DENALI EXPEDITIONS 2022- Current Availability

Current Availability: Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: FULL

May 19–June 9: FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 3 places available

June 2-23:  FULL (pending 1 place available)

June 6–27: pending FULL

June 13–July 4: 3 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  (pending 5 places available)

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.

Denali West Buttress Expeditions- 2022 Availability

                                                                                

Current Availability: Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: FULL

May 19–June 9: FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 3 places available

June 2-23:  FULL

June 6–27: 4 places available

June 13–July 4: 4 places available (pending 3 places available)

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  (pending 5 places available)

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.

Denali 2022 Expedition Availability Update

Current Availability:

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: FULL

May 19–June 9: FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 3 places available

June 2-23:  FULL

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 4 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  (pending 5 places available)

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Availability for Guided Denali, West Buttress Expeditions- 2022

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: 2 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 4 places available

June 2–23: 1 place available (pending FULL)

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 4 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  (pending 5 places available)

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Denali 2022 Expedition Availability Update

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: 3 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 5 places available (pending 4 places available)

June 2–23: 1 place available (pending FULL)

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 5 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: 3 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 5 places available (pending 4 places available)

June 2–23: 6 places available (pending 1 place available)

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 5 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Denali 2022 Expedition Availability Update

The Great Gorge - Alaska Range: painting by: Leighan Falley AK Range pilot and past AMS guide!

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 5 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: 3 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13:  FULL

May 30–June 20: 5 places available (pending 4 places available)

June 2–23: 6 places available (pending 1 place available)

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 5 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Denali 2022 Expedition Availability Update!

Alaska Range Painting by Leighan Falley, "Yenta Glacier Olives"

 Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre- climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$11,500.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26: 6 places available

May 9–30: 6 places available

May 12–June 2: 6 places available

May 16–June 6: 4 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13:  1 place available

May 30–June 20: 5 places available

June 2–23: 6 places available

June 6–27: 5 places available

June 13–July 4: 5 places available

June 16–July 7: 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

Celebrating 25 years of leadership!

2021 has been a special year for lots of reasons.  We all are humbled by the COVID rollercoaster we have been riding since spring 2020. So we are beyond pleased to report that AMS had exactly ZERO cases of COVID this spring and summer.

2021 has been extra special for AMS, this year marks 25 years of leadership with Caitlin Palmer and Colby Coombs. It's been a wonderful journey since starting AMS in a one-room dry cabin at the end of Main Street in Downtown Talkeetna in 1996.

Our history dates back to 1983 when Diane and Brian Okonek began Alaska-Denali Guiding, Inc. (ADG) to offer guided Denali Expeditions on the West Buttress route. As adventurers, climbers, and guides, they were lucky enough to create a small business and share their love of the Alaska Range.  

In 1985, Colby Coombs climbed Denali with ADG and Brian Okonek and was hooked on the Alaska Range for life. In 1994 Caitlin Palmer moved to Talkeetna and climbed Denali with a small women's team to raise funds for an Anchorage hospital imaging center. The two met in Talkeetna in 1995 and started a lifetime of adventure. After years of outdoor pursuits for work and play, in 1996 Alaska Mountaineering School (AMS) was begun with expeditions in the Talkeetna Mountains, the Alaska Range's Mt. Hunter, and on South America's highest peak, Aconcagua. 

In 2001, ADG was sold to Colby and Caitlin, and AMS began guiding Denali expeditions with smaller six-person teams on the mountain. AMS moved out of its one-room cabin and has been at the same location on Third Street in Talkeetna, Alaska for 20 years.  We are honored to be going strong and take pride in improving in both big and small ways each year.  

Here's to the next twenty! 

Colby on the Fixed lines, Denali West Buttress.

Caitlin with AMS climbers on Aconcagua 

Our Final Trip of 2021!

Guide Josh Hoeschen and John Allen departing for Red Mountain on August 14th

We were happy to receive this photo this morning from our final, scheduled trip of 2021!  AMS guide Josh Hoeschen and John Allen have completed a custom climb of Red Mountain on the north side of Denali National Park. 

All smiles to wrap up a great season!

 

Denali Guides getting after it this season in the Alaska Range

On Monday, AMS guide, Michael Gardner was published in Alpinist Magazine. 

