AMS Denali Expedition Update - another summit day!

Summit Ridge of Denali, photo by AMS Guide Eric Roberts

 Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen reached the top of North America, Denali's summit 20,310 - feet at approximately 5:15PM local time today. The day has been perfect for them and they are pleased with their decision to wait out yesterday at high camp. Well done team. We expect to hear from them this evening when they return to high camp. It generally takes about 4 hours to make the descent to high camp from the summit.  

Denali 6/15 - Willms descended to camp at 14,200 feet this afternoon. They will rest, snack, hydrate while they repack their backpacks and sleds for several hours. They plan to continue to climb down toward Kahiltna Base Camp overnight and we expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow if the weather cooperates with flying.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well at 14,200 feet. They plan to move to high camp tomorrow or take a rest day.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

AMS Denali Update - all is well June 29 and a summit day!

  - oops we mistakenly overwrote yesterday's post today... Thanks for your patience - all is well this is for June 29:

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at high camp today. They look forward to summiting tomorrow if the weather allows. It wasn't quite good enough for the team to make their move upwards today. 

Denali 6/15 - Willms are going for the summit today. They waited in camp for high-altitude winds to decrease, so we expect to hear from them this evening with a report.  - Update! They summitted and are now back in camp - Hooray!

Denali 6/17 - Severis enjoyed the day at 14,200 feet today - the weather was very nice, so they had some excellent naps, snacks, and lots of water to hydrate for the days of climbing they have ahead. They will review fixed lines and several technical skills at 14,200 feet prior to moving up in the next few days.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

View from high camp on Denali's, West Buttress, looking to the south West at Mt. Foraker and at the 14,200-foot camp below.

AMS Denali Expedition Update- sunny skies today

Denali  6/3 - Bunch returned to Talkeetna yesterday! We were very happy to see them after their expedition, what a great team! 

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved up the headwall/fixed lines, along the ridge from 16,200 feet and into 17,200, high camp, today. The weather is clear with some mild winds.

Denali 6/15 - Willms remain at high camp at 17,200 feet today. It is clear with light winds at high camp, but above them, it is very windy, too much for a summit attempt today. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis cached at 13,500' Windy Corner today. They report a beautiful day and plan to move to the camp at 14,200- feet tomorrow. This is a big day and they are looking forward to it!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 has returned to Talkeetna on schedule today! They now are happily unpacked and currently enjoying lunch at one of Talkeetna's local restaurants, a short walk from AMS HQ.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Archive AMS photo of tents at high camp, 17,200 feet within snow walls and tied down in anticipation of high winds... 

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - weather everywhere

Denali  6/3 - Bunch remains in Basecamp at 7,200 ft today.  Their spirits remain fine as they were a big help getting glacier runway ready for incoming flights it was a lot of work stomping since a foot of wet snow fell last night. We remain hopeful that we will see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen stayed in the 14,200-foot camp today. They are doing just fine as they shovel, eat, nap, read, and repeat...

Denali 6/15 - Willms are patiently waiting at high camp at 17,200 feet, for a good weather window. They are doing well as they wait, the winds weren't oppressively strong today, but it's not calm enough to make their move upward. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis stayed in camp 11,200-feet today as it was too snowy and windy once again to make a carry. They are doing fine and will be ready when the weather improves!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

AMS Denali Expedition and 12 Day Mountaineering Course Update

Denali  6/3 - Bunch is in Basecamp at 7,200 ft and is awaiting the weather to clear to fly back to Talkeetna.   It was completely cloudy and rained on them today, so they set up their tents and reamain in good spirits. We are hopeful that we will see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at the 14,200-foot camp today in a rather windy and snowy day. They were planning on a rest day so it is perfect timing for this (predicted) short storm day.  

Denali 6/15 - Willms is napping and reading at 17,200 ft. today. This sounds rather luxurious, but nothing is easy at 17,200 feet. Their bodies are doing double duty as they are acclimating to the new altitude. They are patiently awaiting a good weather window, and have plenty of time.  

Denali 6/17 - Severis rested in camp 11,200-feet today as it was too snowy and windy to make a carry. They are feeling strong and ready when the weather improves, possibly tomorrow afternoon...

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 led by Kirby Senden, Chris Miller, and Ayla Crosby is been having a great time. Yesterday they went rock climbing on a feature called the footstool and everyone had a lot of fun! Today they moved camp back up toward the glacier airstrip / pick up point and location for the base of a nearby mixed snow and rock climb peak ascent!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Climbing on Denali, West Buttress's ridge between 16,200 feet and 17,200 feet.
The photo was taken from an airplane passing overhead.

