AMS DENALI EXPEDITION UPDATES - From The Mountain

AMS DENALI EXPEDITION UPDATES  - from The Mountain

Our area experienced a 6.1 earthquake last night. The teams all felt a little something on the mountain,  some witnessed serac fall, and avalanches from a safe distance too. All climbers are safe and the route is intact. Our teams are staying on schedule and are doing well.

Denali 5/13 - Gardner

and

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant 

...Have both summited Denali and have a great climb to the top of North America, 20,310 feet. They are making their way back to High Camp now and plan to move to 14,200' tomorrow. Congratulations to them ALL for their very hard work!

Summit of Denali 

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren is doing well a14,200'. Today they climbed down to 13,500' Windy Corner to retrieved their previously cached gear and food. This is a semi-rest day, as often the teams are back in camp before noon. Depending on the weather and how they feel tomorrow, they plan to carry to 16,200'. 

A peaceful night at the 14,200-foot camp, 17,402-foot Mt. Foraker dominates the beautiful skyline.

Denali  5/24 - Divine carried to Windy Corner at 13,500 feet today, the team is doing well and are camped at 11,200' tonight. Tomorrow they plan to either rest at 11,200' them move to 14,200 if the weather allows.

11,200-foot camp

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs - moved to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet last night and were in camp by 1:30 am this morning. This evening they plan to move to camp 2 at 9,500 feet. Rather than making a carry upwards, they will make shorter moves to intermediate campsites. This strategy will keep them on schedule, be easier on Kirstie's leg, and away from the crowds. 

NPS Image of Denali's West Buttress Route - AMS is all over the mountain!

AMS Expedition report from HIGH CAMP

TWO AMS TEAMS GOING FOR IT TODAY

Denali 5/13 - Gardner 

and

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant 

Are making their move toward the summit today, they report excellent weather with sun and no wind! We expect to hear from them later this afternoon/ this evening and will certainly let you know when we do. Wishing them all the best of luck and health on this lovely day!

On the way to Denali Pass,  at approx 17,500' 

AMS DENALI Expedition Updates - movement at all elevations

Denali 5/13 - Gardner- has moved up to High Camp at 17,200'.  The headwall was still blue ice. The snow that fell the other day, all blew off. Lots of teams moved up today! Depending on the weather and how they feel, they will either rest or try for the summit tomorrow.

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - made the move to High Camp at 17,200ft.  It was icy and it was crowded today. They are happy to have made this move up. Depending on the weather and how they feel, they will either rest or try for the summit tomorrow. 

All is well with AMS Teams at High Camp @ 17,200'

High Camp on Denali @ 17,200' 

Previous AMS climber on the headwall with icy conditions. 

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren- has moved to 14,200' (Camp 3).  All is well.  This is a tiring day for everyone, so they are enjoying being at camp and settling in. HAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO JOE! 

The move to 14,200' Camp 3 involve moving through this feature 

Denali  5/24 - Divine- Moved to Camp 2 at 11,200' They had a very good day with nice weather.

11,200' camp with a wonderful view of Mt. Foraker.

Denali  5/28 - Ennis / Coombs - Resting at Basecamp 7,200' for the day and plan to move to 7,800' early tomorrow morning.  They are excited!

Basecamp tents and plane looking small  - looking east toward the base of Mt. Foraker

Denali 5/10 - Patch Team Returns

 Denali 5/10 - Patch is back safe and sound. The climbers and guides are happy to back among the green trees and land of food options and showers.  They had an incredible climb and a common reflection from all is that the mountain has been beautiful and humbling over the past three weeks.

To have one's life and movements dictated by the weather is a difficult reality to grasp until you are experiencing it first hand, and it is part of life in the high mountains.

We are beyond proud to have such excellent climbers and guides this year - this team and all of our teams are full of wonderful people. 

CONGRATULATION ON A SMART AND SAFE EXPEDITION!

Team gear drying on the lines.

Clean up time at the HQ

Denali May 28 Kirstie Ennis Team LAUNCHES!

Denali 5/28 Team Ennis led by Colby Coombs is in the Alaska Range and underway!  After a day and a half of waiting in Talkeetna, they flew in this morning and will enjoy the day at 7,200'. 

