Alaska Range update: AMS Teams - June 30

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic,  is climbing down to Kahiltna Base Camp tonight. Many find that it is a very special move of the expedition; the light overnight is especially beautiful in the mountains, and it's summer in Alaska- it never gets dark!

The descent from 14,200 camp is always done overnight to take advantage of cooler temperatures. A mountain version of an all-nighter! 

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt, is staying at 14,200 tonight. They will revisit their next steps in the morning. Today they packed up camp and climbed to the base of the fixed lines, reaching approximately 15,200 feet, but the move was not in the cards today. 14,200 Camp is a great place to live and rest; the views are beyond spectacular. We wish this wonderful team and all climbers up there the best of luck! 

View from 14,200' Camp, roped climbers leaving camp. Mt. Foraker

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris had a wonderful day climbing Munchkin Peak AND climbing Pirate Ship Pass! We expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow. 

This image is from TODAY! Claire sent it from the route, and there happens to be cell tower service from there - what a treat!

Kaden climbing on the Munchkin!

Update from AMS in the the Alaska Range - June 29

A beautiful day for a summit!

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, summited Denali yesterday!  Thanks to the lovely conditions up high, the team summited and made it safely and soundly back to high camp yesterday evening. They traveled to 14,200 camp today and will be resting there tonight and through the day tomorrow.  They plan to take advantage of cooler night temperatures and faster conditions tomorrow night to make their way to base camp. 

Teams on the fixed lines above 14,200 camp.

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. The team decided to take another day to rest and practice some skills at 14,200 camp while waiting for better weather to carry above the fixed lines.

AMS student cooking in the kitchen tent.

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris  This group is busy learning new skills and putting them into practice on the glacier.  Students are all getting their turn at kitchen duty, and learning the fine arts of camp cooking!

Update from AMS in the the Alaska Range - June 28

An AMS team heading for the summit.

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, awoke to calm, clear skies early this morning and is making a summit attempt today! We have been in touch with teams in the Range and the folks at Talkeetna Air Taxi, and they let us know it has been a clear day at the higher altitudes today. Stay tuned for updates here, and on our Facebook and Instagram pages: @alaskamountaineeringschool

Looking down at 14,200 camp

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. Had another good day at 14,200 camp. They climbed to 15,100 feet and were exposed to that higher altitude, and the terrain to the base of the fixed lines. 

Taking a break from camp building on the Pika Glacier

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris Had a sunny day on the Pika Glacier and moved their camp up the glacier to above the glacier landing area. More climbing and adventures are in store for this intrepid team.

AMS Alaska Range Update- June 27

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, is doing well on their rest day at high camp, 17,200 feet. They are hydrating and eating as much as they can to prepare for their summit day attempt. The weather will dictate when they can give it a shot. Because of the high altitude, it is normal to move very slowly on summit day, and it can be difficult to stay warm in adverse weather, so the weather has to be pretty good to make a summit attempt. They have the time to wait, if they want. As one can imagine, high winds on the upper mountain are a common hazard, so the team will work together to build snow-block walls to protect their camp.

Wall building "party" at High Camp, 17,200' 

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. Had a good day at 14,200 camp. It was a very snowy day today, and even so, they descended to 13,500 to retrieve their previously cached items and returned to camp at 14,200 in good form. They are working hard up there and really are enjoying the gorgeous views for this new camp.  Next steps for them are to carry and cache up the fixed lines to 16,200' or higher. As always, climbing is weather-dependent. 

Snowy/ cloudy day at approx. 13,500, Windy Corner

14,200' Camp, Mt. Foraker, prominently in the background

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris: Had a fun day ice climbing and rappelling in the rain in Little Switzerland (aka the Pika Glacier). This team of highly motivated folks is making the most of their time in the Alaska Range. We are so excited for them all!

Ice Climbing on Glacier ice!

AMS Teams - Alaska Range Update- June 26

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, moved to High Camp today. This requires: packing up camp at 14,200', climbing up the fixed lines to 16,200', and along the exposed ridge line to 17,200' to set up high camp on a broad plateau. They planned a rest day tomorrow and, if the weather allows and they are feeling strong, they will attempt the summit on Sunday, June 28th.

This picture was taken on June 9 from an earlier expedition and shows the 16K ridge with a climber en route to high camp.

The June 16th Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. TODAY: The team moved to 14,200 camp! YESTERDAY: the team carried to 13,500' to put in a cache. This day doubles to lighten the pack for move day and to expose everyone's bodies to a higher altitude for acclimation. 

This aerial photo shows the route above 11,000 feet toward Windy Corner.

This image is from last week at the 14,000 feet camp.