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - a good day for travel!

Denali  6/3 - Bunch has departed 14,200-foot camp and is en route toward Basecamp. They will at 11,200 feet for a few hours for a long nap and wake to travel on the lower glacier in the early hours to take advantage of the cooler temperatures.  We expect to see them back in Talkeetna, tomorrow morning, as the weather allows.  

Denali 6/7 - Phelps returned to Talkeetna this morning.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved up to the 14,200-foot camp today. They are happy to be at a new elevation. Tomorrow, depending on how they feel and the weather they will either rest at 14,200 ft. tomorrow or carry gear, food, and fuel up the headwall to 16,200 feet.

Denali 6/15 - Willms moved up the headwall / fixed lines, along the ridge, and into high camp at 17,200 ft. today. Depending on how they feel and the weather, they may try for the summit as soon as tomorrow; they have plenty of time.  Jesse, with Guide Scott, and Clark are having a great climb together.

Denali 6/17 - Severis rested in camp 11,200-feet today and plan to carry to Windy Corner tomorrow at 13,500 ft. They are doing well and enjoying the good weather.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

High camp on Denali, 17,200 feet.  The ridge between 16,200 and 17,200 can also be clearly seen in this photo.

Setting up camp at 14,200 feet on Denali

The light in the middle of the night is beyond beautiful. At appox. 12,000 feet

Update from AMS TEAMS on Denali and Pika Glacier

Denali  6/3 - Bunch rested at 14,200-foot camp today and plan to rest there again tomorrow. We expect to see them back in Talkeetna, on THURSDAY morning.  

 Denali 6/7 - Phelps descended from 17,200 ft. high camp this morning and are currently resting at 11,200-foot camp before continuing to descend toward basecamp at 7,200 feet in the early hours of the morning. We may see them back in Talkeetna as early as tomorrow, Wednesday morning.  

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at 11,200 feet again today. They are fine and looking forward to moving up to the 14,200-foot camp tomorrow. They will be ready! 

Denali 6/15 - Willms rested and reviewed skills for the fixed lines today at 14,200 feet as planned. The weather is fine and they are enjoying acclimating to this higher altitude. They look forward to either carrying up the headwall to 16,200 feet or moving camp higher tomorrow, depending on how they feel and the weather. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis moved to a new camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at 11,200 feet today and they are excited to be in a new location!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 went climbing today! 

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Photo from Talkeetna Air Taxi Denali summit flight yesterday! This shows several climbers between 19,600 feet and 20,000 feet. The summit is just out of the photo to the left.

Updates from AMS Denali Expeditions and our 12 Day Mountaineering Course on the Pika Glacier

Denali 6/7 - Phelps Summited Denali this afternoon at approx 5:00 PM local time. They broke trail the whole way up, so this was an extra bonus of a high-altitude workout, if any team could do it - it was this one.  The team did really well today and they are making their way back to high camp now. They are feeling good. Massive congratulations to David with guides Jeremiah and Hannah!

Denali  6/3 - Bunch had a nice sleep-in at 17,200 feet after yesterday's climb to 20,310 feet. They are currently on their way to camp at the 14,200-foot camp and plan to rest there tomorrow for most of the day. We expect to see them back in Talkeetna, on Wednesday morning.  Congratulations to this team: Len, Robert, Emily, Andrew with Guides, Wes, Katie, and Fallon 

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at 11,200 feet today. They are doing well, they are fine and looking forward to moving up to the 14,200-foot camp tomorrow. 

Denali 6/15 - Willms took a well-deserved rest at 14,200 feet today, and will rest and review skills for the fixed lines tomorrow in this camp. The weather is fine and they are enjoying acclimating to this higher altitude. They are having a great time up there.

Denali 6/17 - Severis carried another load of food, fuel, and gear up to approx. 9,900 feet today, it was a warm day on the Kahiltna Glacier today, the team is making steady progress upwards. Tomorrow they will move to a new camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at 11,200 feet.

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 is doing well on the Pika Glacier! The weather is good so they are taking advantage of it with lots of hands-on classes and the area has several moderate climbs.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Northwest views from the summit ridge of Denali

NPS - Walter Harper Ranger Station Photo and route overlay of the West Buttress Route

July 2021 Mountaineering Course space availability

 Are you, a family member, or friends still wanting to plan an adventure for the summer? A few of our Alaska Range Mountaineering Courses still have places available. 