Whoo Hoo! We are so honored to be working with Kirstie again on Denali this year! 

The 212th ParaRescue Squadron Team is also climbing Denali on a parallel schedule, and they are all pictured here in the group photo. 

They are going to have a great time up there climbing this mountain, day by day. 

Today they plan to rest at 7,200' Kahiltna Basecamp and get right to climbing on a night schedule early tomorrow morning to move to 7800', during the cool of the night

Colby, Matt, Brock, Kirstie, Bert, Roy, Jared, Eric

The gear shuffle at Talkeetna Air Taxi

Denali Team Updates: 28-May-2021

 

Denali 5/10 - Patch- Patch's team has returned to Kahiltna Basecamp and is poised to fly out as soon as the weather permits it.  We are very excited to see them all back in Talkeetna!

Teams moving around Windy Corner in unsettled conditions

Denali 5/13 - Gardner- Mike's team is also taking a rest/weather day before moving up to 17k.  The day started pretty stormy, and they want to let the snow settle a bit more before heading up to high camp

Some of the excellent views from 14k

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - Is acclimatizing at 14k before making a carry up to 16,200ft.  Spirits are high with this group and they are excited to make their next move.

Hanging at 14k and waiting for the perfect weather window

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren- Larry reported that it was still windy and snowy at 11k.  They are eating lots of good food and digging lots of snow.  11k typically gets more snow than many other camps on the mountain, so I'm sure that Larry's team is busy keeping camp from getting too deep.

11,200 ft camp on a nice day

Denali  5/22 - Divine- Aaron's team made a carry up to 10k this morning.  The lower glacier is one of the only places that it's ok to move on in marginal weather.  Once you make it up to 11k, the mountain is too technical to move up on unless the weather is good. 

 

27-May-2021 Denali team updates: There Will Be Weather

 

Denali 5/10 - Patch- Patch's team is waiting out stormy weather at 14,200ft before their next move.  Weather days are very common and are built into the schedule.   Patch reported that about 2-3ft of snow fell overnight, and it is pretty breezy up there.

Rest days are key for acclimatization!

Denali 5/13 - Gardner- Mike's team is also taking a rest/weather day before moving up to 17k.  Mike reports that everyone is good, and they are just hanging out "in a ping pong ball." 

Sometimes tent time turns out to be pretty fun!

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - Adam's team at 14k are also resting, eating pancakes, and furiously digging themselves out as the wind transported snow accumulates.  Everybody on the mountain is lucky to have a rest day and to have the full mountaineering experience on Denali.

The pancake station in low visibility conditions

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren- Larry also reported windy and snowy conditions at 11k.  He waited until conditions improved a bit and then cruised down to 10,000ft to get his cache.  The back-carry from 10,000ft to 11,200ft is a quick trip and an excellent way to acclimatize.

Carrying in windy conditions is... character building

Denali  5/22 - Divine- Aaron's team also experienced stormy conditions at 7,800ft and decided to rest and acclimatize.  In mountaineering you don't just have to train for fitness; you also have to train for patience! Hopefully, they all have good books, and a healthy desire to dig out tents.   

7,800ft camp with Mt. Frances in the background

All and all it's a weather day on the mountain, but weather days have their advantages.  You can rest, hydrate, stock up on calories and really plan for the next move.  It's always good to pause and really take in your surrounding.  The journey is what it's all about, and that's where all the good stories come from. 

AMS Denali Team updates: 26-May-2021

Denali 5/10 - Patch- Patch's team carried up toward 16,200ft today.  Conditions on the fixed lines are icy, so good crampon technique is a key component.  

Windy conditions on the fixed lines 

Denali 5/13 - Gardner- Mike's team carried to 16,200ft today and put in a cache on the ridge.  The carry up to 16,200ft is a great way to acclimatize and get used to the fixed lines before the big move to 17k.  The conditions were very icy, and Mike chopped in steps all the way up to the ridge.

Looking at the 16 ridge from 17k. The cache site is the lowest point on the ridge.