This trio of young men are on the top of their climbing game and what's best, they are exceptional human beings. We are proud to have Michael and Adam on the guide team here at AMS, Sam is a regular here at AMS HQ and works an occational special contract with AMS as well. 

It's been wonderful to be a part of the many years of learning and growth that it takes for these talented athletes to achieve their epic climbing goals. 

 Here's a link to the article, happy reading: http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web21c/newswire-mike-gardner-spring-2021-alaska-trip

Photo: M. Gardner Collection: Mt. Hunter

2022 Denali Expedition Availability

Prior planning is a good thing. 

Start training and planning your climbs now for a 2022 Denali Expedition in May or June.

We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of next week.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13,  1 place available

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

12-Day Mountaineering Course on the Pika Glacier

 

Sunset on the Pika Glacier 

Students on the 12-day mountaineering course with lead instructor, Chris Miller, and instructor in training, Matt Berry have been busy! They've trad climbed, moved their camp, and focused on classroom learning when the Alaska Range delivered stormy weather. Spirits are high for this end-of-season group. 

Custom Ski Mountaineering Program Launched!

Deane and Clay, a father-son duo headed to the Pika Glacier with guide Eric Roberts for a couple of days of ski touring. They are celebrating their 26th consecutive month of skiing this month! 

Guide Eric Roberts with Clay & Deane 

2022 Denali Expedition Availability

Denali from the air, we fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi for the majority of our Alaska Range climbs and programs.

 

AMS is thrilled to announce our 2022 Denali expedition dates!  Places are filling more quickly than normal.

We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of July 2021.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000, due to inflation. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, FULL

May 23–June 13,  1 place available

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

A Beautiful, Sunny Launch Day!

A Beautiful, Sunny Launch Day!

 This morning we sent off a 5 Day Custom Mountaineering Course with instructors Fallon Connolly and Ayla Crosby.  This amazing team of nurses and instructors flew to the Pika Glacier to work on furthering their rock climbing, glacier travel, and mountaineering skills.

Fallon (instructor), Elan, Kayley, Jackie, Ayla (instructor)

This afternoon was bittersweet as we sent off our final 12 Day Mountaineering Course of the 2021 season.  The team was ready to hustle to the Pika Glacier, as Talkeetna was definitely feeling like summer- and they were finding themselves overdressed in their glacier gear. Instructors Chris Miller and Matt Berry seamlessly guided the group through gear checks and packing, and they all departed with big smiles and lots of enthusiasm!

Matt (instructor), Chris, Danny, Lindsay, Liz, Chris (instructor)

AMS updates from the Alaska Range - sunny day!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2  is doing well and enjoying their time on the glacier. Yesterday, they had a good day and climbed up to a high pass for increased vistas and to plan out their next few days. They planned to be climbing today. 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, Jessica and guide Jeremiah Phelps are very happy for some sun. They will be taking every advantage of the good weather and climbing as much as possible, this small and experienced team is ready for action!

6 Day Mountaineering Course - July 7 is doing well on the glacier, this course has gone by quickly! Instructor Jake Kayes reported last night: "We're doing great! We got 5 inches of snow last night and were treated to sunshine today! We had a busy snow school today and are getting ready to move camp." 

All three AMS teams are at different locations on the Pika Glacier, a glacier tributary that flows into the Kahiltna Glacier, within Denali National Park and Preserve.

Crevasse rescue practice is a key component of our 6 Day and 12 Day courses.  

Denali 2022 Date Release and Availability

Approx 16,800' on Denali's West Buttress

AMS is thrilled to announce our 2022 Denali expedition dates!  

We are accepting applications and will be releasing our prices by the end of July 2021.  

Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2022

Expedition price includes; small team size, NPS climber fees, 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and more.

$TBD we expect that prices may increase slightly from the 2021 price of  $11,000, due to inflation. 

22 days 

Maximum team size: 6 climbers, 3 guides 

May 5–26, 6 places available

May 9–30, 6 places available

May 12–June 2, 6 places available

May 16–June 6, 5 places available

May 19–June 9, 2 places available

May 23–June 13, FULL

May 30–June 20, 5 places available

June 2–23, 6 places available

June 6–27, 5 places available

June 13–July 4, 6 places available

June 16–July 7, 6 places available  

 Find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you. 

