4/26-5/7 12 day MTC Update

AMS instructor Elliot Gaddy phoned in from the Pika Glacier this morning and updated us about the courses progress.
They are currently camped between the Royal Tower (to the south) and Italy's Boot (to the north). Today they are going through crevasse rescue and rope rescue systems curriculum and planning another camp move.
Moving camp is heavily emphasized on AMS courses.  Learning to pack up, move efficiently, set camp back up and be not only comfortable, but to have fun while doing it is an essential mountaineering skill.  It sound like these students are learning a lot!
Their plan is to move to "Hamburger Hill" and continue classes there.

The team's location in the Pika

Crevasse rescue haul systems training

4/24 Custom Moose's Tooth, Eroh Returns

AMS Guide Dusty Eroh and  climber Chris returned from their climbing adventure.  The team was due out yesterday but lots of clouds and snow gave them an extra day.

Last night they felt an earthquake.  It was the first time Chris experienced an earthquake.  Another part of the adventure for Chris to share. Four of five U.S. earthquakes occur in Alaska. But they often are overlooked because most occur in remote regions.

Drying gear

Dusty hanging gear

Chris connecting with home

4/24 Custom Climb Moose's Tooth Update

AMS guide Dusty Eroh checked in this morning from the Root Canal Glacier. He reported lots of snow and clouds. So no flight out for the team today. They are in good spirits and reported that they spent yesterday ski touring and making some turns. They will continue on that standby program today drinking coffee, and making ski laps.

A view of the Moose's Tooth and the Root Canal Glacier on a clear day.

4/16 Mountaineering Course Update

We herd from Nate Emerson on the Pike this morning. He reported that it is dumping snow, that everyone is have a good time, and a lot of classes are getting taught. Our instructors will use weather like this to their advantage teaching classes such as whiteout navigation, map and compass skills, and GPS.  These skills are essential in mountaineering, and nothing beats training in real conditions.

Studens on a past Pika mountaineering course training in a whiteout.

A view of mount Foraker from the Pika glacier on a clear day.

AMS Expedition Availability

Our first Denali Expedition launches next week! We still have some spaces available, come join us for the adventure of a lifetime.

Denali, West  Buttress Expedition

$8,300, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

May 4- May 25            FULL

* May 7- May 28         1 space available,  * led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

May 11-June 1             FULL

May 14- June 4            FULL

May 18- June 8            1 space available

May 21-June 11           5 spaces available

May 25- June 15          6 spaces available

May 28- June 18          FULL

June 4- June 25            1 space available

June 8- June 29            FULL

* June 11- July 2          FULL, * led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

June 15- July 6             FULL          

June 18- July 9             3 spaces available

June 22- July 13           6 spaces available

June 25- July 16           4 spaces available

**May 31- June 21      1 space available, custom small team: 5 person expedition: $9,200.00, looking for 1 more climber, inquiry for more information

16 Ridge photo by Josh Hoeschen

4/26 AMS 12 day Mountaineering Course- Gaddy

AMS 12 day mountaineering course led by Elliot Gaddy, Nate Emerson, and Jake Kayes departed in the early evening hours of April 26 for the Pika Glacier in the Alaska Range with Talkeetna Air Taxi. We are confident this crew is going to have an awesome time as their energy was positive and fun throughout gear check, packing glacier lunches, learning knots and practicing ascending out of a crevasse. The mosquitos have already arrived in town, but these students are now away from the biting insects and immersed in the beauty of the remote glaciers and mountains. The Pika has views of grand rock walls and Mt. Foraker.  

Jumping challenge accepted! From L: guide Nate Emerson, guide Jake Kayes, Scott Beil, Ange Meinzinger, Eiry Bartlett, KJ Johnson, Ryan Connors, David O'Rear, John Pike, and guide Elliot Gaddy

AMS guide Jake Kayes teaching a knots class that eventually progresses to a crevasse rescue class on the glacier

AMS guides Jake Kayes and Elliot Gaddy all geared up and ready to roll

4/24 Custom Climb Moose's Tooth Update

AMS Guide, Dusty Eroh just checked in via inReach text. Dusty and Chris had an alpine start last night (2:00am) and got on Ham and Eggs.  They had great climbing till just past the crux of the route.
Weather moved in and they decided to head back down.  They are relaxing and recharging in camp and scheming about what to do next.

Chris and Dusty's camp location on the Root Canal

A very nice day in the Root Canal

The Teeth Massif from the Ruth Gorge.  The Moose's Tooth looming large in the background

4/24 AMS Custom Moose's Tooth Climb with Chris Pagoda and Dusty Eroh

AMS guide Dusty Eroh and climber Chris Pagoda flew to the Moose's Tooth in the Ruth Gorge about dinner time on 4/25 after a one day delay that was spent teaching classes and utilizing AMS climbing gym. They are going to have a great time out there.

AMS guide Dusty Eroh and climber Chris Pagoda 

AMS guide Dusty Eroh and climber Chris Pagoda keeping the psyche up despite some cloudy weather

Chris Pagoda excited to be loading up at Talkeetna Air Taxi after one day delay

AMS crew enjoying the view with TAT pilot Richard 

AMS Expedition Availability

Alpenglow on Denali photo taken from the Alaska Range's Glacier One by guide Dustin English on a recent Mountaineering Course

We are excited that our season is getting into full swing. Guides are busy in the medical protocol refresher and technical trainings, and the trees are starting to bud. Basecamp will be set-up at the end of this month, here we go!

If you are trained and want a great summer challenge,  join us on a Denali Expedition!