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - Team Fabs went to 13,500ft today, picked up their cache, and brought it back to 14,200ft.  Getting the cache from 13,500ft is a great active "rest day."  It's a short move, and really helps with acclimatization.  They are running through classes at 14k, in preparation for the fixed lines. It was quesadilla night for Adam and his crew.

Practicing running protection before moving to the upper mountain

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren- Larry's team moved to 11k today.  They woke at 2:00am to get an early start, but waited until 6:00am, and for the sun before they started to move.  It was a windy day on Ski Hill.  They made it to 11k in good time and built camp.  As this team gets higher on the mountain they will be able to switch to a more daytime schedule.  

Google Earth view of Ski Hill

Denali  5/22 - Divine- The team moved to 7,800ft early this morning.  They reported great conditions on the lower glacier, and that the team is strong.  Moving to 7,800ft is one of the tougher days on Denali.  Packs and sled are heavy and the route is long.  Aaron says that everyone on the team is a "rockstar."

Sunrise while moving to 7,800ft on Denali

25-May-2021: Smooth Moves and Teamwork

 Updates from AMS teams on Denali's West Buttress- 25-May-2021

Denali 5/10 - Patch- Acclimatizing at 14k with the other AMS teams on the mountain.  Also assisting with the camp building for Adam's team, which just arrived at 14k.  Teamwork makes the dream work.

Looking toward the upper mountain from 14k

Denali 5/13 - Gardner- The team is acclimatizing at 14k right now.  One of the best ways to acclimatize is to work!  Mike Gardner's team helped Adam's team build wind walls and set up camp when they arrived at 14k. The next goal for this team is to do a cache haul and acclimatization climb up to 16,200ft. 

Very sweet wind walls at 14k

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - Had a smooth move to 14,200 ft yesterday.  They had a quick move, and Adam reports that the team is strong.  When they got to 14k the other AMS teams helped them build their camp, stomping out tent platforms and building wind walls.  The next move for this team is to back-carry to get their cache from 13,500ft.  

Building camp takes teamwork!

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren- Carried a load up to 10k and cached gear there.  Larry reports that the route is in good shape, with ideal conditions for travel.  Their next move will be up to 11k.

The route from 7,800 to the 10k cache site

Denali  5/22 - Divine- Devine's team flew in yesterday at 3:00pm.  The team practiced roping up for glacier travel and fixed-line ascension before their flight to Kahiltna Base Camp.  Flying to 7,200ft is the biggest jump in elevation on the whole trip, as Talkeetna is at only 235ft above sea level!  This team will be resting, hydrating, and learning about crevasse rescue systems.  Their next move will be to 7,800ft.

Fixed-line ascension practice in the field

May 24 Denali team LAUNCHES!

Denali 5/24 - Divine had a great day and a half day here at the AMS HQ. 

On Monday afternoon they packed their expedition lunches, did individual gear checks, and went to our retail shop for last-minute purchases. The store is closed to other shoppers this year, therefore it's very COVID secure.

Today they started the day with warm house-made muffins and a briefing with an NPS Mountaineering Ranger here at AMS. Then they practiced fixed line ascention, discussed the route, had a PowerPoint briefing with Colby Coombs in the yurt. They had a tasty lunch here at AM, and finally they packed up and weighted gear, and headed to the airport.

They made it to the airport in a very relaxed manner ahead of schedule. We are excited to follow this (fully vaccinated!) team's progress.

Front: Brian, Aaron, Cody
Back: Chris, Scott, Michael, Claire, Keith, Joe

Fixed line practice today

Loading the Talkeetna Air Taxi plane for the glacier this afternoon. 

All smiles and waves - see you in three weeks!

Updates from AMS teams on Denali's West Buttress - progress!

Updates from AMS teams on Denali's West Buttress

Denali 5/10 - Patch 

and

Denali 5/13 - Gardner 

Moved to Camp 3 at 14,200' today. It was a beautiful day and with no wind - finally!  Camps are built, tents are up, and dinner has been eaten! They are all very happy to have made this move upwards.

