Photos from our April Ski Mountaineering Course

These images were taken by course participant Lee Snow on our Ski Mountaineering course last week at Glacier One. 

Our 12-day Mountaineering Course returned today and will put some photos up tomorrow. 

Our All Women's Ski Mountaineering course launches tomorrow.

A bit of flat light but plenty of snow.

Rope management.

Sung in the tent while it snowed some more...

There was definitely some trailbreaking.

Looks like they had the place to themselves.

A+ on artistic symmetry.

Instructor Cody Pitz with Russ and Lee taking a quick break in the sunshine.

Roped up for safety.

It wasn't all sunshine and flowers... there was shoveling involved.

12-Day Mountaineering Course, Hunsaker: Report from the Field

The instructors checked in this morning. The team made it back from the Ruth Amphitheater and down to the main part of the Ruth Glacier. They say the weather remains beautiful and the 'stoke' remains high! 

Moving camp means a long day of travel with a heavy backpack while pulling a sled. After snowshoeing on the glacier for some hours, you still need to build a bomber camp and set up your tents. Next, cooking a big dinner and getting some well-deserved rest. All good experience for future mountaineering expeditions. Tomorrow they will explore the area and have a good camp to return to.

Here are some photographs from the AMS files of the area, along with some images of camp life.

There is a small camp to the left of the landing strip. Ruth Glacier. 

The kitchen cook tent. Melting snow for water is always the first thing to happen in camp.

Taking a break with packs and sleds.

Bagels are a staple of mountain food.

Custom Mountaineering Course into Glacier One

This fun group flew into the Alaska Range yesterday for a 6 Day Custom Mountaineering Course... and bachelor party! Guides Dan Corn, Kai Girard and Tyler Thompson will be showing them the ropes.

The team at the end of Main Street by the Susitna River.

 

Glacier One is a great area for a course as it has a lot of potential objectives. It is located to the east, just off the Ruth Glacier, south of the Ruth Amphitheater. We know that the weather is good here from the reports we are getting from our 12-Day Mountaineering Course instructors.

Perfect day in the AK Range & Moose's Tooth- team Griffiths has returned!

Today was a perfect bluebird day throughout the Alaska Range.

Moose's Tooth - Griffiths and Oakes, both summited the Moose's Tooth via the Ham 'n Eggs route this morning. Congratulations!

Ryan and Peter flew back to Talkeetna this evening and will be getting a good night's rest after their excellent climb, which started in the early morning hours. They had a fantastic climb, which included seeing the Northern Lights as they climbed this morning. They couldn't have asked for a better climb.

Nadav and John plan to stay in the range and climb a bit more through the weekend.

Peter and Ryan at the top, Denali peeking in on them in the background

12-Day Mountaineering Course - Hunsaker is having a great course. Yesterday, they moved from the Great Gorge up the glacier toward the Mountain House landing strip, where they will be closer to some moderate climbing and great places to put skills into practice.  Messages from the team are double thumbs up; they are really enjoying it all. The weather has been fantastic.

Previous AMS course peak ascent, overlooking the Ruth Amphitheater

 

Report from Moose's Tooth and the Ruth Gorge

Moose's Tooth - Griffiths and Oakes, our two teams with sights on Ham n' Eggs Route reported that they are enjoying a beautiful day at the base of the route, and route conditions look excellent. They're ready to climb Ham and Eggs tomorrow.

12-Day Mountaineering Course - Hunsaker

It's a bluebird day in the range, and the team is making progress in the Ruth Gorge. The gorge is massive, and the glacier has been measured to be 3000 feet deep!

Topographic map of the area and possible routes where the team will be traveling. The landing strip is marked by the red line on the right.

Crevasse rescue instruction and training happen at the start of any course.

Photos from yesterday in the Alaska Range: Ski Day!

WORTH THE WAIT!

AMS Founder and Guide, Colby Coombs, led a one-day ski trip to the Pika Glacier yesterday with a wonderful couple visiting from Europe.

Radka and Igor living the dream!

It's all downhill from here.

Powder!

That's Mount Foraker on the far right. 17,400 feet.

More beginnings today!

AMS had 3 patient teams waiting to fly today, and fly they did!

Whoo hoo... our Skiers were able to fly in today with Colby Coombs as their guide.

This group is visiting from the Czech Republic.

Radka, Igor, Colby and Grandma with their twins.

