The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic spent yesterday at 14K with prep class for the carry up the fixed lines. They did get some snow, but not too much.
Today, if they are feeling well rested and the weather is good, they will carry gear up to the 16,400-foot ridge and return to the 14K camp.
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| Climbers on the fixed lines about the 14K camp. (Photo taken June 17 from a prior AMS expedition) |
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| Climbers atop the fixed lines near a cache. Mount Foraker in the background. (AMS archive image.) |
The June 16th Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt spent some time shoveling the foot of snow that fell on them at 11,000-feet. Today, if the weather allows, they will make a gear carry to the 13,500 cache site and return to 11,000 feet. Climb high and sleep low is how you acclimate. Making small elevation gains helps your body (blood, lungs, and oxygen) acclimate to the altitude.
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This image is from an expedition just last week. It shows the 11K camp with Kahiltna Dome and Mount Foraker in the distance. It never really gets dark this time of year.
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The June 19th Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin with climbers Wes and Chloe: Yesterday they practiced advanced crevasse rescue skills. The morning weather was not conducive to climbing. Later, when it cleared up, they did a glacier tour to look at the Granite Glacier basin. The nice weather is drying out the rock for later climbing.
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| A gap near The Trolls that looks out to the Granite Glacier basin (AMS Photo, 2017) |
The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris had a Snow Skills day: Self-arrest, fixed line ascension and running pro. After that, they climbed a pass near a feature known as Guard Tower near The Throne.
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| Students practicing self-arrest. (AMS archive photo) |
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| Know you knots and pulleys! |
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| There are many places to explore in the Pika Glacier. Hence, it is called "Little Switzerland." |
The June 22nd, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi is doing well on the Eldridge Glacier. They practiced a lot of CR and GT
Today they are moving camp to the Nunatak and hope to find some ice climbing this evening!
A nunatak in an Inuit word referring to the summit or ridge of a mountain that protrudes from an ice field or glacier that otherwise covers most of the mountain or ridge. The glaciers in the Alaska Range can be up to 3000 feet thick.  |
| Students on the Nunatak in the Eldridge Glacier (AMS archive photo) |
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