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| Denali High Camp (photo from AMS archives) |
June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire &
June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht
Our last two Denali teams are both at High Camp at 17,200ft! They are enjoying great views and a clear, sunny day while they rest, recover and anticipate their upcoming summit push.
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Russell, Instructor Nadine, Parker, John, Talal, and Instructor Ben This lucky group launched on one of the rare sunny and clear days of this season! This is a motivated, friendly, chatty group, and we anticipate that they will have a fun time learning together in the Alaska Range.
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| Photo by Nate Emerson 5/29/23 Denali expedition. |
June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht
After a lot of patience, waiting for a weather window, these two teams are finally on the move! Lead guides Simon and Brady report waking up to a nice morning. They are packing for a move to 17,000 ft today!
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| The views from the 14K camp are fabulous. This is looking west to Mount Foraker. (photo from Nate Emerson 5/29 Denali expedition last month.) |
June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire &
June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht
After yesterday's big gear carry up the fixed lines, today is a rest day. The next time they move up, they will pick up their cached gear at 16,200K and continue up to 17K High Camp. This will be a very hard day. They no longer have sleds; all the weight has to be on their backs. Taking it slow and steady, they will get to 17K and then be positioned for a summit attempt if the weather allows. In the meantime, it will be good food and rest.
They are having a great time exploring the lower West Buttress route of Denali. The weather has been a mix of stormy and pleasant. We're sure lots of stories are being shared with this group that has a lot of experience in the mountains.
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| Base Camp at 7K with Mount Frances. (photo by Rob Gowler, AMS archives) |
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| Nearing the top of The fixed lines on Denali's West Buttress, approx. 16,000 feet |
June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire
and
June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht
Carried up the fixed lines today! The June 12th team carried to 16,200 feet and The June 15th Team carried to 16,400 feet. After climbing to the top of fixed lines, they dug deep holes to place the food, fuel, and gear that they will retrieve for future use when they move to high camp. This day also serves as an important acclimatization day as well, to give our climbers exposure to higher altitudes prior to moving up to high camp at 17,200 feet.
The weather was mostly cloudy all day, with winds on and off, but with fairly mild temperatures, so that made for a pleasant day. They are back at the 14,200-foot Camp now and are settled back into their camps. They are now poised and ready to move to high camp when the conditions allow.
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| The details make all of the difference! There's a faster way to clip through the running pro, and that's just one hot tip you'll pick up on an AMS expedition. |
Yesterday, June 25 - was a rest day at the 14,200-foot Camp. High winds dominated the upper mountain, which worked out well for our teams to have a rest day and review skills. They learn new tips for making the climb up the fixed lines efficient. They also had time for a delicious pancake brunch!
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| Lenticular clouds seen from the 14,200 camp. (AMS archive photo) |
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| Guide Colby, Keith, Heidi and AMS intern Matt |
A break in the rain saw two teams fly out to the Alaska Range! A custom mountaineering course with Colby Coombs and our intern Matt, and our Advanced Alpine 10-Day Mountaineering course with Nadav Oakes. Everyone was very excited to go! We are so happy to have Miarco on another course this year. He attended our 12 Day course last season.
June 5 Team Summit XP, led by Larry Holmgren, had a successful descent to Kahiltna Basecamp last night. They are currently awaiting their flight out from the mountains later this afternoon. They reached 16,300 feet and sure did put in serious time in the stormy weather up there!
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| Kahiltna Basecamp climbers camping and getting picked up by the Air Taxi! |
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| 14,200-foot camp and Mt. Foraker - from higher on the route/ base of the fixed lines |
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| Snow walls protect tents from wind and driving snow. |
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| AMS archive photo |
The June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire, and The June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht are both hunkered down at 11,000ft. They are resting and waiting for better conditions, to make a move up the mountain.
June 5 Team Summit XP led by Larry Holmgren is still at 14,200ft. They plan to retrieve their cache and make their way back to basecamp, as the weather allows.
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Post-watermelon photo shoot in front of AMS! |
Taking advantage of a rare weather window this season, the team chose to return to headquarters one day early. Arriving at AMS, the team shared smiles, watermelon, and some precious final moments before starting the journey home!
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| Unpacking and sorting gear is the final (bittersweet) chore for the team! |
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The June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire made good progress and carried to Windy Corner today at approximately 13,200 ft and cached. Winds picked up and it started snowing as they headed back to 11,000 foot camp. Brady says, they are a "Strong Crew". They will camp at 11,000 ft before making a plan to move to 14,200 ft camp.
The June 15th Team led by Simon Frez-Albercht moved to 11,000 ft camp today! Their next goal will be to carry to Windy Corner at 13,400 ft.