AMS Updates from the Alaska Range

Denali 6/17 - Severis  The break in the weather arrived for the team, and they were flown from basecamp yesterday evening!  This marks the return of our final Denali Expedition of 2021, and we will be sad to say goodbye to Greg, Teddy, Mike, and Brad. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2  Despite some wet weather yesterday, the group hasn't skipped a beat and is making the best of it by having skills classes in their "classroom tent".  They had some clearing last night and today and went out into the surrounding glacier and mountains to enjoy the day! 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, Jessica and guide Jeremiah Phelps are taking in the incredible beauty of the Pika glacier! Today they had a great time ski touring!

Photo by Allen Dahl on the Pika Glacier 2019

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

6 Day Mountaineering Course - TEAM PHOTO!

The July 7, 6 Day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes, Fallon Connnoly, and Naomi Boyles-Muehleck had an excellent day packing up and getting ready for their course yesterday at AMS. The clouds parted for them and they were able to fly into the Alaska Range to begin their adventure on time!

 

Back Row: Jeff, Instructor: Fallon, Annie, Instructor Naomi, Julie, David, Gabriella, Jackie, Heidi
Front Row: Instructor: Jake and Vance

 

AMS Update from the Kahiltna and Pika Glacier - cloudy today

 Denali 6/17 - Severis will spending another night at Kahiltna Basecamp airstrip.  They remain in high spirits, building snow forts and snowmen!  We continue to hope for a break in the weather tomorrow. Talkeetna Air Taxi is closely watching the weather, and has up-to-date weather conditions, so they will pick them up when a safe opportunity becomes available. They are warm and dry and have plenty of food, fuel, and good company. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 is making the most of the wet weather and enjoying their classes and cooking some excellent glacier meals already!

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps are well, they are camped about a mile from the other AMS team on the Pika Glacier and continue to enjoy the glacier mountain life.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Glacier Travel in the clouds. 

Evening Update From AMS - it's a weathery day.

Denali 6/17 - Severis will spending another night in the mountains. It is snowing in the Alaska Range and not safe to fly today. We will hope for a break in the weather tomorrow so we can welcome them back. They have plenty of food, fuel, and good company. 

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 enjoyed their day traveling on the Pika Glacier (aka Little Switzerland) and they got the hang of roped glacier travel after several miles of travel today. It was raining today but they are in excellent spirits and enjoyed more classes in their camp on the glacier. 

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps reviewed skills on the glacier and are enjoying being among the granite peaks on the Pika Glacier. 

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

AMS Course on the Pika Glacier in self-made luxury snow kitchen! 

AMS UPDATE from Denali, Course, and Custom Climbing Trip

Happy Fourth of July: We wish you a safe a pleasant weekend as you pursue your happiness.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are in good spirits today. Yesterday the wind was very high above high camp. The team made the decision to come down from high camp. Last night they climbed down the Kahiltna Glacier through the night and are now at Basecamp Airpstrip -waiting to fly back to Talkeetna! Currently, they are waiting on the weather to clear. There are some clouds and showers preventing the aircraft from flying right now.

12 Day Mountaineering Course - July 2 flew into the Alaska Range early yesterday morning. They were excited to get the call from the  Talkeetna Air Taxi to fly in on the beautifully clear and calm day. We know this group will have a wonderful course.

Custom Climbing Program with Chris, and Jessica, and guide Jeremiah Phelps flew in yesterday morning to the Pika Glacier for 12 days of climbing and orientation to the Alaska Range, to include: glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, and so much more.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Mountaineering in the Alaska Range. Photo by Eric Roberts.

12 Day Mountaineering Course GROUP PHOTO

The July 2 - 12 Day Mountaineering Course began yesterday...with gear check, food packing, fixed-line practice, and the Talkeetna airport shuffle: aka hurry up and wait - which resulted in the "Talkeetna Hang" last night and today. The weather is still cloudy today and the airplanes still have not been able to land on the glacier today. The course is planning on going to take place on the Pika Glacier, which is a tributary of the Kahiltna Glacier, deep within the Alaska Range.

Today they have been busy reviewing skills and classes in Talkeetna today at AMS, and are doing very well. They have been so busy, and are SUCH a nice group!

