, 2021

AMS Update from the Kahiltna and Pika Glacier - cloudy today

 Denali 6/17 - Severis will spending another night at Kahiltna Basecamp airstrip.  They remain in high spirits, building snow forts and snowmen!  We continue to hope for a break in the weather tomorrow. Talkeetna Air Taxi is closely watching the weather, and has up-to-date weather conditions, so they will pick them up when a safe opportunity becomes available. They are warm and dry and have plenty of food, fuel, and good company. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 is making the most of the wet weather and enjoying their classes and cooking some excellent glacier meals already!

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps are well, they are camped about a mile from the other AMS team on the Pika Glacier and continue to enjoy the glacier mountain life.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Glacier Travel in the clouds. 

Monday, July 5, 2021

Evening Update From AMS - it's a weathery day.

Denali 6/17 - Severis will spending another night in the mountains. It is snowing in the Alaska Range and not safe to fly today. We will hope for a break in the weather tomorrow so we can welcome them back. They have plenty of food, fuel, and good company. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 enjoyed their day traveling on the Pika Glacier (aka Little Switzerland) and they got the hang of roped glacier travel after several miles of travel today. It was raining today but they are in excellent spirits and enjoyed more classes in their camp on the glacier. 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps reviewed skills on the glacier and are enjoying being among the granite peaks on the Pika Glacier. 

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.
AMS Course on the Pika Glacier in self-made luxury snow kitchen! 



AMS UPDATE from Denali, Course, and Custom Climbing Trip

Happy Fourth of July: We wish you a safe a pleasant weekend as you pursue your happiness.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are in good spirits today. Yesterday the wind was very high above high camp. The team made the decision to come down from high camp. Last night they climbed down the Kahiltna Glacier through the night and are now at Basecamp Airpstrip -waiting to fly back to Talkeetna! Currently, they are waiting on the weather to clear. There are some clouds and showers preventing the aircraft from flying right now.

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 flew into the Alaska Range early yesterday morning. They were excited to get the call from the  Talkeetna Air Taxi to fly in on the beautifully clear and calm day. We know this group will have a wonderful course.

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps flew in yesterday morning to the Pika Glacier for 12 days of climbing and orientation to the Alaska Range, to include: glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, and so much more.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.



Mountaineering in the Alaska Range. Photo by Eric Roberts.



Saturday, July 3, 2021

12 Day Mountaineering Course GROUP PHOTO

The July 2 - 12 Day Mountaineering Course began yesterday...with gear check, food packing, fixed-line practice, and the Talkeetna airport shuffle: aka hurry up and wait - which resulted in the "Talkeetna Hang" last night and today. The weather is still cloudy today and the airplanes still have not been able to land on the glacier today. The course is planning on going to take place on the Pika Glacier, which is a tributary of the Kahiltna Glacier, deep within the Alaska Range.

Today they have been busy reviewing skills and classes in Talkeetna today at AMS, and are doing very well. They have been so busy, and are SUCH a nice group!

Instructor Eric with Andrew, Tom, Beb, Parker, Martin, Nicole, Jack, Instructor: Ben
Instructor Katie (sitting)





AMS Denali Teams Update

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen returned from Kahiltna Glacier last night and will be spending the next week or two catching up on their sleep and calories. Congratulations to this wonderful team! 

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well resting at 17,200 feet high camp again today.  The winds have been up and it has been snowing on them a bit, so they are waiting for a good summit day. We are hopeful that tomorrow they will have a break in the weather and that it will be their day!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.
Life and times during a storm system at high camp on Denali: shovel, eat, shovel, hot drinks, read, shovel, hot drinks, sleep, repeat...


Thursday, July 1, 2021

AMS Denali Expeditions Update

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved down to 14,200 this afternoon and plan to rest and reorganize gear there until early in the morning. They plan to descend further tonight and may be at Kahiltna Basecamp tomorrow morning!

Denali 6/15 - Willms returned to Talkeetna this morning, they look really great.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well, they climbed up the headwall / fixed lines and along the ridge between 16,200 feet and 17,200 feet reach high camp today.  It was a beautiful day for this climb upwards.  They plan to rest tomorrow then will make an attempt for the summit when the weather allows.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

High Camp on Denali at 17,200 feet





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