Alaska Range Painting by Leighan Falley, "Yenta Glacier Olives"

 Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2023

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,800.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size:  6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 8–29:  4 places available

May 11–June 1:  4 places available

May 18–June 8:  1 place available

May 22–June 12:  6 places available

May 29 – June 19:  4 places available

June 1–22:  5 places available

June 12 – July 3:  4 places available

June 15 – July 6:  6 places available

Guided Denali, West Buttress Expeditions: Small Team - 2023                                   

These last 2 dates are new offerings for those who are looking for a smaller team size and more of a challenge.  The expedition will consist of single carries below 14,000' and offers a slightly shorter (timewise) expedition climb.  This will necessitate a high level of physical fitness and training.

Expedition price includes; extra-small team size: max of 4 climbers with 2 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$15,800.00 per person, 19 days 

Maximum team size: 4 climbers, 2 guides 

May 15 – June 2: 4 places available

June 5 – 23: 4 places available

 To find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.  

Denali 2023 Availability Update!

 

Alaska Range Painting by Leighan Falley, "Yenta Glacier Olives"

 Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2023

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,800.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size:  6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 8–29:  5 places available

May 11–June 1:  4 places available

May 18–June 8:  1 place available

May 22–June 12:  6 places available

May 29 – June 19:  5 places available

June 1–22:  5 places available

June 12 – July 3:  6 places available

June 15 – July 6:  6 places available

Guided Denali, West Buttress Expeditions: Small Team - 2023                                   

These last 2 dates are new offerings for those who are looking for a smaller team size and more of a challenge.  The expedition will consist of single carries below 14,000' and offers a slightly shorter (timewise) expedition climb.  This will necessitate a high level of physical fitness and training.

Expedition price includes; extra-small team size: max of 4 climbers with 2 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$15,800.00 per person, 19 days 

Maximum team size: 4 climbers, 2 guides 

May 15 – June 2: 4 places available

June 5 – 23: 4 places available

 To find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.  

Denali 2023 Availability Update!

 Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2023

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,800.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size:  6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 8–29:  5 places available

May 11–June 1:  5 places available

May 18–June 8:  3 places available

May 22–June 12:  6 places available

May 29 – June 19:  5 places available

June 1–22:  5 places available

June 12 – July 3:  6 places available

June 15 – July 6:  6 places available

Guided Denali, West Buttress Expeditions: Small Team - 2023                                   

These last 2 dates are new offerings for those who are looking for a smaller team size and more of a challenge.  The expedition will consist of single carries below 14,000' and offers a slightly shorter (timewise) expedition climb.  This will necessitate a high level of physical fitness and training.

Expedition price includes; extra-small team size: max of 4 climbers with 2 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$15,800.00 per person, 19 days 

Maximum team size: 4 climbers, 2 guides 

May 15 – June 2: 4 places available

June 5 – 23: 4 places available

 To find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.   

Denali 2023 Availability Update!

Alaska Range Painting by Leighan Falley, "Yenta Glacier Olives"

 Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2023

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,800.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size:  6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 8–29:  5 places available

May 11–June 1:  5 places available

May 18–June 8:  4 places available

May 22–June 12:  6 places available

May 29 – June 19:  6 places available

June 1–22:  5 places available

June 12 – July 3:  6 places available

June 15 – July 6:  6 places available

Guided Denali, West Buttress Expeditions: Small Team - 2023                                   

These last 2 dates are new offerings for those who are looking for a smaller team size and more of a challenge.  The expedition will consist of single carries below 14,000' and offers a slightly shorter (timewise) expedition climb.  This will necessitate a high level of physical fitness and training.

Expedition price includes; extra-small team size: max of 4 climbers with 2 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$15,800.00 per person, 19 days 

Maximum team size: 4 climbers, 2 guides 

May 15 – June 2: 4 places available

June 5 – 23: 4 places available

 To find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.  

August 12th- Parent Family Backpacking Course has Launched!

Olivia, Maurice, Florence, Emilie and guide Taylor 

 After a morning of packing gear and snacks, Taylor and the Parent family departed Fish Lake by floatplane to arrive at Moonshadow Lake in the Talkeetna mountains.  They will explore the area with hikes and we hope that the girls will succeed in seeing a lot of great wildlife!

