July 26th Mountaineering Course Update

The weather in Alaska is always unpredictable.  Just when we get used to sunny weather and clear skies, Alaska reminds us of its fickle disposition.  Gentle rain and low clouds have grounded aircraft flying into the range.  Therefore....

July 15 Twelve Day Mountaineering Course - Bomba is ready to fly out and waiting for a weather window.  They are fine and have plenty of food, but they are getting the full Alaskan mountain experience.  We're confident they will have a really good runway packed for the airplane when it arrives!

July 25 Custom Mountaineering Course has regrouped and has gone to Hatcher Pass to travel the Bomber Glacier.  This is a stunning hike to an ideal place to practice and learn skills.

AMS Guide, Jake Kayes and AMS client, Sam Sidiqi

7/25 Custom Mountaineering Course Launch

This July 25 Custom Mountaineering Course plans to fly into the Alaska Range this evening for some one-on-one instruction and adventure!

AMS Guide, Jake Kayes with client, Sam Sidiqi

Waiting to board Talkeetna Air Taxi's Otter and fly to the glacier

July 23 twelve day mountaineering course- Bomba

This 12 day mountaineering course is having a great time! 

Report from Chelsea Bomba:

"Going cragging today! Late start pancake breakfast after taking advantage of the midnight sun and traveling until 1am last night, getting very close to the Kahiltna glacier. Navigation through crevasse fields was the main lesson. 

 The group had a blast exploring the ablation zone (see definition below). We saw some beautiful features and spent a ton of time on crampons.

Finished the day off with lowering them into a crevasse that was wide enough for some ice climbing. 9 mile-ish day from camp round-trip. So far everyone's favorite day."  

AMS photo by guide Allen Dahl of students traveling on the Pika Glacier 

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Ablation Zone

The loss of mass from snow or ice, mostly from melting but also including sublimation, scouring, and other processes.

Ablation is the opposite of accumulation.

While this term can be used with snow or ice the most common use is with glaciers. Glaciers gain mass over the course of a year in the accumulation zone, where the past winters snow does not all melt over the summer. Below a certain elevation, the glacier loses mass because the mass lost exceeds the amount accumulation in winter - this is called the ablation zone. Late in the summer, there is often a distinct line separating the whiter looking accumulation zone above from the darker ablation zone below - this is called the firn line

July 22 report from the 12 day mountaineering course, Bomba

AMS photo from camp on the Pika glacier looking towards Mt. Foraker and Kahiltna glacier 

The 12-day mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl is having a good time out in the Pika glacier with great weather and grand views. They have moved down glacier and set up a top-notch snow camp. They accomplished crevasse rescue class in a scenic spot below a rock feature called "Italy's Boot" 
Tomorrow they will tour further down glacier towards the Kahiltna Glacier to practice cramponing, placing protection, anchors, and probably rappelling and ice climbing. 


Way to go team!

7/19 Report from the Range

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl is reporting that all is well!  They've done two student led walks to Grizzly Pass and up to the Plunger.  Four of the students have had their first ski lesson!  Tomorrow they plan on tackling crevasse rescue.

12 day Mountaineering Course: July 15-26, led by Bomba: LAUNCH!

AMS photo by Amanda Erickson of flying in Denali National Park with a view of the big 3: Foraker, Hunter, and Denali

AMS mountaineering course led by Chelsea Bomba and Allen Dahl have launched early this morning to the Pika Glacier in Denali National Park for 12 days of winter camping, glacier travel and crevasse rescue learning. Great crew of students from Australia, Canada, and the U.S. Beautiful, clear morning today to fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi. 

AMS course, starting Left: Guide Chelsea Bomba, Brian, Katherine, Josh, Mitch, Sam, Sian, Guide Allen Dahl

Youth Wilderness Backpacking, 7/8, led by Fallon Connolly: RETURNS!

Awards ceremony 

Everyone is excited to be back and enjoying ice cream!

12 day mountaineering course led by Jake Kayes

The mountaineering course scheduled to fly from the Alaska Range today has been delayed due to weather. All is well on the Eldridge Glacier and they will get picked up as soon as they are able to safely.

AMS climber practice 

July 11, YOUTH PROGRAMS - Ice Climbing and Backpacking Updates

Guides Simon and Elias with the Overland Summer Youth Program had fun playing on the Matanuska Glacier ice climbing in a shallow crevasse.

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7/8 Wilderness Backpacking Course for 13-14 year olds led by Fallon Connolly reports that the team made it to Mini Skinny Lake int he early afternoon - today the students led and navigated the way there and they are doing great with their camp cooking skills.  The cooler temperatures are welcome. Tomorrow, they will meet the AMS van at the trailhead  at 2:00 pm at the Beyers Lake Trailhead - and be back at AMS at 4:00 PM for gear clean up, and group closing meetings. Parent pick up is at 6:30 PM  

Photo of Kesugi ridge on a clear day! - the team hiked in the clouds today.

AMS Mountaineering and Hiking Updates

AMS 12 Day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes and Chris Miller practiced digging snow shelters today while taking the time to cook a delicious dinner.

