AMS Team Updates May 31, 2023

 

AMS Team Updates:

5/11 Denali Team led by Simon Fretz- Albrecht is at Kahiltna Base Camp, waiting for flyable weather so that they can return to Talkeetna. All is well, they will be well-rested upon their return!

AMS Climbers on the Kahiltna Glacier, descending to Basecamp.

5/18 Denali Team led by Cody Pitz remains at the 14,200-foot Camp, due to high winds above, they will move up to high camp when the time is right. They will eat, sleep, hydrate, and explore the beautiful areas nearby the camp. 

14,200-foot Camp on Denali's West Buttress, life above the clouds is good.

5/26 Denali Prep Course led by Keith Sidle is doing great on the Kahiltna Glacier, They have covered several days of hands-on coursework and roped glacier travels at Basecamp. Today, they are climbing up the glacier and moving their camp towards Kahiltna Pass, between 9,500-9,800 feet.

The Denali Prep Course camped here at 7,800 feet last night!

5/29 Denali West Buttress expedition, led by Nate Emerson is squarely experiencing the "Talkeetna Hang." This means they are using their patience as they were not able to fly again today due to poor weather. They have continued with hands-on classes today, covered the route via PowerPoint in our cozy yurt, and visited the Talkeetna Historical Society, which has an impressive Denali climber exhibit.  As soon as it is flyable they will head to the airport.

Guide Nate, Wade, Alex, Hedayet, Corentin, Colleen, Guide Ayla, Johann, and Guide Tyler

AMS Denali Team Update May 30, 2023

 In the Mountains this Evening:

5/29 Denali West Buttress expedition led by Nate Emerson had a full day starting with a National Park Ranger briefing at 9:00 AM followed by fixed line ascension, final packing, and a big lunch. 

Now they are doing the "Talkeetna Hang." This means they were not able to fly on schedule due to poor weather. They will continue tomorrow with classes reviewing skills that they will put to good use when they are able to get on the glacier. As soon as it is flyable they will head to the airport.

National Park Mountaineering Ranger Chelsea Bomba giving a briefing to the team.

Conversely, poor weather in Talkeetna does not mean the same thing on Denali....

5/18 Denali Team led by Cody Pitz is at 14,200' Camp and is contemplating a move to 17,200 High Camp. 

5/11 Denali Team led by Simon Frez-Albrecht is at 9,800-camp and will likely head to Kahiltna Base Camp this evening to await a flight out of the mountains when it is flyable.

 Mountain Updates, news reported on the eve of 5/29/23:

❄️May 11 Team Denali Expedition led by @luv2sharpen descended from 17,200 foot High Camp to 14,200 foot Camp on Monday. They are happy to be there. Today they will be heading down to the "ski hill camp" at 9800 feet.

❄️May 18 Denali Expedition led by @codywpitz is doing great and are climbing strong. They moved to the 14,200 foot Camp on Saturday (5/27) in good style. On Sunday (5/28) they descended to the Windy Corner area to pick up their previously cached food and fuel. Yesterday, they climbed the fixed lines and cached at approximately 16,500 feet; carrying and caching works doubly to help climbers acclimate and to lighten their loads on move day. They will have a well deserved full rest day today (5/30) at 14,200 Camp. 

Photo: @alaskamountaineeringschool Collection of a previous AMS on the fixed lines, with 14,200 camp below to the right the and the Alaska Range beyond.

Denali West Buttress 5/11 Frez-Albrecht: Simon let us know they had summit success yesterday! It was sunny and calm on the way to the top but the descent was more difficult in whiteout conditions making it a very LONG day. They are safe and sound at 17K and resting up before their descent. We look forward to hearing more as they make their way down the mountain. 

Summit Marker

This image shows climbers heading up summit ridge. That's Mount Foraker in the background at 17,400 feet. This photo is from a 2022 expedition.

Denali Prep Course Launches!

Noah A., Noah J., Bill, Instructors: Sara, Claire, and Keith, with Evan, Eleonora, and Ben

This crew was ready to go yesterday- but the weather grounded them for an extra evening in Talkeetna.  They spent extra time on the fixed lines and enjoyed dinner at AMS headquarters. They were at the airport bright and early this morning, ready to catch their flight to base camp and excited to begin their course!

 Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams and Mountaineering Course:

A new day dawning on Denali saw teams moving on and off the mountain.
(photo by N. Joraanstad)

5/12 Denali, West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak Team returned to Talkeetna today.  They were in high spirits as they unpacked gear and planned for a little R & R.