August 2, 2022- Beyers' Backpacking Has Begun!

 Guide Aubrey, Andy, Edgar, Guide Deb and Roland

The sky cleared just in time for this wonderful grandfather and grandsons backpacking course to begin!  Flying by helicopter into Diana Lakes in the Talkeetna Mountains will be an experience that they will remember forever.  This will be Roland's 13th adventure with AMS!

7/19-7/30 12 Day Course heads into the field!

 

After a few days of rainy weather and classes in town, the 12-day course led by Simon Frez-Albrecht, Hannah Beutler, and Claire Bicknell is heading out toward the Matanuska Glacier to fly into the Scandinavian Peaks.  

This area is about 20 miles up the Matanuska Glacier in the Chugach Mountains. It's an excellent area to learn glacier travel skills, ice climb, and it has spectacular views.  

July 19th- Teen Backpacking Heads Back out on the Trail after a Resupply at Headquarters!

 

Teens were smiling after all those miles! This custom backpacking team started out with lots of sunshine and then... learned all about camping and backpacking in the rain.  They stayed in town for a well-deserved 2-day break from the rain here in Talkeetna, before heading out again today for their final 5 days.  They enjoyed the chance to dry out their gear, use a grill to cook lunch, and acquire some extra layers and waterproof gloves!  This is such a great group.  The skills they are developing are epic!

 

July 11th- Teen Backpacking Updates!

 

The Northern Talkeetna Mountains and part of the route where they are traveling.

The team checked in to report that they hiked 4.3 miles with an elevation gain of 700ft.  Che and Charlotte led the charge for the group for the day.  Some students and instructors even did a peak ascent south of Caribou Pass!  They are having a blast learning and being challenged.  We can't wait for the next update!

July 4th 6 Day MTC and Teen Backpacking Updates

 

The July 4th 6-day MTC led by Simon, Chelsey, and Claire has returned to Talkeetna in good style.  They had an alpine start this morning and started moving toward the skiway at 3:00am.  They got back to Talkeetna before the Eldridge clouded in and conditions became un-flyable.  They are currently washing and drying equipment and enjoying lots of coffee and snacks.

The 7/1 Teen Hiking Trip led by Fallon, Katie, and Keagan hiked five miles down Soule Creek to the Jack River yesterday and then continued up to Caribou Pass.  There are two big lakes in Caribou pass where they got a resupply of food, fuel, and other essentials from a float plane that met them there. 

They did classes on river crossing and are taking a rest day today. 

All good up here in AK.

 

July 4th, 6 Day Mountaineering Course - doing well

 This team led by Simon Frez-Albrecht is doing well on the Eldridge Glacier. Today they practiced working on cramponing, running pro, fixed lines and a small peak ascent.  Cooking dinner now.  They had a good day!

Climbers with an airplane at the drop point on the Eldridge Glacier where our courses begin. 

Teen Backpacking - checks in again and the weather is great.

The group is making steady progress. Lead instructor, Fallon Connolly texted in late last night: "...hiked 4.5 miles and went over two small passes. Used tripod method to cross E fork of the Jack River." They are enjoying fantastic weather out there as it continues to be warm and sunny with clear views. 

Today they will continue to make progress and hike to a new camp on an alpine lake. Most of their days will be packing up and moving their tents to new wilderness locations during this course. This will provide a next-level foundation of wilderness skills that will last for a lifetime.

The team at their trailhead on July 3rd!

Teen Backpacking - Checks in

Today, the team was able to check-in today via InReach text. They are doing well and are settling into their new routines in the wilderness!. They hiked 4 miles and gained over 1,600 feet in elevation in the trail-less Northern Talkeetna Mountians.  They are texting via satellite, so we won't get any photos until they return! 

The Northernn Talkeetna Mountains and part of the route where they are traveling.

July 4th - 6 Day Mountaineering Course begins!

This team of seven students and three instructors led by Simon Frez-Albrecht had a great start today. They checked gear, packed mountain trail lunch foods, and practiced fixed-line ascension prior to heading off to the airport and flying into the Eldridge Glacier with our friends at Talkeetna Air Taxi. 

Teen Backpacking hits the road!

