AMS Glacier Trek 7/26, Kayes

AMS guide Jake Kayes along with Adi and Michael just left for Matanuska Glacier for a 2-day trek. They were excited to be on their way.  Adi and Michael are looking forward to learning roped glacier travel, self-arrest, proper use of an ice axe and setting up ice anchors.  They also hope to do some ice climbing.

Gear check is done

 Packing the backpack

 AMS Guide Jake Kayes, Adi, Michael

AMS 6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/9 Returns

AMS instructors Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan, Fallon Connolly and students returned from the Pika Glacier.  This team learned about the weather delay first thing.  Weather delayed them from flying for a few days, they had classes here and at the Matanuska Glacier.  They were well prepared to fly to the Pika and practice their new skills.

Sorting gear

Our last table of snacks for climbing season

12 Day Mountaineering Course 7/1, Kayes Returns

The 12-day Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes, Chris Welch, Allen Dahl returned to Talkeetna.  They had a great time in the Pika.  They were treated to all sorts of weather, sunny, rain and snow.

They are busy sorting and hanging gear.  Eating snacks and enjoying the nice summer day.

Gear on the lines

 Gear to be sorted

6 Day Mountaineering Course 7/9, Bomba

AMS Instructors Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan, Fallon Connolly and students just flew to the Pika Glacier. The team is happy to be flying today, they plan to practice the skills they learned at the Matanuska Glacier yesterday.

Travel

Ice screws for the V thread

Testing V thread for weight

Instructors Emma and Fallon loading van

Students organizing gear

Six Day Mountaineering Course, July 9-14, Bomba

The team excited for the course

AMS instructor Chelsea Bomba teaching classes at AMS Headquarters

The Six-day Mountaineering Course just departed for the Matanuska Glacier.  They have been waiting for the weather to clear so they could fly into the range.  They plan to spend the day learning new skills and will return to Talkeetna tonight.  Hopefully, the weather will be flyable tomorow.

AMS Denali Teams AMS/Mt Professionals and EAZY have returned

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth and Team EAZY led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht are back at AMS headquarters.  

They are enjoying salsa, chips, fresh fruit orange juice and water.  After a short rest  they will be busy sorting gear.

Snacks

Sorting gear

Drying gear

AMS Mountain Update, 7/6

12 day Mountaineering 7/1-7/12 course on the Pika lead by Jake Kayes, Chrs Welch and Allen Dahl are rock climbing today.  The students are learning new skills and are enjoying the sun!

An AMS student from previous course rock climbing.

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are heading down to basecamp.  We expect to see them in Talkeetna in a few days.

AMS team descending the 16 ridge.

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht reported that the winds had calmed so they are going for the summit.  It will be a long day and we look forward to hearing from them later. 

Teams climbing up to Denali pass.

AMS Denali West Buttress 6/15, Patch Returns

AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan and team returned to Talkeetna today!  They are happy to be back in the warm sunny weather.

They are enjoying snacks as they sort gear. 

This team worked hard but high winds kept them from the summit!

Snacks before unloading the van

Happy to be back

Sorting Gear

Guides Scott and Chelsea

AMS Mountain Updates 7/5

Another beautiful summer day in Talkeetna.  There are high winds high on Denali. All Teams are doing well!

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht is stayed in camp today.  They are hopeful that the wind will subside and they can try for the summit soon.

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth made a summit attempt yesterday, they turned back due to the high winds. They are resting at high camp and hope to make a summit attempt tomorrow.

A windy Denali pass as seen from 17 camp.

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan is are descending to base camp. We expect to see them tomorrow morning depending on the weather.

Team traveling up Heartbreak hill under the clouds.

12 day Mountaineering 7/1-7/12course on the Pika lead by Jake Kayes is doing well. They have reported lots of snow. That hasn't stopped them. They have practiced snow skills, and have moved camp. 

Mountaineering course camp on the Pika.

Guide Highlight: Trip Report of Second Ascent of Denali's "Light Traveler" Route

Now Featuring: Two AMS guides' spectacular personal trip on Denali. 

Way to get after it! 

Photo by Sam Hennessey of Michael Gardner on Denali's SW face.
It's not every day you see a rock climbing photo from a Denali climb 

Trip report as written by Sam Hennessey:

On June 4-5, Michael Gardner and I made 

the second ascent of Light Traveler (VI M7 WI6) 

on the SW Face of Denali In a sleepless push, 

we climbed from ski hill camp, through the 

Northeast Fork, and up 8500 feet of some of 

the best climbing either of us has ever done. 

The first 1500 feet were especially memorable, 

with perfect rock, runnels of ice only inches 

wide, and exciting, difficult climbing. The terrain 

turned moderate as we climbed through 

the coldest part of the night and we finished with 

exhausting trail breaking on the upper 

Cassin in perfect weather. The highlight of the descent 

was emerging from a whiteout below Kahiltna pass 

only to find Colby's crew and hot quesadillas. 

We both agree it is the most difficult climb 

we have done in the Alaska range, and give 

huge respect to the first ascent party, 

Marko Prezelj and Stephen Koch, 

for finding a prime line through 

the steepest part of the SW Face 

and firing it in a committing, 

lightweight style rarely attempted even today. 