5/8 Denali, West Buttress led by Chris Welch: The team made it to Talkeetna today.  They had some stories to tell and were looking forward to all gathering at a local Airbnb, for one last night as a team.

PJ's Mountaineering Course with Nate Emerson: The PJs returned to town today, after spending an extra night on the Pika glacier.

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: The team will be heading for the summit, as weather allows.

5/18 Denali, West Buttress led by Cody Pitz: The team is on the move to 14,200'!

AMS Headquarters When 3 Groups Return on the Same Day!

 Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams and Mountaineering Course:

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: The team remains at 17,200' high camp. They had a windy night, but were ready for a back carry down the ridge today, if the weather was cooperative.

PJ's Mountaineering Course with Nate Emerson: This group was ready to return to town today, but the weather had other ideas.  It was snowing hard on the glacier and the planes weren't flying, so the group will spend another evening camping on the Pika.

Windy Day on Denali (photo by Noah Joraanstad)

Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams and Mountaineering Course:

5/12 Denali, West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak Team is at 14,200' and will stay in camp tonight and start their descent to base camp tomorrow.  They expect to be in base camp early Saturday morning (May 27th).

5/8 Denali, West Buttress led by Chris Welch: The team made the decision to descend today, and they are now safely back at 14,200' and will stay in camp tonight and start their descent to basecamp tomorrow.  They expect to be in base camp early Saturday morning (May 27th).

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: The team remains at 17,200' high camp. They are fortifying their camp with snow walls and are poised to make a summit attempt in the days to come when weather allows.  

The "diving board" at high camp (photo by J. Hoeschen)

5/18: Denali West Buttress led by Cody Pitz: The team made the carry to Windy Corner today- and everyone did well! If weather allows they will move to 14,200' in the days to come.

AMS team, carrying at Windy Corner, on a previous expedition.

PJ's Mountaineering Course with Nate Emerson: They had a great outing and also completed avalanche companion rescue today.  Everyone is doing great and they are making the most of their time in the mountains!

Summit Day for the Kodiak Team led by Mike Gardner!

Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams and Mountaineering Course:

5/12 Denali, West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak Team has summited with everyone! If conditions allow, they will begin their descent today.

View of the Denali Summit from an airplane

5/8 Denali, West Buttress led by Chris Welch : The team moved to 17,200' high camp. They are poised to make a summit attempt, in the next couple of days, when conditions allow.

high camp at 17,200'

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht : The team has joined our other AMS group at 17,200' high camp. They are poised to make a summit attempt in the days to come, when weather allows.

The "diving board" at high camp (photo by J. Hoeschen)

5/18: Denali West Buttress led by Cody Pitz: Currently rested and acclimated at 11,000'.  If the weather allows, they are planning on carrying to Windy Corner today!

AMS team, carrying at Windy Corner, on a previous expedition.

PJ's Mountaineering Course with Nate Emerson: They are doing very well- keeping busy with technical classes and outings to nearby mountain features.

AMS students on the Pika.

 Another Sunny Day in the Mountains

Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams and Mountaineering Course:

5/8 Denali, West Buttress led by Chris Welch carried gear to the 16,400' ridge yesterday. In this cache will be food, fuel, and gear for the 17K High Camp. They descended back to the 14,200' camp to rest before making a move higher on the Mountain.

Photo from the 16K ridge looking south. (AMS archives)

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht Yesterday, the team did a back-carry retrieving their stashed gear at the 13,500' cache. All went smoothly.  Next, the team reviewed and practiced fixed lines, and snow pro skills for the next carry-up on the headwall. Their plan is to carry up to the fixed lines to the 16K ridge. They also spent some time playing uno. 

Photo of teams near the 13,500 cache site. (AMS archives)

5/12 Denali, West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak Team rested at 14K yesterday. They made the move to the 17K High Camp today.

5/18: Denali West Buttress led by Cody Pitz: Yesterday they moved to 11,000 feet. This is the camp where they will leave their snowshoes behind and change to crampons for the upper mountain. Any gear they don't need they bury and retrieve on the descent.

Walls and tents at the 11,000 foot camp. (AMS archives)

PJ's Mountaineering Course with Nate Emerson: They had a good day of classes and learned crevasse rescue techniques. They navigated through an icefall. This evening they plan on some ice climbing.

A student practicing self arrest on a course

The Pika Glacier is a stunning classroom setting.

Crevasse rescue in a controlled setting.

AMS Denali Expeditions - All Teams update: Sunny day!

Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams:

5/8 Denali, West Buttress led by Chris Welch moved to the 14,200-foot camp yesterday and is very doing well. They are taking a full rest day today (complete with sleeping in!) and are enjoying the sunny day as they acclimate, hydrate, and eat well. As you can imagine, they are very happy to be at 14K Camp.

5/11 Denali, West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht moved to the 14,200-foot camp yesterday and built their camp near the other AMS teams. They are also taking a full rest day today and are enjoying the sunny day as they acclimate, hydrate, and eat well; this morning they ate hot Cheezy bagels, an all-time AMS favorite. All is well.

5/12 Denali, West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak Team is very doing well at the 14,200-foot camp. They carried extra food, fuel, and equipment up the fixed lines to 16,400 feet today.  This is a strong team and they will be ready to move when the time is right.

AMS Team setting up camp at 14,200 feet, Denali's, West Buttress route.

5/18 Denali, West Buttress Expedition led by Cody Pitz: moved to 7,800' foot camp yesterday. They made good time and are planning to climb to 10,000 feet today and cache extra food, fuel, and gear in anticipation of their move to the 11,000-foot camp.

The carry to 10,000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier is spectacular!

If you liked to read more about what is going on in the mountains with other teams - check out Denali Dispatches, a blog by the Denali National Park Mountaineering Rangers: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm

USAF PJ Mountaineering Course has begun!

After an afternoon of waiting out the weather in Talkeetna the USAF Pararescue Team has flown into the Alaska Range to begin their customized Mountaineering Course this morning.  As we've come to know, PJs are awesome.

 

ALL TEAMS UPDATE- Denali Expeditions

Reports came in yesterday evening from AMS Denali Expedition Teams:

AMS climbers on Windy Corner, from a previous expedition.

5/8 Denali West Buttress led by Chris Welch 

and 

5/11 Denali West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: Both teams carried past Windy Corner (approx. 13,500 ft). It was a beautiful, hot day with no wind! So the teams enjoyed quite a change from the recent storm.

5/12 Denali West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak team is now at 14,200 ft. They had a great move with hot and sunny weather. 

Denali, West Buttress, 14,200-foot camp, above the clouds

5/18 Denali, West Buttress Expedition led by Cody Pitz: Settled into basecamp on schedule. After they set up their tents and settled into camp, it started to snow as they enjoyed a hot pizza dinner. They are looking forward to the days ahead and are ready!

Life and times at Kahiltna Basecamp!

Conditions Report: Between 11,000 - 14,200 feet: AMS Guides report firm snow and blue ice, requiring running protection in steep and exposed sections.

If you liked to read more about what is going on in the mountains then check out Denali Dispatches, a blog by the Denali National Park Mountaineering Rangers: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm

May 18 Expedition begins!

⛰ May 18 Denali West Buttress led by Cody Pitz has begun! The team was very well organized in Talkeetna while preparing and packing this morning and yesterday afternoon. They were having a lot of fun together already and they have flown into the Alaska Range and safely landed on the Kahiltna Glacier on schedule today. 

We look forward to following their progress and sharing it here with you.

This team has THE spirit! The first-ever AMS barefoot and jumping team photo. :-)
Rob, Cody, Matt, Ben, Taylor, Steven, Marc, Rebecca, Katie

The team ran through fixed line ascension practice at AMS HQ this morning.

ALL TEAM UPDATE- DENALI TEAMS: Welch, Frez-Albrecht and Gardner

 

Camp at 11,000 ft. Photo by: AMS Guide Adam Fabrikant

 Another Team Update from our Denali Climbers...

It's sunny here in Talkeetna today and sunny in the Mountains- and everyone is happy and settled into camp at 11,000 feet.

5/8 Denali West Buttress led by Chris Welch: Very happy to be at the 11,000-foot camp and looking forward to the days to come when they make their way to 14,000-foot camp. They are enjoying the comradery amongst the 3 AMS teams! 

5/11 Denali West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: Pancakes for breakfast this morning for Team Frez-Albrecht, as they acclimatize and fortify their camp. "Beautifully clear with a big snow plume blowing off the summit".

5/12 Denali West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: The Kodiak team is enjoying each other's company and working well together!

If you liked to read more about what is going on in the mountains then check out Denali Dispatches, a blog by the Denali National Park Mountaineering Rangers: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm

Another Team Update from our Denali Climbers...

 Another Team Update from our Denali Climbers...

It's raining here in Talkeetna today and that means it is snowing in the Mountains.

5/8 Denali West Buttress led by Chris Welch: Holding at 9600 feet. "Everyone is fine, warm, and dry, so all in all we're good. The large DOUBLE snow walls we built are doing their job and keeping the winds down. We do have shoveling chores to keep us occupied."

