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| AMS climbers descend the 16,000-foot ridge. |
The days are growing shorter and we have had the first northern lights! Our office is open Monday through Friday to take phone calls and emails and help you plan your 2027 adventure.
Thursday, June 30, 2022
Today's News from AMS Teams on Denali - June 30
Wednesday, June 29, 2022
Whoo Hoo! Denali June 13th Team - have a 2nd summit day - June 29
DENALI 2022 continues to impress - what a really amazing season it has been for climbers.
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| The Summit of Denali, 20,310 feet, 6190 meters, is the highest point in North America. |
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch with climber Rawan and fellow guide Mary stood on the top of North America at approximately 6:14 PM local time! Congratulations! Rawan woke this morning feeling much improved so she and Mary and Chris decide to go for it. What a superhuman effort these climbers put forth today and we are thrilled for them all. They had wonderful weather and climbed up in a strong and efficient way. They are making their way down to the 17,200-foot camp now, and tomorrow they will make their way down to the camp at 14,200 feet. from there they will band together with ❄️ June 16 Team Grace to descend toward basecamp. Depending on the weather and conditions on the lower glacier, we could see them all in Talkeetna as soon as Friday, July st. |
Tuesday, June 28, 2022
AMS Denali, West Buttress Expedition Update- SUMMIT DAY!
DENALI 2022 continues to impress - what a really amazing season it has been for climbers.
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| The Summit of Denali, 20,310 feet, 6190 meters, is the highest point in North America. |
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch is currently standing on the top of North America! Congratulations! Rawan was not feeling well on the ascent and wisely turned back with guide Mary Gianotti, she is resting and hydrating now at High Camp with Mary and she feels improved, we applaud smart decision-making out there - that is the biggest accomplishment of all. Everyone put in a fantastic effort today and we are so, so proud of them all. What an amazing day. We could see them in Talkeetna as soon as Friday, July 1st. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace is waiting at the 14,200-foot camp and plans to descend with the June 13th team to basecamp. The lower glacier is experiencing a good deal of weakening snow bridges and it is still very possible to reach basecamp; it will be the safest option to travel through that area with as many AMS people and guides as possible. When both teams band together they will have a total of 11 people, which is very handy and not too big. They will surely have a lot of fun and an adventure, and we will see them when the time is right. |
Monday, June 27, 2022
AMS Denali Teams Update - June 27
DENALI EXPEDITIONS
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch moved to high camp yesterday. This entails climbing up the steeper fixed lines to gain the West Buttress proper to the elevation of 16,200 feet. The route then goes along an exposed and very beautiful ridge line at which point they reach the high camp at 17,200 feet. Today they are taking a well-deserved rest day at high camp, plus the winds are too strong to make a summit attempt so it is all working out for them today. Previous AMS climbers returning to 14,200' camp. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace Made a strong effort to move up yesterday but instead turned back to the 14,200' camp. Yesterday included photos and relaxing in the early afternoon when they returned to camp. Climbing to 14,200 feet on Denali's West Buttress Route is a big accomplishment all its own. Today the team will make plans to climb down to basecamp and we look forward to welcoming this team back to Talkeetna, whenever the time is right. |
Saturday, June 25, 2022
AMS Update From The Mountains: Denali and 6 Day Mountaineering Course - June 25
It's been a very busy couple of days with our returning teams! We apologize for the delay in posts. When it comes to AMS mountain communications - no news really is good news - we promise!
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| Views from the 14,200' camp walk to "The Edge of the World"a short distance from camp. |
DENALI EXPEDITIONS
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch is doing well. They are enjoying life at 14,200' today and are taking a rest day. Yesterday they climbed up the fixed lines and along the ridge a short way to 16,400 feet, where they cached food, fuel, and gear in anticipation of their move to high camp. If the weather is good, they may move to high camp tomorrow. They are enjoying a very nice weather day up there today. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis moved to high camp and is taking an active rest day today. Today they will descend to pick up previously cached items at the Windy Corner area. Tomorrow they will either rest or climb higher to the top of the fixed lines for an acclimatization day. MOUNTAINEERING COURSES ❄️ June 20th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith has had a fantastic time in the Alaska Range. They are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna around noon today. the weather seems fine, with a fair bit of wildfire smoke in the air, but is still flyable and stable this morning. We look forward to seeing their photos and hearing their stories. |
Wednesday, June 22, 2022
June 21 and June 22 summer solstice update
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| AMS Kitchen - the AMS kitchen is a universal setup and works well from the Alaska Range to Antarctica! |
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| 20,310 feet, Denali's summit on the summer solstice. Photo from the AMS archives |
DENALI EXPEDITIONS
❄️ June 6 Denali Team led by Larry Holmgren Summited Denali yesterday! Congratulations to Larry and Alex, and what a special day to the summit on the summer solstice, the longest day of the year. They are making their way down to 14,200 feet today and we look forward to welcoming them back to Talkeetna within the next few days.
