Report from the Field and AMS Headquarters

Another beautiful day here in Talkeetna and in the Mountains

Guides Mike Gardner and Cody Pitz flew into the range today with AMS alumni climber Kirstie Ennis and partner LP. On this custom climb their objective is the Mini Moonflower route on the face of Mount Hunter, located on the northeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.

Mike, Kirstie, Cody and LP almost
 ready to fly... we assume Mike changed his footwear!

Keith Sidle and Porter Crockard, aka Crockie , with Ashok and Shanta, are camped near the base of Mount Crosson. They plan to ascend a portion of the mountain tomorrow. Mount Crosson is named for Joe Crosson, a pioneer aviator who was the first person to land a plane on a glacier in Alaska in 1932! 

They are in a gorgeous setting!

Mount Crosson, 12,800 ft. Photo from AMS archives taken by Brian Okonek

MTC-6 Day with Blaine Smith and Curtis Green called in today with the following report:

"We are having a great time. Everybody is healthy and happy."

They plan on moving down glacier and working on crevasse rescue skills utilizing some natural crevasses. As these photos show, the Eldridge is a magnificent setting!!

Photo from 2019 Mountaineering Course, Taylor Bracher

Photo from 2019 Mountaineering Course, Taylor Bracher

MTC-12 Day Holmgren's team has made their basecamp on the Kahiltna. They will continue to climb and learn for the next two days. 

And here at Headquarters our first of two interns has arrived. Meet John Goeckermann. John is originally from Wisconsin but has lived in Juneau for the past three years, where he is attending the University of Alaska Southeast. He will be graduating at the end of the summer with a degree in Environmental Science and Outdoor Studies. We are happy to give him a stepping stone into his new career.

Intern, John Goeckermann is diving right into all that needs to be done at AMS HQ.

Report from the Field - April 28

12-Day Mountaineering Course with Holmgren and Fallon

The beautiful weather continued, and they made a peak ascent yesterday. Their plan is to travel back to Basecamp on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and undoubtedly take in some more beautiful scenery, climbing, and learning.

Annie's Ridge and moon. A classic scene from Basecamp (photo by Amanda Erickson)

Custom Climb is off to the Kahiltna Glacier

Our dedicated guides, Keith Sidle and Porter Crockard, have been diligently preparing for the climb. Today, they were joined by climbers Ashok and Shanta, and all flew out this afternoon. Their destination? The majestic Kahiltna Glacier, with a myriad of peaks, awaits them.

Ashtok, Shanta, Keith and Porter. Enough snow melted in front of our sign to take this photo!

Guide Greg Runyan and Barry returned yesterday and had an enjoyable time on Mount Frances and also enjoying the new basecamp tent on the Kahiltna. It has been nicknamed 'Thunderdome,' but we'll see if that sticks...

Kahiltna Base Camp Thunderdome tent... it is huge!

Barry admiring the view of the east ridge of Mount Francis.

April 6 Day Mountaineering Course has begun!

The April Six Day Mountaineering Course led by Blaine Smith and Curtis Green is underway!

This wonderful crew is comprised of rescuers from multiple government organizations.  As you can see, it was a perfect day to fly into the Eldridge Glacier, where they will spend the next 6 days learning skills, climbing peaks, and enjoying good company. 

 

Reports from AMS teams in the Alaska Range - April 26

The April 20 12-Day Mountaineering Course, led by Larry Holmgren and Fallon Connolly, is doing well. They are currently camped on the main flow of the mighty Kahiltna Glacier and plan to climb to a high point on the lower section of the SE ridge of Mt. Foraker tomorrow.  The views and terrain will be incredible. It's so much fun to explore all the hidden gems in the Alaska Range on our courses. 

Deep within the Alaska Range, the crevasse rescue class is part of AMS' core class offerings.

The Custom Climb with Barry, led by Greg Runyan, is loving it. Today, they climbed to the saddle of Mt. Frances, getting some incredible views and having fun climbing. They are currently back at Kahiltna Basecamp, enjoying the "AMS Thunderdome," a temporary kitchen and gathering dome tent that is space for all AMS teams coming and going from Kahiltna Basecamp.

Previous AMS climber on Mt. Frances, Kahiltna Glacier, Alaska Range, Denali National Park, and Preserve. 

AMS HQ was busy with guide and instructor teams unpacking, pre-packing for teams returning, and preparing to depart in the next few days. 

Report from the Field- April 25, 2024

Oakes - Custom Climb with Jordan

Jordan and Nadav arrived into town a day early.  They had incredible weather when they climbed Mini Moonflower and Bacon and Eggs. With weather reports showing some rain for their last day, they called it and returned to town under sunny skies. 

