2020 Denali Expeditions ~ Availability Update

2020 Denali Expeditions ~ Availability Update

Our office will be closed Tuesday and Wednesday for the New Year's Holiday. 

The Alaska Range as seen from Talkeetna and the Susitna River

Scheduled Denali West Buttress Expedition 

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

2020 Expedition price includes Denali National Park Denali registration and climber fees, Pre-Climb: 2 nights Talkeetna Lodging, Ground Transport Anchorage to Talkeetna and much more.

May 10–May 31, 5 climber positions available

May 12–June 2, 5 climber positions available

May 14–June 4, 3 climber positions available

May 17–June 7, 6 climber positions available

May 21–June 11, 1 climber position available

May 24–June 14, 1 climber position available

May 31–June 21, 4 climber positions available

June 4–June 25, 5 climber positions available

June 7–June 28, 1 climber positions available 

June 15–July 6, 6 climber positions available

June 17–July 8, 6 climber positions available

Please inquire with our office for custom Denali for your team, we do still have some availability for custom/ private expeditions.

2020 Denali Expeditions ~ Availability Update

2020 Denali Expeditions ~ Availability Update

Our office will be closed Tuesday and Wednesday for the Christmas Holiday. 

Wishing you and yours the best this holiday season.

The Alaska Range as seen from Talkeetna and the Susitna River

Scheduled Denali West Buttress Expedition 

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

2020 Expedition price includes Denali National Park Denali registration and climber fees, Pre-Climb: 2 nights Talkeetna Lodging, Ground Transport Anchorage to Talkeetna and so much more.

May 10–May 31, 5 climber positions available

May 12–June 2, 5 climber positions available

May 14–June 4, 3 climber positions available

May 17–June 7, 6 climber positions available

May 21–June 11, 1 climber position available

May 24–June 14, 1 climber position available

May 31–June 21, 4 climber positions available

June 4–June 25, 5 climber positions available

June 7–June 28, 1 climber positions available 

June 15–July 6, 6 climber positions available

June 17–July 8, 6 climber positions available

Please inquire with our office for custom Denali for your team, we do still have some availability for custom/ private expeditions.

AMS headquarters has lots of snow and cold temperatures so far this winter!

2020 Denali expedition availability update

The Alaska Range does not mess around, our team on Denali. Photo: Rob Gowler

Denali West Buttress Expedition 

Our teams often fill by Christmas - apply soon to get your first choice of dates.

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

2020 Expedition price includes Denali National Park Denali registration and climber fees, Pre-Climb: 2 nights Talkeetna Lodging, Ground Transport Anchorage to Talkeetna and so much more.

Scheduled AMS Denali, West Buttress availability is:

May 10–May 31, 5 climber positions available

May 12–June 2, 5 climber positions available

May 14–June 4, 3 climber positions available

May 17–June 7, 6 climber positions available

May 21–June 11, 1 climber position available

May 24–June 14, 1 climber position available

May 31–June 21, 4 climber positions available

June 4–June 25, 5 climber positions available

June 7–June 28, 1 climber positions available 

June 15–July 6, 6 climber positions available

June 17–July 8, 6 climber positions available

Please inquire with our office for custom Denali for your team, we do still have some availability for custom/ private expeditions.

Expect all types of weather on Denali!
Photo: Tom Torkelson

2020 Expedition Availability

2020 Expedition Availability Report!

AMS photo by guide Rob Gowler: en route to the summit of Denali

Denali West Buttress Expedition 

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

2020 Expedition price includes Denali National Park Denali registration and climber fees, Pre-Climb: 2 nights Talkeetna Lodging, Ground Transport Anchorage to Talkeetna and so much more.

Scheduled AMS Denali, West Buttress expedition availability is:

May 10–May 31, 5 climber positions available

May 12–June 2, 5 climber positions available

May 14–June 4, 3 climber positions available

May 17–June 7, 6 climber positions available

May 21–June 11, 1 climber position available

May 24–June 14, 1 climber position available

May 31–June 21, 4 climber positions available

June 4–June 25, 5 climber positions available

June 7–June 28, 2 climber positions available 

June 15–July 6, 6 climber positions available

June 17–July 8, 6 climber positions available

 

Please inquire with our office for custom Denali for your team, we do still have some availability for custom/ private expeditions.

AMS photo by Rob Gowler
Working as a team to build walls at high camp in preparation for high winds. 