12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Greg Runyan in Little Switzerland (aka Pika Glacier) packed up and came home today after a successful trip in the range.
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| Guides Simon and Tyler, Jeremy, Erich, Johanna, Gernot, guide Hannah, Julie and Lucie |
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| A previous class- climbing on the Pika! (Photo by: Josh Hoeschen) |
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| Kahiltna Glacier View |
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| Camp at 7,800 ft |
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| Pika Glacier/Little Switzerland |
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| Having fun with rope work. |
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| Kicking up their heels as the team is finally called to the airport! The June 12th Team led by Brady McGuire put some more town time to good use today. They were all having fun going over mechanical advantage with rope systems and patiently waiting for their call from the airport. When the call came, they mobilized efficiently and were off! Their expedition has officially begun! June 5 Team Roper led by Colby Coombs descended to Basecamp yesterday and flew back to Talkeetna late this afternoon. They’ve endured a lot of stormy weather up there at 11,000 feet, and we are so happy they are back safe and sound! May 29 Team led by Nate Emerson moved to high camp at 17,200 feet yesterday. Today: Alex, Corentine, and Wade, with Guides Nate Emerson and Tyler Thompson, made a summit attempt and reached approx 19,000 feet before being turned back due to extremely high winds. They are safely back at high camp now and will sleep so well tonight after that incredible effort. Well done all! June 5 Team Summit XP led by Larry Holmgren are settled into camp at 11,000 feet; they are there again tonight and are looking forward to the days ahead. 12- Day Mountaineering Course led by Greg Runyan in Little Switzerland (aka Pika Glacier) is doing well today. The weather cleared temporarily, and they climbed to a pass with incredible views and then descended back to camp in a whiteout. A good day was had in the mountains by all. |
June 13 Update
Busy day at AMS Headquarters as guides Brady McGuire, Naomi Boyles-Muehleck, and Michelle Leonard review gear and assist in packing lunch food. The six climbers have had their National Park Service briefing by Denali Mountaineering Rangers. Next, they will practice fixed line ascension. Then do final packing and gear up for their flight onto the Kahiltna Glacier, weather permitting.
Guide Brady McGuire explaining harness setup. Climbers simulate falling into a crevasse and ascending out.
It is much easier to review these skills in Talkeetna so that when you arrive on the glacier, you are ready to go.
And in the Range...
Stormy weather continues for the teams on Denali and throughout the Alaska Range.
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| During stormy weather, camp chores include keeping snow off the tent and out of the walled area. |
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| Nice and tidy walls make for a good night's sleep. |
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| A mountain climber's life is sometimes inside a ping-pong ball... |
June 5, Denali: Team Roper, led by Colby Coombs and assisted by David Kerner, is staying put at 11,000 feet today in stormy weather.
June 5, Denali: Team Summit XP, led by Larry Holmgren and assisted by Chad Ray, is also staying put at 11,000 feet today in the storm.
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| Digging out the tents during snowstorms is part of the daily routine. |
June 9, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Greg Runyan and assisted by Ayla Loper is all settled in on the Pika Glacier. They are learning about glacier travel, camp living, and haul systems today in camp, as they, too, awoke to precipitation - they had wet snow falling on them this morning.
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| When the clouds lift a little, they will be treated to views like this! |
You can check Denali Weather forecasts here:
and Denali Climbing Weather Forecasts here:
NWS Fairbanks DSS: Denali Climbing Forecastweather.gov
Follow along with the Denali National Park Service Mountaineering Rangers through their Denali Dispatches. This tells you what the Rangers are up to, as well as current conditions:
June 9, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Greg Runyan and Ayla Loper woke up early to head to the Talkeetna airport. The weather they needed to fly into the Pika had arrived. With a good night's sleep under their belts, they were full of energy and eager to help load the plane. They spent the day setting up their camp and dove right into their mountaineering coursework.
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| Michael, Nikki, Margarida, Chloe, with Instructors Greg and Ayla |
May 29th, Denali, West Buttress Team, led by Nate Emerson, Tyler Thompson, and Ayla Crosby, moved to the 14,200-foot camp yesterday late afternoon/ evening; they had a windy move day and were happy to arrive and set up camp last night. Today, they descended to retrieve their previously cached food, fuel, and gear at approx 13,500 feet; this acts as a "working rest day" and helps with acclimatization. They did well and are looking forward to the next few days as they plan their moves higher on the mountain.
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| Archive photo: AMS and other climbers camp at 14,200 feet on Denali's West Buttress |
June 5, Denali: Team Roper, led by Colby Coombs and David Kerner, are resting at the 11,000-camp today; they moved up yesterday. They are experiencing mild temperatures and winds ranging up to 25 miles per hour. There is continuous light snowfall with spotty visibility.