2021 MOUNTAINEERING COURSE AVAILABILITY UPDATE:

AMS July Mountaineering Courses still have availability. If you are adventuresome, a team player, and want to further your outdoor skills, join us in the Alaska Range for fun, learning, and training in 2021. 

12 Day Mountaineering Courses

July 2-13: 2 places available 

July 15-26: 2 places available 

6 Day Mountaineering Courses

July 7-12: 1 place available 

Contact AMS with questions and for more information. 

 Find application materials on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Glacier travel in the Alaska Range during  July Mountaineering Course

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions and 12 Day Mountaineering Course.

  AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather on the upper mountain today is currently cold, clear, with light winds.   Lower elevations are experiencing warmer temperatures, mild winds, and clear skies.  All is well! 

Denali  6/3 - Bunch woke to a clear and calm morning, so they are on their way towards the summit today. It's a long day averaging between 12-14 hours round trip, so we wish them loads of luck and continued good weather today!

Denali 6/7 - Phelps moved to 16,200 feet yesterday.  They are moving to 17,200 feet camp today. All is very well with this strong team, they are having an excellent day.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved to the camp at 11,200 feet yesterday. They are doing well, they are fine and looking forward to carrying to Windy Corner 13,500 feet when the conditions allow.

Denali 6/15 - Willms took a full and well-deserved rest day at 11,200 feet yesterday and are moving to 14,200-camp today. The terrain becomes significantly more exposed and technical today and all the teams switch to crampons above 11,200 feet. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis moved to a camp at 7,800 feet yesterday and is carrying to 9,300 feet today to carry a cache of food, fuel, and extra warm gear. They will sleep at 7,800 feet tonight and tomorrow move up to camp higher, either to 9,800 feet or to 11,200 feet. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 celebrated Sally's birthday yesterday with cheesecake and merriment! The team is doing well on the glacier and covering lots of classwork, snow camping, and cooking skills.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

NPS - Walter Harper Ranger Station Photo and route overlay of the West Buttress Route

Wes Bunch's Denali Expedition Patiently Waits at High Camp (17,200 ft)

Wes Bunch's June 3rd Denali expedition is patiently waiting for the wind to calm down at High Camp (17,200 ft) before the make their summit bid.

Update from AMS on Denali and the 12 Day course!

  AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

All is well.  The weather on the upper mountain today is was moderately windy mid-morning, with decreasing winds and light snow this afternoon and evening.  Check out moutnain-forecast.com to keep an eye on it!

Denali  6/3 - Bunch Woke up to clear and light winds, so they went on a walk up towards Denali Pass, they climbed part of the way to the pass when the winds increased within two hours of climbing, so they returned to high camp. They are doing well back in high camp and were pleased to have gotten out of the camp to stretch their legs. The evening was comprised of hot drinks, dinner, and cozy sleeping bags. They will wake up early tomorrow morning to check on the weather. 

17,200 foot high camp on Denali's West Buttress

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - are waiting in their camp at 14,200 feet for the winds and snow to stop to make a move to either 16,200 feet or to 17,200 feet camp. they are doing just fine waiting out the weather. They were tempted to make their move this morning, but the winds were too high on the ridge between 16,200 and 17,200 feet. 

14,200 camp with a little weather...

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen - moved to the camp at 9,300 feet. They are doing well and it is lightly snowing on them as well, they are fine and looking forward to moving to the 11,200-foot camp tomorrow.

Denali 6/15 - Willms - Are feeling strong and moving well. They moved to an 11,200-foot camp last night and are thrilled to be there. They will be able to directly move to 14,200-camp when the conditions allow.

Climbers ascending out of 11,200 camp

Denali 6/17 - Severis - Flew into basecamp on time this afternoon and was feeling excited to get started. They are currently at 7,200-foot Kahiltna Basecamp and will rest there for the evening, and then get underway late tonight/ early tomorrow morning to make their move to camp at 7,800 feet. They do not have internet connections for the remainder of the climb - lucky them! They use a satellite phone (for emergency calls only) and Garmin Inreach for texting us updates, which we will pass on here on the blog.