Denali, West  Buttress Expedition

$8,300, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

May 4- May 25            FULL

* May 7- May 28         1 space available,  * led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

May 11-June 1             FULL

May 14- June 4            FULL

May 18- June 8            2 space available

May 21-June 11           5 spaces available

May 25- June 15          5 spaces available

May 28- June 18          FULL

June 4- June 25            1 space available

June 8- June 29            2 spaces available

* June 11- July 2          FULL, * led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

June 15- July 6             FULL          

June 18- July 9             3 spaces available

June 22- July 13           6 spaces available

June 25- July 16           4 spaces available

**May 31- June 21      1 space available, custom small team: 5 person expedition: $9,200.00, looking for 1 more climber, inquiry for more information

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course, English returns

AMS Instructor Dustin English and students returned from Glacier One today.  The weather was great and they learned many new skills.

The team is busy unpacking gear and enjoying the beautiful spring weather.

David and Sarah unpacking

David, Sarah and AMS instuctor Dustin English

AMS Expedition Availability

We are excited that our season is getting into full swing!  Guides will be arriving Sunday for annual guide training, we looking forward to seeing them.  Our 6 Day Mountaineering Course will return Saturday from Glacier 1.

If you want a great summer vacation join us on a Denali Expedition!

Denali, West  Buttress Expedition

$8,300, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

* led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

April 30- May 21         6 spaces available       

May 4- May 25            FULL

* May 7- May 28         1 space available

May 11-June 1             FULL

May 14- June 4            FULL

May 18- June 8            2 space available

May 21-June 11           5 spaces available

May 25- June 15          5 spaces available

May 28- June 18          FULL

May 31- June 21          6 spaces available

June 4- June 25            1 space available

June 8- June 29            2 spaces available

* June 11- July 2          FULL

June 15- July 6             FULL          

June 18- July 9             4 spaces available

June 22- July 13           6 spaces available

June 25- July 16           4 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides, 22 days

June 2-23                      4 spaces available

Foraker,  Sultana Ridge

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides,  22 days

April 29- May 20          4 spaces available 

Guide Training Snow Scenario 

Climbers descending from 16 ridge

4/17 Mountaineering Course Update

Lead instuctor, Dustin English from the six day Mountaineering Course on Glacier One, Alaska Range texted in to us at the HQ via satellite phone late last night.

"Hey there, all good here. We climbed a peak and did crevasse rescue today. We are moving camp near Fake Peak tomorrow, the crew is psyched."

The team has been graced with wonderfully clear weather and good travel conditions.

We look forward to wecloming the team back on Saturday afternoon!

A previous AMS Mountianeering Course campsite in the Alaska Range.

AMS 6 day Mountaineering Course, English 4/17

AMS guide Dustin English departed today on a glorious Alaskan spring day with two students that traveled great distances from Australia and one from multiple around the world destinations for their first time to Alaska. This lucky small crew landed on Glacier One in the Alaska Range on a skied plane to start their 6 days of learning the ins and outs of living on a glacier. The views should be incredible with the clear weather and we look forward to hearing updates.

AMS guide Dustin teaching fixed line ascension technique that is used to get out of a crevasse fall

AMS team starting L guide Dustin, Sarah, and David 

Expedition Availability

We are enjoying the great weather. We are looking forward to our first expedition. We still have spaces available, and would love to have you join a team!

Denali, West  Buttress Expedition

$8,300, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

* led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

April 30- May 21         6 spaces available       

May 4- May 25            1 space available

* May 7- May 28         FULL

May 11-June 1             FULL

May 14- June 4            FULL

May 18- June 8            2 space available

May 21-June 11           5 spaces available

May 25- June 15          5 spaces available

May 28- June 18          FULL

May 31- June 21          6 spaces available

June 4- June 25            1 space available

June 8- June 29            2 spaces available

* June 11- July 2          FULL

June 15- July 6             FULL          

June 18- July 9             4 spaces available

June 22- July 13           6 spaces available

June 25- July 16           4 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides, 22 days

June 2-23                      4 spaces available

Foraker,  Sultana Ridge

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides,  22 days

April 29- May 20          4 spaces available 

We welcomed our 6 Day Mountaineering Course students back on Thursday.

AMS 6 Mountaineering Course, Cleary 4/8

The weather is prefect to be launching our first Mountaineering Course of the season.  Led by AMS Guides Beth Cleary, Chelsea Bomba.  The team is heading to Glacier One for a great time!

The students enjoyed looking around Talkeetna last night!

Katelyn, Kirstie, Naomi, Amanda, Eve, Ana
photo by Eliza Earle

 A happy team ready to fly!

Expedition Availability

All of our winter organization is paying off.  We are preparing to launch our first Mountaineering Course of the season.  Guides are busy packing and preparing for students to arrive tomorrow at 8:00 AM.

We are looking forward to a great climbing season!

Denali, West  Buttress Expedition

$8,300, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

* led by Mike Hamill, $8,500, 6 climbers and 2-3 guides, 22 days

April 30- May 21         6 spaces available       

May 4- May 25            1 space available

* May 7- May 28         FULL

May 11-June 1             FULL

May 14- June 4            FULL

May 18- June 8            2 space available

May 21-June 11           6 spaces available

May 25- June 15          5 spaces available

May 28- June 18          FULL

May 31- June 21          6 spaces available

June 4- June 25            1 space available

June 8- June 29            2 spaces available

* June 11- July 2          FULL

June 15- July 6             6 spaces available          

June 18- July 9             4 spaces available

June 22- July 13           6 spaces available

June 25- July 16           4 spaces available

Denali Full West Rib

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides, 22 days

June 2-23                      4 spaces available

Foraker,  Sultana Ridge

$9500, 4 climbers and 2 guides,  22 days

April 29- May 20          4 spaces available