 (Only Radka and Igor get to go)

Guide Ryan Griffiths and Pete had a one day delay but flew in this morning...

Peter and Guide, Ryan Giffiths

Guide Nadav Oakes and John before heading to the airport.

Got boots?

Don't forget your peanut butter and jelly sandwich!

John food packing this morning.

How much is enough? Our scale will tell you.

Update from the Alaska Range and the HQ

The 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by AMS instructors Lexie Hunsaker and Madelyn Ferdock checked in last night and reported that all is well in the Ruth Gorge.  They are settled into camp and have begun coursework. All is well with this intrepid group!

No flights in or out of the Alaska Range today from Talkeetna. The first of our two Moose Tooth Custom climbs, led by Ryan Griffiths, waited patiently for clearing, but the weather didn't allow it, so they got the infamous Talkeetna Hang this afternoon. We are hopeful that tomorrow will be a fine day for mountain flying.

This break will allow the snow to settle a bit in the Range, as reports say it was relatively sunny in the Alaska Range today.

AMS Climbers traveling on the Ruth Glacier with epic views of the Moose's Tooth.

Lots of action today! 4/20/25

The 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by AMS instructors Lexie Hunsaker and Madelyn Ferdock departed for the Talkeetna Airport this morning and flew into Denali National Park and Preserve.  They have arrived at the Ruth Glacier to begin their course. They have a super itinerary planned for this course, in one of the most beautiful places on the planet. 

The 12-Day Course loading up at Talkeetna Air Taxi this morning.

Ski Mountaineering with Cody Pitz has returned from the Alaska Range. We look forward to seeing their photos. It sounds like they all had an excellent time in a beautiful place, and they got a lot done despite the waist-deep new snow. Congrats to all on achieving a fun and safe Alaska Range expedition

The Kahiltna Peaks Expedition with Tad McCrea is en route with TAT from the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier right now. No summit yesterday, due to seemingly bottomless fresh snow on Frances East Ridge, no doubt they all worked hard up there and had a fulfilling mountain experience.  We look forward to hearing more from them and seeing their photos tomorrow!

April - 12 Day Mountaineering Course - Begins! ...with the Talkeetna Hang

The 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by AMS instructors Lexie Hunsaker and Madelyn Ferdock with students Caitlin, Kat, Chrissy, and Naomi has begun!  Yes, it is all ladies- it's a really remarkable coincidence when all women's teams just organically. 

The day started with gear check, lunch/trail food packing, and learning and practicing fixed line ascension here at the AMS HQ.  After a hot lunch, they weighed gear, filled water bottles, got in their action suits, and headed to Talkeetna Air Taxi for their planned flight to the Ruth Glacier.  As sometimes happens, the weather was not clear enough for flights into the mountains this afternoon, so they are waiting the night in Talkeetna and will try again in the morning. All are in good spirits as they covered snow-kitchen set up and enjoyed a nice camp-cooked dinner this evening at the HQ. 

Lexie, Naomi, Chrissy, Kat, Caitlin, Maddy

Dinner on the "glacier" at the AMS HQ! The crew - making the most of it!

4/19 Alaska Range Report - Not too stormy in the Range, but not good enough for flights today!

 The Kahiltna Peaks Expedition Guide Tad McCrea messaged in this morning: "We are at the base of the East Ridge of Francis. Knee+  deep w/ xtra long snowshoes. Going for it today, be back by the evening." They are having a big day of climbing and, given the weather trends and forecast, they plan to fly back to Talkeetna tomorrow. 

Ski Mountaineering Guide Cody Pitz had hopes of flying back to Talkeetna tonight, but they are staying the night on the glacier- the weather didn't allow for flights to pick them up safely today. They have plenty of food, fuel, and good company as they wait for better weather (hopefully tomorrow).

The views that the Kahiltna Peaks Expedition are enjoying from the camp on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.
Photo from the Archives: Renan Ozturk

4/18 Mountain Report - Clearing Skies!

The Kahiltna Peaks Expedition Guide Tad McCrea messaged in with plans to climb of Mt. Frances East Ridge as weather and conditions permit.  The crew is doing really well. 

Ski Mountaineering Guide Cody Pitz messaged this evening and reported that they "Got some good weather and got a lot done today." 

We can't wait to hear more about it all when these teams return. The guides are often jam-packed, and it sounds like they both had an excellent day out there, making the most of it. 

The skiers are scheduled to fly back to Talkeetna tomorrow, so we will post some photos when we get them.

