The May 25th Expedition, led by Cody Pitz, Joe Grout, and Nicole DePetris:
They are making a summit attempt today. Starting from the high camp (17,200 feet/5200m), their packs will weigh between 50 and 65 pounds, as they are no longer pulling sleds. They will return to their high camp and spend the night. The weather is beautiful. A summit day can take as little as 9 hours or as long as 14 hours.
 |
| This 2022 image shows climbers on the summit ridge with Mount Foraker in the distance. |
The May 30th Custom Expedition, led by Eric Roberts: They remain at the high camp resting. They may make a summit attempt tomorrow or Friday. We have a nice weather window, and they have lots of supplies.
 |
| Tents at the 17K high camp. (photo taken by Hector Landa on the May 14 expedition) |
June 4th Custom Ski Expedition, led by Adam Fabrikant: Per their schedule, they remain at 14,200 feet and are acclimating and assessing conditions and procedures for the next carry up the fixed lines. Additionally, they spent the afternoon skiing and said conditions were amazing.
 |
| 14K camp with the climbers on approaching the fixed lines, in the distance on right. (Photo by Victor Garcia on the 5/14/26 expedition) |
June 4th Custom Expedition with Porter Crockard, Cheyenne, with Shanta:
This team did their back carry to the 13,500 cache site, so today will be spent resting and acclimating at 14,200.
 |
| 13,500 cache site. (photo by Victor Garcia on the 5//14/2026 expedition.) |
The June 2nd Expedition, led by Simon Frez-Albrecht and Claire Pennell:
Today is a big day for this team moving around Windy Corner and up to 14,000-foot camp. It is a 3,000-foot elevation gain but a wonderful sight when you roll into camp and see and hear the tent city of colors and languages. They will be greeted by the two other AMS teams, so their hot water will be ready. Melting snow for all drinking and cooking needs takes a long time!
 |
| They are moving from 11 to 14K today. |
The June 8th Expedition led by Tate Hughes, Emma Russell, and Nick Bakken-French moved to 7,800 feet yesterday in the late afternoon. Because the sun is shining about 18 hours a day, it is better to move in the evening to make traveling on the glacier faster... when the snow is firmer.
Today they made a cache of gear up higher on the mountain. To acclimate and reduce the loads, we start doing double carries of food and fuel. "Climb High and Sleep Low" is the motto from 7,800 feet and upwards. They will go to about 9,500 feet and dig a big hole to put the gear in. They cover it with snow and mark it with bamboo wands. They return to their 7,800-foot camp for a good night's rest.
 |
| You will become one with the shovel! Here is Alvaro from the May 14 expedition digging a cache hole. |
 |
| Climbers taking a break on "Ski Hill" with the 7,800-foot camp below. (AMS archive photo) |
No comments:
Post a Comment