Two Teams Return!

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic have returned to Talkeetna after a successful summit above the clouds on June 28. They were welcomed by warmth, sunshine and watermelon.

Summit certificates and a beautiful watercolor print of the mountain for this hardworking crew.

Yes! Hot water without having to melt snow first.

Boots Off!

 

Watermelon. Peace Out.

Potato chips are more important than taking off gear.

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris has returned. They climbed a lot and learned a lot, and we look forward to posting their images. They will spend the next couple of hours unpacking gear and doing the less glamorous part of mountaineering... drying gear, washing dishes. After that, I'm sure this crew will be found on Main Street eating a lot of food!!

Alaska Range update: AMS Teams - June 30

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic,  is climbing down to Kahiltna Base Camp tonight. Many find that it is a very special move of the expedition; the light overnight is especially beautiful in the mountains, and it's summer in Alaska- it never gets dark!

The descent from 14,200 camp is always done overnight to take advantage of cooler temperatures. A mountain version of an all-nighter! 

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt, is staying at 14,200 tonight. They will revisit their next steps in the morning. Today they packed up camp and climbed to the base of the fixed lines, reaching approximately 15,200 feet, but the move was not in the cards today. 14,200 Camp is a great place to live and rest; the views are beyond spectacular. We wish this wonderful team and all climbers up there the best of luck! 

View from 14,200' Camp, roped climbers leaving camp. Mt. Foraker

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris had a wonderful day climbing Munchkin Peak AND climbing Pirate Ship Pass! We expect to see them back in Talkeetna tomorrow. 

This image is from TODAY! Claire sent it from the route, and there happens to be cell tower service from there - what a treat!

Kaden climbing on the Munchkin!

Update from AMS in the the Alaska Range - June 29

A beautiful day for a summit!

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, summited Denali yesterday!  Thanks to the lovely conditions up high, the team summited and made it safely and soundly back to high camp yesterday evening. They traveled to 14,200 camp today and will be resting there tonight and through the day tomorrow.  They plan to take advantage of cooler night temperatures and faster conditions tomorrow night to make their way to base camp. 

Teams on the fixed lines above 14,200 camp.

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. The team decided to take another day to rest and practice some skills at 14,200 camp while waiting for better weather to carry above the fixed lines.

AMS student cooking in the kitchen tent.

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris  This group is busy learning new skills and putting them into practice on the glacier.  Students are all getting their turn at kitchen duty, and learning the fine arts of camp cooking!

Update from AMS in the the Alaska Range - June 28

An AMS team heading for the summit.

The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, awoke to calm, clear skies early this morning and is making a summit attempt today! We have been in touch with teams in the Range and the folks at Talkeetna Air Taxi, and they let us know it has been a clear day at the higher altitudes today. Stay tuned for updates here, and on our Facebook and Instagram pages: @alaskamountaineeringschool

Looking down at 14,200 camp

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. Had another good day at 14,200 camp. They climbed to 15,100 feet and were exposed to that higher altitude, and the terrain to the base of the fixed lines. 

Taking a break from camp building on the Pika Glacier

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris Had a sunny day on the Pika Glacier and moved their camp up the glacier to above the glacier landing area. More climbing and adventures are in store for this intrepid team.

AMS Alaska Range Update- June 27

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, is doing well on their rest day at high camp, 17,200 feet. They are hydrating and eating as much as they can to prepare for their summit day attempt. The weather will dictate when they can give it a shot. Because of the high altitude, it is normal to move very slowly on summit day, and it can be difficult to stay warm in adverse weather, so the weather has to be pretty good to make a summit attempt. They have the time to wait, if they want. As one can imagine, high winds on the upper mountain are a common hazard, so the team will work together to build snow-block walls to protect their camp.

Wall building "party" at High Camp, 17,200' 

The June 16th Custom Peaks for Pia Denali Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. Had a good day at 14,200 camp. It was a very snowy day today, and even so, they descended to 13,500 to retrieve their previously cached items and returned to camp at 14,200 in good form. They are working hard up there and really are enjoying the gorgeous views for this new camp.  Next steps for them are to carry and cache up the fixed lines to 16,200' or higher. As always, climbing is weather-dependent. 

Snowy/ cloudy day at approx. 13,500, Windy Corner

14,200' Camp, Mt. Foraker, prominently in the background

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris: Had a fun day ice climbing and rappelling in the rain in Little Switzerland (aka the Pika Glacier). This team of highly motivated folks is making the most of their time in the Alaska Range. We are so excited for them all!

Ice Climbing on Glacier ice!

AMS Teams - Alaska Range Update- June 26

 The June 16th Custom Denali Expedition, led by Ben Olwell and Will Plovanic, moved to High Camp today. This requires: packing up camp at 14,200', climbing up the fixed lines to 16,200', and along the exposed ridge line to 17,200' to set up high camp on a broad plateau. They planned a rest day tomorrow and, if the weather allows and they are feeling strong, they will attempt the summit on Sunday, June 28th.

This picture was taken on June 9 from an earlier expedition and shows the 16K ridge with a climber en route to high camp.

The June 16th Peaks for Pia Expedition, led by Nickel Wood and Luke Piatt. TODAY: The team moved to 14,200 camp! YESTERDAY: the team carried to 13,500' to put in a cache. This day doubles to lighten the pack for move day and to expose everyone's bodies to a higher altitude for acclimation. 

This aerial photo shows the route above 11,000 feet toward Windy Corner.

This image is from last week at the 14,000 feet camp.

The June 19th Alpine Climbing Course, led by Tali Levin with climbers Wes and Chloe, has returned to Talkeetna. They are very happy after staying really busy in there! Yesterday they climbed the Dragon's Spine! Photos to come!

The June 20th, 12-Day Mountaineering Course led by Claire Bicknell, Evan Clupper, and Intern Morgan Harris: Yesterday, they rock climbed on The Hobbit's Footstool, and TODAY they climbed a mixed snow/ Rock route on the Peak nicknamed The Plunger.

Student on the Plunger route (AMS archive photo)

The June 22nd, 6-Day Mountaineering Course led by Tyler Thompson and Isabel Masi is doing very well! Today they climbed a peak nicknamed Hersey's Kiss and, on the Air Taxi's advice, have returned to Talkeetna to avoid 4 days of un-flyable weather. The team will gather for the final day of instruction at the AMS HQ tomorrow, and several of the team will camp out in our student campaign area for the night. 

Taken today! Students climbing on a peak nicknamed Hershey's Kiss. (Photo by Guide Tyler Thompson)

John and some of the tools of the trade.

Instructor Isabel Masi rocking flipflops after a week in boots

Watermelon awaits all returning climbers.

Alpine Rock Climbing Returns!

 The Alpine Rock climbers with Instructor Tali Levin returned after an adventurous and rewarding climbing and learning experience on the Pika Glacier. We are looking forward to Chloe's photographs from the course. She had a large and heavy camera with her, and never complained.

Chloe and gear.

Tali hangs tents to dry.

Rope flaking and drying.

Wes back in flip-flops.