Instructor Eric with Andrew, Tom, Beb, Parker, Martin, Nicole, Jack, Instructor: Ben
Instructor Katie (sitting)

AMS Denali Teams Update

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen returned from Kahiltna Glacier last night and will be spending the next week or two catching up on their sleep and calories. Congratulations to this wonderful team! 

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well resting at 17,200 feet high camp again today.  The winds have been up and it has been snowing on them a bit, so they are waiting for a good summit day. We are hopeful that tomorrow they will have a break in the weather and that it will be their day!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Life and times during a storm system at high camp on Denali: shovel, eat, shovel, hot drinks, read, shovel, hot drinks, sleep, repeat...

AMS Denali Expeditions Update

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved down to 14,200 this afternoon and plan to rest and reorganize gear there until early in the morning. They plan to descend further tonight and may be at Kahiltna Basecamp tomorrow morning!

Denali 6/15 - Willms returned to Talkeetna this morning, they look really great.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well, they climbed up the headwall / fixed lines and along the ridge between 16,200 feet and 17,200 feet reach high camp today.  It was a beautiful day for this climb upwards.  They plan to rest tomorrow then will make an attempt for the summit when the weather allows.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

High Camp on Denali at 17,200 feet

AMS Denali Expedition Update - another summit day!

Summit Ridge of Denali, photo by AMS Guide Eric Roberts

 Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen reached the top of North America, Denali's summit 20,310 - feet at approximately 5:15PM local time today. The day has been perfect for them and they are pleased with their decision to wait out yesterday at high camp. Well done team. We expect to hear from them this evening when they return to high camp. It generally takes about 4 hours to make the descent to high camp from the summit.  

Denali 6/15 - Willms descended to camp at 14,200 feet this afternoon. They will rest, snack, hydrate while they repack their backpacks and sleds for several hours. They plan to continue to climb down toward Kahiltna Base Camp overnight and we expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow if the weather cooperates with flying.

Denali 6/17 - Severis are doing well at 14,200 feet. They plan to move to high camp tomorrow or take a rest day.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

AMS Denali Update - all is well June 29 and a summit day!

  - oops we mistakenly overwrote yesterday's post today... Thanks for your patience - all is well this is for June 29:

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at high camp today. They look forward to summiting tomorrow if the weather allows. It wasn't quite good enough for the team to make their move upwards today. 

Denali 6/15 - Willms are going for the summit today. They waited in camp for high-altitude winds to decrease, so we expect to hear from them this evening with a report.  - Update! They summitted and are now back in camp - Hooray!

Denali 6/17 - Severis enjoyed the day at 14,200 feet today - the weather was very nice, so they had some excellent naps, snacks, and lots of water to hydrate for the days of climbing they have ahead. They will review fixed lines and several technical skills at 14,200 feet prior to moving up in the next few days.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

View from high camp on Denali's, West Buttress, looking to the south West at Mt. Foraker and at the 14,200-foot camp below.

AMS Denali Expedition Update- sunny skies today

Denali  6/3 - Bunch returned to Talkeetna yesterday! We were very happy to see them after their expedition, what a great team! 

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved up the headwall/fixed lines, along the ridge from 16,200 feet and into 17,200, high camp, today. The weather is clear with some mild winds.

Denali 6/15 - Willms remain at high camp at 17,200 feet today. It is clear with light winds at high camp, but above them, it is very windy, too much for a summit attempt today. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis cached at 13,500' Windy Corner today. They report a beautiful day and plan to move to the camp at 14,200- feet tomorrow. This is a big day and they are looking forward to it!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 has returned to Talkeetna on schedule today! They now are happily unpacked and currently enjoying lunch at one of Talkeetna's local restaurants, a short walk from AMS HQ.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Archive AMS photo of tents at high camp, 17,200 feet within snow walls and tied down in anticipation of high winds... 

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - weather everywhere

Denali  6/3 - Bunch remains in Basecamp at 7,200 ft today.  Their spirits remain fine as they were a big help getting glacier runway ready for incoming flights it was a lot of work stomping since a foot of wet snow fell last night. We remain hopeful that we will see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen stayed in the 14,200-foot camp today. They are doing just fine as they shovel, eat, nap, read, and repeat...