This is what happens when you arrive at basecamp - the shoveling begins!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 had a great day today with classes about snow/ glacier camping, stove use, glacier travel and crevasse rescue, and more! They are a happy and fun-loving team. They will be on the Pika Glacier/ Little Switzerland area of the Alaska Range for their course, it is a large side glacier that feeds into the mighty Kahiltna Glacier. 

Classes on the Pika Glacier

DWB 6/17-Severis Launches Today!

A Bittersweet Day as Our Last Expedition Group of 2021 is on Their Way!

Michelle, Tyler, Teddy, Greg, Con (Standing), Asad (Kneeling), Brad and Mike

A beautiful day in Talkeetna for our last Denali Expedition of the season to fly up to basecamp! They are a great group being guided by Con Severis, Michelle Leonard and Tyler Grundstrom.  
 

6/16 12-Day Mountaineering Course Launched!

 

     From left to right: Whitney, Sally, Jodi, Sam, Ti, Bob, Chris, Ayla, Kikken, and Kirby

The June 16th AMS 12-day mountaineering course led by Kirby Senden, Chris Miller, and Ayla Crosby flew to the Pika Glacier on Thursday, June 17th. The climbers will focus on skills progression for knots, placing protection, snow climbing techniques, roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques, and much more.

AMS DENALI AND ALASKA RANGE EXPEDITION UPDATE - all is well!

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

After a very busy 48 hours... here is an update! - All is well.  Today is was a cloudy snowy morning, with clearing in the afternoons and through this evening.

Denali 5/31 Kayes has returned to Talkeetna and is happy to be back in the lush green of summer. Well done and big congratulations to everyone for your hard work up there. 

Denali  6/3 - Bunch moved up the headwall and along the ridge to a high camp at 17,200 feet YESTERDAY, they had a good move. Last night it snowed approx. 10 inches in camp, so today they had a solid rest at high camp, played cards, and are hoping for a window of opportunity to summit tomorrow. Dinner tonight was special, an in-house high altitude favorite: Ramen Bombs. :-) 

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - moved up to 14,200 ft YESTERDAY. They are doing well and settling to the temperatures, new camp, and altitude at the 14,200-foot camp. They are feeling strong.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen - today they carried food, fuel, and gear to 9,300 feet in preparation for their move to the camp at 11,200 feet tonight/ early this morning.

Denali 6/15 - Willms - Are doing well!  Last night they move to a 7,800-foot camp and tonight they plan to carry to approx 9,500' with food fuel and extra gear. 

12 Day Moutnianeering Course - 6/16 has flown into the Pika Glacier after one day delay due to cloudy and rainy weather here in Talkeetna. They had a great day today with ground skills, before their flight in this afternoon. Team photo coming soon!

Top of the headwall at 16,200 feet, the views just keep getting better!

TEAM PHOTO - DENALI JUNE 14 - HOESCHEN

 The June 14th Denali -West Buttress Expedition is underway!

This team led by Josh Hoeschen had a great day and a half preparing at AMS in Talkeetna and getting to know one another. They flew in on time this afternoon to the mighty SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb!

Bob, Marco, Matt, Brock, Mauricio, Rebecca, Guides: Josh, Peggy, and Chelsey

AMS Denali Update - Summit day and nice weather for moving in all directions

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather was nice today at all elevations - good news for all.

Denali 5/31 Kayes Reached the Top of North America at approx. 5:15 PM local time! Congratulations to this hardworking team.  They are currently on their way back to high camp at 17,200 feet.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch rested at 14,200 ft today and plan to move up the headwall/ fixed lines and along the ridge to a high camp at 17,200 feet tomorrow.

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - carried items to Windy Corner at 13,500 feet today. They plan to move up to 14,200 ft tomorrow if the weather permits.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen - have flown into basecamp at 7,200 feet on schedule today, they were excited to get underway.

---------

Denali  5/28 - Ennis - Coombs Have returned to Talkeetna! 

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard Have returned to Talkeetna! 

We are so happy to welcome both of these incredible teams back to AMS and the lush green of summer in  Talkeetna, Alaska.

Denali approx.18,700 ft on the way to high camp from summit day

Updates from Denali - another nice today to move!

  AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather was clear and sunny today at all elevations - it is downright hot at times. so evening travel is a welcome routine for the climbers below 14,200 feet. 