2020 Expedition Availability

AMS Expedition Availability 2020

AMS photo by guide Eric Roberts of the view from being roped with your teammates 

Denali West Buttress, 22 days

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

2020 Expedition price includes NPS climber fees, Pre-Climb: 2 nights Talkeetna Lodging, Ground Transport Anchorage to Talkeetna and more.

 May 10–May 31, 5 spots available

May 12–June 2, 5 spots available

May 14–June 4, 3 spots available

May 17–June 7, 6 spots available

May 21–June 11, 3 spots available

May 24–June 14, 3 spots available

May 31–June 21, 5 spots available

June 4–June 25, 5 spots available

June 7–June 28, 4 spots available 

June 15–July 6, 6 spots available

June 17–July 8, 6 spots available

Expedition Availability

Photo by Rob Gowler of climbers en route to 17,200' camp on Denali's West Buttress, with Mt. Foraker in the background.

AMS Expedition Availability 2020

Denali West Buttress, 22 days

 $11,000, 22 days/Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

 May 10–May 31, 5 spots available

May 12–June 2, 5 spots available

May 14–June 4, 3 spots available

May 17–June 7, 6 spots available

May 21–June 11, 3 spots available

May 24–June 14, 3 spots available

May 31–June 21, 6 spots available

June 4–June 25, 5 spots available

June 7–June 28, 5 spots available 

June 15–July 6, 6 spots available

June 17–July 8, 6 spots available

Expedition Availability

AMS photo of Denali's West Buttress upper mountain. Be prepared for a hard and rewarding climb! 

AMS Expedition Availability 2020

Denali West Buttress, 22 days

 $11,000, 22 daysMaximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

 May 10–May 31

May 12–June 2

May 14–June 4

May 17–June 7

May 21–June 11

May 24–June 14

May 31–June 21

June 4–June 25

June 7–June 28

June 15–July 6

June 17–July 8 

AMS Custom Backpacking: Roland Beyer 25th trip

AMS good friend Roland Beyer completed his 25th annual backpacking trip on August 25 to August 29th in the Talkeetna Mountains with AMS guide Deb Ajango and Aubrey Morrison. They traveled by Talkeetna Air Taxi's R44 helicopter with pilot Danielle Doty. They were greeted by views for days, good weather, managed to avoid the smoke from the local fires and found epic blueberries. The Alaska wilderness delivers once again and we are all grateful to experience it. 

"I cannot believe I have been in my beloved Alaska for the last week. I enjoyed everything immensly. And I do thank you for your planning, logistics, and the actual hike. Everything was just so beautiful. I am super-grateful! "      Dankeschoen, Roland Beyer

Gates of the Arctic: Arrigetch Climbing

AMS photo by Colby Coombs: Alpenglow in the Arrigetch 

AMS custom climbing trip led by Colby Coombs with long-time AMS friend Mark Stier
returned this weekend after a 10-day trip to the wilderness for some fun 5.7 rock climbing and hiking. After rendezvousing in Fairbanks, heading to Coldfoot, they then flew in a bush plane to a remote and beautiful area. Alaska is experiencing warmer than normal temperatures which made for pleasant climbing in August. Colby and Mark climbed Mt. Parabola first followed by Mt. Ariel.

AMS photo of Mark Stier by Colby Coombs: it wouldn't be an Alaskan trip without some bushwhacking through Alder trees.

AMS photo by Colby Coombs, en route to climb Mt. Parabola

AMS photo by Colby Coombs of Mark on a gorgeous day and climb 

AMS photo by Colby Coombs, Mt. Ariel

July 26th Mountaineering Course Update

The weather in Alaska is always unpredictable.  Just when we get used to sunny weather and clear skies, Alaska reminds us of its fickle disposition.  Gentle rain and low clouds have grounded aircraft flying into the range.  Therefore....

July 15 Twelve Day Mountaineering Course - Bomba is ready to fly out and waiting for a weather window.  They are fine and have plenty of food, but they are getting the full Alaskan mountain experience.  We're confident they will have a really good runway packed for the airplane when it arrives!

July 25 Custom Mountaineering Course has regrouped and has gone to Hatcher Pass to travel the Bomber Glacier.  This is a stunning hike to an ideal place to practice and learn skills.

AMS Guide, Jake Kayes and AMS client, Sam Sidiqi

7/25 Custom Mountaineering Course Launch

This July 25 Custom Mountaineering Course plans to fly into the Alaska Range this evening for some one-on-one instruction and adventure!