The June 19th Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin with climbers Wes and Chloe, has returned to Talkeetna. They are very happy after staying really busy in there! Yesterday they climbed the Dragon's Spine! Photos to come!

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris: Yesterday, they rock climbed on The Hobbit's Footstool, and TODAY they climbed a mixed snow/ Rock route on the Peak nicknamed The Plunger.

Student on the Plunger route (AMS archive photo)

The June 22nd, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi is doing very well! Today they climbed a peak nicknamed Hersey's Kiss and, on the Air Taxi's advice, have returned to Talkeetna to avoid 4 days of un-flyable weather. The team will gather for the final day of instruction at the AMS HQ tomorrow, and several of the team will camp out in our student campaign area for the night. 

Taken today! Students climbing on a peak nicknamed Hershey's Kiss. (Photo by Guide Tyler Thompson)

John and some of the tools of the trade.

Instructor Isabel Masi rocking flipflops after a week in boots

Watermelon awaits all returning climbers.

Alpine Rock Climbing Returns!

 The Alpine Rock climbers with Instructor Tali Levin returned after an adventurous and rewarding climbing and learning experience on the Pika Glacier. We are looking forward to Chloe's photographs from the course. She had a large and heavy camera with her, and never complained.

Chloe and gear.

Tali hangs tents to dry.

Rope flaking and drying.

Wes back in flip-flops.

Updates from the Alaska Range - June 25

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic spent yesterday at 14K with prep class for the carry up the fixed lines.  They did get some snow, but not too much.

Today, if they are feeling well rested and the weather is good, they will carry gear up to the 16,400-foot ridge and return to the 14K camp. 

Climbers on the fixed lines about the 14K camp. (Photo taken June 17 from a prior AMS expedition)

Climbers atop the fixed lines near a cache. Mount Foraker in the background. (AMS archive image.)

The June 16th Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt spent some time shoveling the foot of snow that fell on them at 11,000-feet. Today, if the weather allows, they will make a gear carry to the 13,500 cache site and return to 11,000 feet. Climb high and sleep low is how you acclimate. Making small elevation gains helps your body (blood, lungs, and oxygen) acclimate to the altitude.

This image is from an expedition just last week. It shows the 11K camp with Kahiltna Dome and Mount Foraker in the distance. It never really gets dark this time of year.

The June 19th Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin with climbers Wes and Chloe: Yesterday they practiced advanced crevasse rescue skills. The morning weather was not conducive to climbing.  Later, when it cleared up, they did a glacier tour to look at the Granite Glacier basin. The nice weather is drying out the rock for later climbing.

A gap near The Trolls that looks out to the Granite Glacier basin (AMS Photo, 2017)

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris had a Snow Skills day: Self-arrest, fixed line ascension and running pro. After that, they climbed a pass near a feature known as Guard Tower near The Throne.

Students practicing self-arrest. (AMS archive photo)

Know you knots and pulleys!

There are many places to explore in the Pika Glacier. Hence, it is called "Little Switzerland."

The June 22nd, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi is doing well on the Eldridge Glacier. They practiced a lot of CR and GT

Today they are moving camp to the Nunatak and hope to find some ice climbing this evening!

A nunatak in an Inuit word referring to the summit or ridge of a mountain that protrudes from an ice field or glacier that otherwise covers most of the mountain or ridge. The glaciers in the Alaska Range can be up to 3000 feet thick.

Students on the Nunatak in the Eldridge Glacier (AMS archive photo)

AMS Alaska Range Update - June 23 - some snow and rain

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, descended to 13,500 feet today to pick up previously cached food, fuel, and equipment. They are fortifying their camp at 14,200 feet, as the weather has moved in, but not severely. Ben reports that the temps are fairly warm and that everyone is in very good spirits. They will carry and cache higher, above the fixed lines, when the weather allows.

14,200 camp

The June 16th Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt, is living the Alaska Range dream at an 11,000-foot camp, in a snowstorm today. This actually works well as a rest day. The weather is predicted to be snowy today and tomorrow, with some clearing on Thursday and Friday. The forecast always changes, so they will take advantage of opportunities to carry and then move higher when they can. All is going well with this positive team.

The whole team gets out for shoveling camp in a storm, gotta get it done!

The June 19th Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin with climbers Wes and Chloe, Yesterday: climbed a route peak called the Hobbit's Footstool. They got all their climbing done before a summer rainstorm in the afternoon. This team has great timing! Today: They had a skills day in and around their camp due to the weather. Hands-on classes included building snow anchors, crevasse rescue, rock rescue, and load transfers.  All is well.

Sunny day climbing in Little Switzerland (on a very sunny day!)