This isn't the current ski team, but we suspect the crew in there is feeling as happy as these AMS skiers from 2019!

Today's Reports from the AK Range - April 17, 2025

The Kahiltna Peaks Expedition Guide Tad McCrea checked in this afternoon, and attitudes remain high on the SE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier! They've received about 3 feet of snow overall since Tuesday evening, and have been shoveling, staying dry, brewing up, and enjoying the simplicity of mountain life today. It cleared up a bit this afternoon, and they enjoyed the sun. 

Ski Mountaineering Guide Cody Pitz messaged this evening and reported that the morning was a snow fest with a foot falling, totaling 3 feet on Glacier One. It cleared up this afternoon, and they got out for a quick ski this afternoon when it cleared up. The steep couloirs have higher avalanche consequences, so they are avoiding those until things stabilize. 

Both Teams were happy for the break in the weather this afternoon and are looking forward to exploring more in the days ahead.

Snow feeds the glacier and sure makes for a peaceful time. 

Reports from the Alaska Range!

 Guide Tad McCrea checked in last night and reported that they "climbed a couple mixed pitches on Annie's ridge yesterday and climbed Radio Control today." It started snowing last night, so they planned to hunker down at camp today.

Guide Cody Pitz messaged this evening and reported that the Ski Course has had a couple of excellent days exploring Glacier One for full days of activities. They've covered topics such as snow anchors and ski belay techniques during their outings. They are getting fresh snowfall, receiving approximately 2 feet today! The crew is doing great and is happy to be in the mountains.

Snow happens.

Expedition & Course Availability

  

Climb to the Top of North America with AMS in 2025!  20,310 feet 

2025 Expeditions:

Denali, West Buttress - limited space is available on these dates

$12,400, 22 days
Maximum: 6 climbers, 3 guides

May 29 - June 19
June 9- 30

June 12 - July 3

All other West Buttress Expeditions are currently full; space is available on the waitlists for:

       May 22 - June 12

       May 26 - June 16

      June 5 - 27 ( All Women's Team)

A  custom Denali expedition may be possible. Contact us for more info.

Living the Alaska Range Dream with AMS!

Mountaineering Courses:

12-Day Mountaineering Course - Beginner 

$4,950
April 19 - 30
May 3 - 14
June 7-18 - FULL
July 1-12

6-Day Mountaineering Course - Beginner
$3,750
May 6 -11

June 14 - 19, All Women’s Team

June 21 - 26 

July 5 - 10

Ski Mountaineering Course - Ski/ Board resort ability: confident on Black Diamond terrain
$4,300
April 14 - 20
May 1 - 7, All Women’s Team

Denali Prep Course - Intermediate
$5,300

May 21 - 30  

Alpine Climbing - Intermediate

$5,900

June 20-27 - FULL

Views on the Northern Talkeetna's Traverse!

Backpacking Courses

Talkeetna Mountains - Bomber Traverse - Beginner

$3,200

July 5- 8

Talkeetna Mountains - Northern Traverse - Beginner

$4,600

July 13-20

Report from the Field - Kahiltna Peaks

 Guide, Tad McCrea and the Kahiltna Peaks team made camp at 7,200 feet last evening. Today, they set out to climb Radio Tower. They report a lot of snow, but they have a fortified base camp so we know they will be warm and comfortable.

AMS archived photos from the Radio Tower area

Ski Mountaineering Course Begins!

Our Ski Mountaineering Course, led by Guide Cody Pitz, flew into the Ruth Glacier this afternoon. 

They have six days of learning and turning on their boards! We are stoked for this crew.

Instructor Cody Pitz with Lee and Peter.

Gear check is the first step of any course or climb at AMS

Kahiltna Peaks Expedition begins!

Today the skies cleared for our Kahiltna Peaks Team to fly in!

Our small and mighty first team of the season has flown into the Alaska Range. The team, led by AMS Mountain Guide Tad McCrea with AMS Alumni Russ and climber Yufeng, cranked out an excellent morning with gear check, lunch packing, and final details of weighing gear and filling out paperwork before making their way over to TAT for a 1:00 PM flight to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, aka Kahiltna Base Camp (KBC). 

Their prime objectives are East Kahiltna Peak and Mt Frances. This lucky crew is bound to have lots of fun in the Range. 

Tad, Russ and Yufeng about to load up the Truck and head to the Talkeetna Airport today.