AMS Camp at 14,200'

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - stayed on schedule and carried food, fuel, and extra gear to Windy Corner at 13,500' today. They reported: " Splitter day with no wind at all at Windy Corner. Our group is psyched to move to 14 tomorrow, we are all feeling strong."

The terrain the team climbed through today, looking down at the Peters Glacier

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' last night, they are doing well. The next steps for them are carrying to 10,200' to put a cache of food, fuel, and equipment. This will help them lighten their pack loads when they move to Camp 2 at 11,200' and also to acclimate with the helpful "climb high, sleep low" method.

AMS selecting a campsite by first probing for hidden crevasses at 7800'

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - high winds and high spirits persist

Updates from AMS teams on Denali's West Buttress

                            

                    AMS Building campsites with very nice snow block walls at 10,200' photo: AMS archives

 The AMS expeditions listed below remain at 11,200.  The Camp 2 teams woke this morning to a ground blizzard, and "probably the windiest day yet." They reported: gusts of 40 mph, clear skies in the afternoon, cold temps. Their activities today included: building snow walls, organizing and re-organizing gear/food, and plenty of banter. They are ready to make their respective movements upwards when the winds decrease. Climbers are feeling strong and their spirits remain high, they are well-rested, well-fed, and ready when the time is right.

Denali 5/10 - Patch  - looking forward to moving camp to 14,200'

& 

Denali 5/13 - Gardner - looking forward to moving camp to 14,200'

& 

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant - looking forward to carrying and caching food, fuel, and gear to Windy Corner, at 13,500'  

Denali  5/20 - Holmgren spent the day in basecamp are will move to Camp 1 at 7,800' tonight in the cooler temperatures of the evening.  The night schedule is best for movement on the glacier between the elevations of 7,200' and 11,200'.

At Kahiltna Basecamp with an AMS tent and the dominating South Face of Denali in the background.

In the photo: significant high winds are indicated by snow blowing off of the ridgeline.

Update from AMS Denali Expeditions - on the mountain with a meter of snow

 Updates from AMS teams on Denali's West Buttress

Mid-mountain winds continued and they had a meter of snow, played lawn darts, and more...

Denali 5/10 - Patch 

& 

Denali 5/13 - Gardner 

...... are both at 11,200. They are ready to move to Camp 3 at 14,200' tomorrow, the weather is predicted to clear up for the next several days. Last night they had over a meter of snowfall, so they did some shoveling! after the storm cleared and they shoveled out, they had some fun and games, including improvised lawn darts - stories will be told about that upon their return - I'm sure!

Denali  5/17 - Fabrikant is camped at Camp 2, 11,200' tonight as well. They had an excellent day and retrived their cache at 10,200'. They are now ready to carry higher to Windy Corner 13,500' tomorrow if the weather clears and the winds calm down as is expected. 

AMS Team setting up camp at 11,200, the snow walls in the photo are lovely!

Shoveling out at 11,200' on a previous AMS expedition.

 Sometimes it really accumulates quickly and we have to take shifts shoveling so someone is constantly moving the snow; it is to be expected and is all part of mountain life.

AMS Denali May 20 Expedition LAUNCHES!

After 2 days of waiting in Talkeetna, the team has flown in and has safely landed on the Kahiltna Glacier at the climber's base camp! 

Over the past two days, they have been keeping busy reviewing the skills and systems they would be covering in the mountains, and today they visited the Talkeetna Historical Society Museum, which has a fantastic climbers exhibit, with a swiss-made to-scale diorama of Denali massif. 

Even though this team has flown in the evening, they won't have lost much time; remember that Alaska really is the land of the midnight sun. Sunset today is officially at 11:11pm, and sunrise is at 4:42 AM, and it's just dusk and dawn in between, so it won't get dark-dark tonight.

This team is fully vaccinated for COVID-19 and additionally pre-arrival tested. 

They are already having a great time together and making the most of it all.

Whoohoo -  Good Luck Team!

The team at Talkeetna Air Taxi in their mountain gear (finally!) for their evening flight!

Team jump shot at AMS HQ: Kathryn, Emily, Stowe, Joe, Alex, Curtis, Larry

Curtis and Emily in the plane while taxiing out! This photo represents all of their emotions :-)