Denali  5/24 - Divine returned to Talkeetna this morning - we loved welcoming them back to a proper summer with green leaves and blooming flowers.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs is descending towards 7,200 feet camp this evening.  We look forward to seeing them tomorrow morning! Find out more about Kirstie and her truly amazing foundation:  https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/ 

Denali 5/31 Kayes moved to high camp at 17,200 feet. They had a beautiful day to move up the headwall and along the ridge into 17,200' high camp.

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits is descending towards 14,200 feet camp this evening.  We look forward to seeing them as soon! To find out more about this courageous, hard-working team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummit 

Denali  6/3 - Bunch carried to 16,400 feet today. The views from the fixed lines are amazing! Tomorrow they will either rest or move to a high camp at 17,200 feet.

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - they retrieved their cache at 10,500 feet and tomorrow they will carry extra gear, food, and fuel to Windy Corner at 13,500 feet. They are doing well up there.

Denali High Camp at 17,200 feet

AMS DENALI TEAM UPDATES - another beautiful day at 20,310 ft. and at all elevations

  AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather was clear and sunny today.

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits stood at the top of North America today at approx. 5:45 PM local time. The views from 20,310 ft are inspiring today to match this team's dedication and grit. For this team, today marks Benjamin Breckheimer's world record achievement to be the first combat-wounded record climber to achieve the seven summits; and team member David Ashley is a uniformed service member and living organ donor. They are thankful to have had a beautiful day up there together on this very special day. We are so proud of them. To find out more about this courageous, hard-working team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

!Previous! AMS team on the summit of Denali

Denali  5/24 - Divine is descending towards basecamp this evening and through the night. We expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow morning! 

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs is descending towards 14,200 ft camp this afternoon and evening.  Find out more about this rockstar of a human and climber: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/ 

The ridge between 17,200 ft. and 16,200 ft.

Denali 5/31 Kayes had a well-deserved take rest day at 14,200', tomorrow they will be ready to move to high camp at 17,200 feet. They had a great day full of napping, hydrating, and eating.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch had a well-deserved take rest day at 14,200', tomorrow they will carry to 16,200'. They are doing well and enjoyed a relaxing day today.

Climbers approaching 14,200 ft. camp

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - moved up to 11,200 feet camp today. They arrived this afternoon and said it was hot in the afternoon sun. Tomorrow they will retrieve their cache at 10,500 feet and it will feel like a semi-rest day. 

11,200' camp

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer returned to Talkeetna this morning, they are out celebrating with dinner as a team this evening and had a wonderful course and enjoyed their climb of Mt. Capps. We are looking forward to seeing their photos!

AMS UPDATES from Denali - Top of the world & more sunny weather at all elevations

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather was clear and sunny today.

Denali  5/24 - Divine is descending from high camp today, and is looking forward to their journey back down the Kahiltna. This team has had a wonderful time climbing together. We may see them back in Talkeetna as soon as Sunday 6/13.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs summited Denali today at approx. 4:45 pm local time. They had a beautiful day to the top of North America and had only one other team ahead of them on the way up. We look forward to welcoming them back to Talkeetna. Today the views were amazing from 20,310 feet.  We are so proud of everyone who worked so hard on this team. They will go back to their high camp at 18,000 ft tonight and then keep making their way back to base in the next several days. Find out more about this special person and climber: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/ 

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard is at 17,200 ft; they rested at high camp today and tomorrow is their day for a summit attempt. The weather forecast is looking good for them. We are so lucky to be working with this group this year! To find out more about this courageous, hard-working team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

Denali 5/31 Kayes carried up the fixed lines to cache at 16,200 ft, today.  Tomorrow they plan to take a well-deserved take rest day at 14,200'.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch moved to 14,200 ft camp today. They are feeling happy about the nice weather.  This is always a tough day with both exposed terrain and altitude. They plan to take a rest day at 14,200' tomorrow.

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - carried to 10,500 ft tonight/ early tomorrow morning, and plan to move up to 11,200' tonight/early tomorrow morning. The traveling conditions have been good for them on the glacier during the night.

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer They had a good day at Khiltna Pass today.  Tonight they will pack up camp and travel in the cool of the night back to Kahiltna Basecamp 7,200 ft. and for their return glacier flight back to Talkeetna tomorrow morning. 

Returning from the summit ridge approx.  20,000' on Denali

AMS Denali and Kahiltna Pass Update - SUMMITS! Clear skies today, everyone was busy.

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

The weather was clear and sunny today!