5/11 Denali West Buttress led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: Also at 9600 feet. "We had a nice big breakfast of cheesy bacon hashbrowns for us this morning And celebrating Tom's Birthday!!

5/12 Denali West Buttress led by Michael Gardner: They remain at 7800 feet.

If you liked to read more about what is going on in the mountains then check out Denali Dispatches, a blog by the Denali National Park Mountaineering Rangers: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm

AMS guide, Michael Gardner doing some tent time while climbing Denali in 2019

Shovel duty. It is important to keep all snow away from the tents. Despite the walls, blowing snow can still get in, and if there is too much it may collapse a tent.

This image from our archives shows the bomber walls the team members build for the weather on Denali. 

ALL TEAM UPDATE - DENALI CLIMBS

 ALL TEAM UPDATE - DENALI CLIMBS

Yesterday was nice in the morning but became stormy in the afternoon. All teams are hunkered down and everyone is fine. 

May 8 Team led by Chris Welch: They are currently camped at 9,600' (just below Kahiltna Pass) where they had previously cached some of their gear. They are having a "weather-y" time. When the weather allows they will move to 11,200 feet camp. All is well.

May 11 Team led by Simon Frez-Albrecht: They are currently camped at 7800 feet (Camp 1). They started from the base camp where they land at 7,200 feet. Keep in mind this section required a 500-foot descent from the base camp to the main Kahiltna Glacier, then upwards to 7800 feet. They are taking the opportunity to get organized and rest up for the next move which is carrying and caching supplies higher on the mountain. 

May 12 Team led by Michael Gardner: They spent the first day at base camp and they plan to move to 7,800 feet.

May 13th- Custom Denali- Kodiak, with Lead Guide Mike Gardner, Launched Today!

Guides Mike and Ben

It was a beautiful day in town, with intermittent clouds in the mountains, so our Kodiak team spent a little extra time at the airport- but made it off! Mike and Ben will undoubtedly have fun with this small, nimble team- and the climbers were definitely soaking up all of Mike's knowledge as they packed their lunches and talked about nutrition and athletic performance. This group will be great!
 

Denali Expedition Availability - only 1 place left! NOW FULL!

   Guided  Denali, West Buttress Expeditions  - 2023

Update: AMS Denali Expeditions are now FULL for the 2023 Season - we look forward to climbing The High One with you in 2024!  Now is absolutely the time to start preparations and training for next year, have fun out there.  

AMS courses and customs do have spaces available for June and July 2023!

...Previous post below:

We have only 1 place open for the remainder of the 2023 season.

Expedition dates: June 12- July 3:  1 place newly available!

___________________

A Denali expedition requires previous experience and a high level of fitness, if this mountain has been a goal, now is the time to join.

Expedition price includes; a small team size: max of 6 climbers with 3 AMS Mountain Guides, NPS climber fees, 2 nights pre-climb Talkeetna lodging, ground transport between Anchorage and Talkeetna, and a lot more.  

Joining a locally based guide service makes a real difference. 

$11,800.00 per person, 22 days 

Maximum team size:  6 climbers, 3 guides 

To find more information check out our website, and contact us anytime. Our application materials are on our website or email us and we will send them to you.   

May 12th- And They're Off! Denali Team Frez-Albrecht Flies to the Kahiltna Glacier!

No weather delays for this group!

Guide Meredith, Tom, Guide Simon, Mike, Bel and Megan

Denali Team Frez-Albrecht has had a flawless launch- catching the weather just right! With the addition of Megan to the team they have a nice 2:1 ratio of climbers to guides. Tom completed our 12 Day Course last summer, and is back this year for Denali.  We love seeing the progression of our students culminate on a Denali Expedition.  

May 12th- Updates From Our Teams in/out of the Mountains.

 May 5th, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Katie McCaffery returned on Wednesday with big smiles.  They had an awesome time on the Pika Glacier! The Valdez firemen were happy with their work training and Cameron will be returning home, across the Atlantic, with stories to tell!

Custom Climb on Kahiltna Dome led by Nate Opp with Mark returned to Talkeetna yesterday evening, after an extra day waiting out the weather. The duo encountered lots of snow on Mark's 10th adventure with AMS!

May 1st, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Keith Sidle is expected out this afternoon. Conditions are great for flying with not a cloud in the sky.  

Custom Military Mountaineering Course led by Larry Holmgren is enjoying the beautiful, clear day on the glacier! They are tackling a small ascent before flying back to town.