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris moved camp to 5,200 feet on the Pika Glacier today. This takes many hours to break down and set up camp, and they will move camp a few times to get the systems worked out. They moved in overcast weather this morning, and now they report afternoon rain, and currently, evening snowfall.  

Ice climbing out of a crevasse on the Pika Glacier

The June 22nd, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi is doing well on the Eldridge Glacier. They covered some ground school, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue courses today. They also saw rain early, which then turned to snow in the afternoon. They are doing well in a gorgeous location!

A popular first peak ascent we nicknamed "Hershey's Kiss" near our camp on the Eldridge Glacier. 

AMS Alaska Range Update - June 22

The June 16 Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, moved to the 14,200-foot camp in the early morning hours. They enjoyed gorgeous light and firm climbing conditions.  They made good time traveling from 11,000 feet to their new home away from home. They will spend several nights at 14,200, acclimating, eating, hydrating, and organizing equipment. 

June 16: Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt, retrieved their cache from 9,300 feet in the early hours and are now back in the 11,000-foot camp. They are really enjoying the gorgeous views from camp and are settled in. If the weather allows, they will carry and cache at the Windy Corner area tomorrow.

 Image and Route overlay courtesy of Denali National Park Service. 

June 19 Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin , had a great day yesterday. They climbed a fun route on a granite peak named The Munchkin. This is a great first climb in the Little Switzerland Area.  

Views of Little Switzerland

Weston and Chloe send an extra shout-out and good wishes to their fathers for Father's Day!! 

June 20, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris enjoyed more of Little Switzerland today, they moved camp (which is a lot of packing and logistics), and covered avalanche curriculum. Another Great Day in the Alaska Range!

Ice climbing and crevasse rescue hands-on learning and practice on the Pika Glacier!

June 22, 6 - Day Mountaineering Course begins!

The June 22, 6 Day Mountaineering Course, with Annette, John, Kailyn, and Jeremy, led by Instructors Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi, has begun!

After a busy day of gear checks, lunch packing, and practicing knots and fixed-line ascention, the team weighed and loaded their gear and headed to the Talkeetna Airport. This is a well-organized and efficient team! They flew in early with Talkeetna Air Taxi and landed on the Eldridge Glacier at just over 5,000 feet for this 6 Day Course. 

Instructors Tyler, Isabel, and students Annette, John, Jeremy, and Kailyn

Jumping for Joy!

June 8th Team has returned to Talkeetna!

Welcome back and massive congratulations to the June 8th Expedition, with climbers Monika, Rafal, Bryce, Elad, Frank, and guides Tate Hughes, Emma Russell, and Nick Bakken-French! 

Talkeetna Air Taxi picked them up from Kahiltna Basecamp this morning, and they have been busy eating watermelon and other snacks while they organized their gear and did some group chores to wrap it all up. 

Summit photos of this wonderful team below :-)

AMS Alaska Range Update - June 21 - Another beautiful day in the Range - Happy Solstice and Father's Day!

HAPPY SOLSTICE and wishing all the Dads and wonderful father figures A HAPPY FATHER'S DAY!  

Colby and Lisle - archives! 

Dog Dads! :-)

The June 8th Expedition, led by Tate Hughes, Emma Russell, and Nick Bakken-French, had an excellent summit day yesterday. They made good time and are already down at the 14,200 camp. They plan to travel to Kahiltna Basecamp overnight tonight, to take advantage of the cool temperatures. If the weather allows, we expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow!

Upper Mountain, Denali, West Buttress 

The June 16 Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, carried and cached at 13,500 overnight, and they celebrated the summer solstice by doing it all from sunset (11:59 am) to sunrise (4:05 am). What a special time to be in the Alaska Range.  This team plans to move to 14,200 camp tomorrow and then take a couple of well-deserved rest days there!

making the carry to Windy Corner

June 16: Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt, moved to the 11,000-foot camp last night and took an active rest day today. Active rest-day activities included climbing to the top of "motorcycle hill" and reviewing crampon techniques needed from here on up. They plan to descend to retrieve their cache at 9,400' tomorrow. They appreciated the bees that were following them overnight. Cosmic and special evening for the summer solstice.

 Midnight sun on Denali

June 19 Alpine Climbing Course led by Tali Levin enjoyed coursework yesterday and toured to a nearby pass to overlook the Crown Glacier. They are enjoying the beautiful weather on the glacier and are making the most of it! They are a very happy trio. It's Father's Day, and Weston and Chloe send an extra shout-out and good wishes to their fathers today! 

June 20, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris had a great Day on the Pika Glacier. They covered a lot of glacier travel and crevasse rescue curriculum and did a climb to a col for views of the next glacier over, the Granite Glacier. 

Glacier travel on Pika Glacier, aka "Little Switzerland"