AMS Guide, Jake Kayes with client, Sam Sidiqi

Waiting to board Talkeetna Air Taxi's Otter and fly to the glacier

July 23 twelve day mountaineering course- Bomba

This 12 day mountaineering course is having a great time! 

Report from Chelsea Bomba:

"Going cragging today! Late start pancake breakfast after taking advantage of the midnight sun and traveling until 1am last night, getting very close to the Kahiltna glacier. Navigation through crevasse fields was the main lesson. 

 The group had a blast exploring the ablation zone (see definition below). We saw some beautiful features and spent a ton of time on crampons.

Finished the day off with lowering them into a crevasse that was wide enough for some ice climbing. 9 mile-ish day from camp round-trip. So far everyone's favorite day."  

AMS photo by guide Allen Dahl of students traveling on the Pika Glacier 

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Ablation Zone

The loss of mass from snow or ice, mostly from melting but also including sublimation, scouring, and other processes.

Ablation is the opposite of accumulation.

While this term can be used with snow or ice the most common use is with glaciers. Glaciers gain mass over the course of a year in the accumulation zone, where the past winters snow does not all melt over the summer. Below a certain elevation, the glacier loses mass because the mass lost exceeds the amount accumulation in winter - this is called the ablation zone. Late in the summer, there is often a distinct line separating the whiter looking accumulation zone above from the darker ablation zone below - this is called the firn line

July 22 report from the 12 day mountaineering course, Bomba

AMS photo from camp on the Pika glacier looking towards Mt. Foraker and Kahiltna glacier 

The 12-day mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl is having a good time out in the Pika glacier with great weather and grand views. They have moved down glacier and set up a top-notch snow camp. They accomplished crevasse rescue class in a scenic spot below a rock feature called "Italy's Boot" 
Tomorrow they will tour further down glacier towards the Kahiltna Glacier to practice cramponing, placing protection, anchors, and probably rappelling and ice climbing. 


Way to go team!

7/19 Report from the Range

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl is reporting that all is well!  They've done two student led walks to Grizzly Pass and up to the Plunger.  Four of the students have had their first ski lesson!  Tomorrow they plan on tackling crevasse rescue.

12 day Mountaineering Course: July 15-26, led by Bomba: LAUNCH!

AMS photo by Amanda Erickson of flying in Denali National Park with a view of the big 3: Foraker, Hunter, and Denali

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl have launched early this morning to the Pika Glacier in Denali National Park for 12 days of winter camping, glacier travel and crevasse rescue learning. Great crew of students from Australia, Canada, and the U.S. Beautiful, clear morning today to fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi. 

AMS course, starting Left: Guide Chelsea Bomba, Brian, Katherine, Josh, Mitch, Sam, Sian, Guide Allen Dahl

Youth Wilderness Backpacking, 7/8, led by Fallon Connolly: RETURNS!

Awards ceremony 

Everyone is excited to be back and enjoying ice cream!

12 day mountaineering course led by Jake Kayes

The mountaineering course scheduled to fly from the Alaska Range today has been delayed due to weather. All is well on the Eldridge Glacier and they will get picked up as soon as they are able to safely.

AMS climber practice 

July 11, YOUTH PROGRAMS - Ice Climbing and Backpacking Updates

Guides Simon and Elias with the Overland Summer Youth Program had fun playing on the Matanuska Glacier ice climbing in a shallow crevasse.

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7/8 Wilderness Backpacking Course for 13-14 year olds led by Fallon Connolly reports that the team made it to Mini Skinny Lake int he early afternoon - today the students led and navigated the way there and they are doing great with their camp cooking skills.  The cooler temperatures are welcome. Tomorrow, they will meet the AMS van at the trailhead  at 2:00 pm at the Beyers Lake Trailhead - and be back at AMS at 4:00 PM for gear clean up, and group closing meetings. Parent pick up is at 6:30 PM  

Photo of Kesugi ridge on a clear day! - the team hiked in the clouds today.

AMS Mountaineering and Hiking Updates

AMS 12 Day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes and Chris Miller practiced digging snow shelters today while taking the time to cook a delicious dinner.

Photo from a previous AMS Mountaineering Course

7/8 Teen Backpacking trip led by Fallon Connolly is reporting that the team of teen hikers is very strong.  They spent some time at the top of Ermine Hill and then trekked the distance to Skinny Lake.