Denali  5/24 - Divine summited Denali today at 3:45 PM local time. Congratulations to this entire team for their hard work and perseverance for five days at high camp, that in itself is a major accomplishment that few will ever experience. We may see them back in Talkeetna as soon as Sunday 6/13.

Climbers on the summit of Denali from a passing airplane

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs Made a strong move to their high camp at approx. 18,000 ft on the Harper Glacier, up and over Denali Pass.  This sets them up well to summit tomorrow if the weather cooperates. Find out more about this wonderful team: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/

Climbing up Denali Pass, looking west, back towards high camp, Mt. Foraker.

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard moved to high camp 17,200' today.  they reported a beautiful day on the ridge and enjoyed a warm welcome into a nicely established AMS camp compound. To find out more about this inspiring team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

AMS climbing at approx. 16,800' ridge on a beautiful day.

Denali 5/31 Kayes moved to 14,200 ft. yesterday and back carried to 13,500 feet today, as sort of a working rest day. Tomorrow they plan to carry up the fixed lines to cache at 16,200 ft, then take a rest day!

Climbers leaving 14,200 camp, with Mt. Foraker providing the best backdrop.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch carried up to 14,000 yesterday and today they took a rest day at 11,200 ft camp. They plan to move to 14,200 ft camp tomorrow. They are feeling happy about the nice weather.

The terrain they climbed through yesterday and will see again tomorrow. Approx 13,000 ft.

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - moved to 7,800 ft. camp early this morning, and plan to carry to 9,500 ft tonight/ early tomorrow morning. 

7,800 ft. on the Kahiltna Glacier, West Buttress Camp 1

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer is camped at the base of Kahiltna Pass.  They climbed Mt. Capps 10, 551 ft today in the nice weather, and will stay in the area for more classwork tomorrow as well. The weather is looking good for them to stay on schedule for their flight out on Sunday, June 14th.

AMS nearing the summit of Mt. Capps. 

AMS Denali Expedition Update

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

Weather persisted today on Denali, with periodic clearing and storms at all elevations.

Denali  5/24 - Divine remains at high camp to rest today. Here's hoping tomorrow is their day!

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs remains at high camp. They may move to a higher camp at Denali Pass tomorrow. Find out more about this wonderful team: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard rested at 14,200' camp today, they are hopeful that they will be able to move up the headwall, along the ridge, and into high camp 17,200' tomorrow. To find out more about this inspiring team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

Denali 5/31 Kayes Planned to move up to 14,200 ft. today and around Windy Corner.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch Planned to carry items to Windy Corner at 13,500 ft to make their upward progress today. 

Denali 6/7 - Phelps - Hooray! Flew into basecamp today - after several days of a weather delay in Talkeetna. They will very likely move to 7,800 ft. camp tonight/early tomorrow morning.

AMS Moving up on the lower glacier

NPS Image of Denali's West Buttress

Updates from AMS on Denali's West Buttress and Kahiltna Pass

AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

Strong winds happened at very high elevations on Denali today. 

Denali  5/24 - Divine remains at high camp to rest. It is fairly clear, but with a very large lenticular cloud above them, (indicating very high winds), so it is another good day to rest. All is well with them as they enjoy the views.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs moved to Camp at 17,200 feet today. This is the typical West Buttress Climbers high camp, but they plan to make an alternative high camp at Denali Pass, at approx. 18,200'. Keep posted for updates about that in the days ahead. Lead guide Colby Coombs reports "...feeling better than ever with strength and altitude up here. Our team is doing very well." 

Find out more about this wonderful team: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard carried to 16,200 feet, (the top of the fixed lines) as planned today. They got out in front of other climbers to ascend the headwall and the fixed lines this morning, which is the best way to do it.  Lead Guide, Kai Girard reports: "Internmintent clouds and light snow, but warm in the sun and a great carry to 16K to cache. Light ridgetop winds. Rest day tomorrow, then move up to 17K on Saturday."

To find out more about this inspiring team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

Denali 5/31 Kayes are waiting at 11,200 ft. until the weather calms.  They are very patiently waiting and feeling hopeful for a break in the weather to move up to 14,200 ft. tomorrow. 

Denali  6/3 - Bunch They waited at 11,200' today, when the weather improves, they will carry items to Windy Corner at 13,500 ft to make their upward progress. They remain in good spirits while they wait.

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer is at Kahiltna Pass at approx. 10,000 feet. They are doing very well and hope for some climbing tomorrow with clearing weather.