The Teen Backpacking Course led by Fallon Connolly has begun! This morning, after a tasty breakfast, and a class on pack packing, the team packed their backpacks, filled their water bottles, and loaded up the AMS van to drive to the trail head. They will be spending the next 3 weeks in the Talkeetna Mountains. During this course, they will be re-rationed two times by a small airplane that with land with their food on the tundra. This keeps their pack lighter as they will only have to carry approximately one week of food in their packs during this climb.

Ready to roll!

AMS Instructors; Katie, Fallon, and Keagan

Teen Backpacking begins!

 We have a very special group of teens from North Country Camps and Patagonia Adventures here at AMS today as they prepare for a 21-day backpacking adventure in the Talkeetna Mountains. They spent a very busy day here at the AMS HQ here today, which included: gear check, lunch packing, re-ration drop packing, bear awareness, bear spray usage, route and orientation, and much more! Tonight they will camp here at the AMS HQ and tomorrow they depart for the trailhead.

This is a really fun group and we are so excited for them and this great adventure. 

Updates for our teams -the AMS 2022 Denali season is complete!

  ❄️  June 13 Denali Team  and ❄️  June 16 Team Grace 

Returned yesterday, July 1, from the Alaska Range. They were all tired from their overnight descent to basecamp and very happy to be back. They checked into their hotel and had a short nap, and enjoyed small town Talkeetna yesterday afternoon. The June 13 team will continue to celebrate tonight.

We want to Thak all of our fantastic expedition members and guides for the hard work they put in this year, Denali is a real commitment, both before and during the climb.  After the climb is a special time to reflect on this very special adventure.

The yard at AMS HQ is always full of activity when teams are returning!

Today's News from AMS Teams on Denali - June 30

AMS climbers descend the 16,000-foot ridge.

 ❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch are making their way down the ridge and fixed lines to the 14,200-foot camp today. They plan to rest and reorganize there for a few hours and then continue to descend through the night to Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp & Airstrip. 

❄️  June 16 Team Grace will also descend toward Kahiltna Glacier Basecamp & Airstrip overnight.

Upper Airstrip, Kahiltna Glacier Base Camp in July

We are very excited to welcome back all of our incredible climbers and guides. They will all be very tired and very happy to be back in Talkeetna and among the green trees, showers, and restaurants!

Depending on the weather and conditions on the lower glacier, we could see them all in Talkeetna as soon as tomorrow, Friday, July 1st!

Whoo Hoo! Denali June 13th Team - have a 2nd summit day - June 29

 DENALI 2022 continues to impress - what a really amazing season it has been for climbers. 

The Summit of Denali, 20,310 feet, 6190 meters, is the highest point in North America. 

❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch with climber Rawan and fellow guide Mary stood on the top of North America at approximately 6:14 PM local time! Congratulations! Rawan woke this morning feeling much improved so she and Mary and Chris decide to go for it.  What a superhuman effort these climbers put forth today and we are thrilled for them all.  They had wonderful weather and climbed up in a strong and efficient way.

They are making their way down to the 17,200-foot camp now, and tomorrow they will make their way down to the camp at 14,200 feet.  from there they will band together with 

❄️  June 16 Team Grace to descend toward basecamp. 

Depending on the weather and conditions on the lower glacier, we could see them all in Talkeetna as soon as Friday, July st.

AMS Denali, West Buttress Expedition Update- SUMMIT DAY!

DENALI 2022 continues to impress - what a really amazing season it has been for climbers. 

The Summit of Denali, 20,310 feet, 6190 meters, is the highest point in North America. 

❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch is currently standing on the top of North America! Congratulations! Rawan was not feeling well on the ascent and wisely turned back with guide Mary Gianotti, she is resting and hydrating now at High Camp with Mary and she feels improved, we applaud smart decision-making out there - that is the biggest accomplishment of all. Everyone put in a fantastic effort today and we are so, so proud of them all. What an amazing day.  We could see them in Talkeetna as soon as Friday, July 1st. 

❄️  June 16 Team Grace is waiting at the 14,200-foot camp and plans to descend with the June 13th team to basecamp. The lower glacier is experiencing a good deal of weakening snow bridges and it is still very possible to reach basecamp; it will be the safest option to travel through that area with as many AMS people and guides as possible. When both teams band together they will have a total of 11 people, which is very handy and not too big. They will surely have a lot of fun and an adventure, and we will see them when the time is right. 