June 5, Denali: Team Summit XP, led by Larry Holmgren and Chad Ray, moved to 11,000 feet today. They are doing well and are happy to be in this new camp and moving higher on the mountain to acclimate. They will switch to crampons from here on up as the terrain becomes steeper and more exposed.
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| Archive photo: AMS Climber Camping at 11,000 feet on Denali's West Buttress |
You can check Denali Weather forecasts here:
and Denali Climbing Weather Forecasts here:
NWS Fairbanks DSS: Denali Climbing Forecastweather.gov
Follow along with the Denali National Park Service Mountaineering Rangers through their Denali Dispatches. This tells you what the Rangers are up to, as well as current conditions:
The June 9 12-Day MTC led by Greg Runyan and assisted by Ayla Loper has spent the day packing gear and lunches, practicing fixed line ascensions, and prepping for their flight to Little Switzerland (aka Pika Glacier). The weather in Talkeetna was nice, but the conditions were not the best for flying into the Pika today. The team will have an evening in Talkeetna and assemble bright and early for a morning flight.
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| Going over the fixed lines at AMS headquarters |
May 29, Denali Team lead by Nate Emerson, Tyler Thompson, and Ayla Crosby:
The team climbed from 11,000 feet past Windy Corner and made camp at 14,200 feet. They will certainly enjoy their time resting up.
June 5, Denali Team Roper, led by Colby Coombs and David Kerner, is moving toward 11,000 feet camp today.
June 5, Denali: Summit XP, led by Larry Holmgren and Chad Ray has been camped at their first camp due to weather. They broke a trail through new snow on their carry to 9,500 feet yesterday. Their next move will be to 11,000 feet, as weather allows.
You can check Denali Weather forecasts here:
and Denali Climbing Forecasts here:
NWS Fairbanks DSS: Denali Climbing Forecastweather.gov
Follow along with the Denali National Park Service Mountaineering Rangers through their Denali Dispatches. This tells you what the Rangers are up to, as well as current conditions:
https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm
Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams:
May 29, Denali Expedition led by Nate Emerson, Tyler Thompson, and Ayla Crosby, reports that there was a good amount of snow at 11,000 ft. They are hunkering down for another day of rest to wait out the weather.
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| Sometimes it's best to wait a bit longer in camp |
June 5, Denali Expedition: Team Roper, led by Colby Coombs and David Kerner, reports that it was a bit stormy. They made it to their alternate camp and decided to stay put and rest at 8,000 feet.
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| The current spot of Team Cooombs (photo from a previous expedition) |
June 5, Denali Expedition Summit XP, led by Larry Holmgren and Tyler Thompson, carried through the snow to 9,500 feet to cache items of gear, food, and fuel and has returned to rest and acclimatize at Camp One.
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| View from camp at 7,800 feet |
You can check Denali Climbing Weather forecasts here: https://www.weather.gov/afg/denaliclimbing_forecast
You can also check the Denali National Park Service Mountaineering Rangers Denali Dispatches. This tells you what the Rangers are up to as well as current conditions: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm
Recent Reports from AMS Denali Expedition Teams:
May 29, Denali: Emerson:
The team carried above Windy Corner yesterday. It was hot then breezy at Windy Corner, with firm climbing conditions. They are resting today at 11,000 feet, hoping to make their move to 14,200 feet tomorrow.
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| Windy Corner |
June 5, Denali: Roper (led by Colby Coombs):
Colby has reported that they have moved to the base of Ski Hill (at 7,800 feet) and are planning to head to an alternate camp at 9,000 feet tonight.
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| The view at 7,800ft |
June 5, Denali: Summit XP (led by Larry Holmgren):
Larry reports from 7,800 feet: the team is doing well, and depending on the weather, the plan is to carry to 10,500 feet tomorrow.
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| A previous AMS team, caching at 10,200 feet |
You can check Denali Climbing Weather forecasts here: https://www.weather.gov/afg/denaliclimbing_forecast
You can also check the Denali National Park Service Mountaineering Rangers Denali Dispatches. This tells you what the Rangers are up to as well as current conditions: https://www.nps.gov/dena/blogs/mountainblog.htm
And they're off....
Two teams flew into the Range today to start their Denali expeditions, DWB- Coombs/Roper and DWB-Summit XP- Holmgren. The weather has improved slightly since this past weekend.
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| Guide Dave Kerner teaching fixed line ascension |
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| Guide Colby Coombs, Tom Roper and Guide Dave Kerner flew to Kahiltna Base Camp this morning. |
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| Team Summit XP with Guides Larry Holmgren and Chad Ray. |
2027 Denali / McKinley, West Buttress Expeditions including an All Women's Team that is only offered on alternate years! Denali / McKi...