The ridge between 16,200 and 17,200 feet on Denali's West Buttress

Updates from AMS On Denali and at Kahiltna Pass

AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

Strong gusts of winds happened at higher elevations on Denali today, and snow fell at 14,200' and below, so all of our teams remained in their camps. Temperatures were not terribly cold so that is a plus.

Denali  5/24 - Divine remains at high camp to rest. It is fairly clear, but with significant gusts and clouds coming and going, so it is a good day to rest. All is well.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs remain at 16,200 feet today. The weather is rather clear with clouds and strong gusts, so they will wait in hopes the weather calms for their move along the ridge. They are in good spirits and enjoying this spectacular camp. It was windy last night, so they were thankful for their nice platform and walls. They have spent the day hydrating, snacking, napping, and plenty of laughing in the tents. They are looking forward to their move up to High Camp tomorrow if the weather allows.

Find out more about this fantastic team: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits - Girard went to retrieve their previously cached items at 13,600' today! They spent the afternoon reinforcing their walls, hydrating, eating, resting, and chatting. Tomorrow they plan to carry to 16,200, the top of the fixed lines if the weather allows. They are doing well up there, working hard, and having a great time. 

To find out more about this amazing team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

Denali 5/31 Kayes are waiting at 11,200 ft. until the weather calms.  They hope for a break in the weather to move up to 14,200 ft. tomorrow and are doing just fine while they wait. They have plenty of fuel and food, so they enjoyed the camaraderie, hot drinks, and tasty food today. 

Denali  6/3 - Bunch Happy Birthday to Rob Kinsley today!!! They will be celebrating with a cheesecake :-)   The team back carried to 10,300' and now have all of their gear, food, and fuel at 11,200 ft. When the weather improves, they will carry items to Windy Corner at 13,500 ft to make their upward progress on this beautiful, wild mountain.

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer is at Kahiltna Pass at approx. 10,000 feet.  They continued their real-time lessons in storm camping. They are in excellent spirits and are enjoying every minute of it.

This is tent time....waiting out a storm on day seven. AMS Guides meeting with Jeremiah Phelps, Michael Gardner, Chelsea Bomba, Scott Patch.

Updates From AMS Denali and Kahiltna Pass - some stormy weather

 AMS EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

Stormy weather that was in and out periodically on Denali today, it sunny in camps this evening.

Denali  5/24 - Divine rested at High Camp 17,200 ft. today.  They enjoyed tasty food, plenty of hot drinks, and views from 17,200 ft.  They will be well-rested and ready to make their summit attempt when the weather allows. Right now it is too windy to move higher. 

AMS Camp at 17,200', looking down at the weather below.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs moved up to 16,200 feet today to the tent platforms they chopped out yesterday. The wind and snow picked up while they were ascending the headwall, while they were climbing up. Tomorrow they will move up to 17,200', high camp if the weather permits. 

Find out more about this fantastic team: https://kirstieennisfoundation.com/

AMS Archive Photo of camp at 16,200' one of the most beautiful places to camp, but it isn't often used because takes a lot of work to prepare the site, in a very exposed location.

Denali: Purple Hearts Summits moved to 14,200 ft. camp today.  It was windy at Windy Corner, and a whiteout at times, but the traveling conditions were still very good today for moving up. They are very pleased to have made this big move up.  Ramen soup and Tortelli for dinner  tongiht! They are eating well and that is a good sign that they are acclimating quickly.

To find out more about this amazing team:  https://www.american300.org/purpleheartsummits

Camp at 14,200' 

Denali 5/31 Kayes carried to Windy Corner today and are safely back at 11,200'.  All is well with this team and they are feeling good. They are ready to move up when the weather allows. They reported wind and whiteout at times but the snow conditions are in good shape. They hope to move up tomorrow and are excited.

11,200' camp

Denali Prep Course 6/2 - Vilhauer are experienced stormy weather at Kahitln Pass at approx. 10,000 feet.  They built snow walls and fortified their camp today, with real-time lessons in camping, cooking, and living with stormy weather. They are in excellent spirits and are having a wonderful time.

AMS students approaching Denali Pass on a previous Denali Prep Course.

Denali  6/3 - Bunch moved to 11,200 ft. to make a new camp and enjoy the views. They are doing well and are happy to be in camp. They too moved in some story weather but it was all very manageable in the lower angle terrain between 7800' and 11,200'. 

11,200' camp after a fresh snowfall.