The climbing is of the highest quality from top to bottom, 

and we would strongly recommend others check it out!

AMS Mountain Update: July 4th

CONGRATULATIONS TO June 16th CNYOSM Expedition!!

Summit Photo July 1, 2018

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst, Erica Engle, Alma Johnson has returned to Talkeetna this morning. They had a nice rest at 11,200' camp and flew first thing this morning on a beautiful and clear 4th of July day. 

AMS photo of Denali as seen from Talkeetna

AMS photo by guide Tom Torkelson of the summit ridge, the teams experienced higher winds than this yesterday

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan are So close but not in the cards yesterday for AMS expeditions June 15 and EAZY. The high winds turned them back very near the summit after a long day of being out there climbing at the slow pace of very high altitude. All were back in camp last night and resting up after having hot food and drinks. Sounds like a 200% effort day with solid safety decision making. Way to climb smart everyone we are stoked for you- what a day. This team will start descending to basecamp. 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht made it to the summit ridge last night and turned around due to high winds. Great effort and strong work. This team plans to stay at high camp and attempt again as they are a specialized team and have made quick work of ascending the mountain. 


June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are attempting the summit today! This is a long, hard day at altitude after many days of climbing. Go team go! 

AMS photo of Denali's upper mountain

AMS Mountain Update July 3

AMS photo of a previous team descending post-TAT

CONGRATULATIONS TO June 16th CNYOSM Expedition!!

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst, Erica Engle, Alma Johnson made it to the top of North America at 20,310' last night at about 8:00pm Alaska time. They experienced some wind around Denali Pass (18,200') and then had great conditions the remaining way up. They are back in camp at 17,200' and will begin their descent in approximately in the next day when conditions and energy levels allow. The exposure of the upper mountain and to be above it all is unlike many other experiences. This team is stoked to have the uphill behind them and to work with gravity for the descent. 

AMS recent photo by Eric Roberts of heading to the summit.

GOOD LUCK TO THESE TWO TEAMS PUSHING FOR THE SUMMIT TODAY: 

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan are making a summit attempt today! 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht are also making a summit attempt today! It is a glorious day today. Forecast for above 17,000' says: SUNNY. HIGHS 5 BELOW TO 10 ABOVE ZERO F. WEST WINDS AROUND 15 MPH 

AMS photo of Denali's upper mountain

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth have arrived at 17,200' camp in good spirits and everyone did well heading up the fixed lines. Above 14,200' is where one can really start to feel the altitude and why acclimatization is so key. This team is rocking it! 

AMS photo by M. Durand of climbers heading up the 16k ridge

AMS photo by M. Durand of high camp on a sunny day

AMS Mountain Update: July 2

Wishing the June 16th team led by Michael Horst good luck! as they push for the summit this beautiful evening. 

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst, Erica Engle, Alma Johnson are making an attempt for the summit this evening! 

AMS photo by guide Eric Roberts of a recent team climbing near the Autobahn, approximately 17,600' 

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan are staying at 17,200' camp today 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht have also settled into 17,200' camp today. 

AMS photo of high camp 

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are en route to 17,200' camp. 

AMS climbers en route to high camp, this is along the 16k ridge 

AMS twelve day mountaineering course: LAUNCH!

A few views you see on the flight into the Alaska Range for the AMS mountaineering course, photo by Amanda Erickson

AMS Mountaineering Course led by Jake Kayes, Chris Welch, and Allen Dahl departed this evening for the Pika Glacier in the Alaska Range. It is a beautiful evening for a glacier flight and landing. This crew is from all over the world and is going to have an awesome time.

AMS intern Allen Dahl teaching crevasse self-rescue class

AMS team photo! (L) guide Jake, Chilton, Charles, Chang, Wanyang, Eric, Akash, Kaitlin, Rachael, Tim, guide Allen, guide Chris

Talkeetna Air Taxi launching from the Pika after dropping off climbers. Photo by A. Erickson

AMS Mountain Update: July 1, 2018

AMS photo of views from the 16k ridge

June 15 Denali West Buttress led by AMS guides Scott Patch, Chelsea Bomba, Emma Lyddan took advantage of the weather have moved to high camp 17,200' feet yesterday. Today is a well-deserved rest day. The upper mountain does currently have some wind, but everyone is doing well and hydrated in camp. 

AMS photo of high camp 

June 16 Denali CNYOSM Expedition, a custom AMS team led by guide Michael Horst, Erica Engle, Alma Johnson broke trail to high camp yesterday and got some good rest last night. Today they are enjoying rest and the sunshine at 17,200' above the clouds. Everyone is doing well. 

AMS photo by guide Dustin English of life at high camp

June 18 Denali West Buttress AMS; Mt Professionals Expedition led by AMS guides Con Severis, Ryan Waters, and Sammie Ellsworth are doing classes and acclimatizing at 14,200' camp today. 

AMS camp life at 14,200 with views of Foraker, photo by Makaila Olson 

EAZY Expedition led by Josh Hoeschen and Simon Frez-Albrecht carried to 16,400' today and everyone is doing well. This awesome team took the time to clean up caches left by other teams. 

AMS recent photo by Eric Roberts of the fixed lines above 14,200' camp en route to cache at 16,400'