Denali 6/15 - Willms are patiently waiting at high camp at 17,200 feet, for a good weather window. They are doing well as they wait, the winds weren't oppressively strong today, but it's not calm enough to make their move upward. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis stayed in camp 11,200-feet today as it was too snowy and windy once again to make a carry. They are doing fine and will be ready when the weather improves!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

AMS Denali Expedition and 12 Day Mountaineering Course Update

Denali  6/3 - Bunch is in Basecamp at 7,200 ft and is awaiting the weather to clear to fly back to Talkeetna.   It was completely cloudy and rained on them today, so they set up their tents and reamain in good spirits. We are hopeful that we will see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at the 14,200-foot camp today in a rather windy and snowy day. They were planning on a rest day so it is perfect timing for this (predicted) short storm day.  

Denali 6/15 - Willms is napping and reading at 17,200 ft. today. This sounds rather luxurious, but nothing is easy at 17,200 feet. Their bodies are doing double duty as they are acclimating to the new altitude. They are patiently awaiting a good weather window, and have plenty of time.  

Denali 6/17 - Severis rested in camp 11,200-feet today as it was too snowy and windy to make a carry. They are feeling strong and ready when the weather improves, possibly tomorrow afternoon...

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 led by Kirby Senden, Chris Miller, and Ayla Crosby is been having a great time. Yesterday they went rock climbing on a feature called the footstool and everyone had a lot of fun! Today they moved camp back up toward the glacier airstrip / pick up point and location for the base of a nearby mixed snow and rock climb peak ascent!

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Climbing on Denali, West Buttress's ridge between 16,200 feet and 17,200 feet.
The photo was taken from an airplane passing overhead.

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - a good day for travel!

Denali  6/3 - Bunch has departed 14,200-foot camp and is en route toward Basecamp. They will at 11,200 feet for a few hours for a long nap and wake to travel on the lower glacier in the early hours to take advantage of the cooler temperatures.  We expect to see them back in Talkeetna, tomorrow morning, as the weather allows.  

Denali 6/7 - Phelps returned to Talkeetna this morning.

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen moved up to the 14,200-foot camp today. They are happy to be at a new elevation. Tomorrow, depending on how they feel and the weather they will either rest at 14,200 ft. tomorrow or carry gear, food, and fuel up the headwall to 16,200 feet.

Denali 6/15 - Willms moved up the headwall / fixed lines, along the ridge, and into high camp at 17,200 ft. today. Depending on how they feel and the weather, they may try for the summit as soon as tomorrow; they have plenty of time.  Jesse, with Guide Scott, and Clark are having a great climb together.

Denali 6/17 - Severis rested in camp 11,200-feet today and plan to carry to Windy Corner tomorrow at 13,500 ft. They are doing well and enjoying the good weather.

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

High camp on Denali, 17,200 feet.  The ridge between 16,200 and 17,200 can also be clearly seen in this photo.

Setting up camp at 14,200 feet on Denali

The light in the middle of the night is beyond beautiful. At appox. 12,000 feet

Update from AMS TEAMS on Denali and Pika Glacier

Denali  6/3 - Bunch rested at 14,200-foot camp today and plan to rest there again tomorrow. We expect to see them back in Talkeetna, on THURSDAY morning.  

 Denali 6/7 - Phelps descended from 17,200 ft. high camp this morning and are currently resting at 11,200-foot camp before continuing to descend toward basecamp at 7,200 feet in the early hours of the morning. We may see them back in Talkeetna as early as tomorrow, Wednesday morning.  

Denali 6/14 - Hoeschen rested at 11,200 feet again today. They are fine and looking forward to moving up to the 14,200-foot camp tomorrow. They will be ready! 

Denali 6/15 - Willms rested and reviewed skills for the fixed lines today at 14,200 feet as planned. The weather is fine and they are enjoying acclimating to this higher altitude. They look forward to either carrying up the headwall to 16,200 feet or moving camp higher tomorrow, depending on how they feel and the weather. 

Denali 6/17 - Severis moved to a new camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at 11,200 feet today and they are excited to be in a new location!

12 Day Mountaineering Course - 6/16 went climbing today! 

Check out mountain-forecast.com to follow the forecast.

Photo from Talkeetna Air Taxi Denali summit flight yesterday! This shows several climbers between 19,600 feet and 20,000 feet. The summit is just out of the photo to the left.