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch moved to the camp at 14,200 feet yesterday and are doing well. Today, they descended to pick up their previously cached items at 13,500' feet. They are enjoying a very nice weather day up there today. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis enjoyed the company of fellow climbers at 11,000 and today they carried to 13,500 feet, the Windy Corner area. MOUNTAINEERING COURSES ❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly has returned to Talkeetna and had a great time on the Pika Glacier for the past 6 days. ❄️ June 20th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith is enjoying a beautiful day on the Pika Glacier as they learn about snow camping, snow anchors, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue today.
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Monday, June 20, 2022
TEAMS RETURNED TO TALKEETNA!
❄️ June 1 - Kodiak Denali Team led by Nate Emerson
❄️ June 3 - Badr - Denali led by Brett Carroll
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden
Have all returned to Talkeetna and are settled into their lodging, and shuttles and are all enjoying the summer temperatures, a hot shower, hot food, and green trees.
We were thrilled to see their smiling faces and are so happy for them all they've all had some big adventures out there in the Alaska Range.
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| Great views on the Kahiltna s the Denali Teams return to Kahitlna Basecamp. |
AMS DENALI TEAMS and MOUNTAINEERING COURSES - June 20 Update
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| 20,310 feet, Denali's summit on the summer solstice. Photo from the AMS archives |
DENALI EXPEDITIONS
❄️ June 6 Denali Team led by Larry Holmgren Departed high camp today and then turned back to camp, they will give it another shot when the time is right. The weather is sunny with no wind up there today. So they called it an active rest day.
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch carried to Windy Corner today and they felt good moving up to higher elevations. They plan to move to the camp at 14,200 feet tomorrow. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis is doing great! They moved to the 11,000-foot camp today and are very happy and enjoying the beautiful weather and terrain. MOUNTAINEERING COURSES ❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly is doing very well on the glacier, they are getting lots of classes covered and enjoying the terrain in the Pika Glacier. ❄️ June 20th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith flew in this afternoon on time, they are on the Pika Glacier for the next 6 days!
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6 day Mountaineering Course has begun!
The June 20, 6-Day Mountaineering Course has begun!
This wonderful team had a perfect start today in Talkeetna and were off on time to the airport to fly with Talkeetna Air Taxi onto the Pika Glacier. They are a really kind group and will make the most of these six days in the Alaska Range.
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| Fine tuning! |
Sunday, June 19, 2022
AMS DENALI TEAMS and MOUNTAINEERING COURSES - June 19 Update
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| NPS image of commonly used camps on Denali's West Buttress. |
❄️ June 6 Denali Team led by Larry Holmgren are taking a well-deserved rest day today at High Camp 17,200'. Great work up there Larry, Alex, and Gerhard!
❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch carried toward Windy Corner today, and tonight they will sleep at the 11,000-foot camp. There has been some light snowfall in camp, which is a welcome sight. Tomorrow they plan to move to 14,200' if the weather allows. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis moved to 9,200 feet tonight, and report that all is well! COURSES ON THE PIKA GLACIER ❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden is doing really well, today they are making snow shelters, packing up, and savoring their last full day in the Alaska Range. We look forward to seeing them tomorrow, back in Talkeetna if the weather allows. ❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly is loving life in the Alaska Range, classes included: glacier travel and crevasse rescue, roping up for glacier travel, and a hike to a nearby vista.
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AMS Denali Teams at Basecamp: Update - waiting on the weather
❄️ June 1 - Kodiak Denali Team led by Nate Emerson
| Life at Kahiltna Basecamp is a pretty nice place to wait for the weather... |
Saturday, June 18, 2022
AMS- All TEAMS UPDATE- All is well.
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| Camp at 11,000 feet on the West Buttress of Denali |
❄️ June 1 - Kodiak Denali Team led by Nate Emerson
| High Camp on Denali, Photo: Dylan Miller |
❄️ June 6 Denali Team led by Larry Holmgren has moved to 17, 200' feet - High Camp. They had a big camp-building party with Team Julie and are happy about the camaraderie!
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden is doing well on the Pika Glacier! ❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch moved up to the 11,000-foot camp tonight/ early tomorrow morning as planned. They are doing great up there! ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis moved to the 7,800-foot camp early this morning and rested as much as possible all afternoon. They plan to move higher between 9,200-9,800 feet tonight, all is well. ❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly are doing well on the Pika Glacier where they are experiencing the big mountains and working out their systems for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. |
Friday, June 17, 2022
June 17 - All AMS Teams Update!
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| The fixed lines at approx. 15,800 feet and 14,200' camp in the distance. |
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden moved camp back to the pick-up location on the glacier and planned to review more technical glacier travel and crevasse rescue systems. Tomorrow they are planning a peak ascent. they are doing well up there and are enjoying the sunny weather! ❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch moved up to 9,200 feet tonight/ early tomorrow morning as planned. They build a beautiful camp out of snow and are prepared for any weather that may come their way, and for the next camp, they will need to build as they move higher. ❄️ June 16 Team Grace - led by Con Severis flew into basecamp this afternoon on time. They are a great team, and ready to take each day as it comes up there! ❄️ June 17th Paoli Troop 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Fallon Connolly flew onto the Pika Glacier on schedule this afternoon. They were thrilled about the flight and to be on the glacier and in the Alaska Range! |
Paoli Scouts - 6 Day Mountaineering Course has begun!