AMS Denali Teams Update - June 27

 

Section of the Route along the ridge to Denali's, West Buttress High Camp.

Beautiful light at 17,200 feet above sea level - High Camp on Denali

DENALI EXPEDITIONS

❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch moved to high camp yesterday. This entails climbing up the steeper fixed lines to gain the West Buttress proper to the elevation of 16,200 feet. The route then goes along an exposed and very beautiful ridge line at which point they reach the high camp at 17,200 feet. Today they are taking a well-deserved rest day at high camp, plus the winds are too strong to make a summit attempt so it is all working out for them today.

Previous AMS climbers returning to 14,200' camp. 

❄️  June 16 Team Grace  Made a strong effort to move up yesterday but instead turned back to the 14,200' camp. Yesterday included photos and relaxing in the early afternoon when they returned to camp. Climbing to 14,200 feet on Denali's West Buttress Route is a big accomplishment all its own. Today the team will make plans to climb down to basecamp and we look forward to welcoming this team back to Talkeetna, whenever the time is right. 

AMS Update From The Mountains: Denali and 6 Day Mountaineering Course - June 25

 It's been a very busy couple of days with our returning teams! We apologize for the delay in posts. When it comes to AMS mountain communications - no news really is good news - we promise!

Views from the 14,200' camp walk to "The Edge of the World"a short distance from camp.

DENALI EXPEDITIONS

❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch is doing well. They are enjoying life at 14,200' today and are taking a rest day. Yesterday they climbed up the fixed lines and along the ridge a short way to 16,400 feet, where they cached food, fuel, and gear in anticipation of their move to high camp. If the weather is good, they may move to high camp tomorrow. They are enjoying a very nice weather day up there today.

❄️  June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis moved to high camp and is taking an active rest day today. Today they will descend to pick up previously cached items at the Windy Corner area. Tomorrow they will either rest or climb higher to the top of the fixed lines for an acclimatization day. 

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES 

❄️ June 20th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith has had a fantastic time in the Alaska Range. They are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna around noon today.  the weather seems fine, with a fair bit of wildfire smoke in the air, but is still flyable and stable this morning. We look forward to seeing their photos and hearing their stories. 

Beautiful Views from the AMS camp on the Pika Glacier

 

June 21 and June 22 summer solstice update

 

AMS Kitchen - the AMS kitchen is a universal setup and works well from the Alaska Range to Antarctica!

20,310 feet, Denali's summit on the summer solstice.  Photo from the AMS archives

DENALI EXPEDITIONS

 ❄️  June 6 Denali Team led by Larry Holmgren  Summited Denali yesterday! Congratulations to Larry and Alex,  and what a special day to the summit on the summer solstice, the longest day of the year.  They are making their way down to 14,200 feet today and we look forward to welcoming them back to Talkeetna within the next few days.

❄️  June 9 Team Julie  - Denali led by Colby Coombs descended from 14,200 to basecamp late last night and has returned to Talkeetna safe and sound. 

❄️  June 13 Denali Team  - led by Chris Welch moved to the camp at 14,200 feet yesterday and are doing well.  Today, they descended to pick up their previously cached items at 13,500' feet. They are enjoying a very nice weather day up there today.

❄️  June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis enjoyed the company of fellow climbers at 11,000 and today they carried to 13,500 feet, the Windy Corner area.

MOUNTAINEERING COURSES 

❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly has returned to Talkeetna and had a great time on the Pika Glacier for the past 6 days. 

❄️ June 20th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith is enjoying a beautiful day on the Pika Glacier as they learn about snow camping, snow anchors, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue today.

 

TEAMS RETURNED TO TALKEETNA!

❄️  June 1 - Kodiak Denali Team led by Nate Emerson 

❄️  June 2 - Denali Team (aka Team Queen's Jubilee) Led by Simon Frez-Albrecht 

❄️  June 3 - Badr - Denali led by Brett Carroll  

❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden 

Have all returned to Talkeetna and are settled into their lodging, and shuttles and are all enjoying the summer temperatures, a hot shower, hot food, and green trees.

We were thrilled to see their smiling faces and are so happy for them all they've all had some big adventures out there in the Alaska Range.

Great views on the Kahiltna s the Denali Teams return to Kahitlna Basecamp.