Photo from a previous AMS Mountaineering Course

7/8 Teen Backpacking trip led by Fallon Connolly is reporting that the team of teen hikers is very strong.  They spent some time at the top of Ermine Hill and then trekked the distance to Skinny Lake.

7/9 Reports from the Range and the Ridge

AMS 12 Day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes and Chris Miller is reporting smokey conditions in the mountains from the various forest fires throughout Alaska.  We are hoping for some significant rainfall statewide to help the firefighters! They spent time ice climbing yesterday and they practiced fixed line ascension and rappelling today.

  

7/8 Teen Backpacking trip led by Fallon Connolly were eager to get an early start to avoid the midday heat.  They traveled to 10 Mile Tarn to set up camp for the night and spent some time swimming in a high alpine lake.

  

Teen Backpacking, July 8, led by Fallon Connolly: LAUNCH!

AMS Teen Backpacking trip led by Fallon Connolly launched today from Talkeetna with five young people from Talkeetna and Anchorage area. They are heading out for a 5-day adventure in Denali State Park, Kesugi Ridge route. They started hiking today right on time at 2:00 pm from Little Coal Creek trailhead. This area is world class for camping on alpine lakes with views of Denali and surrounding mountains on a clear day, which today is.

Have a great time! 

AMS team photo at Headquarters: starting L: AMS guide Fallon, Breck, Allegany, Cole, Lisle, Lea, and AMS guide Allen 

Photo by Caitlin Palmer of the team at the Kesugi Ridge Trailhead

Denali Expedition, June 20 led by Scott Patch: Update

The June 20th Denali Expedition led by Scott Patch and Porter have reached 14,200' camp today and everyone is doing great. The next move will be to leave early morning (0200) tomorrow for Ski Hill, approximately 7,800 feet. They plan to be moving towards Kahiltna Basecamp early morning on July 9th. Go team go!

AMS photo by Dylan Miller of climbers descending on the upper mountain 

Mountaineering Course: 12 day led by Jake Kayes

AMS course led by Jake Kayes and Chris Miller are having a great time on the Eldridge Glacier. They have climbed a snow peak while making use of an alpine start and learned how to make a bivouac camp at the base of the climb, which is a great way to practice their lightweight systems. They are now camped on a nunatak,  which is a geologic feature: an isolated peak of rock projecting above a surface and surrounded by the glacier. This crew is getting stellar weather right now and we look forward to hearing their stories! 

AMS photo of previous course on the nunatak on the Eldridge Glacier 

July 6, AMS Denali Expeditions update - Summit and return to AMS

June 20 Expedition led by Scott Patch reached the summit of Denali this afternoon. They are currently on their way back to high camp. They may be back in Talkeetna as soon as Tuesday. Congratulations team - strong work everyone.

Denali 20,310', the top of North America 

 YAYAYAYYAY - back in Talkeetna! 

June 16 Expedition led by Larry Holmgren 

A tired and fulfilled June 16th team.

AND the 

June 18 "Summit Experience China" Expedition led by Con Severis 

Summit Experience China, back in at AMS HQ and enjoying the green grass.

July 5th Expeditions Update

June 20 Expedition led by Scott Patch is resting at high camp.  We're hoping for a few days of calm weather so this group can try for the summit.

June 16 Expedition led by Larry Holmgren AND the June 18 "Summit Experience China" Expedition led by Con Severis are resting at 14,200 ft camp and will be continuing their descent towards Base Camp tonight.

All Mountain Update

June 16 Expedition led by Larry Holmgren AND the June 18 "Summit Experience China" Expedition led by Con Severis both SUMMITED Denali today.  Congratulations to these teams for having the patience to stick it out through some windy days!  

July 1st Mountaineering Training Course has been having fun practicing snow climbing and self arrest. They will practice crevasse rescue techniques next, and they are learning how to cook tasty meals in a tent.  They are off to a great start in the range.















June 18th Custom Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen has arrived back in Talkeetna.



June 20 Expedition led by Scott Patch is hoping to move to high camp tonight.

July 2 Expedition Update

AMS hydration station, photo by guide Dustin English

June 16 Expedition led by Larry Holmgren 

  & 

June 18 "Summit Experience China" Expedition led by Con Severis 

remain settled in at 17,200 ft camp. Above high camp, they can hear the winds sounding like a freight train. We are hoping the winds calm down soon to allow for movement upwards! Everyone is doing well and cheesy hashbrowns and hot drinks are keeping spirits up. 

AMS photo by guide Rob Gowler of high camp winds and snow 

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June 20 Expedition led by Scott Patch have settled into 14,200ft camp and are taking a rest day today. 

AMS photo of camp set up at 14,200' 

AMS photo by guide Rob Gowler of descending from 14k camp. 

June 18th Custom Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen are descending towards basecamp and were at 10,000 feet yesterday. 

Mountaineering Course: 12 Day, Kayes, LAUNCH!

AMS 12 day mountaineering course launched today after a busy day packing gear, lunches and practicing ascending a rope before flying with Talkeetna Air Taxi to the Eldridge Glacier. Starting Left: Lead Guide Jake Kayes, guide Chris Miller, Jackson, David, Paul, Karen, and Jenn. Everyone was very excited to get out on the glacier and escape the heat that is currently settled over Alaska.