Frez-Albrecht - Custom Climb with Tim and Mike

Simon, Tim and Mike made the same call on flying out a day early.  They had a fantastic time and were really excited about some really nice ice climbing they were able to do.

MTC12- Holmgren

The group has decided against doing a traverse to the Pika glacier and they are settling in to work on their skills while they explore the west fork of the Kahiltna and climb Pizza Peak.

12 Day MTC from 2023 setting up kitchen tent in camp.

Report from the Field- April 24, 2024

 Emerson - Ski Mountaineering Course

The SKI-MTC course returned today with rosy and smiling faces! They reported great weather and fabulous ski conditions on the Buckskin Glacier.

MTC12- Holmgren

The group practiced an extensive crevasse rescue course yesterday. Everyone repelled down into a crevasse and did fixed-line ascension out of it. All is well, and they are really enjoying the fantastic weather! The team is on the main flow of the Kahiltna Glacier and is enjoying the travel and big views in the heart of the Alaska Range.

Oakes - Custom Climb with Jordan

Jordan and Nadav are enjoying the good weather they climbed Mini Moonflower today! They are really getting after it and taking advantage of the good weather! 

Frez-Albrecht - Custom Climb with Tim and Mike

Simon reports that the group had a semi-rest day today. They traveled up glacier and found some cragging on some "cool alpine ice". They will travel back to Basecamp tomorrow, we expect to see them in Talkeetna on Friday, as scheduled. 

April 24- Custom Climb- Runyan Has Begun!

Barry and Guide Greg

Barry is back, for a second year, to explore the Alaska Range with Guide Greg Runyan.   These two worked well together last year, and it was a relaxed morning as they prepped and packed.  They were both looking forward to climbing Radio Tower and Mt Francis on the Kahiltna Glacier!
 

Report from the Field - April 22, 2024

Lots going on out there with two courses and two custom climbs. The weather is fine and everyone is climbing and learning.

Emerson - Ski Mountaineering Course

They are camped on the Buckskin Glacier. This area is known for some great ski lines. They have been taking advantage of the bluebird conditions. 

Everyone is pumped the great weather and they have done some ski touring as well as classes. 

To quote Instructor Nate Emerson, "We had a long ski run on "Hot Pow."

Today, they are moving camp up the glacier. Here are some photos from last year's ski course.

MTC12- Holmgren

They landed at 7,200 ft. Kahiltna Base Camp on Saturday and set up a camp. This entails building a snow kitchen. Yesterday, they practiced glacier travel and crevasses rescue skills, rope skills, and anchor building.

Everybody is psyched and enthusiastic about being in there. They will be moving camp down glacier in the next few days. Their plan is to descend the main Kahiltna glacier to an area known as Little Switzerland. Exciting times ahead!

A bit of fixed line ascension before heading to the glacier.

Ready to head to the mountains on Saturday 4/20

A couple of scenes from prior mountaineering courses held in the same area...

Looking down on the Base camp with the main Kahiltna Glacier in the distance.

A true outdoor classroom!

Oakes - Custom Climb with Jordan

Guide Nadav Oakes and Jordan climbed Bacon and Eggs on Sunday. This classic route is on Mount Hunter. The Perfect weather and good conditions are making it extra fun.

Climber down climbing on Bacon and Eggs route.

Frez-Albrecht - Custom Climb with Tim and Mike

This team is getting after it! They climbed East Kahiltna Peak today with Tim and Mike. They did a planned bivvy on the route at 11,700 feet and summited today. Congrats! They are ahead of schedule but have lots of options for more climbing this week. Mount Francis? Radio Tower? We'll find out soon. 

Wow!

April in the Alaska Range is an awesome time to climb. It is before the main climbing season on Denali. The snow conditions are usually very good for both climbing and skiing.

In Town Crevasse Rescue Course in Progress

Our weekend class is enjoying cold and sunny weather. Instructor Curtis Green is teaching rigging for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. This is a great workshop to brush up your skills before heading onto glaciated terrain. We have found that learning in a safe environment, such as the AMS Headquarters, allows for greater retention and also allows the time to ask questions and review material while not being on a glacier. It helps that we still have plenty of snow but we can do these classes at any time.

This is our final scheduled workshop of the season; however, we can always offer a custom Crevasse Rescue course that works for your schedule.

Ski Mountaineering with Lead Instructor/Guide Nate Emerson: First Course of the 2024 Season is Off!

Students Jaime, Brandon, Tim, Matt, Instructors Claire and Nate and Student Josh.

After an extra evening in Talkeetna, due to weather, our Ski Mountaineering Course was all smiles this morning- as they headed to the Talkeetna airport, with the sun on their faces!  This is a great group, with an easy rapport amongst them.  Nate and Claire are a great Instructor team that works well together and is organized and thorough.