This wonderful team of scouts and three leaders arrived at AMS last night, camped out, and had a busy day at the AMS HQ. Today they checked gear (and patiently waited for late luggage to arrive at the 11th hour), at lunch, and practiced fixed-line ascension all before flying on to the glacier with Talkeetna Air Taxi this afternoon. The first few days are very busy as they settle into their new routines on the glacier. They did wonderfully and are now busy setting up camp and building their new home away from home on the Pika Glacier.
This is a special team for AMS as the Paoli Troop joined us in the late 1990s for a course and we are thrilled to welcome them back. One of their founding members, Clifton Lisle is related to our co-founder Colby Coombs!
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| Ascending a fixed-line practice at AMS |
Denali June 16 - Team Grace Has Begun!
The Custom Denali Team with Grace has begun! Grace, with guides Taylor and Con, was very efficient with their time yesterday and today, and they flew in on schedule early this afternoon. They have flown onto the Kahiltn Glacier and plan to move in the cool temperatures tonight with classes and skills building along the way. Grace has just the right attitude toward this climb with a learning and mountain experience day-by-day approach. They are already having an excellent time together.
Wednesday, June 15, 2022
JUNE 16: All AMS Teams Update- All is well + WHOOP WHOOP a summit day!
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden are continuing to learn a lot and is having lots of good times on the Pika Glacier. Today they had a day of rock climbing! ❄️ June 13 Denali Team - led by Chris Welch traveled through the night and are at the 7,800 Camp, they traveled near a lot of crevasses, so the classes they did during their dealy in Talkeetna, really helped prepare them! Chris reports that they are a really strong group, and have excellent technical skills. They are looking forward to moving up to 9,800 feet tonight/ early tomorrow morning. |
June 13th- Denali, West Buttress- Welch
| Guide Chris, William, Duncan, Rawan, Guide Mary, Tomoya, Guide Meredith, Anna Mae, and Wesley. |
Tuesday, June 14, 2022
AMS TEAMS in the Alaska Range and on Denali - NOT a summit day at 20,310
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| Climbers at High Camp on Denali's West Buttress, 17,200' Photo: AMS Collection |
❄️ May 30 Team led by Jake Kayes are at Kahiltna Basecamp and will be sleeping there for the night. The weather prevented flying in or out of the mountains today. All is well as they wait. The weather was not severe, but fog and clouds made for low/no visibility on the airstrip, which is required for mountain flying - safety first.
❄️ June 1 - Kodiak led by Nate Emerson had another day at high camp at 17,200 feet today. This works out well as the winds were very high today above 17,200' so not a summit day. They watched several teams make an attempt today, they all turned back by very high winds above Denali Pass. They are doing an excellent job climbing smart and being patient up there.
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden is doing well on the Pika Glacier. Today they planned to move campsites to a location closer to climbing objectives. Breaking down and packing up camp, then roping up for glacier travel and selecting a new camp, and resetting up a new camp and kitchens take all day! The Alaska Range is an amazing place to learn these incredible skills and be immersed in the big mountains. |
Monday, June 13, 2022
AMS - All teams Update
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| The 16K Ridge on Denali's West Butress |
❄️ May 30 Team led by Jake Kayes will be making their way down to basecamp this evening, we look forward to welcoming them back to Talkeetna tomorrow!
❄️ May 26 Matt's Ski Team led by Adam Fabrikant has returned to Talkeetna, they are a happy bunch.❄️ June 1 - Kodiak led by Nate Emerson had a rest day at high camp at 17,200 feet today. This works out well as the winds were very high today above 17,200' so not a summit day.
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden is doing well on the Pika Glacier! |
Sunday, June 12, 2022
AMS - All teams update - a nice day in the mountains
❄️ May 30 Team led by Jake Kayes summited Denali 20,310' yesterday at 6:30 PM. They are heading down to 14,200' this afternoon to rest and regroup for the days ahead. CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL on this hardworking team!
❄️ June 1 - Kodiak led by Nate Emerson moved to high camp at 17,200 feet today. They brought extra supplies up with them to make an attempt on both the South and North Summits, a rare and beautiful thing. If they are feeling well and the weather is right, this is just the team to make it happen in the days ahead.
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| 11,000-foot camp on a busy day. |
Saturday, June 11, 2022
AMS-All Teams Update - May 30 Team went for the summit today!
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| An archive photo of an AMS summit team photo was taken from the air. |
❄️ May 30 Team led by Jake Kayes went for the summit today! All is well with them, they will be in touch with us with the details when they return to high camp.
❄️ May 26 Matt's Ski Team led by Adam Fabrikant remains at 14,200' enjoying the sunshine in the afternoons.
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| AMS Team departing 14,200', ready for an all-nighter - heading to basecamp Photo: Tom Torkelson |
❄️ June 9th 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Kirby Senden is on the Pika Glacier (aka Little Switzerland) They learned how to build snow anchors, glacier travel, and crevasse rescue skills today. they toured outside of camp and are really excited to be living in the Alaska Range. |
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